National Geographic Traveller UK - 09.2026.pdf

年度国家地理旅行杂志 # 英国旅行者版 • 2026年9月 • 66:25 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

小众岛屿逃离计划 西西里岛，特雷米蒂群岛，卡普赖亚岛及更多 #

本期精彩内容 品味亚速尔群岛独特的饮食文化 探索摩洛哥北海岸 萨默塞特郡之旅：农场生活与苹果酒 沿着丝绸之路穿越乌兹别克斯坦

此外还包括：波士顿 • 布达佩斯 • 佛兰德斯 • 汉堡 • 基加利 • 莱姆里吉斯 • 里昂 • 曼彻斯特 • 秘鲁 • 乌鲁鲁

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意大利度假专家 专家带你游意大利

旅程改变我们。

有些旅程留在照片里。 而另一些则悄然成为我们生命的一部分。 20多年来，我们打造了遍布意大利及其非凡岛屿的旅程，这些旅程为旅行者留下的东西远比纪念品更为珍贵。

视角。连接。 他们将永远讲述的故事。 你的意大利。完美打造。

开启你的旅程

从我们的意大利之家到您的家 / +39 375 823 5314 team@italyvacationspecialists.com

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探索 荷兰

密歇根州 美国

holland.org •

乌兹别克斯坦 72

图片来源：AISHA NAZAR, ALAMY, ROYAL MANSOUR COLLECTION, 盖蒂

第 145, 期，2026年9月

目录

精选 (The Edit)

14 • 立即行动 在美式牛仔牧场骑上马鞍 16 • 旅行新闻 我们关注的最新开业场所、新体验和新书发布 23 • 时令推荐 欧洲冲浪假期，享受夏日最后的温暖 24 • 内部指南 穿越佛兰德斯，品味比利时的酿酒遗产 27 • 饮食谈话 当地主厨推荐的里昂最佳美食 28 • 英国短途游 在莱姆里吉斯寻找化石与体验独立酿酒 31 • 住宿与活动 西班牙比斯开海岸一座被葡萄藤环绕的宫殿 32 • 竞赛 赢取在 The Tawny 度过一个充满自然的周末 35 • 当地生活 布达佩斯当地人的生活方式 36 • 微趋势 中国24小时水疗中心的复兴 38 • 特别关注 汉堡的 Miniatur Wunderland 40 • 焦点 旅行摄影世界的最新动态

特写 (Features)

48 • 意大利 结识将国家岛屿视为家园的人们，从奶酪农户到视觉艺术家和海洋探险家 72 • 乌兹别克斯坦 追随商人、朝圣者和游牧民族的足迹，在旅途中挖掘丝绸之路的遗产 84 • 亚速尔群岛 在这些遥远的大西洋岛屿上，自力更生地创造了独特且创新的饮食文化 96 • 基加利 繁荣的艺术、美食和时尚场景让卢旺达这座被忽视的首都成为焦点 106 • 滴滴喀喀湖 在这个秘鲁的高海拔湖泊中，体验与编织社区的同住生活 114 • 音乐之旅 我们为黑胶挖掘者、歌剧爱好者和提琴发烧友汇总了八项最佳体验 120 • 乌鲁鲁 在原住民引导的徒步旅行中穿越内陆，终点是澳大利亚神圣的砂岩单体岩

指南 (The Guide)

126 • 长周末：特图安与塔穆达湾 在摩洛哥北部的这个安静角落，崎岖的山峰与地中海的海水相遇 130 • 菜单推荐：萨默塞特苹果酒 寻找捍卫该郡最受欢迎饮品的农民和酿酒师 134 • 住宿推荐：曼彻斯特 这座北方工业强城的工业遗产在蓬勃发展的酒店业中延续 140 • 双城记：波士顿 通过这座城市的革命英雄和体育传奇来了解它

资深旅行者 (Expert Traveller)

145 • 值得关注：精神冒险的兴起 146 • 实用指南：克服飞行恐惧症是否可能？ 150 • 装备清单：观鸟必备 151 • 旅行之外：nationalgeographic.com 精彩内容 152 • 故事背后：中国月饼 153 • 技巧指南：精通手机摄影 172 • 绝佳小众地：读者分享他们的伦敦私藏去处 174 • 读者评选：为你最喜爱的目的地投票，有机会赢取丰厚奖品 177 • 订阅服务：仅需 £15 178 即可获得五期杂志 178 • 我的旅行：演员兼电视主持人 Terry Crews

封面

黄昏笼罩着意大利普罗奇达岛（Procida）的港口 图片：AWL Images SEPTEMBER 2026 7

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米兰，圣维托雷路 21 (VIA SAN VITTORE 21)

莱昂纳多·达·芬奇

全球规模最大的展览 国立科学技术博物馆——莱昂纳多·达·芬奇 探索更多

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September 2026

撰稿人

与让本期杂志成为现实的作者和摄影师一起，窥见我们的幕后故事

ANNAPURNA MELLOR

“在阿曼塔尼岛（Amantani）记录滴滴喀喀湖生活的期间，我的寄宿家庭主人 Pilar 穿着极其精美的手工衣服。作为故事的一部分，我拍摄了她烹饪和织布的样子。在最后一天，她坚持要我们交换角色。她让我穿上她的传统服装，然后抢过相机，全程咯咯地笑着。” 秘鲁 P.106

OLIVER SMITH

“行走在澳大利亚中部的沙漠中，意味着要在日出前的寒冷中出发——使用头灯并穿着多层衣物——然后迅速脱掉它们，在炎热的内陆阳光下继续前行。这一时刻捕捉到了两者之间短暂的间隙：当时温度恰到好处，黎明的光线宛如异世界。” 乌鲁鲁 P.120

KATA FÁRI

“布达佩斯美得毫不费力。宏伟的建筑、河流景观和温泉浴池已经说明了一切。但这座城市真正的个性隐藏在细节之中。仔细观察，你会发现一些隐藏的古怪之处，包括在瓦伊达胡尼亚德城堡（Vajdahunyad Castle）后面阅读的一尊演员 Béla Lugosi（电影史上最标志性的德古拉）的微型雕像。” 布达佩斯 P.35

Sam Kemp

“在乌兹别克斯坦，音乐像果园里挂满的果实一样丰富多样。当我在绿洲城镇布哈拉（Bukhara）探索时，我与音乐家兼乐器制造者 Jalol Avliakulov 坐在一起，学习用手工制作的 rubob（一种由单块桑木雕刻而成的长颈鲁特琴）演奏安集延波尔卡（Andijan polka）。我仍在等待他打电话建议我们重新组建乐队的那一天。” 乌兹别克斯坦 p.72

Amelia Duggan

“我离开座位来到露天甲板，水中的一阵波动给了我回报：三只海豚正与岛际渡轮并肩前行。在那里，周围数百英里除了大西洋几乎空无一物，可以清楚地看到孤立如何塑造了亚速尔群岛的生活；以及人们如何克服重重困难进行捕鱼或耕种。” 亚速尔群岛 p.84

Farida Zeynalova

“抵达托斯卡纳的卡普赖亚岛（Capraia）几分钟后，我就在品尝当地最优质的本土产品：葡萄酒、蜂蜜和山羊奶酪。在我的东道主——导游 Federico Ferrarini 和他的妻子、养蜂人 Roberta Bonomo 的阳光斑驳的花园里，我们规划了我的行程。议程之首？是会见那些为这座仅有约 150 名常住居民的岛屿注入新生命的手工艺生产者。” 意大利 p.48

2026 9 图片：ANNAPURNA MELLOR, KATA FÁRI, PETER TAKASSUK, ASHA NAZAR, FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI, KERRY MURRAY 国家地理 (NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC)

旅行者 (TRAVELLER)

首席运营官兼编辑总监：Maria Pieri 执行编辑：Glen Mutel 出版人：Matt Midworth 我们最难忘的音乐体验 古巴哈瓦那的伦巴舞

编辑部

副主编：Amanda Canning 执行主编：Lorna Parkes 特写（产假）：Georgia Stephens 代理特写编辑：Angela Locatelli 助理：Sam Kemp 资深编辑：Sarah Barrell 副编辑：Farida Zeynalova 特约编辑：Pat Riddell 进阶实习生：Rutalee Büch

市场与运营

市场总监：Sophy Moyes 资深数字营销经理：Tilly Tasker 付费媒体执行：Jessica Geneen 内容营销制作人：Sam Ford 运营经理：Seamus McDermott

制作

制作经理：Daniel Gregory 制作团队：Vinny Bains, Joe Mendonca, Natasha Ullman

摩洛哥阿加迪尔的音乐 北京的朋克摇滚

创意

艺术总监：Becky Redman 副艺术总监：Lauren Atkinson-Smith 资深艺术编辑：Lauren Gamp 艺术编辑：Kelly Markwell, Dean Reynolds 首席数字设计师：Tully D'Souza 资深图片编辑：Ben Rowe 副图片编辑：Asha Nazar

销售

销售总监：Danny Pegg 活动负责人：William Allen 活动团队：Jamie Barnish, Phil Castle, George Clarke, Bob Jalaf, Mark Salmon, Daniel Watt, Jack Sharry, Oscar Williams, Ryn Cole 项目经理，NGT (UK)：Kevin Killen 项目经理，NGT (UK) Collections：Lorna Goodings

日本角林坊寺的诵经僧侣

数字

资深内容策略师：Berkok Yüksel 数字编辑：Karlina Valeiko 数字助理：Lena Müller 助理创作者：Billy Thomas

品牌内容

品牌内容负责人：Flora Neighbour 品牌内容副负责人：Sara Crossley, Jessica Prupas 资深项目经理：Emma Al-Mousawi 项目编辑：Zoe Bell, Emma Monk, Anamika Talwaria 助理项目经理：Hannah Wild 首席，NGT (UK) Collections：Charlotte Wigram-Evans ，NGT (UK) Collections：Sacha Scoging

副编辑

首席副编辑：Olivia McLearon 资深副编辑：Hannah Doherty, Victoria Smith 副编辑：Lucy Coward, Rory Goulding, Chris Horton, Ben Murray 董事长兼联合创始人：Anthony Leyens 首席执行官：Matthew Jackson 首席营收官：Alex Vignali AP业务发展团队：Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence 办公室经理：Hayley Rabin 首席财务官（临时）：Natalie Fris 信用经理：Craig Chappell 财务经理：Ramona McShaw 资深AP专员：Nagina Bibi AP专员：Sajal Zafar

屡获殊荣的《国家地理旅行者》（英国版）

Inspire Global Media Awards 2026：年度消费者杂志特写（英国及爱尔兰、亚洲） • ATW Media Awards 2026：目的地特写 • The Clio 2026年度青年记者：旅行记者 • PPA 独立出版商 2025：年度封面 • BGTW 2025：年度旅行特写 – 欧洲 • BGTW 2025：年度旅程特写 • BGTW 2025：年度图片特写 • AITO 2025年度作者 • BSME Talent 2025：最佳时事通讯 • Newspaper & Magazine 2025：年度报刊亭杂志 • TravMedia 2025：年度杂志 • Inspire Global Media 2025：年度消费者杂志特写（非洲及印度洋） • BGTW 2024：年度可持续发展特写奖 • TravMedia 2024：年度杂志 • TravMedia 2024：年度特写 • Inspire Global Media 2023：年度消费者杂志特写（印刷版） • BSME Talent 2023：最佳艺术团队 • TravMedia 2023：年度杂志 • AITO 2022年度作者 • BSME 2022：年度 • Media 2020：年度消费者作者 • British 2019：最佳消费者度假杂志 • BGTW 2019：最佳作者

欢迎

我在意大利北部的阿尔卑斯山脚下长大，青少年时期随家人旅行时第一次访问该国的岛屿。我们从大陆乘坐轮渡前往那不勒斯湾的一个小岛——普罗奇达岛（Procida），开始游览那里的渔村和电影拍摄地。我们的导游迟到了 30 分钟，穿着人字拖在港口缓慢地走来。他没有道歉或找借口，而是指了指周围，简单地说：“你有大海，你有阳光。你还想要什么呢？”

我分享这个轶事有三个原因。首先，这么多年过去了，那位乐天派导游是我记忆最深刻的人。其次，他是对的——意大利岛屿的自然美景，那里海水蔚蓝，直到 9 月份依然白昼漫长且温暖，这本身就是访问这里的充分理由。第三，如果你确实想要更多，你会发现这里的目的地既多样又令人惊喜。我们的封面故事捕捉到了这种深度的体验。我们遇到了托斯卡纳岛卡普赖亚岛（Capraia）的年轻生产者；普利亚大区特雷米蒂群岛（Tremiti Archipelago）的一位潜水教练；以及在西西里岛（Sicily）参加意大利首届当代艺术之都计划展出的艺术家。这些当地人坚韧且富有创造力，选择在意大利一些最偏远、最出人意料的地方建立生活。只是不要指望他们总是能准时出现。

如果你像我一样，有过一段终生难忘的旅程，请不要忘记在我们的读者奖项中投票——请翻至第 174 页了解更多信息。

Angela Angela Locatelli，代理特写编辑 搜索 natgeotraveluk

不要错过

在英国读者奖项中投票

2026 年《国家地理旅行者》（英国版）读者奖项现已启动，旨在表彰您最喜爱的地点。参与投票，您将有机会参加抽奖，赢取绝佳的旅行奖品，包括一次为期两周的哥斯达黎加（Costa Rica）之旅。 第 174 页

赢取 The Tawny 的周末之旅

一名幸运读者及其一名嘉宾将在位于北斯塔福德郡、处于斯塔福德郡穆尔兰兹（Staffordshire Moorlands）和峰区国家公园（Peak District National Park）边缘的这座 70 英亩再野化庄园中度过两个夜晚，并有机会探索湖泊、林间小道和装饰建筑。 第 32 页

即刻订阅

仅需 £15 即可获得五期杂志！

访问 subscriptions.natgeotravelier.co.uk 或致电 01858 438787 并报代码“DSEPT26”

12 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片来源：GETTY, JAKE EASTHAM

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Nomad eSIM

(不要) 在新城市迷路

在 200 多个目的地保持无缝连接，让您可以发现更多，分享更多，担忧更少。

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精选 (The Edit)

14 © NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

14 即刻行动 (DO IT NOW) 16 旅行新闻 (TRAVEL NEWS) 23 时令推荐 (IN SEASON) 24 内部指南 (INSIDE GUIDE) 27 话题讨论 (TABLE TALK) 28 英国短途游 (UK BREAK) 31 住宿与活动 (STAY & DO) 32 竞赛 (COMPETITION) 35 当地指南 (WHEN IN) 36 微趋势 (MICRO TREND) 38 特色兴趣 (SPECIAL INTEREST) 40 焦点 (IN FOCUS)

即刻行动 (DO IT NOW)

牧场度假 (Dude ranches)

在过去的一个世纪里，美国西部的这些农场一直向旅行者敞开大门，让他们体验马背上的生活。1880年代，匹兹堡的霍华德·伊顿（Howard Eaton）离开家乡，前往达科他恶地（Dakota Badlands）的一座牧场，那里野牛在草原上漫游，台地像岩石之海中的波浪一样起伏。他被开阔的景观和农场生活的纯朴魅力深深吸引，于是写信给朋友，热情地邀请他们来访。这些“dudes”（当时是对城市人的称呼）通过自理费用来回报他的热情款待——于是，牛仔旅游诞生了。

今年九月标志着“牧场度假者协会”（Dude Ranchers’ Association）第一次会议成立100周年，该协会致力于推广前往那些以全包形式接待客人的经营性养牛场旅游。如今的住宿体验仍与霍华德·伊顿最初设想的非常相似：游客们骑马奔驰，参加赶牛活动，在排舞中练习摇滚舞步，并在营火的柔光下享受烧烤。徒步、野泳和观鸟同样广受欢迎。一些物业甚至提供水疗等精品体验，利用大众媒体中牛仔文化的复兴（由派拉蒙公司星光熠熠的《黄石》系列等项目的成功所推动）来获利。斯特森帽（Stetson hats）和牛皮靴依然经典，但这无疑是一个新的前沿。

ANGELA LOCATELLI 2026年9月 15

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最新动态

远足之旅

法国最新的国家级远足径（Grande Randonnée de Pays）将于九月启动，穿越法国和比利时境内郁郁葱葱的阿登山脉。这条全长217英里的多日环线沿途设有住宿点，使徒步旅行者可以将行程分为15个路段，途经中世纪城镇、清新的湖泊和宛如神话般的冷杉林。

这条小径经过中世纪的防御城镇色当（Sedan），那里曾是多次历史战役的发生地。

16 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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编辑精选

探险家齐聚华盛顿

经过四年的改造，国家地理学会的总部现在成为了一个尖端博物馆的所在地

国家地理探索博物馆（National Geographic Museum of Exploration）已在华盛顿特区开馆，鼓励所有年龄段的旅行者挖掘内心的冒险精神。首季的亮点包括庭院音乐表演、一场聚焦美国多样化景观的摄影展，以及一次探索海洋奇观的夜间体验。游客还可以在沉浸式剧院观看轮播节目，与国家地理探险家面对面交流，并在一个探索“黄色边框”遗产的展览中深入研究该杂志的档案，该边框始于1888年。

前三名

新活跃之旅

这些由导游带领的欧洲体验和行程为旅行者提供了与众不同的选择，无论是带着家人在罗马奔跑，还是在一次行程中探索冰岛的两座冰川。

1 罗马亲子跑步

ArcheoRunning 将历史与运动结合在意大利首都的慢跑之旅中。新路线是为儿童设计的，节奏舒缓，涵盖了诸如这座城市深受喜爱的猫群等话题。

2 运河单车与游船

Cycling for Softies 长期专注于悠闲的两轮旅行。今年，它增加了新的行程，客人白天骑行，夜晚住在精品驳船上，沿着多瑙河等标志性水道前行。

3 冰岛双冰川徒步

Arctic Adventures 推出了 Glacier Beyond 项目，这是一次连接瓦特纳冰川国家公园（Vatnajökull National Park）中心两座冰川的徒步之旅——也是唯一提供此类行程的预定日游。从热门的 Falljökull 出发，前往 Virkisjökull，领略极少数人能见到的该地区另一面。adventures.is SEPTEMBER 2026 17

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最新动态

运动背后的里程

路易斯安那州民权之路（Louisiana Civil Rights Trail）在纽奥良揭幕了一个新标志，扩展了这一与美国历史上关键运动相关的 105 英里遗址网络。该路线于 2021, 启动，目前共有 15 个站点，其中 5 个位于纽奥良——这里是 1950 年代和 1960年代, 年代反抗种族隔离和歧视的关键战场。最新的解说牌重点标注了 1960, 年一群年轻学生举行该市首次静坐示威的地点，为该地区废除种族隔离奠定了基础。游客可以利用纽奥良的路线标志创建自助导览游，参观 Dooky Chase's 餐厅等地点，包括 Oretha Castle Haley 和 Martin Luther King Jr 在内的民权领袖曾在此一边品尝热气腾腾的秋葵浓汤（gumbo），一边进行集会。市内的路易斯安那州民权博物馆是另一个值得造访的站点。除了“大快活之城”（The Big Easy），该路线还穿过 Pineville、Lafayette 和 Baton Rouge 等地区。在后者，有一个关于 1967, 年从 Bogalusa 到 Baton Rouge 大游行的标志，当时活动人士步行 105 英里，抗议对竞选公职的非裔美国人的歧视。louisianacivilrightstrail.com

内部人士：马拉喀什

依托这座摩洛哥城市的艺术遗产，El Fenn 推出了专注于时尚、艺术、室内设计和花园设计的专业静修项目。在这家以艺术为导向的庭院酒店（riad hotel）中，客人们在由全球创意专家陪同深入探索这座“玫瑰之城”的众多集市（souks）和伊斯兰花园的同时，还可以期待与工匠会面、参加幕后参观和造型工作坊。四晚起价每人 £3,040。 el-fenn.com

贝叶挂毯返回英国引发轰动

这件描绘诺曼征服的纺织品极其罕见且古老，长度达 70 米，足以占据整个展厅。在经历千年之后，它终于回到了原产国。该挂毯在深夜从诺曼底运抵，将于 10 September 2026 to 11 July 2027, 在大英博物馆展出，期间将伴有主题讲座和工艺之夜。门票 £25. britishmuseum.org 18 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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庞皮杜艺术中心之作将点缀国家古迹

文艺复兴时期的城堡以及法国伟人的安息之地将在今年秋季接待该美术馆的巡展收藏。在 2025 年关闭以进行为期五年的重大翻修后，巴黎著名的现代艺术美术馆开启了一场冒险。“星座”（Constellation）计划将庞皮杜中心（Centre Pompidou）海量馆藏中的作品发送至法国境内及境外，直到 2030 年重新开放——而今年秋季，接收这些作品的是该国一些最壮观的国家古迹。

9 月，一场快闪展览将来到巴黎先贤祠（Panthéon）的地下室，这里安葬着包括玛丽·居里、伏尔泰和约瑟芬·贝克在内的法国名流。这场名为《微小生命》（Vies Minuscules）的多学科展览将于 25 日起接管这座新古典主义的拱顶中殿。通过 30 位艺术家的作品，展览将探讨记忆、流亡和日常生活等主题，这些艺术家涵盖了从 20 世纪捷克画家弗朗蒂谢克·库普卡（František Kupka）到当代法国摄影师穆罕默德·布鲁伊萨（Mohamed Bourouissa）等不同风格的创作者。

另一个庞皮杜项目将于 10 月在卢瓦尔河谷中心区（Centre-Val de Loire）启动，一场向亚历山大·考尔德（Alexander Calder）致敬的活动将带领艺术爱好者游览 15 处文化古迹。考尔德在 20 世纪因其“动态”艺术装置而闻名，此次展览的时间点旨在庆祝这位美国艺术家抵达法国 100 周年；他在法国生活了 50 年，其中在卢瓦尔地区就度过了二十多年。作品将分布在若干座文艺复兴时期的城堡以及地区博物馆中。 centrepompidou.fr monuments-nationaux.fr

明年春天，庞皮杜中心将在法兰西岛大区（Île-de-France）开设一个新的艺术保护与展览中心。

新发布

轻松时刻

埃及

在这本由 Rawah Badrawi 和 Suzanne Zeidy 创作的旅行日志与食谱结合的作品中，食物是核心，书中记录了来自埃及各地的 140 多个食谱。 £30, Nourish

东京

拉面店、艺伎、古老的店面——法国设计师 Zoé de Las Cases 的这本成人涂色书涵盖了所有这些内容，共包含 42 幅插画。此外还有纽约版本。 £20, Octopus

作家的地图

探索从 J.R.R. 托尔金到 A.A. 米尔恩等传奇作家的想象地理，以及启发他们的现实地图。 £25, Thames & Hudson

图片：AWE 图片：EMMA LAPPIN / LA FABRIQUE DE PATRIMONIES EN NORMANDIE, ANTOINE CAZIN / GETTY 2026 19

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赫尔海事博物馆恢复运营

经过六年的建筑工程、£2000 万 的投资以及对 1,300 件展品的整理，赫尔海事博物馆（Hull Maritime Museum）于 8 月 8 日重新开放。这座具有国家重要意义的存储库在约克郡这座沿海城镇扩大了两倍的公共空间，使博物馆能够展示其海量馆藏中增加 50% 的展品。

大规模的翻修还使其步入了 21 世纪，通过沉浸式展厅让 800 年的海事历史栩栩如生。赫尔自 13 世纪以来一直是英国的主要港口，到 19 世纪初，它还成为了世界上最大的捕鲸中心之一。馆藏通过稀有的鲸鱼牙齿刻画民间艺术以及像北大西洋露脊鲸（现已极度濒危）完整骨架这样的文物来讲述这段历史。

其他展品包括欧内斯特·沙克尔顿爵士（Sir Ernest Shackleton）乘坐“坚忍号”（Endurance）前往南极探险时携带的物品，以及一个致力于保存海洋故事的新社区展览。博物馆的改造是一个更广泛项目的组成部分，旨在振兴和提升这座城市的海事遗产，其中包括对斯普恩灯船（Spurn Lightship）和鳕鱼捕捞船“北极海盗号”（Arctic Corsair）的修缮，这两艘船目前都停泊在赫尔。 maritimehull.co.uk

向“犯罪女王”致敬

谋杀之谜的粉丝们，准备好你们的放大镜：一年一度的阿加莎·克里斯蒂节（Agatha Christie Festival）将于 9 月在这位犯罪小说家的故乡托基（Torquay）回归。今年正值她逝世 50 周年，规模将比以往任何时候都更大，并为超级粉丝增加了一场知识问答游戏节目。参与者可以在探索这座德文郡小镇的同时追随克里斯蒂的足迹，参加作者讲座，或享受 1920 年代的服装巡游。该节日于 9 月 12-20 日举行，早于大英图书馆的一场重大新展《阿加莎·克里斯蒂：神秘世界》（Agatha Christie: A World of Mystery）的开幕，后者将于 10 月 30 日开幕。票价活动 £13 起。iacf-uk.org

山峦在歌唱...

萨尔茨堡将为《音乐之声》（The Sound of Music）建立一座永久的纪念馆。该博物馆将于 9 月 20 日在海尔布伦宫（Hellbrunn Palace）的 grounds 开幕，将探讨这部音乐剧以及 1965 年朱莉·安德鲁斯主演电影的现象，以及真实的冯·特拉普家族的历史。salzburgmuseum.at

20 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片来源 ALAMY, EMILY APPLETON

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JAZ Elite CRYSTAL

Almaza Bay 的新律动

在 JAZ Elite Crystal，奢华由氛围、生活方式以及现代的沿海生活方式所定义。这座位于 Almaza Bay 中心地带的海滨物业将健康、高端餐饮、精心策划的体验以及从日出到日落后的活力社交能量融为一体。作为地中海最受欢迎的夏季目的地之一，Almaza Bay 提供的不仅仅是一次度假——它给客人们留下的感觉在季节结束之后仍将持久。欲了解更多信息，请访问 www.jazhotels.com

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全包式探险之旅：南极洲 / 加拉帕戈斯 / 格陵兰 / 阿拉斯加 / 挪威 / 斯瓦尔巴

“第一次看到北极熊是一个真正特别的时刻。”

Annette, Kent

探险之旅

改变你看世界的方式 020 3811 5277 / travelhx.com / 联系您的旅行代理 北极探险之旅的 1 号选择¹ ABTA 自信出行 ABTA 编号 Y6635 完整条款与条件请参阅网站。 ¹来源：Cruise Industry News Expedition Report 2026. 图片：© Shutterstock。 WITNESS 英国旅游奖 2026 最佳航线选择 THE EXPEDITION VOYAGES

The Edit.

IN SEASON

冲浪浪点

随着欧洲海域仍保留着夏季的温暖，且离岸海域更剧烈的天气带来了可靠的涌浪，现在正是乘风破浪之时。

西班牙 提升技巧 坎塔布里亚（Cantabria）崎岖的海岸线使其成为冲浪九月涌浪的绝佳地点，这些浪潮正拍打着西班牙的北岸。在热闹的港口城市桑坦德（Santander）两侧，悬崖间的金色沙滩为冲浪课程提供了风景优美的场所。在温和的索莫海滩（Playa de Somo）进行一两次练习以建立信心，然后开始在各个海滩之间穿梭。

英国 迎接本土涌浪 夏季结束之际，急流将汹涌的波涛推向英国的冲浪中心——康沃尔（Cornwall）。菲斯特拉尔海滩（Fistral Beach）是该郡的瑰宝，从纽基（Newquay）中心步行不久即可抵达汹涌的浪点。再往南，波思托万（Porthtowan）和格威西安（Gwithian）等村庄则是通往更广阔的青色海水和泡沫浪花的门户。

法国 冲浪社交 来自世界各地的冲浪者前往法国西南部的朗德（Landes）地区，沉醉于沿比斯开湾延伸的 65 英里连续不断的沙滩。莫利埃-埃-马（Moliets-et-Maa）是国际冲浪营的中心，吸引了一群白天在水中冲浪、夜晚在舞池狂欢的人群。向南，奥塞戈尔（Hossegor）举办各项赛事；其巨大的波涛即使是对最资深的专业人士也是一项挑战。

挪威 回归自然 在北极圈的高纬度地区，罗弗敦群岛（Lofoten archipelago）提供了远离欧洲西南部繁忙海滩的纯净冲浪体验。在翁斯塔德海滩（Unstad Beach），浪花在雾气缭绕的雄伟山脉背景下拍击——在旭日的光辉下欣赏这一奇观最为惬意。不在水中时，你可以花时间徒步，入夜后则可以扫描天空寻找北极光。

葡萄牙 沿岸跳跃 葡萄牙西海岸拥有极佳的冲浪资源，佩尼谢（Peniche）正处于其核心地带。在围墙小镇之外，有适合各种水平的海滩——从巴莱阿尔南海滩（Praia Baleal Sul）的家庭游客和初学者，到超级管浪海滩（Praia dos Supertubos）的世界顶尖高手。许多海滩可通过公共交通到达，这意味着在不同海滩之间跳转非常方便。

BILLY THOMAS 图片：ALAMY 2026年9月 23

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内部指南

佛兰德斯的啤酒

比利时北部的这个地区遍布着酿酒厂。其中一些酿酒厂开放品鉴、提供导览并设有住宿。文字 REBECCA CROWE 插画 MARTIN HAAKE

在佛兰德斯的中世纪城市、宁静村庄和延绵的平原乡村之间，你会发现一种浓厚的酿酒文化。该地区的酿酒传统可以追溯到 12 世纪，当时饮用水经常被污染，僧侣们会酿造麦芽酒，为教区居民提供安全的饮用水。十年前，比利时啤酒文化被列入联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产名录。现在，一些酿酒厂兼作住宿场所——这为一场致力于佛兰德斯最受喜爱饮品的朝圣之旅提供了绝佳理由。

为了了解背景，可以先从布鲁塞尔市中心的比利时啤酒世界（belgianbeerworld.be）开始。这座互动式博物馆位于新古典主义风格的证券交易所大楼（La Bourse）内，将带你领略该国啤酒文化的历史。在参观过程中你可以品尝各种啤酒，行程的终点是在顶楼酒吧喝一杯，俯瞰城市的中心广场——大广场（Grand-Place）。

从首都乘坐火车即可轻松抵达，位于中世纪城市梅赫伦（Mechelen）的 Het Anker（hetanker.be）在当地最古老的运营酿酒厂之一提供住宿。原有的仓库被分成了 22 间工业风格的房间，床头柜由啤酒箱制成。这里的氛围十分惬意，设有旅舍风格的休息室、厨房以及销售现场酿造瓶装啤酒的自动售货机。在小酒馆享用 bitterballen（油炸肉酱球）等传统菜肴，然后前往露台观看太阳在银色谷仓之间落下。

就在拐角处是梅赫伦的大贝居院（Great Beguinage），这是比利时 13 个被列入联合国教科文组织名录的中世纪社区之一，过去未婚的独立女性可以在这里生活。在探索城市的其他部分之前，先在它的斜屋顶下漫步。这里曾是强大的奥地利玛格丽特（Margaret of Austria）的故居，这位哈布斯堡王朝成员在 16 世纪初塑造了该地区。你可以参加 Visit Mechelen（visit.mechelen.be）的导览活动来了解她，途中会经过 Grote Markt 广场。在这里，你会发现 13 世纪的圣伦博德大教堂（Saint Rumbold's Cathedral）及其自动演奏的钟琴，其锤击钟声每隔几分钟就会响起。

乘坐火车 30 分钟即可到达鲁汶（Leuven），这里是佛兰德斯非正式的啤酒之都，也是著名酿酒商 Stella Artois 的所在地。这座大学城拥有繁荣的学生酒吧文化，更不用说像 Hop Gastrobar（hopgastrobar.com）这样拥有开放式厨房且啤酒清单长得像字典一样的现代餐厅。建议选择一款果味浓郁的 Oude Rhubarbe Tilquin à l'Ancienne，它与烤白芦笋是绝配。

午餐后，从当地旅游运营商 Leuven Leisure（leuvenleisure.com）租一辆自行车，选择五条“骑行酿酒厂”路线之一出发。其中一条较短的路线会带你来到哈赫特（Haacht）市镇的起伏原野，那里有 Kraneveldhoeve（kraneveldhoeve.be），一家拥有数百年历史的农舍兼酿酒酒店。在由古董木吧台主导的品鉴室里啜饮清爽的 Dormaal Saison，然后在木梁下休息。

如果时间充裕，可以考虑前往一个多小时车程外的根特（Ghent），然后乘车前往市外宁静的埃弗格姆（Evergem）市镇。在埃特费尔德（Ertvelde）小村庄的农田环绕中，微型酿酒厂 Hopspot（hopspot.be）提供白砖房住宿。它由成立于 1784 年的 Brouwerij Van Steenberge 酿酒厂所有，其酒吧和小酒馆支持当地农民和生产者。你还可以在为期一天的研讨会中酿造自己的啤酒，使用各种比利时酵母、麦芽和啤酒花——这是旅程的完美收尾。

如何前往：乘坐 Eurostar 从伦敦到布鲁塞尔需两小时。Het Anker 住宿价格 €109 (£95) 起，含早；Kraneveldhoeve 价格 €120 (£104) 起，含早；Hopspot 价格 €122 (£106) 起，含早。eurostar.com

24 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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法国，里昂

VIVIANA PISACANE Viviana 原籍意大利，她与哥哥 Antonio 共同经营 Le Boeuf d'Argent 餐厅，该餐厅旨在赞美法国与意大利的风味。2026 年 6 月，Viviana 赢得了法国《顶级厨师》（Top Chef）的冠军，这是一档汇集了全法国专业厨师的烹饪真人秀节目：restaurant-leboeufdargent.com

桌边谈话

主厨 Viviana Pisacane 分享她最喜爱的里昂菜肴，以及她在法国美食之都寻找最新鲜食材的去处。

在里昂，每个人都应该去哪里用餐？

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse 是了解里昂饮食文化的完美起点。这是一个充满活力的室内市场，您可以在这里遇到充满热情的生产者，并品尝到最优质的当地食材。我建议尝试一些生蚝配一杯白葡萄酒；Jésus de Lyon [一种干腌猪肉肠]；Saint-Marcellin 奶酪；如果肚子还装得下，再来一份 praline 塔。这里的氛围非常地道——它会让您明白为什么里昂被认为是法国的美食之都。

有哪家提供传统美食的餐厅值得推荐？

我最喜欢的 bouchon [里昂传统小馆] 是 Le Vivarais，那里有一种真正的优雅感。尝试一下 quenelles de brochet [梭鱼丸]、小牛胸腺和 cervelle de canut [一种用香草和干葱制成的奶酪抹酱]。这里的装饰温馨且经典——是放松身心并享受里昂美食的绝佳场所。

您能推荐一个当地的烹饪课程吗？

Institut Lyfe 提供由主厨和其他专家主持的卓越工作坊和品鉴课；对于任何想要探索法国美食的人来说，这些课程都非常棒。我特别推荐专注于经典法式酱汁和里昂特色菜的课程，因为掌握这些技巧能让您真正理解法国料理。这是一次将专业知识与动手实践相结合的奇妙体验，游客可以将所学带回家并尝试复刻。

里昂有很棒的面包店吗？

我喜欢 Boulangerie Du Palais，这是一个反映了历史悠久的圣让（Saint-Jean）社区节奏的小店。我最喜欢点的是 pain aux raisins [葡萄干面包]——它简单、慰藉且制作完美。有时最简单的事物反而最难做好，我一直很欣赏其中的工艺和对细节的关注。我还非常喜欢 Bouillet，这是一家由 Sébastien Bouillet 经营的糕点店。那里色彩缤纷且不失优雅，所有产品都呈现得非常精美。Sébastien 的作品始终精致且不过分甜腻。我会点 tarte aux pralines [亮粉色，由酥皮、praline 糖果和双层奶油制成]，这是里昂最具标志性的甜点。

您理想的休息日会是什么样子？ 它是从一杯咖啡和一份点心开始，然后漫步于圣安托万市场（Saint-Antoine market）。只要有空闲的早晨我就会去那里，因为我喜欢与生产者交流并了解当季产品。我没有唯一最喜欢的摊位，因为我喜欢发掘不同的手工艺人，但我总是会在那里购买时令水果、地区奶酪和新鲜蔬菜。接着，我会穿过里昂旧城（Vieux Lyon），登上富维耶尔（Fourvière）山顶区欣赏城市景观。我会在一家传统的 bouchon 餐厅享用午餐，随后在金色公园（Parc de la Tête d'Or）静心散步。下午，我会拜访当地的手工艺人，或在半岛区（Presqu'île [市中心]）逛逛独立店铺，最后在索恩河（Saône River）畔以晚餐结束这一天。采访：FARIDA ZEYNALOVA 有时最简单的事情反而最难做好；我欣赏这种匠心。 图片：LE BON CUCHE, ALAMY 2026年9月 27 --- 28 / NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- The Edit. # 英国度假 # 莱姆里吉斯（Lyme Regis） 这座位于多塞特郡侏罗纪海岸的乔治亚风格小镇以其绝佳的化石挖掘海滩而闻名，提供了丰富的海滨消遣，从古生物学徒步之旅到风景绝佳的海鲜盛宴。文字：JESSICA PRUPAS 如果你挖掘莱姆里吉斯那些蜿蜒的街道下方，你会发现一个地质奇迹：蓝色利亚斯（Blue Lias）。这一巨大的石灰岩和页岩层序列形成于约 2 亿 年前的中生代，随着侵蚀而显露化石，使这座小镇成为欧洲最重要的古生物学中心之一。这是当地人引以为傲的标志：你会看到一座饱经风霜的雕像，那是著名的化石猎人玛丽·安宁（Mary Anning），她俯瞰着教堂悬崖海滩（Church Cliff Beach）。1823, 在漫步于莱姆里吉斯海岸线时，她挖掘出了世界上首具完整的蛇颈龙（Plesiosaurus）骨架；在她去世近两个世纪后的今天，这座小镇依然是挖掘者的磁石。 # 我该从哪里开始？ 主干道是前滩（Front Beach），其滨海大道旁点缀着一排排淡色的小屋。在西端，你会发现 Shoreline Sauna，其木火加热的北欧风格桑拿房就坐落在沙滩上。附近是科布（the Cobb）：一个人工港口，曾出现在莱姆里吉斯的常客简·奥斯汀（Jane Austen）的小说《劝导》（Persuasion）中。它连接着蒙茅斯海滩（Monmouth Beach），这是一片更安静的鹅卵石地带，深受寻找菊石（ammonites）的化石猎人欢迎——这种独特的螺旋形软体动物已成为这座小镇的象征。你可以在恐龙地化石博物馆（Dinosaurland Fossil Museum）了解更多关于莱姆里吉斯史前居民的信息，这里收藏了超过 3万,000 件标本，包括在附近挖掘出的类海豚鱼龙以及一只巨大的肉食性沧龙的头骨。博物馆还组织由当地古生物学家带领的化石徒步活动，有机会收集到子弹形状的箭石（belemnites）化石——那是曾经在海洋中游弋的类乌贼生物的壳。 shorelinesauna.co.uk dinosaurland.co.uk 您知道吗？莱姆里吉斯当地人玛丽·安宁在发现现藏于伦敦自然历史博物馆的著名鱼龙骨架时，年仅 12 岁。

除了化石之外还有什么？

Cobb 码头是 Lyme Rib Rides 的出发点，其观光游船沿海岸线疾速穿行。您可以选择令人心潮澎湃的 20 分钟“Lyme 冲刺”之旅，或是时长一小时、途经巍峨悬崖和秘密海湾的巡游。或者，沿着连接蒙茅斯海滩（Monmouth Beach）与西南海岸路径（South West Coast Path）的阶梯向上走——这是一条全长 630 英里的步道，勾勒出英格兰这个被海浪拍打的角落。向西步行一小时，您将抵达艾克斯茅斯至莱姆里吉斯下崖国家自然保护区（Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs National Nature Reserve）。这段七英里长的海岸线具有独特的特征，是由一系列山体滑坡形成的，产生了起伏的悬崖和多样化的林地。回到莱姆里吉斯，可以参观镇磨坊（Town Mill）：该遗址可追溯至 1340 年，其 17 世纪的水磨坊由志愿者精心修复。这里已成为当地企业的聚集地，包括艺术工作室、一家复古风格的精品店和一家陶艺工作室，此外还有莱姆里吉斯酿酒厂（Lyme Regis Brewery），其精酿啤酒在庭院中品尝起来格外惬意。lymeribrides.com townmill.org.uk lymeregisbrewery.com

哪里有美食？

在 Front Beach 的 Kiosk 开始您的一天，这里供应填入香肠或哈罗米芝士的早餐贝果，最惬意的方式就是躺在鹅卵石滩的日光浴椅上享用。午餐或晚餐可以选择 Sandro's，这是一家由前 River Cottage 主厨 Alessandro Strillozzi 操刀的精致家庭式餐厅。菜单随季节变化，将英国食材融入意式料理中，例如搭配波伦塔（polenta）的鹿肉。在俯瞰莱姆湾（Lyme Bay）的山顶上，您可以找到由可持续捕鱼倡导者兼电视主厨 Mitch Tonks 开设的 Rockfish。客人们可以从附近布里克斯汉鱼市（Brixham Fish Market）的每日渔获清单中进行选择，并在欣赏莱姆里吉斯历史中心的美景时用餐。此外还有 Tom's，一家获得 AA Rosette 认证的小馆，其海鲜拼盘——堆满了龙虾、扇贝、蟹肉可乐饼、珍珠蚝和虾——堪称传奇。@kiosk_lymeregis @sandros_lymeregis therockfish.co.uk tomslymeregis.com

如何前往：最近的火车站是 Axminster 站，有来自伦敦滑铁卢车站（London Waterloo）和埃克塞特圣大卫车站（Exeter St Davids）的直达服务。从那里乘坐 X51 或 X53 路巴士进入镇中心。Jurassic Properties 提供每晚 £180 起的度假屋和公寓（最少入住两晚）。jurassicproperties.com visit-dorset.com

从左上角起顺时针方向：海滨大道上的日落；来自 Rockfish 的烤扇贝和龙虾；Cobb 码头的帆船；乘船是欣赏莱姆里吉斯海岸线的一种令人兴奋的方式。 图片来源：GETTY；ED：OVENDEN / ROCKFISH；LYME BAY RIB RIDES 2026 年 9 月 29

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B BLUESOUND

PULSE FLEX

让每个房间充满活力

PULSE FLEX 无线一体式扬声器旨在实现轻松安装，是需要任何空间都具备 HiFi 级音质的集成商之信赖方案。它可以布置在房屋各处、壁挂安装、组成立体声对，或与 Bluesound 的高端回音壁配合使用，作为无线家庭影院系统的一部分。通过简单易用的 BluOS Controller 应用程序，用户可以进行流媒体播放，并与流行的家庭自动化系统集成，以获得无缝的智能家居体验。PULSE FLEX 不仅仅是一款扬声器——它是提升每个空间音质最简单的方式。

BLUESOUND MQA B Qualcomm® aptX™ HD WiFi CERTIFIED Spotify BluOS with Apple AirPlay

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住宿与活动

在巴斯克地区采摘葡萄

西班牙比斯开海岸的一座前家族府邸邀请宾客探索该地区最受欢迎的葡萄酒，并参与收获仪式。

从夏季到秋季的缓慢过渡是探索西班牙巴斯克地区的理想时机。随着气温降低，沿海的葡萄园变为黄色和金色，标志着收获季节的开始。位于盖초（Getxo）镇的 Palacio Arriluce 酒店是海滨度假并增添葡萄酒鉴赏体验的绝佳基地。盖초在 20 世纪初变得流行，当时来自仅 10 英里之遥的比尔巴奥（Bilbao）的富裕居民来到这里，在悬崖边建造别墅作为夏季避暑胜地。其中一座建筑——新哥特式风格的 Palacio Arriluce，于 1912 年为 Arriluce de Ybarra 的侯爵和侯爵夫人定制。现在这里是一家拥有 49 间客房的酒店，保留了其石塔、彩色玻璃窗以及盖초码头的景观。Delaunay 餐厅提供对经典巴斯克菜肴的现代演绎，而宫殿的礼拜堂现在则是一家鸡尾酒酒吧。宾客可以参观酒店的酒窖，了解巴斯克葡萄酒，包括 txakoli，这是一种清爽的起泡白葡萄酒，与该地区的海鲜完美搭配。txakoli 曾被认为只是简单的餐酒，这种巴斯克主打酒在 1989. 年获得了其首个原产地名称认证。

为了获得更亲身的体验，Palacio Arriluce 酒店在比斯开领先的 txakoli 生产商之一 Bodegas Itsasmendi 提供收获之旅。从 9 月下旬到 10 月中旬，宾客可以手工采摘葡萄，品尝当地品种，并直接从储罐中啜饮新鲜压榨的葡萄汁。行程以品尝最终产品结束。每一年的年份酒都具有鲜明的大西洋风格，具有高酸度和咸味，并带有柑橘和草本的香气，反映了巴斯克海岸的地貌。

ZOE BELL

如何前往： 两晚的“巴斯克风味”套餐起价为两人 €1,600 (£1,387)，含早餐，包括在 Delaunay 的一餐和收获之旅。双人间起价 €400 (£347)，含早餐。Vueling 航空从盖特威克（Gatwick）、希思罗（Heathrow）和爱丁堡（Edinburgh）飞往比尔巴奥。

The Edit. 建于 1912, 年，Palacio Arriluce 最初由一位侯爵所有 Bodegas Itsasmendi 提供 txakoli 品鉴和参观

另外三种巴斯克美食体验

参加 Pintxo 之旅

从酒店出发，步行 15 分钟即可到达 Algorta 的旧港，这是一个拥有粉刷白墙房屋和陡峭鹅卵石街道的古朴渔村。参加一次该社区的导览 pintxo 之旅，尝试一口大小的美味佳肴，例如 Bar Arrantzale 餐厅中放在法棍面包片上的新鲜坎塔布里亚（Cantabrian）凤尾鱼。

尝试时令农产品

访问位于 Bakio 沿海山坡上的一个有机蔬菜农场，距离盖초半小时车程。在 Ekorlegi，农民 Jon Ander 种植多种作物——从韭葱和花椰菜到像爪子一样的佛手柑。游客可以通过 Bilbao Food Safari 的导览之旅品尝时令农产品。

观看苹果酒收获

苹果酒是另一种深受巴斯克人喜爱的饮品。在 9 月中旬至 11 月中旬的收获季节，旅行者可以参观 Sagardoa 路线上的传统苹果酒屋，该路线横跨整个地区。清爽、果味浓郁的苹果酒通常从高处倾倒，以激发其独特的风味。 sagardoa.eus

图片：GETTY, BODEGAS ITSASMENDI SEPTEMBER 2026 31

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The Edit. 竞赛

赢取奖品！

在 The Tawny 度过周末

这家位于北斯塔福德郡（Staffordshire）的独立奢华酒店将给读者机会赢取在峰区（Peak District）边缘的两晚住宿

体验

The Tawny 坐落在 Consall 村外一个占地 70 英亩的再野化庄园内，宛如一个独立的世界。这家独立酒店重新定义了传统的乡村别墅住宿体验，其解构主义设计意味着各种住宿设施——从木屋到石屋——散落在整个园林之中。宾客可以在户外加热泳池边放松身心，探索庄园的湖泊、林间小道和装饰性建筑，或在获得三朵 AA 玫瑰花奖的 The Plumicorn 餐厅享用时令美食。这里便捷地连接着斯塔福德郡穆尔兰斯（Staffordshire Moorlands）和峰区国家公园（Peak District National Park）——那里有广袤的石楠花覆盖的山丘、古老的村庄和嶙峋的石灰岩露头。thetawnyhotel.com

奖品

一名幸运赢家及其一名同行者将享受在 The Tawny 宽敞的 Retreat Room 的两晚住宿。奖品包括每天早上的早餐以及酒店设施的全权使用权，包括户外加热泳池和规模宏大且经过精美再野化的园林。奖品必须提前预订，视供应情况而定，且不包括学校假期和银行假期。必须在竞赛截止日期后的 12 个月内兑现。

如何参与

请访问 natgeotv.com / uk / competitions 回答以下问题： The Tawny 酒店位于英国哪个郡？

竞赛于 2026 年 9 月 30 日 23:59 截止。赢家必须是英国居民且年满 18 岁。主办方为 APL Media Limited，《国家地理旅行者》（英国版）的出版商，地址为 Highgate Studios, 33-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL。奖品共一项，包含最多两人的一次住宿。每个姓名和电子邮箱地址仅限一次参赛。赢家将随机抽取。奖品视供应情况而定，不可兑换且不可转让。不提供现金替代方案。完整条款与条件请访问 ngtv.uk / thetawny2026

32 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片：JAKE EASTHAM

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南格陵兰

条条大路通罗马。请选择那条向北而行的路。 探索南格陵兰，那里有冰川、北极光和冰山在等待着你。 访问 SOUTH GREENLAND 在此开始规划您的旅程：WWW.VISITSOUTHGREENLAND.COM

精选。 当在

布达佩斯

在匈牙利首都，最令人兴奋的体验是对创意与传统的共同颂扬，从复兴的烹饪机构到带有颓废风格的新卡巴莱酒吧。

寻找布达佩斯的班克斯基

布达佩斯的每一个转角都拥有令人惊叹的建筑细节——哥特式尖顶、巴洛克式圆顶、新艺术风格立面——它奖赏那些细心观察的人。在这座城市的诸多小惊喜中，包括由匈牙利-乌克兰游击艺术家 Mihály Kolodko 散布的青铜微缩雕塑。有些旨在纪念当地英雄，有些则在暗示该国最新的政治或流行文化。例如，圣盖勒特广场（Szent Gellért tér）地铁站的一个尤达小像，以及瓦伊达胡尼亚德城堡（Vajdahunyad Castle）后面的德古拉小雕像，但新作品经常出现。Kolodko 有时也会将它们重新创作成珠宝。kolodko.eu

举杯品鉴匈牙利的自然葡萄酒

蜂蜜般甜美的托卡伊阿苏（tokaji aszú）和口感浓郁的埃格里比卡维尔（egri bikavér）：匈牙利一直以来都能酿造出绝佳的饮品。但布达佩斯的低干预葡萄酒场景如今已呈爆发之势——这一新趋势将富有冒险精神的酿酒师、氛围轻松的酒吧以及不拘小节的客群聚集在一起。在国家歌剧院后方的 Marlou 葡萄酒吧，在裸露的砖墙环绕中坐下来，品尝来自 22 个产区之一的火山白葡萄酒、芳香的橙酒或浑浊的 pét nats（天然起泡酒）。每一杯酒都承载着一个故事，请带着好奇心前来。marlouwinebar.com

沉浸在当地的水疗文化中

当游客们在布达佩斯那些著名的浴场前排队时，当地人则前往卢卡奇（Lukács）浴场，那里的温泉水据说具有疗效——展出的铭牌是前客人们留下的感谢信。在室外泳池、桑拿房和日光浴露台之间轮换体验。lukacsfurdo.hu

在 Kádár Étkezde 用餐

这家餐厅自 1957 年起营业，供应分量十足的菜肴，如慢炖的 cholent（传统犹太炖菜）。去年 9 月在停业五年后重新开业时，爱好者们纷纷涌回，查看那些格子桌布和黑白照片是否依然在。庆幸的是，一切都还在。kadaretkezde.hu

像 1925 年那样狂欢

布达佩斯的夜生活带着一丝顽皮，位于 Dob utca 的一家新卡巴莱酒吧带回了这座城市战间期时期的深夜颓废风。Vörös Neon 的日程表涵盖了现场音乐会、变装秀、脱衣舞表演和卡拉 OK 之夜——部分活动使用英语。vorosneon.hu

漫步在 Bartók Béla út

这条位于布达（Buda）南部、曾经被忽视的绿荫大道，现在已成为这座首都最具创意的一角。这里的秘诀在于不要匆忙——走进 Kelet 图书馆咖啡馆喝杯咖啡，在 Nor / ma 面包店尝试一个 kakaós csiga（可可卷），然后在该地区的独立画廊和设计店之间随意穿梭。@keletcafe @normabartok

KATA FÁRI SEPTEMBER 2026 35

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The Edit.

微趋势

中国的24小时水疗中心

新一波全天候洗浴中心正将健康养生提升到另一个水平——将餐饮、娱乐和睡眠打包成一个有趣的综合方案。想要穿着睡衣寻求涅槃？不妨考虑访问中国的新一代水疗综合体。这些24小时营业的场所于今年早些时候在网络上走红，外国游客在社交媒体上惊叹于这些全方位休闲度假村。除了泳池、护理室和桑拿房，你还可能发现堆满龙虾和鱼子酱的自助餐、电子游戏休息室、果汁吧和电影室，以及服务员能满足任何心愿（无论是水果拼盘还是面部护理）的放松区。有些甚至提供在睡眠舱过夜的选择。

这些被称为“洗浴中心”的场所根植于中国的公共澡堂：在家庭缺乏浴室的年代，人们去那里洗澡、社交，或许还会做个按摩。大多数旧式澡堂现在已经消失，而过去几年里，功能齐全、热闹非凡的休闲殿堂在原址上兴起。最早的中心之一是深圳的 Tenz Spa，它在 2023 年被重新设计为一个新式休闲空间。在这里，客人们可以在温泉池和 VR 游戏室、喜马拉雅盐屋、无限量 Häagen-Dazs 冰淇淋站以及配备个人电视的巨大放松空间之间穿梭。

深圳与香港相邻——与中国大陆不同，香港可以使用西方社交媒体——这使得其养生文化在外国旅行者面前更具可见度。然而，中国对水疗的痴迷是全国性的。在 2025 年春节假期期间，寒冷的东北城市沈阳的大型洗浴中心产生的交易量超过了国内任何其他城市。根据中国主要数字服务平台之一的美团数据显示，“沈阳洗浴”的搜索量激增了 166%。其中规模最大的中心之一，清河半岛温泉度假酒店，是一个巨大的多层主题温泉和餐厅集群，配备了一个 168 米长的户外无边泳池，以及一个在泡汤间隙可以享用啤酒和烧烤的场所。

另一个以性价比著称的水疗目的地是四川省省会成都。在中国社交媒体应用小红书（RedNote）上，该市最受“喜爱”的水疗中心是汤悦，在线购买 20 小时通行证仅需 99 元（约 £11）。这让你能够进入 11 层充满乐趣的空间，包括卡拉OK房和带有仿真岩浆的蒸汽房。一名小红书用户在总结其吸引力时写道：“一个让疲惫的上班族重新充电生命力的地方——简直是神级。”

THOMAS O'MALLEY

另外三种洗浴文化

日本

日本群岛拥有超过 2.7万,000 个天然温泉（onsen）。这些富含矿物质的池塘通常与被称为“旅馆”（ryokan）的传统客栈相连，提供的不仅仅是恢复体力的浸泡。温泉同样关乎对美的反思和在自然中寻找和谐，其中一些温泉可俯瞰河流、山脉和森林。

芬兰

在芬兰，蒸汽至上。这个北欧国家的首批桑拿房是挖掘在土中的坑洞。此后，它们演变成了由桦木铺就的时尚木屋。这些木屋被加热到令人眉头灼热的高温，每个木屋都有自己的 kiuaskivet——一堆间歇性浇水以增加湿度的石头；冰冷的水池浸泡则是可选项目。甚至还有一个心怀怨恨的 saunatonttu（桑拿精灵），据说它会造访那些无视桑拿礼仪的人。

摩洛哥

摩洛哥的哈曼（hammam）体验融合了古罗马洗浴和伊斯兰仪式洁净的元素，既是净化也是放松——且是一项重要的共同社交仪式。最传统的洗浴中心被分为一系列房间，访客在蒸汽房中出汗一段时间后，由服务员进行去角质、按摩和清洗。

36 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片来源：TENZ SHENZHEN, GETTY

深入日本 (INSIDE JAPAN) 由 Inside Travel 提供

回忆横丁 (Omoide Yokochō) 东京

御好烧 (Okonomiyaki) 广岛

新干线 (Shinkansen) 本州

与艺伎的游戏 日本揭秘

真正意义上的“小” (chiisai) 小型团体游

• 因为在日本，最好的事物往往是“小”的。小型规模让您能够入住传统的日式旅馆 (ryokan)，融入当地的交通方式，穿梭在霓虹闪烁的后街，在传统的居酒屋 (izakaya) 中与当地人并肩而坐，且无需时刻跟随着导游的旗帜。与您的内部专家 (Insider) 一起深入探索，体验一段地道的日本当地生活。

认证 B 型企业 (Certified B Corporation)

开始规划您的行程 致电 +44 (0)117 409 0013 或访问 insidejapantours.com 了解更多信息

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特别兴趣

模范公民

汉堡的 Miniatur Wunderland 是铁路模型爱好者的朝圣之地 —— 而作家奥利弗·史密斯（Oliver Smith）便是其中之一。

多年前，当时的一位新女友准备向她最亲密的朋友们介绍我。 在正式揭晓前的几分钟，她焦虑地凑过来低声说道：“你不会告诉他们的吧？我是说，关于模型铁路的事……” 那天我保持了沉默 —— 但我现在要坦白了。我一生都在玩铁路模型。这段情缘始于七岁时我收到的第一辆 Hornby “飞翔的苏格兰人”号。在我的青少年时期，在荷尔蒙的激荡中，父母的备用卧室里形成了一个布局模型，这份热爱随之扩大。但其最高光时刻出现在我 37 岁又三个季度的时候 —— 我进行了所有模型爱好者不可避免的朝圣：来到了汉堡 Miniatur Wunderland 的大门前，这里是世界上最大的模型铁路系统。

它由德国兄弟兼铁路爱好者弗雷德里克·布劳恩（Frederik Braun）和格里特·布劳恩（Gerrit Braun）建造，包含约 10 英里的轨道，轨道宽度大约相当于一枚 5 便士硬币；布局本身覆盖了 1,694 平方米。它横跨在仓库区 Speicherstadt 一个仓库的多个楼层。19 世纪末，来自世界各地的货物被进口到这个区域，因此这里一直保持着一种国际精神。Miniatur Wunderland 于 2001 年开业，最初是对一个平凡德国小镇的唤起，但现在它涵盖了遥远的国家和大陆。走几步路，你就可以跨越落基山脉和阿尔卑斯山。去趟洗手间可能会让你经过威尼斯的运河和普罗旺斯的薰衣草田。

它是德国最受欢迎的景点之一，从远处看，你可能会觉得它很轻巧 —— 只是一个惬意的家庭出游地。但参观之后，我很快意识到这是一个极其严肃的工程。进入不久，我经过了控制室，那里控制着 1,200 辆模型火车 —— 就像一个小型的卡纳维拉尔角，操作员们眉头紧锁地盯着无数个屏幕，每当有人说出 entgleisung（脱轨）这个词时，现场就会陷入极度的恐慌。周围环绕着细微的嘶嘶声 —— 像我这样的铁路模型爱好者能认出那是微小车轮在微小轨道上运行的声音。

这里汇集了来自世界各地的火车殿堂：瑞士的亮红色火车在陡坡上缓缓爬行，美国西部的柴油机车在微型台地旁徐徐而过。而我的最爱是：沿着 Cinque Terre 沿岸疾驰的意大利火车。在 Miniatur Wunderland，每 15 分钟白昼就会变为黑夜 —— 灯光变暗，小街道上和车厢内亮起微小的灯盏。这带来了无尽的乐趣，而且我认为，其中还包含着深刻的启示。

根据我自己的经验，铁路模型爱好者的角色类似于《创世记》中的上帝 —— 在几天（或几个月、几年）的时间里，你按照自己的设计构建一个世界，塑造景观并填充人物。无论这些微小的塑料小人是否知晓，Miniatur Wunderland 的居民们生活在一个微小的乌托邦中：一个火车准时运行、模型飞机安全着陆，一个没有战争或动荡的世界。这一切都由一位仁慈且全知的模型制作者监管，他的手从高处出现，将一切拨乱反正。我发现自己沉浸在这个小世界中，暂时忘记了仓库墙外的动荡。

然而，在楼上的一个特别展览空间里，你会发现模型制作也可以揭示更阴暗的事物。一系列透视模型用塑料和纸浆勾勒出了德国的历史。其中一个展示了将家庭分隔开的混凝土墙，另一个则描绘了被炸毁的建筑和穿着微小灰色制服、正行进中的人物。这个系列追溯到了史前时代，那个还没有火车旅行的时代；事实上，在如今 Miniatur Wunderland 所在的这片土地上，当时还没有任何人物行走。这是人类的故事，就像一个从云端俯瞰的人所看到的那样。这令人感到一种奇特的触动。

据称，Miniatur Wunderland 计划建造一个大不列颠布局。如果在另一种人生中，我会自愿提供服务：在那个巨大的德国仓库中心，帮忙打造一个拥有绿色草坪和喷气蒸汽机车的微缩阿尔比恩。但那时我的女朋友现在已成了我的妻子，我担心她可能会让我的计划脱轨。奥利弗·史密斯（Oliver Smith）是一位旅游作家，也是《在这座神圣之岛：一次横跨英国的现代朝圣》（On This Holy Island: A Modern Pilgrimage Across Britain，£10.99，Bloomsbury 出版社）一书的作者。右图：圣彼得大教堂出现在 Miniatur Wunderland 的意大利“主题世界”中，该区域耗时四年建成。 38 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- The Edit.

您知道吗？在 Miniatur Wunderland 有超过 29万,000 个微型模型人物，每个区域都隐藏着令人惊喜的场景——包括一名被鲨鱼追赶的潜水员，以及正在修理教皇座车的僧侣。

SEPTEMBER 2026 39 ---

40 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- The Edit.

# 聚焦 # 阿拉伯海之上 阿曼，Al Ashkharah 港口的鸟瞰图。摄影师 Ben Pipe 访问了阿曼，以体验其阿拉伯遗产。与邻国不同，该国限制高层建筑的发展，保留了一系列古老的定居点、城堡和堡垒。“我花了一天时间探索东海岸的传统小镇 Al Ashkharah，并被那里的渔业区所吸引，”他说道。“这张照片是在日出后海滩安静时拍摄的；我非常喜欢青绿色的海水和船只与浅色沙滩形成的对比。” @benpipephoto SEPTEMBER 2026 41 --- 聚焦

42 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- The Edit. # 巨大的干草堆 ## 摄影组合捕捉罗马尼亚的一项古老农业实践 Michela Balboni 和 Federico Borella 前往罗马尼亚东北部，记录欧洲最后幸存的传统干草制作案例之一。“整个社区共同协作，手工搭建干草堆，家庭和邻居之间分享知识和劳动力，”这两位摄影师解释道。这些草地在不使用化肥或农药的情况下进行管理，也是至关重要的生态系统，承载着种类繁多的植物、昆虫、鸟类和小型哺乳动物。随着现代化带来变革，Bilbor 和 Bicaz 等村庄的干草堆不仅代表了文化遗产，也代表了一种脆弱的可持续农业模式。 @michelabalboni @federicoborella07

## 您知道吗？第一款主流拍照手机由三星在 2000. 年发布。它只能拍摄 20 张分辨率为 0.35 兆像素的照片——而人类眼睛的视觉效果被认为相当于 576.

## 纽约的数十年 ### 跨越时代的摄影集 Harry Gruyaert 的最新著作历时半个多世纪完成，是一封写给这座充满复杂光辉的“大苹果”之城的情书。这位 Magnum 摄影师在对纽约的亲密描绘中，其图像集拍摄于 50 年之间。无论是在该时期的何时拍摄，Gruyaert 色彩浓郁的照片都展现了一座我们能立即认出的城市——无论是 1985 年曼哈顿在爆裂的消防栓水流中玩耍的孩子；2006 年特朗普大厦入口处戴帽子的门卫；还是 2017. 年在时代广场游行的超级英雄装扮者。虽然页码间的时尚在改变，但纽约独特的精神始终如一。 Harry Gruyaert New York; £50 thamesandhudson.com 插图：THAMES & HUDSON SEPTEMBER 2026 43 --- The Edit.

聚焦 “在印度西孟加拉邦的 Kushmandi 村，我遇到了一个意想不到的场景：三位神灵聚集在一起读报纸。他们是 Gomira 舞者，属于一项正在消亡的传统，男性雕刻代表印度教神灵的木制面具，并从一个村庄走到另一个村庄表演他们的故事。在我的镜头中，神话与现实相遇，神灵停下来阅读头条新闻。” 摄影 ARNAB SARKAR @CLICKZLENS 44 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 2026 年 KLIPA 人像奖入围作品：陌生人的脸 - 旅行人像 --- 加拿大 # 河道巡游 LACATIO # 静水巡游

ST. LAWRENCE CRUISE LINES

现正开放预订

体验加拿大河流之美。乘坐经典的加拿大河船，领略千岛（1,000 Islands）的壮丽美景与圣劳伦斯航道（St. Lawrence Seaway）的历史底蕴。在圣劳伦斯河与渥太华河享受 4 到 7 晚的小型船舶静水巡航。从安大略省的金斯顿和渥太华，以及魁北克省的魁北克市出发。请访问我们的网站申请免费旅行手册。www.StLawrenceCruiseLines.com 253 Ontario St., Suite 200, Kingston, Ontario, Canada K7L2Z4 --- © 2020 版权所有。版权所有。所有名称均为 Microsoft Office 的商标。版权所有。---

威尼斯格里蒂宫 (THE GRITTI PALACE VENICE)

定义目的地的酒店™

在威尼斯格里蒂宫（The Gritti Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice）探索这座水城的魅力。这是一座位于威尼斯大运河畔的宫殿式度假胜地，历史与文化在此与焕然一新的优雅相遇。 在 THEGRITTIPALACE.COM 探索目的地 豪华精选酒店 (THE LUXURY COLLECTION) 通过万豪旅享家 (MARRIOTT BONV2Y®) 前往

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意大利

访问的理由，停留的理由 提到意大利的岛屿，人们首先想到的很可能是撒丁岛和西西里岛。在这些“巨星”岛屿的海岸线之外，你会发现宁静的乡村村庄，以及 400 多个较小且鲜为人知的岛屿——从托斯卡纳群岛到普利亚海岸外的特雷米蒂群岛（Tremiti archipelago）——共同构成了意大利丰富多样地中海宝库。其中一些最绝佳的地点几乎仅由意大利人访问，而在较为安静的平季，这里只剩下少量的常住居民。能与他们同行的人们足够幸运，可以体验到一抹真实的当地生活。

文字：ELENA LURAGHI, ALICIA MILLER, JESSICA VINCENT & FARIDA ZEYNALOVA 摄影：FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI

46 / 国家地理 旅游

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岛屿

意大利。

奶酪匠人

新一代的小规模食品生产者正为卡普赖亚岛注入新的生命。这座位于托斯卡纳海岸外的偏远岛屿上，山羊的数量几乎超过了居民。文字：FARIDA ZEYNALOVA

一滴温热的乳清溅在亚历西奥·佩罗尼（Alessio Peroni）沾满泥点的白色洞洞鞋上，他随口坦白道：“直到四个月前，我才知道卡普赖亚岛的存在。”这位 28 岁的年轻人曾是罗马的一名服务员，现已成为一名乳制品生产者。此时，他正在 Azienda Agricola Il Saracello 的小型实验室里过滤三公斤里科塔奶酪（ricotta），这里是岛上唯一的奶酪生产商。“当我的教授告诉我这份工作时，我先是接受了，然后才在地图上查找这个地方，”他说道，指的是这座拥有约 150 名居民的小岛。

几个小时前，我从利沃诺港出发，跨越了 40 英里的海域，乘坐轮渡耗时近三小时。卡普赖亚岛是托斯卡纳群岛的七个岛屿之一，也是唯一一座火山岛。其红色和炭灰色的岩壁从第勒尼安海中陡然升起，赋予了它与邻岛截然不同的崎岖特质：东南部是意大利第三大岛埃尔巴岛；北部是欧洲最后一座岛屿监狱戈尔戈纳岛；而西部则是法国的科西嘉岛前哨。

尽管地质构造独特，卡普赖亚岛依然具有浓郁的地中海风情。岛上的大部分地区覆盖着由香桃木、野薄荷和蜡菊组成的马基群落（maquis），蜡菊散发出一种温暖的、类似咖喱的香气，被广泛应用于卡普赖亚料理中。作为托斯卡纳群岛国家公园的一部分，岛上纵横交错着徒步路径，其中一条路径经过许多 palmenti（用于酿酒的古代石槽），暗示着这里深厚的农业根基。

从港口向岛内行走，游客会经过披挂着洋红色三角梅的石屋和盘绕的陈旧渔绳，偶尔可见一辆 20 世纪 80 年代的菲亚特 Panda 4WD 在狭窄的鹅卵石街道上咳嗽着前行。这里十分宁静，背景音乐是鸟鸣、蝉鸣和农用卡车的轰鸣声。在广场上，年长的当地人坐在松树遮荫的伞下，圣尼古拉教堂那古老的钟声敲响了半点。显而易见，这里的每个人都彼此相识；即便在咖啡馆短暂停留，也能看到熟悉的面孔经过两次。

这种宁静也带来了自身的挑战。许多家庭为了工作和教育搬到了大陆——当地学校仅有 12 名学生。至于游客，他们大多是意大利人且仅在夏季造访，而冬季的风暴会切断岛屿的联系，使其陷入进一步的孤立。

然而，一小群坚定的手工艺生产者正押注于卡普赖亚岛的复兴。“当我决定把山羊带到这座岛上时，人们觉得我疯了，”54 岁的马西米利亚诺·德拉·罗萨（Massimiliano Della Rosa）说道，他是 Il Saracello 的创始人。2016 年，这位白发苍苍的创业者——一名土生土长的卡普赖亚人——引入了

延伸探索

一项全新的多日马拉松赛事将展现托斯卡纳群岛国家公园之美。首届“奔跑托斯卡纳群岛”（Run the Tuscany Islands）将于 24-27 九月在卡普赖亚岛、埃尔巴岛和皮亚诺萨岛举行，参与者可以选择参加单个赛段、全程奔跑或徒步之旅。runtuscanyislands.com

从上方起顺时针方向：Massimiliano Della Rosa 在 Il Saracello 的地窖中检查奶酪的熟成过程；卡普赖亚岛 16 世纪的港口塔楼；Il Saracello 的奶酪包括口感温和的半软质 primosale；卡普赖亚岛是徒步旅行者的热门目的地；山丘上的阿尔卑斯山山羊（camosciata delle Alpi）。

前页：特雷米蒂群岛的乘船之旅 50 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

在岛上原生品种灭绝后，他从皮埃蒙特引入了 100 只阿尔卑斯山山羊（comosciata delle Alpi）。他告诉我，他的羊群由牧羊人 Fulvio Coppini 在山坡上照看，能够很好地适应地中海气候，同时他也密切关注着 Alessio。但在距离最近的大陆港口 40 英里之处生产奶酪绝非易事。“很难说服年轻人留在这里或搬到这里来。”就 Alessio 而言，他似乎很享受这种悠闲的生活方式。“首都太吵了，”他说，“我在这里找到了平静。”作为 Il Saracello 唯一的奶酪制作师，他每天制作约 15 公斤奶酪：新鲜的里科塔（ricotta）；年轻且半软质的 primosale；以及卡普赖亚 mursa。这些产品主要销售给岛上的企业以及港口的奶酪店，然而 Il Saracello 的 mursa 在 2019 年世界奶酪大奖中荣获金奖。当 Massimiliano 带我参观冷藏室时，他面带笑容，而堆叠的浓烈奶酪轮占据了我的嗅觉。当我品尝一口获奖的 mursa 时，它具有无可置疑的卡普赖亚特色：浓郁、奶油般的山羊奶酪，随后散发出蜡菊（helichrysum）的温暖香气，那是岛上火山山丘上漫游的动物们所食用的植物。

葡萄酒笔记

离开 Il Saracello 后，我漫步回到港口。在那里，由 Federico Ferrarini 经营的一家小礼品店出售更多岛上的小批量农产品。其中有来自 Federico 妻子 Roberta Bonomo 的蜂蜜，她在其岳父 2015. 去世后，重新振兴了岳父的小规模养蜂场。在位于卡普赖亚岛内陆山丘的 San Rocco 庄园里，她每天工作 12 小时，生产一系列蜂蜜以及混合了可食用野花的盐。在她的罐装产品旁边，是小袋的刺山柑，由 Azienda Agricola La Sorgente 的夫妻档 Daniele Molinari 和 Angela Malaguti 手工采摘。这对夫妇从艾米利亚-罗马尼亚大区的摩德纳搬到卡普赖亚岛，并在此定居，他们被这座岛屿紧密的社区关系所吸引。

第二天，我前往岛上最高峰 Monte Castello 的山坡，去见几位在这些曾经被遗弃的农地上耕作的葡萄酒生产者。我们开车向上的小径不过是一条在山腰上开凿出的狭窄尘土与岩石带。我们颠簸着向 Azienda Agricola La Mursa 前进，这是一个由 35 岁、蓄着浓密胡须的第三代卡普赖亚人 Francesco Cerri 经营的 4 英亩葡萄园。“我从 10 年前开始种葡萄，”他说，“卡普赖亚岛的微气候——夏季短暂且温暖，冬季潮湿且多风——非常适合娇嫩的葡萄品种。”Francesco 生产数量极少的葡萄酒，例如 Sulàna，这是一种由歌海娜葡萄酿造的略带辛辣味的红葡萄酒，他通过网络和在葡萄园直接销售。

当我们穿过葡萄藤时，我问起他手臂上的大纹身。“那是维纳斯女神，”他自豪地说，“传说当她从波光粼粼的第勒尼安海中升起时，她的项链断了，七颗珍珠掉入大海，形成了托斯卡纳群岛的七座岛屿。”当我询问他与岛上其他少数酿酒师之间是否存在竞争时，答案是坚决的否定。Francesco 说，这里的生产者共同协作，在从订购酒瓶到借用橡木桶的所有事情上互帮互助。其中一位是 Alice Bollani，她在从事销售和市场工作或在港口附近的一家当地咖啡馆帮忙之余，还打理着 14 英亩的 Azienda Vitivinicola La Piana。该酒庄位于卡普赖亚岛曾经的殖民监狱内——直到 1986 年关闭前一直由囚犯耕种——地处山顶。

52 / NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- Italy.

我们在 Francesco 的葡萄园会面，随后她开车带我前往她的酒庄，那里仍保留着其犯罪历史的痕迹，牢房前装着生锈的铁栏杆。从这里望去，视线越过树木和葡萄梯田，延伸至蓝宝石色的海洋，海面上仅点缀着一小簇圆形的鱼类养殖场。在她的工厂里，在三名员工的帮助下，她每年生产约 1.7万,000 瓶红葡萄酒、白葡萄酒和桃红葡萄酒。当我们观察内部设备时，她开启了一瓶酒，为我倒了一杯她最喜欢的：铜色的 Rosa della Piana 2025. 她在工厂开展品酒活动，但凭借政府的投资，她希望将这座建筑改造为一个规模更大、更成功的农家乐体验中心，以吸引游客。

我不禁问她，在两份工作之外，为什么决定再承担一份工作。她告诉我，这种孤立的状态迫使卡普赖亚岛的当地人必须具备韧性和多才多艺——拥有多份工作是为了保护并颂扬这座岛屿深厚的农业遗产。“在这里你不能‘正常’，”Alice 说，“如果你有正常的想法或想做正常的事情，你不应该在卡普赖亚岛。”回想起像 Alessio 这样在甚至不知道卡普赖亚岛在哪里之前就签署了合同的当地人，我觉得她可能是对的。

如何前往：从英国多个机场直飞比萨。从那里乘坐火车 15 分钟到达利沃诺，然后乘坐 Toremar 的渡轮行驶 2 小时 45 分钟到达卡普赖亚岛。卡普赖亚岛的住宿包括 8 间 Saracino Boutique Suites。价格 € 140 (£120) 起。toremar.ir

值得尝试的三家餐厅

1 IL CARABOTTINO 这家户外海鲜餐厅没有菜单，食客们在卡普赖亚岛 16 世纪堡垒旁的松树下享用新鲜捕获的鱼类。为您供应的内容取决于当日的渔获，但支付固定价格即可获得一瓶葡萄酒、墨鱼酱和梭鱼 pennette 意面等菜肴，以及甜点、咖啡和利口酒。 +39 333 393 8002

2 AGRITURISMO VALLE DI PORTOVECCHIO

一对夫妇经营着这座位于前波尔托韦基奥（Porto Vecchio）囚犯殖民地的石砌农舍。农舍坐落在港口上方一条狭窄蜿蜒的道路顶端，他们在这里生产自制的蜂蜜、利口酒和果酱。晚餐以固定菜单形式供应——由一系列季节性开胃菜、两道主菜、葡萄酒和甜点组成。请务必提前预订。 isoladicapraia.it

3 ARURA 距离港口仅几步之遥，家族经营的 Arura 餐厅致力于推广岛上的本地食材。饮品包括注入芳香黄花盏（helichrysum）的金黄色啤酒，而菜单则包含用穆弗隆（mouflon，几十年前引入该岛的野羊）制作的千层面等菜肴。这里还有 pinsa（一种铺满烤蔬菜的椭圆形罗马扁面包）以及 nepitella（一种薄荷科的芳香草本植物，广泛用于托斯卡纳烹饪）。 @arura_capraia

从左至右：酿酒师 Francesco Cerri 在 La Mursa 葡萄园；Roberta Bonomo 在 San Rocco 庄园蜂箱中的蜜蜂；从利沃诺（Livorno）驶来的渡轮所看到的卡普赖亚岛港口。

2026年9月 53

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ITALY VACATION SPECIALISTS 旗下

DRIVERS IN ITALY

全意大利定制驾驶服务

旅程本身就是体验的一部分

从机场接送、令人难忘的日游到多日旅程，我们经验丰富的司机和豪华车队提供的不仅仅是交通。我们带来的是安心、舒适以及以您自己的方式体验意大利的自由。凭借当地知识和对款待的热情，我们的团队为您开启通往真实意大利、隐藏瑰宝以及沿途难忘时刻的大门。 放松。探索。享受旅程。 剩下的交给我们。

Italy Vacation Specialists 旗下成员 专家带您游意大利

您的司机仅一电之遥 / +39 375 823 5314 team@italyvacationspecialists.com

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意大利。

喜欢卡普赖亚岛的感觉？试试……

潘泰莱里亚岛（PANTELLERIA）：以赞誉有加的酿酒闻名

这座西西里岛的岛屿仿佛出自想象。它距离突尼斯（在晴朗的日子里可见于地平线）比距离意大利本土更近，拥有阴郁的黑色悬崖、青绿色的海湾和咆哮的风。初秋是最佳时机，此时暑气已消，海滩游客大多已离去，而收获季节正值高峰。穿行在岛上炭灰色的徒步路径上，可以看到 zibibbo 葡萄挂在藤蔓上——采用被联合国教科文组织列入名录的古老方法栽培——或在架子上缓慢干燥。这个过程浓缩了糖分并带来了蜂蜜般的杏子气息，使这种甜酒像液体黄金一样；岛上有很多品酒室，包括位于西北部的 Solidea，solideavini.com

萨利纳岛（SALINA）：以出人意料的佳肴闻名

萨利纳岛位于西西里岛以北，是埃奥利群岛三个分支的交汇处，这里郁郁葱葱且氛围悠闲。与邻岛相比，它较为低调，但这并非因为缺乏魅力。两座死火山既提供了绝佳的景观，也提供了顶级的徒步地形，但该岛还以萨利纳酸豆（Salina caper）闻名，这是一种注册的慢食（Slow Food）特产，在夏季黎明时分手工采摘并用海盐保存。让当地导游 Giuseppe la Malfa 带您穿梭在繁茂的植株间，随后进行一次品鉴，展示这种花蕾浓郁的酸味和花香特质。之后，在 Signum 酒店及其米其林星级餐厅用餐，主厨 Martina Caruso 将这种食材融入到各种精致料理中。有人想尝试酸豆冰淇淋吗？

hotelsignum.it

追求极致偏远的阿里库迪岛 (ALICUDI)

没有汽车，没有铺设的道路，没有公共街道照明，当地的出租车是驴或骡子。这就是这座以一座极具上镜感的死火山圆顶为主导、以质朴著称的埃奥利群岛之岛所能提供的一切。你来到这里主要是为了寻求宁静、自然和挑战——即便只是前往当地学校，也需要从港口攀登约 350 级台阶，而港口本身仅由几家小型酒店和一家名为 L'Airone 的酒吧组成。岛上最高峰 Filo dell'Arpa 高 675 米，需经由陡峭且具有中等挑战性的路径，沿着梯田山坡而上。

IMAGES: GETTY, ALAMY 2026年9月 55

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Cristo di Berti, e land set installatori 位于原 Gittellino 村遗址上。来自 low Artist Rossana Treomba 在 Antler Epicentro della Memoria Viva 的装置艺术作品。Cantieri colturali alla Cogno Paloma —— 意大利。

视觉艺术家

意大利首个当代艺术之都——位于西西里岛西部的吉贝利纳（Gibellina），汇聚了画家、摄影师和其他创意工作者，向其动荡的过去和坚韧的精神致敬。文字：JESSICA VINCENT

在一个光线昏暗的地下室里，三个红色霓虹灯招牌在裸露的混凝土墙上闪烁。第一个完整地拼写出意大利语单词 memoria（记忆）。在第二个中，有两个字母消失了。到了第三个，只有两个字母可见，其余部分被黑暗吞噬。艺术家 Rossana Taormina 注视着我研究她的最新装置作品，灯光在她触及肩膀的金耳环上闪烁。“记忆和景观一直是我作品的主题，”她说，“我的身份在这里成型。”

我正身处新吉贝利纳（Gibellina Nuova）镇的 Belice Epicentro della Memoria Viva，Rossana 在这里作为意大利首个当代艺术之都计划的一部分展出她的作品。这座博物馆讲述了 1968 年席卷西西里岛西部 Belice 山谷的地震故事，这场地震导致 300 多人死亡，数万人无家可归。旧吉贝利纳（Gibellina Vecchia）位于向东六英里山上的原址，是几个被夷为平地的农业中心之一。

在灾难发生四年后出生在这个山谷的 Rossana，童年是在临时帐篷和金属片定居点中度过的。她家里的许多照片都丢失了；在成长过程中，她会和祖母坐在一起，围绕着残存的碎片编造故事。“废墟滋养了我的想象力，”她说，“在孩子的眼中，我从中看到了美。”她现在居住并在附近的巴勒莫工作，但 Belice 继续塑造着她的实践。

Rossana 不是第一个在地震后果中寻找灵感的艺术家。在事件发生约二十年后，已故的意大利雕塑家 Alberto Burri 将旧吉贝利纳的废墟变成了一件巨大的大地艺术作品，被称为 Cretto（意大利语意为“裂缝”）。从远处看，Cretto di Burri 像一块覆盖在西西里乡村上的灰色拼布毯，起伏的丘陵被染成绿色和稻草黄色——橄榄林、葡萄园、麦田延伸至视线尽头。

仔细观察，你会发现它是由混凝土块组成的，每一块都封印着下方鬼城的街区。游客可以在被阳光晒暖的墙壁所包围的狭窄走廊中行走，追溯曾经的街道和小巷。Cretto 旨在保存那些已经失去的东西，同时也旨在开启新篇章。

“我的父亲说，美是一种必需品，而不是奢侈品，”Antonella Corrao 说，她是已故的 Ludovico Corrao 之女，后者是监督新吉贝利纳创建的市长。我们在 Fondazione Orestiadi 见面，这是她父亲为了在 Belice 山谷推广当代艺术而建立的艺术基金会，现在 Antonella 和她的姐姐 Francesca Maria 担任共同主席。“曾经有过太多的苦难、丑陋和痛苦，”她说道，随着她的手势，金手镯发出叮当声，“只有艺术才能拯救吉贝利纳的灵魂。”

值得绕道前往 巴勒莫的前 Ducrot 家具工厂曾是一个废弃的工业综合体，现已被改造为 Cantieri Culturali alla Zisa，它是西西里岛最令人兴奋的文化中心之一。如今，其旧仓库内设有艺术家工作室、画廊、剧院和电影院，全年开展展览、现场表演和户外节日，其中许多活动可免费参加。 cantiericulturalizisa.it

SEPTEMBER 2026 57

这是一个大胆的想法。在 20 世纪 70 年代和 80 年代，卢多维科·科劳（Ludovico Corrao）邀请了一些意大利顶尖的建筑师、雕塑家和艺术家来共同塑造新吉贝利纳（Gibellina Nuova）。一颗巨大的金属星横跨在通往镇中心的道路上。在它之后，低矮的灰色公寓楼与由金属、石头和混凝土制成的超大雕塑并肩而立。一个亮白色的圆顶像一座巨大的天文台一样在屋顶之上升起。一座巨大的混凝土建筑向天空弯曲。整个场景给人一种超现实的感觉，仿佛一座现代艺术馆的碎片被随机丢弃在了西西里岛内陆的中心。

重绘蓝图

如今，吉贝利纳（Gibellina）及其周边山谷拥有 5,000 多件由意大利最著名的当代艺术家创作的艺术品——对于一个人口仅 3,600 左右的小镇来说，这是一个惊人的数字。正是凭借这些文化财富，吉贝利纳在 2026 年被认定为该国首个“当代艺术之都”。在这一整年里，一系列展览、表演和艺术家驻留计划将入驻其引人注目的建筑之中，其中一些建筑此前从未向公众开放。

其中就包括 Consagra 剧院（Teatro di Consagra），这是一个巨大的波浪形结构，被巨大的椭圆形开口贯穿，一条街道直接从中穿过。该剧院由已故的西西里雕塑家皮埃特罗·孔萨格拉（Pietro Consagra）设计，在数十年间一直是一个空壳，没有舞台也没有座位。现在，它首次作为展览空间迎接游客。

当我抵达时，海浪拍击的声音和钟声在光秃秃的混凝土内部回荡。在剧院的远端——如果该项目最终完工，那里应该是舞台的位置——三个巨型屏幕显示着一个绑着铃铛的轮胎在海中起伏，这是阿尔巴尼亚多媒体艺术家阿德里安·帕奇（Adrian Paci）的作品，灵感来自一个关于在意大利亚得里亚海沿岸丢失的教堂钟的古老传说。

“人们经常把吉贝利纳称为一个露天博物馆，”居住在巴勒莫的艺术家、当代艺术之都计划的艺术总监安德烈亚·库苏马诺（Andrea Cusumano）在我们穿过镇中心时说道，“我几乎觉得这种说法是一种冒犯。首先，这是一个人们生活的小镇。58 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- Italy. 我认为我们不应该害怕将文化场所转化为日常生活场所。”

我们经过一根带有伸展翅膀的高大混凝土柱和一个巨大的石轮；一座生锈的金属雕塑；以及墙上一幅盯着我看的三只眼睛的壁画。最终，我们来到了广场系统（Sistema delle Piazze），这是五个相互连接的广场，延伸约四分之一英里。除了几棵棕榈树外，这里几乎没有遮荫处，而那些不再接通水管的喷泉里空空如也，偶尔只有个瘪了的足球。

建筑师弗兰科·普里尼（Franco Purini）和劳拉·特梅斯（Laura Thermes）将这些广场设计为会面之所，但此时这里空无一人。“当地人有点害怕在这里活动，”安德烈亚告诉我，“就好像这座城市缺失了一本使用说明书。”

许多人希望 2026 年的活动能为这些空间注入新生命。“科劳（Corrao）的梦想仍有实现的空间，”安德烈亚说，“它只需要适应我们的时代。”

就在我准备离开时，一群孩子骑着自行车穿过广场，笑声盈满了空间。整个下午以来，新吉贝利纳（Gibellina Nuova）巨大的广场第一次显得有了生气。在那一刻，我想起了安东内拉·科劳（Antonella Corrao）早些时候告诉我的话。当被问到吉贝利纳哪个纪念碑最重要时，她的父亲给出了一个简单的答案：“人类，”她说，“这从来不是关于艺术，而始终是关于人。”

旅行指南： 从英国枢纽机场直飞巴勒莫；吉贝利纳位于内陆，车程约一小时。Audley Travel 提供为期 12 天的西西里岛定制自驾之旅，每人起价 £4,650，包括机票、租车、B&B 住宿和游览项目。Persefone Travel 提供西西里岛私人定制的一日导览游。

gibellina2026.it

POGGIOREALE VECCHIA

距离吉贝利纳（Gibellina）仅 30 分钟路程，Poggioreale Vecchia 的废墟自 1968 年贝利切（Belice）地震以来一直凝固在时间之中。在经历了一项重大的再生计划后，这座小镇预计将于 2026 年晚些时候重新向游客开放，并计划将部分废弃建筑转化为文化空间。“曾经悲剧的象征，现在可以成为发展的源泉，”市长卡梅洛·帕莱尔莫（Carmelo Palermo）说道。首批重大开放项目之一是位于一座修复后的贵族住宅内的 Casa Agosta 多媒体博物馆，在那里，从瓦砾中回收的照片被转化为动画投影，展示地震前的日常生活。从那里开始，游客将能够漫步在街道上，那里精美的彩绘天花板、崩塌的宫殿以及从废弃窗户中生长出的无花果树，依然保持着 1968 年被遗弃时的模样。市长希望重新开放能吸引投资以修复更多建筑，从而创造就业机会并鼓励年轻一代留下来。“旅游只是第一步，”他说，“我们的梦想是让这座小镇恢复生机。” visitpoggioreale.it 从左至右：Orestiadi 基金会共同主席安东内拉·科劳（Antonella Corrao）；Orestiadi 基金会的地中海工艺博物馆；新吉贝利纳（Gibellina Nuova）互联的广场系统；意大利首个当代艺术之都计划的一部分——Consagra 剧院（Teatro di Consagra）内的展览。

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VITA HOMES

意式生活体验

尽在轻松之间。

一座位于意大利联合国教科文组织（UNESCO）保护的威尼托丘陵（Veneto Hills）的稀有住宅。自然环绕，世界触手可及。由意大利顶尖建筑师独立设计。从您抵达意大利的第一刻起，到所有权的每一个细节，一切都经过周到的安排。真正的奢华，就是无需担忧。

VITA HOMES.IT 预约私人咨询 info@vitahomes.it

VH --- Italy

喜欢吉贝利纳的氛围？不妨尝试...

普罗奇达岛（PROCIDA）：文化之选

当那不勒斯人想要在夏季周末逃离城市时，他们会将目光投向这座距离市区不到一小时轮渡航程的艺术之岛。这里是 1994 年意大利经典电影《邮差》（Il Postino）的主要拍摄地之一，并在 2022 年被评为意大利文化之都，至今仍保持着一种创意气息。最吸引人的或许是 Marina Corricella 渔村，那里糖果色的房屋沿山坡层叠而下。此外，Avalos 宫（Palazzo d'Avalos）是一座由 16 世纪宫殿及后来的监狱改造而成的建筑，现在设有当代艺术画廊。

埃尔巴岛（ELBA）：多样之选

虽然比西西里岛或撒丁岛小得多，但比其他任何意大利岛屿都大，埃尔巴岛是度假岛屿中的“金发姑娘”（恰到好处之选）。这里是拿破仑·波拿巴 1814 年的流放地，这座托斯卡纳的前哨站拥有两座由前皇帝建造的优雅别墅。岛上还有通往卡潘内山（Monte Capanne）的缆车，以及生产甜 passito 葡萄酒的葡萄园。这里的风向多变，当地人会根据风向选择海滩，在风向不同时分别前往 Sansone 海滩的平滑鹅卵石滩或 Cavoli 的金色沙滩。

法维尼亚纳岛（FAVIGNANA）：本土重塑之选

法维尼亚纳岛位于西西里岛西海岸，其绝美的 Cala Rossa 海滩吸引着夏季游客。但在旅游淡季，人们有机会深入了解丰富的当地传统，其中包括金枪鱼捕捞。Florio 综合体曾是地中海最大的金枪鱼渔场之一，现已被改造为一个时空隧道般的博物馆，展出 1970 年代的罐头盒、渔网以及其他曾用于 mattanza（金枪鱼收获）的物品。在场地的另一端，Camparia 是一个现代生活中心，设有当代艺术空间和餐厅。camparia.com

帕尔马里亚岛：静谧之选

帕尔马里亚岛（Palmaria）与利古里亚大陆近在咫尺，是拉斯佩齐亚群岛中最大且唯一可进入的岛屿，乘坐渡轮仅需五分钟即可抵达。尽管前往此处无需过多额外努力，但这里比附近的五渔村要安静得多。岛上的步道包括环岛路（Il Giro dell'Isola），这是一条绕岛一周、全长四英里的环形路线。建议逆时针行走；行程的终点将是俯瞰波托韦内雷镇（Portovenere）的壮丽景色，那里拥有意大利里维埃拉典型的彩色房屋。

AM 上图：科里切拉码头（Marina Corricella）是普罗奇达岛上一个色彩斑斓的渔村 图片来源：GETTY 2026年9月 61

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意大利

潜水研究员

在普利亚海岸附近，特雷米蒂群岛拥有一个由自然和考古宝藏组成的水下世界。当地的一位人士致力于保护这些宝藏。文字：ELENA LURAGHI

“看到那座悬崖了吗？就在那里，我们在水下 50 米处发现了黑珊瑚，”潜水教练 Adelmo Sorci 说道，他驾驶着充气艇穿过闪烁的鱼群。在柔和的晨光中，特雷米蒂群岛周围的海水如此透明，我觉得自己可以直接向下窥视，看到深海森林。但至少在今天，大海依然保守着它的秘密——这与该地区的特质十分契合。“这些是孤独的岛屿，”Adelmo 说，“一个属于自然的地方。”

我正随运营商 Marlin Tremiti 游览这个由五个岛屿组成的群岛，它位于普利亚海岸附近，是南亚得里亚海中意大利唯一的岛群。尽管规模微小——总陆地面积仅略多于一平方英里——但这里在近 40 年间一直被设为海洋保护区。仅凭面罩和呼吸管，就能观察到海绵、软体动物，以及鞍鱼、雀鲷、鲉鱼、 dusky grouper（暗色石斑鱼）等鱼类。在更深处，黑珊瑚点缀着海床。

“25 年前我第一次来这里潜水时，它们在地图上不过是个小点，甚至连意大利人都不知道，”Adelmo 在谈到这些岛屿时说道。现在，在夏季，这里富饶的水域吸引着来自普利亚海岸和邻近莫利塞地区的日游游客，以及约 2,500 名在此度过温暖月份的长期旅行者。“然后，到了九月中旬，所有人都离开了，宁静随之回归。”

Adelmo 留着被阳光漂白的发色，皮肤黝黑，是大约 400 名全年居民之一。他出生在意大利中部的马尔凯大区，但对潜水的热爱将他带到了圣多米诺（San Domino）——这里是特雷米蒂群岛的非正式首府，也是群岛中两个有人居住的哨所之一，大多数来自大陆的渡轮都在此停靠。在这里，他创立了 Marlin Tremiti，一家提供远足、课程以及景观船游的潜水中心。

我们环绕圣多米诺航行。首先到达的是 Baia dei Pagliai，那里有形状像干草堆的巍峨石灰岩。接着是 Cala degli Inglesi，蒸汽船 Lombardo 号于 1864 年在此沉没，该船曾由意大利将军朱塞佩·加里波第在助力意大利统一的军事行动期间指挥。最后是 Cala delle Rondinelle，因每年春天在此筑巢的燕子（意大利语为 rondini）而得名。

大海映照着白色悬崖，其间点缀着数十个洞穴。上方延伸着一片茂密的阿勒颇松林，扭曲的树干和树冠覆盖了整个岛屿。几栋粉刷成白色的房子若隐若现，其中包括已故的 Lucio Dalla 曾经拥有的避暑地。他是上世纪意大利最具影响力且最受喜爱的创作歌手之一，在特雷米蒂群岛的宁静和纯净自然中找到了灵感。

Adelmo 将我的注意力重新引向水下的美景。“这里就像一个露天实验室，”他说道，并指向一个标记着研究地点的浮标。Marlin Tremiti 的利润资助了一个科学研究部门——海洋实验室。与亚得里亚海的大部分地区一样，特雷米蒂海洋保护区的海床正面临缓慢的退化。波塞多尼亚（Posidonia）海草床——它们产生氧气、吸收 CO₂ 并为无数鱼类提供庇护——正受到重金属的威胁。与此同时，在距离海岸仅十余米处发现的水下考古遗址——从 2,000 年前的沉船到第二次世界大战的轰炸机——正日益容易受到腐蚀的影响。

岛屿原声带

卢西奥·达拉（Lucio Dalla）原籍意大利北部的博洛尼亚，他在青少年时期首次访问了特雷米蒂群岛，之后经常回到这里以远离公众关注。他在岛上创作了一些最著名的歌曲——《Piazza Grande》、《Come è Profondo il Mare》和《4 marzo 1943》，以及《Luna Matana》，这是一张以岛上最美丽的月牙形海湾之一命名的专辑。 62 HATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- 九月 2026 © 63 ---

位于奥尔蒂塞伊屋顶之上的迷人酒店

多洛米蒂山脉中的梦想之居 在 Alpenheim Charming Hotel & SPA，无论一年中的哪个时段，您都将在海拔 1236 米的加尔代纳山谷（Val Gardena）度过一个难忘的假期。您将体验到传统、现代需求、地中海意大利风情与南蒂罗尔根基的真实融合，共同构成一个独特的整体。这是一个为情侣、带孩子的家庭以及单身旅行者量身定制的，位于多洛米蒂山脉中心地带的特别度假体验。

电话：+39 0471 796515 info@alpenheim.it alpenheim.it

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意大利。

每天，阿德尔莫（Adelmo）及其地质学家和海洋生物学家团队都会收集数据并制定切实可行的解决方案。他们通过组织海底清理活动和举办夏季活动（如圣多米诺波西多尼亚节，该节日邀请研究人员、水下摄影师和其他专家进行演讲）来提高人们的意识。他们最新的计划是 Project 3DM / IT，即使用零影响材料生产的模块化结构。“一旦放置在海底，它们将促进海洋再生，起到人工鱼礁的作用，”阿德尔莫解释道，“我希望它们最终能在世界各地被复制。”

正是这种对大海的热爱将阿德尔莫带到了这里，也让特雷米蒂人年复一年地回到他们的家乡岛屿。“学校的匮乏迫使许多家庭搬到大陆，”我当天晚些时候遇到的年轻岛民恩里科·马索内（Enrico Massone）说道，他指向圣多米诺中心广场上的一群正在玩耍的孩子。广场很小，铺着白色地砖，设有长椅、棕榈树以及几家酒吧和餐厅所在的低矮建筑。“在非旅游季节这里生活并不容易。”在冬季，恩里科与妻子玛尔塔（Marta）以及他们四岁的儿子住在大陆上。但像许多特雷米蒂人一样，他会尽可能快且尽可能频繁地回来。在夏天，他驾驶自己的 Sagittario 号船带游客游览群岛。“这里是我们的根所在——或许我们的未来也在此，”他说，“这些岛屿，凭借其寥寥几处海滩，以及晚餐外出的热闹程度即为最高点的夜晚，拥有某种真正神奇的东西。”

如何前往：前往特雷米蒂群岛的门户包括阿布鲁佐省的佩斯卡拉（Pescara），那里有来自斯坦斯特机场的瑞安航空（Ryanair）直飞航班。从泰尔莫利（Termoli）出发的轮渡约 1 小时 15 分钟可抵达圣多米诺，而从佩斯卡拉乘坐火车前往泰尔莫利需 1 小时 15 分钟。Touring Club Italiano Villaggio Tremiti 度假村提供可入住四人的平房，成人全包一周住宿价格 €560 (£476) 起，包括乘船游览、浮潜和岛屿游等活动。

traghetti-tremiti.it villaggi.touringclub.it

从左起：圣尼古拉的防御村落；从城墙看向圣多米诺的景色 前几页，从最左侧起顺时针方向：阿德尔莫·索尔奇（Adelmo Sorci）在乘船游览；浮潜在特雷米蒂群岛很受欢迎；圣多米诺 Pagliai 悬崖顶部的景色；在圣多米诺的 Marlin Tremiti 总部检查生物样本；Marlin Tremiti 的研究部门——海洋实验室，致力于防止水下退化。

问答：RACHELE DI PALMA 谈圣尼古拉岛

这位出生于群岛的艺术史学家引导游客游览圣尼古拉岛（San Nicola），这是特雷米蒂群岛中的一座岛屿，在这里，历史与传说密不可分。

您对艺术和历史的热情源自哪里？ 我的祖母。她过去常给我讲交织着当地民俗的童话故事。讲故事成了我生命的一部分。

圣尼古拉岛是…… 一个流放之地。市政厅坐落在小朱莉娅（Julia the Younger）罗马别墅的遗址上，她是奥古斯都皇帝的孙女，于公元 8 年被流放到这里。紧邻其侧的是法西斯时期为政治异见人士建造的房屋。

主要景点是什么？ 位于岛屿最高点的防御村落，被城堡的围墙所环绕。这里拥有意大利唯一一座位于海中央的修道院。您可以参观其回廊和带有马赛克地板的教堂。

有没有安静的地方推荐？ 从岛屿的另一端，您可以望见皮亚诺萨岛（Pianosa），这是一个自然保护区，执行着意大利最严格的保护条例，包括禁止在距离其海岸线 500 米范围内航行。白天，它只是地平线上的一道模糊线条；夜晚，灯塔会显露它的位置。 通过在 Touring Club Italiano Villaggio Tremiti 住宿，可安排 Rachele 的导览服务。villaggi.touringclub.it

SEPTEMBER 2026 65

placeToBe

SCHWARZENSTEIN 高山奢华水疗度假村 / 南蒂罗尔

SKY SPA 成人专属： 无边际天空泳池 (23 m) . 热水按摩池 (8 m) . 天空桑拿 . 天空全景休息室 . 天空酒吧

SPA： 户外桑拿休息室 . 户外热水按摩池 . 8 个桑拿房 . 放松区 . 天然游泳池 . 家庭泳池 . 水上滑道 (60 m) . 无边际运动泳池 (25 m) . 美容活力中心

高山奢华水疗度假村 SCHWARZENSTEIN / FAM. ZIMMERHOFER 39030 Luttach . Dorfstraße 11 . 南蒂罗尔 . 多洛米蒂 . 意大利 电话 +39 0474 674 100 . hotel@schwarzenstein.com

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意大利。

喜欢特雷米蒂群岛的氛围？不妨尝试……

斯特龙博利岛：领略独特自然

在过去的两千多年里，斯特龙博利岛（Stromboli）一直笼罩在喷发出的薄雾之中，它是世界上少数几个持续活跃的火山之一。这座与火山同名的岛屿位于西西里岛北部的埃奥利群岛（Aeolian archipelago），仅有 500 名常住居民，山脚下的村庄在立方体形状的白色房屋中提供精品住宿。许多游客为了徒步路线而来，春季和秋季是最佳时机；认证导游可以带您进入原本受限的区域。或者，您可以选择日落巡航，在岛上的“火流”旁抛锚，让旅行者有机会在星空下观看炽热的岩石滚向大海。

庞扎岛：尽享航海之乐

意大利的一些岛屿最适合从水上欣赏，包括拉齐奥海岸外的庞廷群岛（Pontine Islands），那里遍布壮丽的岩壁和隐藏的洞穴。在庞扎岛（Ponza）——这里日益受到追求私密的高净值旅行者的青睐——月亮海滩（Chiaia di Luna）是一个完美的月牙形海滩，背景是 100 米高的白色岩石。由于人群拥挤，盛夏时节停泊可能较为困难，但如果在六月或九月通过 Sailogy 等运营商租赁带船长的游艇，您会发现这里安静得多。拥有自己的船只，您还可以访问帕尔马罗拉岛（Palmarola）等自然保护区；参观皮拉托洞穴（Grotte di Pilato）中凿入海岸线的隧道；以及附近文托泰内岛（Ventotene）上的罗马时代城镇波尔托韦基奥（Porto Vecchio）。

卡普赖亚岛（CAPRERA）之纯净海滩

撒丁岛东北部海域的整个马达莱纳群岛（Maddalena archipelago）都是一个受保护的国家公园——考虑到这里霓虹蓝的海水、被阳光漂白的岩壁和如糖粉般洁白的海岸，这并不奇怪。布德利岛（Budelli）以其淡粉色的沙滩而闻名，但禁止登岛。若想找个铺毛巾的地方，可以前往有许多家庭住宅的圣玛丽亚岛（Santa Maria），或者乘坐私人游艇前往原生态的斯帕尔吉岛（Spargi）。卡普赖亚岛通过一座 600 米长的桥梁与马达莱纳主岛相连，岛上有松林和电蓝色的小湾。若要参观卡拉科蒂乔（Cala Coticcio）和卡拉布里甘蒂纳（Cala Brigantina）等受保护的景点，您需要购买门票（每天限额 60 人），且在某些情况下需要一名认证的徒步导游。

图片：AWL IMAGES, GETTY 2026年9月 67

意大利。

规划您的行程

我应该什么时候去？

在避开旺季人群与避免错过景点之间需要寻找一个微妙的平衡；许多较小的岛屿在温暖月份之外几乎完全关闭，这很常见。请提前对目的地进行调研，确保轮渡在运行，且景点和餐厅在营业。同时检查天气模式，因为夏季热浪日益频繁，而冬季风暴可能会导致关键的轮渡连接被取消。

我如何抵达？

除了有各种航班往返的西西里岛和撒丁岛这两个主岛外，大多数目的地需通过仅限乘客的 aliscafo（水翼船）或较大的 traghetto（轮渡）抵达。全国各地的大型大陆港口服务于不同的岛群。通常，您可以从那不勒斯前往坎帕尼亚群岛和埃奥利群岛；从皮翁比诺（Piombino）或利沃诺（Livorno）前往托斯卡纳群岛；从安齐奥（Anzio）前往庞廷群岛；以及从泰尔莫利（Termoli）前往特雷米蒂群岛。

我如何在该地出行？

如果您想在撒丁岛、西西里岛和埃尔巴岛等较大岛屿上探索，租车是必须的。在高峰时段，非居民车辆可能会被禁止进入包括伊斯基亚岛（Ischia）在内的中型岛屿，这意味着您要么以更高的价格在岛上租车，要么乘坐（通常很便捷的）公共巴士网络。一些极小的岛屿几乎没有铺设道路——甚至完全没有——因此您需要依赖当地公共交通（无论是微型巴士还是驴子）或步行。在意大利，驾驶 40 马力以下的船只不需要船照；相关目的地有丰富的租赁选择。

我应该提前多久预订？

意大利国内旅游非常受欢迎，虽然某些岛屿对英国旅行者来说几乎不为人知，但它们可能是当地人的心头好。夏季高峰期极其繁忙，在像阿里库迪岛（Alicudi）这样住宿有限的微型岛屿上，您需要尽可能提前规划——最长可达一年。5 月或 9 月的平季日期所需的规划时间明显较少（四到六个月），如果您前往西西里岛和撒丁岛等较大岛屿，则只需提前几周。

谁能提供帮助？

专注于意大利的运营商如 Citalia 和 Italy Charme 为此处涵盖的许多岛屿提供定制行程。此外，还有几家专门从事较大岛屿旅游的公司，包括 Just Sardinia 和 The Sicilian Experience。在更偏远的岛屿上，您需要自行安排。

justsardinia.co.uk thesicilianexperience.co.uk

是否存在语言障碍？

虽然掌握一些意大利语短语总是礼貌的，但在伊斯基亚岛等高端旅游中心，您可以使用英语应付。在庞扎岛（Ponza）或埃尔巴岛等知名度中等的地点，您无需会意大利语即可办理酒店入住和点餐，但建议使用优秀的翻译软件来辅助沟通。在小型或非常偏远的岛屿上，预计几乎没有英语，且带有浓重的地区方言。

68 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片 GETTY

Belvita

领先的健康酒店 南蒂罗尔（SÜDTIROL）

体验过非凡之境吗？走进 Belvita —— 一个精心策划的顶级健康酒店系列，坐落于意大利阿尔卑斯山脉和多洛米蒂山脉。从伦敦盖特威克机场直飞博尔扎诺即可轻松抵达。belvita.it brondiselle.com / 照片：Belvita Hotel Hotel Habanero, London, O3P, Switzerland. Sarita.com

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巡航于绝美的夏威夷群岛，随后飞往拉斯维加斯探索犹他州的“壮丽五大”国家公园，最后乘坐 景观列车前往丹佛。

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价格为每人基于双人间 / 大床房共享的价格，且仅适用于选定的 ~10 月和 ^4 月出发日期。酒店、邮轮、行程和航班价格为动态价格，根据消费者需求和旅行季节实时波动。优惠视供应情况而定，且可能适用相关限制。价格在 26 年 7 月 7 日印刷时准确无误。

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古道

丝绸之路或许如今已成记忆，但其影响依然在中亚的人民之中延续。沿着古代商人与朝圣者的足迹在乌兹别克斯坦展开旅程，人们可以窥见那些曾经沿着这条传奇贸易路线流传的艺术传统、故事以及激进的宗教思想。文字：SAM KEMP。摄影：AISHA NAZAR 2026年9月 ■ 73

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乌兹别克斯坦。

这些悬崖中潜伏着幽灵。我用手掌抚摸着风化的岩石，跟随向导 Sherzod Norbekov 攀爬，穿过芬芳的薄荷和破碎的岩石，直到最后，我们到达一个山谷壁被侵蚀而露出的一组闪亮面板的地方。在那里，我看到了我的幻影——两个纤细的身影凝固在祭祀之舞中，在被刻在岩石上的数千年后依然处于狂喜状态。而且他们并不孤单。我看得越近，显现出的生命就越多：一头准备被宰杀的祭祀公牛；一群野山羊；一只早已灭绝的原牛，周围散布着弓箭手。

从左上角起顺时针方向：Sherzod Norbekov 和 Ali Bazarov 正在辨认草药；萨尔米什峡谷（Sarmish Gorge）拥有约 1万,000 幅古代岩画；这个山谷长期以来一直是游牧民族的走廊；三姐妹在萨尔米什峡谷坐下来吃午餐。

前几页从左起：布哈拉卡隆清真寺（Kalon Mosque）的中央庭院；努拉陶（Nuratau）牧羊人 Shavkat Odilov 风化的双手。

春天来到了乌兹别克斯坦，这是这些史前形态自被刻在萨尔米什峡谷的墙壁上以来所见证的数千个春天之一。这座巨大的石头迷宫由萨尔米什河在扎拉夫尚谷（Zarafshan Valley）与克孜勒库姆沙漠（Kyzylkum Desert）之间冲刷而成，是一个数千年来人畜往来的肥沃走廊，这里收藏了 1万,000 幅岩画。其墙壁上留下了几乎每一个经过这片土地的人群的痕迹，其中最古老的刻画可追溯到公元前 7000 年左右。

“中亚的其他地方要么是沙漠，要么是山脉或草原。乌兹别克斯坦是唯一人们可以定居的地方，”Sherzod 说，抬起他宽阔且红润的双颊，“波斯人、蒙古人、阿拉伯人，来自伊朗的粟特商人——他们都留下了某些东西。”

几个世纪以来，乌兹别克斯坦及其中亚邻国（哈萨克斯坦、吉尔吉斯斯坦、塔吉克斯坦、阿富汗和土库曼斯坦）处于古代世界的中心。这里是文明的十字路口，人们的往来诞生了复杂的传说、传统和精神信仰之网，并延续至今。如果没有丝绸之路，这一切流动都不可能实现——那张巨大的、错综复杂的贸易路线网，让农产品、贵重商品和激进的思想在数千年间流向整个欧亚大陆。

在接下来的几天里，我将在这条道路上两个最伟大的绿洲城镇之间旅行：布哈拉和向东 140 英里的传奇之城撒马尔罕，我将沿着牧羊人的小径，在徒步穿越部分荒野的努拉陶山脉时，尝试揭开古老的商队路线。作为天山山脉向西延伸的一段，其山谷曾

74 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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1. 2017年，公司与上海浦东发展银行股份有限公司签订了《关于使用部分闲置募集资金进行现金管理的协议》。

乌兹别克斯坦。

充当了跨洲商人向东前往阿富汗和印度的门户。

与我同行的是 Sherzod，他是 Nuratau Travel 的创始人，一家当地的探险旅游运营商。他经营着徒步和骑马之旅，将该地区一些最偏远的社区连接在一起，夜晚则住在安静的家庭旅馆中。他本人就出生在 Nuratau 山脉，这解释了为什么当我们到达 Sarmish 峡谷顶端，看到山麓从草原中升起时，他的脸上会露出那样喜悦的神情。在遥远的远方，最高的一座山峰像一座巨大的、扭曲的堡垒。 “它叫 Hayatbashi，”他说道，露出的笑容让他的脸庞像风景一样布满了褶皱。 “它的意思是‘生命的开始’。”

知识之源

我们的旅程提前一天在布哈拉开始。这里曾是丝绸之路上的主要贸易枢纽，其交流文化使新思想得以繁荣，这座蜂蜜色调的城市在几个世纪里一直是伊斯兰艺术和文化的重大源泉。在这里，我前往 Hamam Bozori Kord 洗浴，这是一座 15 世纪的浴室，中世纪的每位旅行者在进入这座城市时都会在这里经历蒸汽熏蒸、搓澡和捶打。在 30 分钟的时间里，我的服务员——一个看起来有些愤愤不平的乌兹别克青少年——将我的手臂折叠，掰响我的脚趾，并在某一时刻将肘部如此用力地顶入我的脊柱，以至于我觉得一颗磨牙都松动了。这与其说是按摩，不如说是《WWE SmackDown》的一集，只不过多了蒸汽和赤裸的俄罗斯商人。当我步入这座曾经买卖丝绸之路财富的古城时，我感觉自己因为极致的洁净而几乎在飘浮。漫步在砖砌小巷的迷宫中，我对每一个细节都敏锐地感知着：乐器制作者用长颈 dutor 鲁特琴拨弄着民谣旋律；淡紫色头顶的鸽子在桑树中咕咕叫；在卡隆清真寺（Kalon Mosque）下方啜饮藏红花茶的男子们口中流出乌兹别克语、塔吉克语和亚美尼亚语——清真寺闪烁的圆顶宛如一抹青色之火。我如此沉浸其中，以至于在 Markaziy Bozor（“中央市场”）边缘与当地导游 Nilufar Nariddova 见面时几乎撞到了她，她的头发被紧紧地扎成一个坚硬的马尾。当我们穿梭在堆满干果、奶酪、织物和点缀着花瓣的茶叶摊位之间时，她急于消除我可能携带的任何先入之见。“‘丝绸之路’这个名字是在 19 世纪才被创造出来的，”她解释道，“在那之前，人们根据道路运输的货物来称呼单条道路。有丝绸之路、玉石之路、青金石之路等等。它们运载着珍贵的货物，而这一切最终都汇聚于此。”对于 Nilufar 来说，布哈拉是一颗巨大且闪耀的宝石。对我而言，它更像一座花园，每一块闪光的瓷砖上都绘有交织的野花图案。而且就像每座花园一样，许多东西隐藏在表面之下，在 Magoki Attori 清真寺蜂蜜般的阴影中，我被提醒了这一点。这可能是这座城市现存最古老的清真寺，但据传它坐落在一座古代佛教神庙的遗址上。“布哈拉位于丝绸之路的交汇点，因此来自古代世界各地的人都来到这里，”Nilufar 在清真寺破旧的门廊下低头走过时解释道，“这使得商品、艺术形式和思想得以交流。人们认为布哈拉的名字源自古粟特语中‘知识之源’一词是有原因的。”

当夕阳将触角延伸至布哈拉马赛克瓷砖铺就的街道上时，Nilufar 带我去见一位致力于传承这些知识的当地艺术家。在一扇雕刻的桑木门后，我们在 Hoopoe 艺术画廊找到了微型画大师 Rafael Toshev 坐在他的办公桌前。在他周围，墙上挂着他最新的作品：极其复杂的头戴涡卷巾的学者肖像、星空下进入布哈拉的商队，以及在石榴园中漫步的先知——所有这些都是在乳白色的丝纸上纯手工绘制的。他递给我一杯甜甜的冒汽茶，讲述了这种艺术形式悠久的历史：讲述了 9 世纪这里曾存在的画派，以及早期的穆斯林统治者如何因为禁止偶像崇拜而摧毁了布哈拉中所有对人类生命的描绘。“在苏联时期，微型画再次受到压制，因为它包含大量的宗教意识形态，”他解释道，“我是由我的叔叔们教导的，在 1991 年我们获得独立后，他们得到了在这里开设学校的机会。”

布哈拉细密画艺术的根源更为深远，它起源于中国，随后沿着丝绸之路流入伊朗。从那里进入中亚，并在沿途吸收了多种影响。Rafael 的作品呼应了布哈拉画派的风格——其特点是使用了受该市流动人口终身面对的荒野景观所启发的色调。“随着这种艺术的传播，它吸收了所经过之地的特征，”他解释道，“人们的传统，以及绿洲和沙漠的色彩。”

第二天早晨，我发现自己被同样的色彩所包围。Sherzod 和我早早出发，穿过工业规模的杏园，进入一片空旷的荒野，那里牙齿镶金的妇女们正从饼干棕色的土地上采摘洋甘菊。我们走得越高，就越像是回到了过去；金矿和天然气管道逐渐被鼠尾草绿的山丘取代，成群的哈萨克马像椋鸟一样盘旋聚集。

从左上角起顺时针方向：布哈拉的 Markaziy Bozor 市场里堆满了当地的水果、面包、奶酪和甜点；Magoki Attori 清真寺坐落在古代佛教圣地原址上；Hoopoe 艺术画廊的 Rafael Toshev；Toqi Sarrafon 的入口，它是布哈拉中世纪贸易穹顶建筑之一。

2026年9月 / 77

乌兹别克斯坦。

当我们开始徒步穿越 Nuratau 山脉，前往我们的第一个民宿时，太阳已经低垂。离开汽车后，我们沿着一条狭窄的牧羊人小径深入 Kadvan 谷，涉过河流，在点缀着童话般蘑菇的森林中蹒跚而行，直到最后，我们遇到了一条更古老、更狭窄的道路。

“现在到了最困难的部分，”Sherzod 告诉我，他引导我沿着一条向汹涌河流倾斜的岩带前行。我紧紧抓住任何能防止我滑入湍流的东西，双手双脚死死抠住岩壁，拼命地横向挪动，最终来到一片高耸的悬崖平台，岩壁上刻着褪色的古兰经经文，那是前往撒马尔罕而经过此谷的阿拉伯商人留下的。

“这是好运的寄语，”Sherzod 后来告诉我，“送给任何行走在同一条路上的旅人。”

木与火之乡

次日早晨，我们离开在 Sentob 的民宿，开始前往 Majerum 的七英里徒步之旅。前一天斑驳的天空在夜间已然放晴，山峦在粉蓝色的天空映衬下显得轮廓分明。微风拂过果园，就在我们前方，一名牧羊人正驱赶着他那花色斑斓的羊群穿过一座废弃定居点的遗址。在 20 世纪 50 年代，这些社区被苏联政府强制迁移，驱赶至低洼的棉花种植区。许多村庄（其中一些可追溯至公元前 3 世纪）被遗弃并逐渐坍塌。这仅仅是苏联重塑这些土地物理与文化结构的一种方式，此前他们已经按照民族界限划分了中亚，打击宗教表达，并为了农业生产而改变河流走向。

“我在上学的时候，只说俄语，”谢尔佐德（Sherzod）在谈到那个时期时说道，他解释了塔吉克语、乌兹别克语和其他当地语言是如何只能在私下里使用，许多当地传统也是如此。他从口袋里掏出手机，给我看一张色调深褐的照片，照片中一名穿着制服的男子，在点缀着闪亮勋章的西装外套上方，是一张面色蜡黄的脸。“我的父亲，”他解释道，“他一生都说自己在军队工作。在他去世前，他透露自己是克格勃（KGB）。俄罗斯的影响无处不在。”

这片景观本身也隐藏着秘密。我们沿着点缀着蜜甜山楂树的山丘前行，直到来到一座覆盖着地衣的巨岩前。这是一座古老的琐罗亚斯德教（Zoroastrian）天葬塔（dakhma）——这是伊朗先知琐罗亚斯德（约公元前 700-600 年）的追随者将死者留在那里由野生动物吞噬的高台祭坛之一。“这完全是为了崇拜元素：土、风、水、火，”他解释道，“这就是为什么他们不埋葬死者，为了避免污染土壤。”

琐罗亚斯德教被广泛认为是世界上第一个一神论宗教，曾是乌兹别克斯坦的主导信仰体系，其火庙曾是丝绸之路上的关键节点。“关于它的记忆依然存在，”谢尔佐德告诉我，“我们的历法是琐罗亚斯德历，而且在这里的山区，新郎新娘在结婚前仍会围绕火堆起舞以净化自己。”

火崇拜并非唯一扎根于这些山丘的古老信仰。抵达 Majerum 后，我们在当地的一家民宿稍作停留，在一家人果园中点缀着花朵的高草丛中，吃了几碗肉面炖汤。在这里，谢尔佐德的一位老友加入了我们：山地向导阿里·巴扎罗夫（Ali Bazarov），他的一生都在探索乌兹别克斯坦最高的地方，面容如皮革般粗糙。用餐后，他喝干了茶，嚼掉了留在杯底浸泡的干杏，然后引导我们穿过村庄，来到一条被桦树和柳树环绕、乱石遍布的溪流边。“当地人来这里许愿，”他平实地说道，“他们用白布系住树枝。这是一种异教信仰，而非宗教。”

（从左起）：Sayyod 村外阳光斑驳的花园；在 Majerum 的民宿享用午餐，这里的房屋被果树环绕。

“现在到了困难的部分，”谢尔佐德告诉我，他引导我沿着一条向奔腾河流倾斜的岩带前行。我紧紧抓住任何能防止我滑入湍流的东西，双脚蹬在墙上，拼命地挪动，最终登上了一处刻有古兰经经文的悬崖廊道。

78 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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想要一些空间？在冰岛的 FJARA 寻找它

北纬 65° 59' 22.9" 西经 17° 38' 46.2"

重返冰岛 旅行

这是邀请您前往冰岛寻找自我的邀请函。您现在就可以开启这段奥德赛之旅。在规划您的冰岛冒险并向北进发时，请务必将这片僻静的海滩纳入行程。这里虽不为人所知，但却是一个美丽且宁静的地方。照片中的人物是摄影师 Halldorn Baumundtir 的女儿，也是“重返冰岛”项目负责人 Robert Finn 的童年好友，本刊在实地拍摄了她的照片。我们希望在提供坐标的同时，为您带来一份心意与个人历史。摄影：HK Bjarnnabajle

fjara / 名词，阴性（复数 fjarnt） 1. 退潮；低潮时露出的滩涂。 2. 动词 退潮（指海水）。词源：古诺斯语；与法罗语 fjara、挪威语 fjore 同源。

sal / saʊːl / 名词，阴性（亦作 sala） 1. 精神，心智，灵魂；非物质的本质。词源：古英语-sáwol；与 soul 同源。与 sær（海洋）相关，人们认为灵魂在生前和死后都居住在水中。

B T I T R A V E L . I S ---

乌兹别克斯坦。

我们很快见到了森林中的“许愿者”：一棵扭曲的杜松，高度可达 20 米或更高，其开裂的枝干如此宽阔，以至于当地人能像在林荫大道上一样在上面漫步。如果传说属实，这棵树在 13 世纪成吉思汗的军队横扫这片土地时就已经屹立于此，是由亚历山大大帝在与波斯的战争期间由士兵种植的。

“没人能确定它具体有多少岁，”Sherzod 在与我们一同沿着一根低垂的枝干散步时反驳道，“但我们仍然拥有一些民歌和古老的片段，其中点名提到了它。”

如果说有谁可能记得这些歌曲，那一定是 87 岁的 Husniya Tojieva。她一生大部分时间是一名牧羊女，她是乌兹别克斯坦 bayt 音乐的活百科全书：这些民谣以扭曲且忧郁的音阶演唱，很可能是由来自波斯的游牧民族传唱至此。

结束了一天的徒步，我们在位于 Hayat 的 Bosorov 一家的民宿共进晚餐。我们发现主人 Asal、Tugaloy 和 Shodmon 正围在一个木火炉旁，目光紧盯着一大盘炖煮中的 plov：这是一种传统的抓饭，由葡萄干、胡萝卜和嫩牛肉块分层铺就。

“炖一整天效果最好，”Sherzod 说，饥渴地盯着那些肉。

太阳刚刚开始下山，Husniya 和她的音乐伙伴 Bizorgul Nazarova 以及 Gul Qozoqova 便大步走进 Bosorov 家的花园。她们从头到脚裹在层层花纹丝绸之中，在炉火的明火上加热 doyra 手鼓的鼓皮，然后带着一壶茶坐在杏树下。

我加入她们，从碗里拈起干白桑葚，而 Husniya 一首接一首地吟唱着歌曲。

“它们来自内心深处，”她说，“我的父亲曾驱羊穿过这些山脉，当我跟随他时，我们会一起唱这些歌。我一遍又一遍地重复，直到它们变得完美。”

它们确实完美——而 Husniya 选择记住它们，使之变得更加完美。

就在我们准备坐下来吃晚餐之前，我问她是否认为在她不再能吟唱这些歌曲时，人们仍然会传唱它们。

“它们已经传承了数百年，甚至数千年，”她回答道，“我的父亲将它们传给了我，而在吟唱它们时，我知道我已经将它们传给了其他人。”

通往撒马尔罕之路

早晨，由于前一晚为 Asal 的厨艺举杯庆祝而仍感昏昏沉沉，Sherzod 和我在桑树下共进早餐，桌上摆满了果酱、面包、鸡蛋、蜂蜜蛋糕和填入薄荷的 somsa 馅饼。

“好几个月没睡得这么好了，”Sherzod 呻吟道，眼睛还肿着，“我想伏特加起作用了。”

这倒是件好事，因为开车去撒马尔罕的路途遥远。一天后，当我们终于抵达这座城市，努拉陶（Nuratau）最后的一抹蓝色山脉已远在身后，我们发现这里被阳光漂白的街道上弥漫着浓浓的雪松木和烘焙面团的香气。

到上午 10 点，大多数面包店已经结束了一天的工作，但 Alisher Nonlari 除外，在达到每日配额之前，它仍有数小时的烘焙时间。三千个面包——不多也不少。

在面包店剥落的刷白墙壁后面，我们发现一排木火坦杜尔（tandoor）烤炉，像通往地府的大门一样闪烁着红光。在隔壁充满面粉的房间里，十几个学徒正在将浅色的面团揉成整齐的小堆。一旦完成，发酵好的面包就被送到主面包师手中，他们将面包拍在坦杜尔烤炉的内壁上，纵身潜入那片烈焰之中。

我与其中最冷漠的一位——Suhrob Davrano 对视，他的浓眉依然浓密。

“如果你在其他任何地方烤这种面包，味道都不会一样，”他说着，用缠在头上的 T 恤擦拭着发红且起水泡的脸。

Suhrob 是这里资历最深的面包师之一，因此他极力守护这座城市最传奇的食品——尤其是因为撒马尔罕面包是 Babur 的最爱，这位帖木儿王朝的国王离开了撒马尔罕，在印度建立了莫卧儿王朝。

“传说当 Babur 到达德里时，他要求从撒马尔罕请一位主面包师，”他告诉我，“他们带来了坦杜尔烤炉和技术，但无法重现面包的味道。因为唯一一件他无法带来的是撒马尔罕的空气。”

他拿出一瓶水，将其洒在变褐的面包上。“不过说真的，秘密在于水。”

我并不感到惊讶。毕竟，这是一座水拥有超自然力量的城市。

离开酷热，我们与当地导游 Khilola Abdulayeva 会合，出发寻找撒马尔罕最神圣的泉水。我们在但以理之墓（Tomb of Daniel）旁找到了它，基督徒、犹太教徒和穆斯林朝圣者都聚集在这里，在旧约先知的遗物前祈祷、饮水并表达敬意。据称这些遗物在 14 世纪从伊朗城市苏萨（Susa）被带到这里，随后被安葬在一个 13 米高的石棺中，旨在防止盗墓者。

“这个地方的能量非常强，”当我们靠近泉水时，Khilola 说，“人们说在这里你离上帝更近，他能更清晰地听到你的声音，而且喝一口这口泉水可以治愈所有疾病。”

我捧起一把清凉的水，深饮一口。就在这时，伊玛目开始了一段婉转、悦耳的祈祷——这像是一场咒语，让一切都静止了：嘈杂的人声、鸽子，以及开心果树间的风。

突然，一种曾在萨尔米什峡谷（Sarmish Gorge）席卷我的感觉再次袭来：那种被某种极其古老的东西注视着的感觉。

我问 Khilola，在她居住撒马尔罕的这些年里，是否曾有过类似的感觉。

她给了我一个心领神会的微笑。

“如果不了解我们的过去，我们就无法了解我们的现在。而如果不了解我们的现在，我们就无法了解我们的未来。”

在这片古人从未远离的土地上，我能看出这句话的价值。■

就在这时，伊玛目开始了一段婉转、悦耳的祈祷——这像是一场咒语，让一切都静止了：嘈杂的人声、鸽子，以及开心果树间的风

从左起：在撒马尔罕，没有这种传奇面包的餐桌是不完整的；古里-艾米尔（Gur-e-Amir）的华丽内部，这里是撒马尔罕中世纪统治者帖木儿的陵墓

SEPTEMBER 2026 81

乌兹别克斯坦

从左至右：靠近丹尼尔之墓，撒马尔罕的沙希津达（Shah-i-Zinda）死者之城据传是先知穆罕默德的堂兄古塔姆·伊本·阿巴斯（Gutham ibn Abbas）的安息之地；撒马尔罕西约布巴佐里（Siyob Bozori）市场的核桃、糖花生和其他甜点

实用指南

如何抵达与出行

土耳其航空（Turkish Airlines）提供从英国经伊斯坦布尔飞往布哈拉和撒马尔罕的航班。turkishairlines.com 平均飞行时间：10-14小时。

最佳旅行时间

3月至6月期间最为理想，尤其是如果您想看到群山最葱郁的景象。将抵达时间定在3月21日左右，您可能会体验到纳吾鲁兹节（Navruz），这是一个标志着春分的古老琐罗亚斯德教节日。如果您渴望品尝最顶级的时令食材，请在9月或10月访问，此时气温在21℃至30℃之间波动。

推荐阅读

彼得·弗兰科潘（Peter Frankopan）所著的《丝绸之路：一部全新的世界史》（The Silk Roads: A New History of the World，£16.99）揭示了中亚几个世纪以来强大的影响力。

行程建议

Nuratau Travel 提供一个为期11天的徒步之旅，将塔什干、撒马尔罕和布哈拉等城市的游览与在努拉陶山脉（Nuratau Mountains）之间村庄徒步的时光相结合。费用每人£1,295起，包括酒店和民宿住宿、餐饮、机场接送、导游服务以及所有境内交通。nuratau.com

82 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

Geärrannan Blackhouse Village – 刘易斯岛

下一站去哪？ 3

在 calmac.co.uk 预订您的海岛冒险之旅。

生存的胃口

文字：AMELIA DUGGAN。摄影：KERRY MURRAY

在亚速尔群岛，长期以来的孤立状态要求人们必须具备强大的生存能力。在这些遥远的大西洋岛屿上，一代又一代的农民、渔民和酿酒师将海上贸易、当地知识以及肥沃的火山景观，转化为欧洲最独特的饮食文化之一。

“不久前，这还被认为是岛上最贫穷的人吃的食物。现在，它成了美味佳肴，”我的导游若泽·佩德罗·夸德罗斯（José Pedro Quadros）说道。此时，一锅滋滋作响的帽壳螺（当地语言称为 lapas）被端上我们的午餐桌，散发出浓郁的大蒜和欧芹香气。“秘密成分是一抹 pimenta da terra —— 一种仅在亚速尔群岛生产的盐渍红椒酱，”我们的服务员透露道。

这个黑发、身材瘦长的男人干脆地自我介绍叫布鲁诺（Bruno），他是玛丽亚·埃斯皮诺拉（Maria Espinola）的儿子，后者在四十年的时间里，将位于圣若热岛（São Jorge island）南岸的 Os Amigos 餐厅变成了当地的一家名店。

我们将餐巾塞进衣领，若泽和我小心地将金色的软体动物从蜷曲的半壳中取出，在品尝那完美、带有黄油味且咸鲜的肉质之间，用大块白面包蘸取油腻的酱汁。

在森林高原徒步、饮用泉水并在玄武岩环绕的泻湖中游泳的一个上午之后，我感到饥肠辘辘。而我那位身材魁梧、性格开朗的当地导游将我带到了这家热闹的传统餐厅，这里提供一种若泽认为在这一荒野且人口稀少的群岛中维持生活的秘诀：良好的陪伴和丰盛的当地农产品。

人们穿着周日最好的衣服，从附近的教堂走来，点一些简单的新鲜多汁的大眼金枪鱼拼盘或仍带血色的牛排。我被告知，这些 lapas 是当地潜水员当天早晨采集的 —— 用一把锋利且熟练的刀将其从岩石上巧妙地撬下来。虽然工作艰苦且产量低，但岛民们早已习惯。

亚速尔群岛由葡萄牙人在15世纪定居，由九个肥沃且仍在形成中的火山岛组成，它们漂浮在大西洋中，距离欧洲海岸900英里 —— 是船只从亚洲和美洲返回时的理想停靠点。

“几个世纪的海上贸易用香料和作物扩充了我们的储藏室，但孤立和有限的基础设施也使我们的食物具有微区域性 —— 食谱和传统因岛而异，甚至因村而异，”若泽在吃甜点时解释道 —— 那是一份极其丝滑的烤法兰（flan），由圣若热岛上数量庞大的牧场放养奶牛所产的牛奶制成。“我们一直必须自给自足，必须聪明地利用手头现有的资源。我们是葡萄牙人，但我们离里斯本很远。”

咖啡、曲奇与浓郁牛奶

这种亚速尔群岛的独创精神在沿海的维梅斯（Vimes）得到了充分展现。这是一个质朴的村庄，由矗立在 fajã（一种由古代山体滑坡形成的平台）之上的醒目深色石屋组成。在环绕着圣若热岛（São Jorge）如龙脊般山脊的约 70 个此类难以抵达的露头中，维梅斯便是其中之一。在这里，努内斯（Nunes）家族打破了咖啡种植的常规——通常咖啡种植在海拔 200 到 2,000 米之间——而他们则在自家咖啡馆 Café Nunes 周围的海平面果园中收获阿拉比卡咖啡豆。“大西洋和果树赋予了咖啡豆某种特别的东西，”马里奥·努内斯（Mario Nunes）在带我参观他的家乡时说道。他时不时开些小玩笑，这种风格我在岛上的其他地方也见过，与亚速尔人坚韧刻板的名声截然不同。在厨房里，他身材娇小的母亲阿尔齐拉（Alzira）正用一个大锅烘烤阳光晒干且手工脱壳的咖啡豆。

从左上角起顺时针方向：圣若热岛上的 Faja dos Vimes 村，Café Nunes 的所在地；咖啡馆收获的阿拉比卡咖啡豆，此处可见其在阳光下晾晒；牛群在圣若热岛的山坡上吃草；Os Amigos 餐厅的一盘新鲜帽壳螺。

前页：徒步旅行者开辟了一条前往圣米格尔岛（São Miguel）塞特西达德（Sete Cidades）的小径。

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“我们是坚韧的人。只要有奶喝，有肉吃，有海捕鱼，我们就比很多人过得好。”从左上角起顺时针方向依次为：阿尔齐拉·努内斯（Alzira Nunes）在厨房烘焙咖啡豆；圣若热岛（São Jorge）的 Fajã do Ouvidor 熔岩地；Dos Lourais 乳业合作社的弗里西安牛；从皮科岛（Pico）亚速尔葡萄酒公司（Azores Wine Company）酒店套房看到的海洋景色。

天然油脂赋予了咖啡内容物一种巧克力般的光泽。我想把这种麦芽和坚果的香气装进瓶子里，每天在这样的气味中醒来。“就像亚速尔群岛的一切一样，咖啡是随着移民而来的——很可能是在 18 世纪末从巴西传入的，”马里奥（Mario）说道。“我们不是欧洲唯一的咖啡种植者，但我认为我们是最好的——而且你只能在这里喝到我们的咖啡。”

在咖啡馆的露台上，向南眺望波光粼粼的海峡，对面是邻近皮科岛上高达 2,351 米的层状火山。浓缩咖啡与香气四溢、呈马蹄形的 espécies 饼干一同端上桌，这种饼干由茴香和肉桂面团制成——其配方可追溯到第一批香料船抵达之时。这种组合简直是绝妙的——当我将甜饼干浸入浓郁的黑咖啡中，在阳光下啜饮，观察着海洋那如呼吸般起伏变幻的波光时，咖啡的苦味中和了饼干的甜。

“这里的生活节奏很慢——这很适合我们，”在告别之前，若泽（José）说道。“我们经常开玩笑说，我们比世界其他地方落后了 50 年，但当我看到当今世界发生的事情时，我觉得这也许并非坏事。”

当我黄昏时分在草场见到第三代农民埃马努埃尔·丰特斯（Emanuel Fontes）时，他也表达了同样的感受。这里位于崎岖蜿蜒的海岸线向北五英里处，他在这里给心爱的荷斯坦-弗里西安牛挤奶。这位 Dos Lourais 乳业合作社（圣若热岛上三家此类工厂之一）的年轻主席肩膀宽阔，留着红褐色胡须，显得英姿飒爽。

“我花了很多年时间去了解每头牛，慢慢赢得它们的信任。每头牛都有不同的性格，就像人一样。一旦它们信任你，就会永远信任你，”在等待三十多头牛从低地牧场走到挤奶站时，他轻声说道。“我不会催促它们；快乐的牛才能产出最好的奶。”

埃马努埃尔向旅行者揭秘了该岛最著名的出口产品——圣若热奶酪（São Jorge cheese）的部分制作过程。这种奶酪自 1986 年起获得 DOP（原产地名称保护）认证，但其历史可追溯到 15 世纪的佛兰德斯移民时期。我在旅程早些时候与若泽一起品尝过——有熟成四个月的，口感温和、带有黄油味，几乎可以像抹酱一样涂开；也有熟成 24 个月的，口感更干、更浓郁且带有胡椒味。

“火山土壤、海盐、我们的草药以及湿度——所有这些在奶酪成熟过程中都增加了其复杂性，”埃马努埃尔解释道，此时第一批牛抵达了，乳房摇晃，将粗糙的侧腹交给埃马努埃尔抚摸。“而且我们使用的是传统菌种和生牛奶。我每天带五升回家——这就是我成长过程中喝的奶。”

当牛群中的领头牛——一只名叫马奎萨（Marquesa）的巨大且脾气古怪的生物终于屈尊抵达时，工作开始了。埃马努埃尔启动了嘈杂的发电机，开始将吸管固定在乳头上，将新鲜牛奶注入高金属桶中。他递给我一个小瓶子让我尝试。它带有淡淡的干草味，在从海洋吹来的凉风中温暖了我的手掌，此时的海水在深绿色的田野拼图之外闪烁着光芒。一小口变成了大口吞咽，直到瓶子见底——它在舌尖上有着天堂般的甜美与浓郁，带来了一种出乎意料的慰藉感。

“今年，很多事情都不利于我们。我可能不得不减少我的牛群，”在照顾完最后一头牛后，他轻声说道。由于持续的中东冲突，化肥成本上涨；由于关税影响，向美国的奶酪销售额下降；而瑞安航空（Ryanair）因高昂的机场费用削减了前往亚速尔群岛的航线，这意味着游客减少了数十万。看来，即使是偏远的岛屿也无法在地理政治的影响下独善其身。“但我们是坚强的人。只要我们有牛奶喝，有牛肉吃，有大海可以捕鱼，我们就比许多人过得好。” 2026 89 --- 90 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- 亚速尔群岛。

火山葡萄栽培

当我在皮科岛（Pico）南部的波涛汹涌的海面上时，我才充分感受到在亚速尔群岛（Azores）生活所需的坚韧。我参加了由当地运营商 Espaço Talassa 组织的开放式 R1B 船观鲸之旅。在这里，瓶鼻海豚群在波浪中穿梭，抹香鲸从深海海沟升起哺育幼崽，向晨间的空气中喷出巨大的水柱，目的地展现出一种令人屏息且无可比拟的野性。沿岸漆黑的熔岩流、皮科岛沉睡火山的锥形山顶，以及向美洲方向延伸、毫无遮挡的广阔地平线——这一切似乎对人类生命表现出一种令人心惊的漠然。

“120 多年以来，直到 1989 年，捕鲸业一直是皮科岛的主要产业——这是在 19 世纪瘟疫摧毁了葡萄园和酿酒业之后扎根的，”英国海洋生物学家贝基·米利根（Becky Milligan）解释道，她努力在头顶盘旋喧闹的剪水燕鸥声中让自己被听见。她透露，在原捕鲸小镇拉热斯-杜-皮科（Lajes do Pico）周围，全球 90 种鲸类中近三分之一会经过这里如网般分布在海底的营养丰富峡谷。 “现在我们使用同样的瞭望塔和追踪技术来研究它们。物种的恢复速度很慢，但我们看到了希望。”

近年来，皮科岛的葡萄栽培也经历了显著的转型。穿过皮科岛郁郁葱葱且崎岖的心脏地带，我向西北方向行驶 45 分钟，到达位于岛屿西北端亚速尔葡萄酒公司（Azores Wine Company）。在这里，充满魅力的联合创始人费利佩·罗查（Felipe Rocha）用迷人的微笑和有力的握手迎接了我。这家酒庄于 2021 年开业，配有一家餐厅和六间客房——像一座华丽的邦德秘密基地，到处是全景玻璃窗和工业时尚风的装饰，坐落在由 currais（干石墙）组成的黑色迷宫之中。

“沿岸漆黑的熔岩流、皮科岛沉睡火山的锥形山顶，以及向美洲方向延伸、毫无遮挡的广阔地平线——这一切似乎对人类生命表现出一种令人心惊的漠然。”

圣米格尔岛（SÃO MIGUEL）的烹饪体验

亚速尔酿酒公司（AZORES BREWING COMPANY）

当加拿大化学家塔拉·麦克莱恩（Tara McLean）和亚速尔工程师埃德蒙多·埃斯特雷拉（Edmundo Estrela）搬到圣米格尔岛，发现找不到值得饮用的精酿啤酒时，他们决定自己酿造。2024 年，他们在里贝拉-格兰德（Ribeira Grande）开设了一家光亮整洁的酿酒厂和啤酒花园，还配备了一个用于雨天的气泡圆顶，提供使用当地新鲜泉水酿造的创意小批量啤酒和艾尔啤酒。

HUNGRY WHALES

这家总部位于庞塔-德尔加达（Ponta Delgada）的美食之旅公司自 2019 年起，就带领小规模团体穿梭于亚速尔群岛事实上的首府的后街小巷，将奶酪、葡萄酒、蛋糕和其他亚速尔特产与历史和故事讲述相结合。这家公司由家族经营，现在拥有自己的烹饪课程工作室，是了解该岛饮食文化的金标准入门之选。

QUINTA DOS SABORES

这家位于岛屿北海岸拉博-德-佩谢（Rabo de Peixe）、占地 7.5 英亩的有机农场，游客可以通过参观这座历史悠久的房产来学习永续农业，并在一个点燃蜡烛的改造谷仓中品尝五道菜的季节性品鉴菜单。尝试一下制作精良的亚速尔经典菜肴，如配胸腺的烤牛肉，然后入住一个迷人的木制房车中过夜。

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BOUTIQUE HOTEL TEATRO

Boutique Hotel Teatro 位于联合国教科文组织世界遗产城市安格拉杜埃罗伊莫（Angra do Heroísmo）的中心地带，通过将传统遗产与当代优雅相结合，颂扬特塞拉岛（Terceira Island）的历史与文化。酒店坐落在一座美丽的 17 世纪建筑中，于 2024 年完成翻新，保留了旧管道、柴火烤炉、巴洛克建筑、亚速尔群岛工艺以及 20 世纪 60 和 70 年代的独家照片等原始特色。宾客可享受宽敞的客房、采用季节性食材制作的当地灵感美食以及包括传统鹅卵石花园、游泳池、水疗中心和健身房在内的放松设施，营造出一种私密且地道的亚速尔群岛体验。www.boutiquehotelteatro.com / @boutiquehotelteatro

亚速尔群岛。

这些受联合国教科文组织保护的葡萄园围墙低矮且由手工打造，呈现玄武岩般的黑色，曾覆盖了 1.5万,000 英亩的海岸线。“十多年前，当我们开始收购废弃地块并恢复古老品种时，仅剩下 1%，”费利佩（Felipe）在为我们的下午品酒会开启酒瓶时说道。这里提到的“我们”包括葡萄牙大陆最著名且最具实验精神的酿酒师之一，也是费利佩的商业伙伴安东尼奥·马萨尼塔（António Maçanita）。“他意识到这里葡萄的强度处于另一个水平，”费利佩说，“虽然存在一个合作社，但没有人为皮库岛（Pico）的葡萄酒发声。”

我们摇晃并品尝了三款 2024 年的年份酒，每款都展示了一种不同的本土葡萄。arinto dos açores 像杯中的海风一般袭来——充满了紧致的柑橘味和咸鲜的快感，让人想起早晨的乘船之旅；随后是 terrantez do pico，其佛手柑和碘的复杂风味暗示着某种古老的东西；最后由 verdelho 以热带的丰盈感收尾。“现在我们已经在市场上重新建立了皮库岛的声誉，葡萄的价格几乎达到了香槟的水平，”他告诉我，“当地人又开始回归酿酒业了。”

我们穿过酒庄的橡木桶，前往 Latitude 餐厅享用晚餐。在那里，由亚速尔群岛主厨鲁伊·巴蒂斯塔（Rui Batista）设计的全新 10 道菜品尝菜单，搭配酒庄著名的葡萄酒。鲁伊是一位低调但充满激情的年轻才俊，致力于在这个葡萄牙偏远角落开拓精致餐饮。“几年前，亚速尔群岛的美食只有一种形式——而现在，它正在多样化，”费利佩解释道。与此同时，鲁伊和一群动作协调、身着黑衣的服务员端上了由著名及冷门当地食材层叠而成的精致作品。

红薯炸丸子被缝入一个海鲜花园中，顶端点缀着由主厨亲自手工采集的、像纽扣一样充满黄油香气的海蜗牛。随后是一道金枪鱼塔塔基（tataki），上面撒有烟熏鱿鱼，接着是淋了咖啡的玉米粉，顶端覆盖着猪皮爆米花，以及一份被奶油蚕豆环绕、口感极佳的慢炖羊肉。这是一场穿梭于亚速尔群岛食材库的成熟烹饪之舞，即便当太阳沉入 currais（葡萄园围墙）之外的大洋，将它们完全溶解在黑暗之中时，这场舞曲仍在继续。

从炉灶到餐叉

一架双引擎的跳岛航班将我送达圣米格尔岛（São Miguel）的亚速尔群岛主要国际机场——庞塔德尔加达（Ponta Delgada）。这里深色石砌教堂与现代商店交织在一起，看起来更像是一个集镇，而非该地区最大、最发达岛屿的行政首府。

你知道吗？欧洲唯一的商业茶园位于圣米格尔岛。茶树于19世纪从中国引入，在岛上温和且多雾的气候中生长茂盛。这两家庄园均生产并销售红茶和绿茶。左起：圣米格尔岛是前往亚速尔群岛旅行者的主要枢纽；Gorreana 仍使用拥有数百年历史的机器来生产茶叶。

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亚速尔群岛。

沿着通往内陆的蜿蜒道路，我向西前往塞特西达德斯（Sete Cidades）的翡翠色湖泊旁徒步，随后沿着北岸折返，在 Gorreana 品尝一杯芬芳的绿茶。这家茶园成立于 1883 年，至今仍在使用百年前的机器。

随后，在镜面般的富尔纳斯湖（Lake Furnas）岸边，一个充满硫磺喷气孔、散发着刺鼻气味的谷地里，我见到了餐厅老板曼努埃尔·奥利维拉（Manuel Oliveira）。曼努埃尔是一个留着令人印象深刻的胡须、看起来很严肃的男人，但当我靠近时，他露出了温暖且像父亲般慈祥的微笑。他和妻子安娜（Ana）在附近的富尔纳斯镇于 18 年前开设了 Banhos Férreos 餐厅。

“来看看我们怎么烹饪 cozido 吧，”他说。亚速尔群岛的非官方代表菜——cozido das furnas（一种丰盛的分层肉炖菜）——将成为我在这个群岛上的最后一餐。

在一道木栅栏之外，散布的土堆上标有当地餐厅的名字。在其中一个土堆旁，一名穿着高可见度工作服的市政工作人员正用铲子挖掘土壤，露出一个巨大的钢锅，然后他用杆子将锅从冒烟的地面中勾出，装进曼努埃尔等待着的面包车里。

“肉的品质决定了 cozido 是否美味，”不久后，当我坐在他们那家位于前富尔纳斯温泉浴场内的温馨瓷砖餐厅里时，安娜说道。她白发苍苍，穿着围裙，刚从厨房出来，在我面前摆上了一盘壮观的盛宴——圆润的血肠、鲜嫩的鸡腿、一块多汁的炖牛排，以及一大块猪蹄，全部铺在红薯、胡萝卜和半颗白生菜之上。

“烹饪需要五到七个小时，所以我们在夜间的精确时间将密封锅交给管理员埋入地下，”她解释道。此时我正在盛菜，那些被肉汁染深色的软烂蔬菜在过程中散开了。“我的食谱是经典的，是这里几个世纪以来制作 cozido 的方式。我只加入少许大蒜、白葡萄酒和月桂叶——以及一些 pimenta da terra，”她说道，这立刻提醒我要买一瓶那种甜而辛辣的亚速尔烹饪酱，在旅途中我曾在无数道菜中品尝过它。

就像亚速尔群岛的许多菜肴、作物和传统一样，cozido das furnas 呼应了几个世纪前引入的东西——在这种情况下，是来自大陆的炉煮式 cozido à portuguesa（如今在农村地区仍有供应）——并结合了利用岛屿原始自然景观的本地特色。

当我一边吃着，一边担心腰带扣能否撑住时，我思考着在这个世界的偏远地区，将食物呈现在盘中需要付出什么。从在湍急的大西洋潮汐中采集帽壳螺，到给脾气暴躁的草饲奶牛挤奶，再到在夹杂盐分的海洋强风中种植葡萄和咖啡，在亚速尔群岛，必要性与独创性始终是其秘密配方。

“她刚从厨房出来，在我面前摆上了一盘壮观的盛宴——圆润的血肠、鲜嫩的鸡腿、一块多汁的炖牛排，以及一大块猪蹄，全部铺在红薯之上。”

左图：在 Restaurante Banhos Ferreos 供应的 cozido das furnas 炖菜盛宴。

必备指南

抵达与交通 英国航空（British Airways）在夏季运营希思罗机场与亚速尔群岛最大岛屿圣米格尔岛之间的直飞航班。

平均飞行时间：4小时15分钟。葡萄牙航空（TAP Air Portugal）通过里斯本或波尔图，从盖特威克、希思罗和曼彻斯特提供前往圣米格尔岛和特塞拉岛的全年航班（以及前往其他六个岛屿的季节性航线）。ba.com flytap.com 这个由九个岛屿组成的群岛横跨大西洋 370 英里；SATA 航空的航班（飞行时间 30-50 分钟）以及 Atlanticoline 轮渡将圣米格尔岛、皮科岛和圣若热岛连接起来。在每个岛上，租车是必不可少的。sata.pt atlanticoline.pt ilhaverde.

最佳旅行时间

夏季最高气温 21-25℃ 且少雨，非常适合徒步旅行。4 月和 5 月是观鲸的最佳时机，此时蓝鲸和长须鲸在迁徙，同时还有常驻的抹香鲸。冬季气候温和（13-16℃），但雨水更多且风力更强。当地人会告诉你，这些岛屿一天之内可能出现四季，因此请准备好分层衣物和防水装备。

住宿推荐

Cabanas da Viscondessa, 圣若热岛, €220 (£190) 起，仅限木屋。cabanasdaviscondessa. Azores Wine Company, 皮科岛, €250 (£216) 起, B&B。antoniomacanita. Quinta da Mar, 圣米格尔岛, €130 (£112) 起, B&B。quintadomar-caloura.

更多信息

行程规划

Pura Aventura 提供为期 15 天的“亚速尔群岛跳岛游：鲸鱼、葡萄酒与火山奇观”之旅，每人 £3,950 起，包括 14 晚 B&B 住宿、租车、轮渡票、内部航班、两顿品鉴菜单晚餐、导览活动和 GPS 自导徒步。不含国际机票。pura-aventura.

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制造 # 在

卢旺达的首都正成为关注的焦点，充满活力的艺术、美食和时尚场景为旅行者提供了许多在此停留数日的理由

基加利

文字：ZOEY GOTO 摄影：JACQUES NKINZINGABO 图片：SHUTTERSTOCK（左） 2026 年 9 月 97

基加利。

艺术

一只大猩猩在我上方若隐若现，嘴巴凝固在永恒的咆哮之中。它那长着獠牙的牙齿捕捉着正午的阳光，而那双看起来强大到能像金刚一样将人一把舀起的双手，自然地垂在身体两侧。这是我在卢旺达的第一个早晨，也是我第一次见到大猩猩——尽管情况并非表面看上去那样。每年，大约 3.5万,000 名旅行者会冒险进入卢旺达火山国家公园的迷雾山脉去寻找真正的原生态体验，而我此刻正站在该国的首都基加利。耸立在我面前的巨人并非血肉与皮毛，而是一座由废弃摩托车零件和生锈铁链打造的、发出叮当声的金属雕塑。而且，我闻到的不是向北行驶三小时才能到达的丛林中那种潮湿的泥土气息，而是从附近咖啡馆飘来的新鲜烘焙咖啡的香气。

这座装置的创作者 Aimable Kigenza 穿着牛仔裤，戴着棒球帽，在 Niyo 艺术中心的入口处微笑地站着。画廊的外墙和车道上爆发着色彩鲜艳、充满喜悦的旋转壁画。这是一个不断变化的画布，在每半年一次的雨季之后会被重新绘制，因为大雨会再次让这座城市变得一尘不染。直到最近，大多数前往卢旺达的旅行者都会快速穿过基加利，他们不仅前往北部的丛林观看山地大猩猩，还会向东前往阿卡盖拉国家公园进行“五大兽”野生动物之旅。然而，充满活力的艺术场景的兴起，正说服游客们在响应自然的召唤之前，先按下暂停键，感受基加利的创意脉搏。

这座首都拥有约 170 万 人口，坐落在一个郁郁葱葱的盆地中，其天际线由起伏的丘陵和蓝花楹树环绕，从 9 月到 11 月，这些树木将城市笼罩在柔和的紫色薄雾中。Aimable 解释说，卢旺达日益增长的旅游业与当代艺术和设计的出现之间存在一种共生关系。“随着国家的发展，旅游业和酒店业为艺术家们通过销售作品谋生提供了新的机会，”他说。

自 2014 年开业以来，Aimable 工作和展出作品的 Niyo 艺术中心已成为这一场景的核心。该画廊还作为一个由 30 多位东非创作者组成的集体运营，并配备了工作室空间。墙上挂满了画布，描绘的内容包括令人眼花缭乱的抽象斑马、挤满人群的集市广场，以及被包裹在布单中背在母亲背上的孩子们。该中心的一部分利润用于帮助弱势儿童、单身母亲以及 1994 年卢旺达大屠杀的幸存者。

大屠杀发生时，Aimable 只有六岁，据信在 100 天内有多达 100 万人被杀害。在失去家人并经历过灾后生活后，他希望他的这尊银背大猩猩能传递出治愈与救赎的信息。“当我创作它时，我一直在思考大屠杀以来的卢旺达，”他说。“在那之后，什么都没有——没有钱，没有手段，只有那些曾被用来杀害我们的东西留下的金属碎片，散落在街道上。但从灰烬中，这个国家成功地崛起了。这里现在有了希望。”

离开 Aimable 和他的象征性雕塑，我向城市东南方向行驶了几英里。高峰时段的交通开始变得繁忙，街道上回荡着摩托车出租车的轰鸣声。这些无处不在的摩托车是基加利的生命线，使用者涵盖了从坐在后座一边骑车一边刷手机的学生，到手持公文包、身着西装的通勤者。

在 Inema 艺术中心阴凉的庭院里，等待迎接我的是其联合创始人、艺术家 Innocent Nkurunziza。他戴着一副文质彬彬的圆框眼镜，长长的脏辫被随意地扎成一个发髻。Innocent 引导我参观这座两层楼的画廊，它于 13 年前在原大使官邸中开业。如今，这里展示着 10 位当地艺术家的作品，

从顶部起顺时针方向：Niyo 艺术中心的入口；Niyo 是一个由 30 多位东非创作者组成的集体；Inema 艺术中心的联合创始人，艺术家 Innocent Nkurunziza。前页，从左至右：基加利的屋顶景观；Nyamirambo 女性中心的编织篮。2026年9月 / 99 --- 基加利。包括 Innocent 的作品，这里还收藏了一系列稀有的刚果面具，其中一些可以追溯到 13 世纪。与 Aimable 一样， 在成为艺术家后，见证了基加利文化领域的剧烈变革。“在我刚起步的时候，这里还没有真正可以购买美术用品的商店，所以我得坐 10 小时的巴士去乌干达，就为了买颜料，”他回忆道。这种匮乏促成了一种将就而为的态度，至今仍影响着他的创作，促使他尝试利用周围丰富的自然材料，如泥土、黏土和树皮。 展开了他的最新作品：一条 18 米长的棕色树皮带，上面绘有一条翻滚的、如血管般的河流，像一块仪式地毯一样铺在画廊的地板上。“卢旺达仍然没有专门的艺术学校，” 说，“但在某种程度上，这让这里产生的工作更具原始感。”我们在画廊里最后漫步了一圈，那里展出由 绘制的画布，有些作品将地图和老照片层叠在一起，捕捉到了卢旺达新一代艺术家的活力、韧性和创造力。“在这里的每一件作品中，你都能看到一种表达自由，”他反思道。

美食

我的下一站是 Choose Kigali，这里将这座城市蓬勃发展的艺术与美食场景巧妙地融合在一起。这家高端餐厅兼艺术画廊坐落在时尚的基约武（Kiyovu）社区的一座山顶上。从这座豪宅的环绕式阳台上望去，基加利像一块由迷宫般的街道、赤陶色屋顶和无尽的森林山丘组成的拼布被褥般铺展开来。偶尔出现的建筑起重机和半成品办公楼暗示着这座城市正处于建筑繁荣之中。但在此时此地，一切都如此宁静。在点缀着大型艺术装置的花园里，空气中弥漫着非洲天堂捕蝇鸟的鸣叫声。在这座宏伟的老房子内部，一个现代画廊空间的迷宫徐徐展开。当代油画装饰着墙壁，一只雕塑大象在转角处若隐若现。游客们可能是为了 Choose Kigali 的轮换展览而到来，但真正让他们留在这里的，是该中心餐厅核心的创造力。

在花园里，英菲混血的执行主厨马克·劳顿（Mark Lawton）在我身边拉起一把椅子，告诉我他在全球工作二十年后，于 18 个月前抵达这里，并爱上了这里的风景及其产出的新鲜食材。马克曾在包括丽兹酒店（The Ritz）和克拉里奇酒店（Claridge's）在内的顶级厨房磨练技艺，他渴望将他的古典欧洲训练与家门口生长出的极具本土特色的丰饶食材相结合。为了证明这一点，他将一盘刺身推到桌上，搭配的是在周围山坡上种植的菠萝、芒果和百香果。这些鱼是当天早晨从基伍湖（Lake Kivu）的水域中捕获的，该湖横跨卢旺达与刚果民主共和国的边界。

“传统的卢旺达食物分量十足，适合家庭式分享。它依赖于红椒粉、大蕉、蔬菜以及鸡肉、山羊肉和牛肉等肉类，”马克在我的下一道菜上桌时解释道。基加利饲养的长角牛肉以三种方式呈现：鲜嫩的菲力、浓郁的炖颊肉和慢炖肋排，配以混合了卢旺达大蕉的土豆泥，使其口感丝滑。

Choose Kigali 在当地人和国际游客中的受欢迎程度，反映了席卷整座城市的烹饪觉醒。近年来，这座首都还迎来了 Kōzo——一家提供注入卢旺达 Akabanga 辣椒油春卷等佳肴的非亚餐厅；Nyurah——一家将非洲食材与法国烹饪技巧相结合的高端餐厅；以及 Ruā——提供以塔帕斯（tapas）形式供应的创意非洲小碟。当我们凝视周围的山丘时，很难不认同马克的观点：“感觉基加利的美食场景正处于一个真正的巅峰时刻。”

从左上角起顺时针方向：Choose Kigali 执行主厨马克·劳顿；摩托车出租车是一种受欢迎的出行方式；Choose Kigali 供应的基加利饲养长角牛肉；从中心西侧的基加利山俯瞰城市的景色。

100 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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基加利。

时尚

沿着穿过宁静的尼亚鲁塔拉马（Nyarutarama）社区的蜿蜒山路，经过宏伟的大使馆住宅和修剪整齐的草坪，我来到了 House of Tayo，一家时髦的艺术工作室兼男装精品店。在这里，作为我的行程收官，我将见一位正将卢旺达的创意信息传递到全球舞台的设计师。店内，大地色调的墙壁和竹制天花板勾勒出整齐的衣架，上面陈列着剪裁利落的夹克和图案大胆的衬衫。这是马修·鲁甘巴（Matthew Rugamba）的愿景，这位拥有卢旺达血统的设计师，其创意之旅始于数千英里之外。“我在美国上大学，当我告诉其他学生我来自卢旺达时，他们会说：‘我很遗憾’，”他带着苦笑回忆道。“我不明白为什么；我为自己的家乡感到自豪。但我也意识到，艺术和设计可以成为改变这些认知的强大工具。”马修的服装将流畅的现代剪裁与卢旺达元素相结合，例如几何编织、垂坠轮廓以及kitenge（一种色彩斑斓、图案丰富的传统非洲面料）的亮色点缀。在英国，阿森纳的足球运动员曾被拍到穿着他的服装，他的作品也在 2018 年《黑豹》好莱坞首映式的闪光灯下熠熠生辉。马修告诉我，他在基加利这里也拥有忠实的追随者。的确，每个周五，当办公室职员们将西装换成色彩鲜艳的本地制造衬衫时，在城市各处都能瞥见他的作品——这是支持本土设计的一场日益兴起的运动。“如今‘卢旺达制造’这个概念分量更重了，”马修说着，手指抚平一件图案领口。 “这一直我的梦想，让全世界的人都为穿着这里制造的衣服而感到自豪。”当我走出他的精品店时，午后迟到的阳光在宁静的街道上洒下金色的光辉。当太阳低低地掠过基加利的山丘，棕榈树在柏油路上投下长长的影子。这是一座正处于重塑自身故事之中的城市——而像马修这样的艺术家正在证明，创意很快将与灵长类动物一样，成为卢旺达最吸引人的魅力之一。

SEPTEMBER 2026 ■ 103

基加利。

行前规划

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JUDITH HOME FIKA CAFE

这里四间舒适的套房内部采用白色基调，由当地工艺的纺织品和编织篮点缀得更加柔和。双人床上垂着网状床幔，附设的咖啡馆提供营养丰富的早餐。含早 B&B，$75 (£56) 起。@fikacaferw

HEAVEN BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Heaven 酒店的 30 间客房采用舒缓的大地色调装饰。这里设有盐水泳池，此外还有瑜伽平台、露天健身房以及一家销售当地艺术品和工艺品的商店。含早 B&B，15.92万,200 RWF (£80) 起。heavenrwanda.com

RETREAT KIGALI

这家精品隐秘酒店坐落在宁静的基约武（Kiyovu），环绕着一个被香蕉树和鸡蛋花树点缀的青绿色泳池。国王房配备柚木家具、挑高天花板以及种有热带植物的露台，而别墅则设有私密的浸泡池和室内 / 室外淋浴间。含早 B&B，$540 (£403) 起。hemingways-collection.com

餐饮推荐

QUESTION COFFEE

卢旺达雾气缭绕的山丘和火山土壤使其成为理想的咖啡产区。Question Coffee 从女性农民那里采购咖啡豆并在现场烘焙，并搭配撒有肉桂粉的糕点一同供应。游客可以参加大师班，在场地内采摘咖啡樱桃，并追踪它们从种子到杯中的旅程。questioncoffee.com

FIKA CAFE

这家悠闲的庭院咖啡馆提供传统的卢旺达自助午餐。除了 posho（一种浓稠的玉米粉粥），还可以品尝到 boilo（慢炖牛肉和鸡肉炖菜），以及辛辣的花生酱和炖至软烂的木薯叶。@fikacaferw

REPUB LOUNGE

这个热闹的场所提供现场音乐和开阔的城市景观。可以先尝试酥脆的油炸 sambaza（一种像沙丁鱼的小鱼），然后再品尝基加利最顶级的 brochettes（肉类、海鲜或蔬菜的烤串）。republounge.com

推荐活动

基加利种族灭绝纪念馆

基加利种族灭绝纪念馆既是一座记录 1994 年事件的博物馆，也是 25万,000 多名遇难者的集体埋葬地。其宁静的花园和展览为人们提供了一个庄严肃穆的反思空间。kgm.rw

NYAMIRAMBO 女性中心

该中心旨在让女性创意工作者获得可持续的收入，提供让游客尝试剑麻编织、珠宝制作和缝纫的研讨会。这里还设有礼品店。nwc-umutima.org

KIMIRONKO 市场

基加利最大的集市展现了当地日常生活的缩影，这里人头攒动，摊位上售卖着从香蕉、香料到珠宝和木雕面具的一切商品。kimironkomarket.rw 左图：Nyamirambo 女性中心为当地女性提供支持

实用信息

交通指南

卢旺达航空（RwandAir）每周提供多班从希思罗机场飞往基加利的直飞航班。rwandair.com 平均飞行时间：8小时30分钟。基加利交通便捷，道路维护良好，交通选择多样。大多数游客依赖 Yego 或 Move 等打车软件进行汽车和摩托车出租车行程。市内拥有完善的巴士网络，使用预付费 Tap&Go 卡，可在车站购买并充值。对于市外行程，私人司机和酒店车辆是热门选择。rideyego.com move.rw acgroup.rw

最佳旅游时间

基加利享有温和的热带高地气候，极少出现极热或极冷的情况。最佳天气出现在干季，即 6 月至 9 月和 12 月至 2 月，气温在 16℃ 至 28℃ 之间。长雨季（3 月至 5 月）和短雨季（10 月至 11 月）带来的暴雨偶尔会干扰行程计划。

更多信息

行程规划

通过 Audley Travel 定制的卢旺达六晚行程每人起价 £4,750，包括在基加利 Heaven Boutique Hotel 入住三晚，以及在穆桑泽（Musanze）的 Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel 入住三晚以进行大猩猩追踪。费用包含卢旺达航空的国际机票、私人接送、住宿、远足及大猩猩追踪许可证。audleytravel.com

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La Collina dei Ciliegi 坐落在 Valpantena 的中心地带，距离永恒之城维罗纳仅需短途车程，邀请旅行者通过所有感官来体验意大利这个非凡的角落。这座葡萄酒度假村被起伏的葡萄园和纯净的乡村所环绕，将屡获殊荣的葡萄酒、沉浸式体验和精致美食融为一体，每一处都揭示了由自然、传统和工艺塑造的景观之真实灵魂。在这里，每一个转角都有令人叹为观止的景色，难忘的味道在最后一口啜饮后仍久久萦绕，时间随葡萄藤和季节的温柔节奏而慢下来。在 La Collina dei Ciliegi，每一杯酒都不止是品鉴——它是一场通往意大利心脏的旅程。

lacollinadeiciliegi.it

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滴滴喀喀湖

位于滴滴喀喀湖秘鲁侧的阿曼塔尼岛（Amantaní）和塔基莱岛（Taquile）传统深厚，并以其纺织遗产而闻名，游客可以通过家庭寄宿体验这些文化。这里的景观也可能让人屏息——滴滴喀喀湖的海拔为 3,812 米，是世界上最高的可航行湖泊。

文字与摄影：ANNAPURNA MELLOR 2026年9月 / 107

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阿曼塔尼岛约有 4,000 人居住，分布在 10 个社区中，其中包括几家纺织品生产商。环岛路（Ruta de Circunvalación）环绕岛屿一周，石拱门标志着每个村庄的入口。经过数世纪梯田耕作的塑造，景观中点缀着原生植物，包括鲜艳的cantuta（秘鲁国花）。其鲜红的花朵装饰在 Pilar Rosmery Yucra Quispe 的上衣上，她是一位来自该岛 Pueblo 社区的织女。除了生产传统纺织品，她还与丈夫 Jose Luis 一起经营一家名为 Tikawasi 的家庭寄宿店。

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秘鲁。

2026年9月 / 109

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秘鲁。

在邻近的塔基莱岛上，纺织传统受到联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产地位的保护。岛上的居民在家中纺羊毛并编织，然后将产品带到主广场的中央合作社进行销售。广场是社区生活的中心，举办节日和婚礼，并为游客提供每日舞蹈表演。农业同样采取合作组织形式，农田在休耕期之前轮作马铃薯、玉米和谷物。农产品在传统的粘土烤炉中烹制，并配以来自滴滴喀喀湖的鱼或来自附近普诺（Puno）地区的油炸奶酪。

2026年9月 111

Mario 和 Juliana Huatta Yucra 住在岛中心，从他们家门口出发的小径通往沙滩和前印加时期的遗址，并可远眺白雪皑皑的玻利维亚安第斯山脉。像岛上所有的男性一样，Mario 从小就在祖父的指导下学习编织 chullo pintay（一种带耳 flaps 的安第斯帽子）。传统上，一名男子是否符合结婚条件是通过向织好的帽子里倒水来测试的，看它在不漏掉一滴水的情况下能坚持多久。

□ annapurnamellorphotography.com @annapurnauna

ANNAPURINA MELLOR 入住了阿曼塔尼岛的 TIKAWASI 家庭寄宿店以及 TAGULE HOJPEDALE MARIO

更多信息：INSTAGRAM.COM / AMANTANI, TIKAWASIHOMESTAY INSTAGRAM.COM / MARIOHUATTA

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OGR 由 Fondazione CRT 提供支持

OGR TORINO – 跨越国界的艺术与技术

在都灵市中心，Fondazione CRT 将 OGR Torino（一座面积 35,000 平方米的 19 世纪前铁路车间）改造成为欧洲最独特的文化与创新地标之一：一个充满活力的艺术与技术中心。一项全年运行的实验性计划将展览、音乐会、表演和促进研究与创业的项目汇聚在一起。作为工业遗产再生的卓越典范，OGR Torino 揭示了这座城市不断演变的身份：在这里，都灵的过去与未来共存，为那些寻求常规景点之外体验的旅行者，提供了一个审视意大利最迷人目的地之一的新视角。

ogrtorino.it

无论你梦想在德国混音 techno 音乐，还是在阿根廷学习探戈，这些旅程都将带你走进世界上最具标志性的音乐场景 文字：KAREN EDWARDS 114 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- # 节奏在延续 SEPTEMBER 2026 / 115 --- 音乐之旅。# 德国 ## 在柏林制作你自己的 techno 音乐 自 20 世纪 20 年代和 30 年代初魏玛歌舞厅的鼎盛时期以来，俱乐部文化与享乐主义在德国首都便已密不可分。经典的旅游路线可能会回顾这座城市动荡的过去，参观勃兰登堡门、国会大厦和贝尔瑙尔大街柏林墙纪念馆等地标，但这座城市充满活力的夜生活依然是其国际形象的关键：Tresor 是世界上最著名的 techno 夜总会之一，而 Berghain 则成为了现代感官主义的象征。在热闹的克罗伊茨贝格（Kreuzberg），音乐制作人 Andy Sexton 向那些渴望亲身体验打碟的人开放了他的工作室。在主讲课程中，Sexton 使用合成器、鼓机和制作软件，教初学者如何录制、编排和混音一条 techno 曲目。这种对制作人工作方式的幕后观察，让人们能够罕见地洞察到如今已根植于柏林人的生活方式。为期两小时的“在柏林制作 Techno 和 House 音乐”主讲课程每人费用为 £107。getyourguide.com # 意大利 ## 开启一场歌剧巡航之旅 维罗纳狭窄的巷弄和铺满鹅卵石的广场，为这场庆祝拥有 400 年历史的艺术形式的主题之旅搭建了舞台。这座城市点缀着中世纪和文艺复兴时期的建筑，但对于歌剧爱好者来说，最亮眼的是壮丽的维罗纳竞技场（Arena di Verona）。这座露天圆形剧场建于公元 30 年，比罗马斗兽场还要古老，是观看朱塞佩·威尔第《茶花女》演出的绝佳场所。从维罗纳出发，你将被送往威尼斯，在那里你将登上可容纳 20 人的酒店驳船 La Bella Vita 号，驶出圣马可盆地并沿着朱代卡运河航行。这座城市是克劳迪奥·蒙特威尔第的《波佩亚的加冕》在 1643. 年首次演出的地方。航程在六天后于曼图亚结束，但在结束之前，你将参观宏伟的钟形比比耶纳剧院（Teatro Bibiena），13 岁时的莫扎特曾于 1770. 年在此演出。Kirker Holidays 提供歌剧主题的意大利之旅，包括一次包含在 La Bella Vita 号上度过时光的八晚行程，每人费用为 £5,478。kirkerholidays.com # 波多黎各

沉浸在圣胡安的雷鬼顿文化中

雷鬼顿（Reggaetón）自 20 世纪 90 年代诞生以来，一直在波多黎各首都悄然孕育——而得益于像 Bad Bunny 这样国际知名艺术家的推动，它近期也席卷了全球。这种音乐风格受到牙买加舞厅音乐（dancehall）、美国嘻哈、拉丁美洲的 bomba、plena 以及雷鬼音乐的启发，如今的雷鬼顿代表了波多黎各的多文化遗产——它将 500 年的西班牙历史与非洲及原住民泰诺（Taino）的影响相结合。当地导游 Clement De Freitas 提供圣胡安旧城区后街及周边地区的私人步行游览，向游客展示 Daddy Yankee、Myke Towers 和 Rauw Alejandro 等音乐家的成长之地。欣赏那些被用作音乐录影带背景的彩虹色店面和房屋：Bad Bunny 和 J Balvin 曾在 Mural de Doña Fela 前拍摄了《Si Tu Novia Te Deja Sola》的部分片段。De Freitas 的 CL Tours 提供四小时私人导览步行游，两人预订起价为每人 $75 (£56)。cltourspr.com

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图片：JONATHAN STOKES, GETTY, SHUTTERSTOCK 从左至右：波多黎各圣胡安街头的音乐家；维罗纳在 6 月至 9 月举办年度歌剧节；塞维利亚西班牙广场上的弗拉门戈乐队 前页从左至右：塞维利亚被认为是安达卢西亚弗拉门戈的发源地；柏林拥有世界上最著名的几家 techno 俱乐部，经常邀请国际 DJ 演出

北爱尔兰

穿梭于贝尔法斯特的传统音乐之旅

如果你在寻找 ceol agus craic（“音乐与欢乐”），在主教区（Cathedral Quarter）可以找到很多。这里是贝尔法斯特几家备受珍视的饮酒场所和社区酒吧的聚集地，其中一些在“麻烦时期”（the Troubles）经历过艰难岁月，且每家都有自己的故事。时长两小时半的贝尔法斯特传统音乐之旅（Belfast Traditional Music Trail）包括像 Duke of York 酒吧这样的停靠点，该酒吧曾在 1972. 年被炸毁。相比之下，奢华的 Harp Bar 则以其红宝石色的装饰和现场爱尔兰蓝调音乐，映衬出 20 世纪 20 年代禁酒令时期秘密酒吧的氛围。沿途，由吉他手、长笛手、竖琴手和风笛手担任的导游——其中许多人曾在这些场所演出——分享关于社区、运动和韧性的故事，这些故事塑造了贝尔法斯特人。抬头望去，你会看到圣安妮大教堂及其希望之尖（Spire of Hope）在屋顶之上闪闪发光——这是这座城市精神的象征。 游览在周六进行，费用为每人 £20（15 岁以下 £10；六岁以下免费）。需提前预订。belfasttradtrail.com

西班牙

在塞维利亚学习弗拉门戈

苦橙树散发的甜美柑橘香气和标志性的响板敲击声，将提醒你已经抵达塞维利亚。在这里，在其故乡城市，弗拉门戈的声音从未远离。历史表明，这种音乐和舞蹈风格在 19 世纪主要演变自特里亚纳（Triana）社区的罗姆人群体。当时，弗拉门戈被西班牙精英阶层所轻视，但如今它被赞颂为安达卢西亚文化的精髓部分。在巴洛克、摩尔和文艺复兴建筑的混杂之中，隐藏着弗拉门戈舞蹈博物馆（Museo del Baile Flamenco），这是一座探索弗拉门戈历史的 18 世纪宫殿。服装和编舞的展示揭示了这种音乐在两个世纪以来是如何演变的。在工作室的后台，专业导师提供弗拉门戈课程，涵盖了该流派标志性的拍手打击乐以及足部、手臂和手指的动作。 课程费用为单人 €90 (£75)，每增加一名团体成员需支付 €22 (£18)。museodelbaileflamenco.com

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塞内加尔

参加海岸边的科拉琴工作坊

科拉琴（kora）被誉为“监狱之声”（这一名称赋予西非曼德文化群体的音乐家和讲述者），是一种在塞内加尔、几内亚、马里、几内亚比绍和冈比亚部分地区演奏的 21 弦乐器。它帮助一代又一代的讲述者传承口述历史，并笼罩在已有 300 多年历史的民俗之中。得益于格莱美奖得主 Toumani Diabaté 将其柔美、旋律感强的声音带向全球舞台，科拉琴在国际上也日益受到认可。在塞内加尔的大西洋海岸，卡富廷（Kafountine）这个渔村欢迎那些有兴趣学习这种竖琴鲁特琴的旅行者。由一个英国家庭经营的“科拉琴工作坊”（The Kora Workshop）提供为期一周的课程，期间可以探索当地海滩和卡富廷繁忙的市场，那里的摊位上摆满了手工艺品。套餐包括私人房间、全食宿、科拉琴教学和一件租赁乐器。学习科拉琴者的价格每周 490 欧元（420 英镑）起，陪同非学习者的价格为 140 欧元（120 英镑）。thekoraworkshop.co.uk

美国

在密西西比州追寻蓝调足迹

作为 BB King、Muddy Waters 和 Robert Johnson 等世界上最伟大的一些蓝调艺术家的诞生地，美国密西西比州几十年来一直吸引着音乐爱好者。这就是为什么在 2006 年，密西西比蓝调委员会（Mississippi Blues Commission）开设了“蓝调足迹”（Blues Trail），这是一条自助驾驶路线，涵盖了 200 多个铭刻在州文化历史中的展品和地点。你不仅能看到埃尔维斯（Elvis）出生地或曾接待过 Nat King Cole 和 Dorothy Moore 的阿拉莫剧院（Alamo Theatre）等景点，还能看到让蓝调焕发生机的真实背景。在图尼卡（Tunica）和伊索拉（Isola）等地的田野里，被奴役的人们唱起受部落音乐启发的歌曲；而在格伦艾伦（Glen Allan）和鳄鱼镇（Alligator）等城镇，赞美诗从教堂中传出。这两者都为三角洲蓝调（Delta blues）奠定了基础。在全州各地，家庭经营的咖啡馆供应热玉米卷、新鲜海鲜和密西西比泥派（Mississippi mud pies）——这些都是不可错过的当地主食。英国航空假期（British Airways Holidays）提供为期两周的飞航自驾游，包括前往孟菲斯的机票和租车（不含住宿），每人 912 英镑起。visitmississippi.org ba.com / holidays

阿根廷

用布宜诺斯艾利斯的方式学习探戈

Cultur 的探戈之旅将带你深入探戈文化的中心，起点是装饰艺术风格的阿巴斯托（Abasto）社区，传奇歌手卡洛斯·加德尔（Carlos Gardel）曾居住于此。他最著名的歌曲《Por Una Cabeza》便是在这些街道上诞生的。如今，一排传统的 parrillas（牛排馆）和优雅的咖啡馆填满了布宜诺斯艾利斯的主要街道科连特斯大道（Avenida Corrientes），但加德尔的遗产依然以壁画的形式留在通往地铁 B 线车站的候车大厅中。在圣特尔莫（San Telmo）——这座城市最古老的 barrio（街区）之一，埃塞萨之家（Casa Ezeiza）大宅标志着 1800 年代后期探戈起源的地点之一。漫步在以巴洛克风格建筑和灯光柔和的 tanguerías（探戈舞厅）而闻名的巴尔卡塞街（Calle Balcarce），或在充满活力的中心广场多雷戈广场（Plaza Dorrego）停下脚步观看快闪表演。你甚至可能有机会加入一场街头探戈环节。这个六小时的私人探戈之旅为最多三人的团体收费 240 加元（180 英镑），包括进入雷科莱塔公墓（Recoleta Cemetery）的门票，艾娃·裴隆（Eva Perón）等人安葬于此。cultuurbuenosaires.com

118 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片来源：AWL IMAGES; GETTY

音乐之旅。从最左侧起顺时针方向：塞内加尔是几个通过科拉琴音乐传承口述历史的西非国家之一；在布宜诺斯艾利斯的圣特尔莫区，专业探戈舞者在广场上表演；Sonny Mack 的乐队在孟菲斯著名的蓝调街比尔街（Beale Street）表演 # 音乐旅行书籍

奇幻世界之旅：一场穿越全球音乐的旅程 (TRIPPING THE WORLD FANTASTIC: A JOURNEY THROUGH THE MUSIC OF OUR PLANET)，作者：格伦·迪克森 (GLENN DIXON)

作者格伦·迪克森在环球旅行中寻找令他心潮澎湃的音乐体验，探讨了为什么音乐是新旧文化中不可或缺的一部分，以及为什么它如此深地植根于我们的生活方式之中。

格里奥与格里奥特 (GRIOTS AND GRIOTTES)，作者：托马斯·A·黑尔 (THOMAS A HALE)

一项关于横跨西非的 jali（或法语中的 griot）传统的研究，重点探讨了科拉琴及其在世代传承的故事讲述中的影响。

80 种乐器环游世界 (AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS)，作者：南希·迪克曼 (NANCY DICKMANN)

一部视觉参考指南，展示了塑造全球音乐文化的传统乐器的丰富性与多样性。

布鲁斯发源地 (THE LAND WHERE THE BLUES BEGAN)，作者：艾伦·洛马克斯 (ALAN LOMAX)

在 20 世纪 30 年代和 40 年代，民俗学家艾伦·洛马克斯通过第一手记录，捕捉了诸如马迪·沃特斯 (Muddy Waters) 和里德贝利 (Leadbelly) 等伟大布鲁斯艺术家的故事。

2026 年 9 月 119

永恒之岩

一条全新的徒步路线穿越北领地沙漠的红色里程，最终抵达澳大利亚最伟大地标的脚下。 摄影：PETER TARASIUK

从 30 英里外望去，乌鲁鲁在平坦的地平线上看起来不过像个小凸起：像蚁丘一样小，带着新鲜烧制陶土般的红色。我们在晨光中向它走去。有时它的轮廓被周围的沙漠橡树遮挡；有时它又消失在从内陆地区升起的漫长沙脊之后。但当我们向东行进时，它始终在那里——就像指南针的磁北极一样，是我们的参照点。

澳大利亚最著名的地标在国际上享有盛誉：在宣传册、海报和社交媒体帖子中屡见不鲜，来到红色中心（Red Centre）的旅行者们在旅游巴士上或直升机观光飞行中对其进行着无休止的拍摄和录像。然而，通过长途徒步，看着它的剪影在地平线上缓缓浮现——随着每一步的迈出而逐渐增大——这是近年来很少有人能拥有的特权。当然，在亿万年前，人们看到这块岩石的方式正是如此。

我来到这里是为了徒步乌鲁鲁卡卡拉小径（Uluru Kakararra Trail）——这是一条全长 34 英里的沙漠徒步路线，终点位于这座单体巨岩的脚下，该路线于今年 4 月正式开放。这条小径历经约 10 年打造，是与这片土地的传统原住民所有者阿南古人（Anangu）合作开发的。它穿越了乌鲁鲁阴影下那些经常被忽视的地貌，让游客能够首次在周围的国家公园内露营。

徒步团队仅限 16 位客人，运营方式低调——其哲学是轻量旅行。乌鲁鲁是一个如此为人熟知的地标，以至于全世界对其奇迹已感到半种麻木。以这种方式接近它，便是重新审视它。

我们徒步的起点是被称为卡塔丘塔（Kata Tjuta）的岩层——在阿南古人所说的皮特贾特贾拉语（Pitjantjatjara）中意为“许多头”；它虽然不如邻居乌鲁鲁那样出名，但要复杂得多。卡塔丘塔并非单一的巨岩，而是由一系列球形山峰组成，山峰之间的裂缝中充满了生命。

我们的第一步将我们带到了长满草的水洞和河红桉树林中。我们攀爬前行，穿过回荡着野生长尾鹦鹉鸣叫的峡谷。在攀登一个多风的山口时，我们的导游 Marie-Charlotte Redot 从宽檐帽下窥视，向我们解释卡塔丘塔和乌鲁鲁的地质构造。

她告诉我们，这两个地标最初形成于 5 亿 年前，由浅海的沉积物构成，最终在构造力的作用下倾斜，因此它们的岩层几乎呈垂直分布。两者都从平原上陡然升起——就像来自另一个存在轴心的闯入者——且两者都是神圣之地。在阿南古文化中，卡塔丘塔是举行男性仪式的场所。

Marie-Charlotte 解释说，对于阿南古人而言，整个景观都覆盖着深层的含义，他们相信每一个地标都是由祖先神灵在超越线性时间的空间中创造的，在澳大利亚其他地方，这种空间有时被称为“梦幻时光”（the Dreaming）。但这些故事——以及与之相关的仪式——由入会者严密守护。外来者只能希望触及皮毛。

“有时很难接受我们的认知是有极限的，”Marie-Charlotte 说，“在对这片土地的理解上，我们还处于儿童水平。”

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澳大利亚。

我们当晚的营地位于俯瞰卡塔丘塔（Kata Tjuta）的一处沙脊上。一群帐篷搭建在木制栈道旁；在一家布置着鲜艳原住民艺术品的简易离网旅馆里，人们享用着丰盛的餐点。晚餐后，我偷偷看向枕头下方，发现了一只巨蟹蛛——这只蛛形纲动物足有餐盘那么大，简直像是从恐怖电影道具柜里走出来的。我的澳大利亚帐篷室友用一种典型的澳式淡定向我保证，巨蟹蛛是蜘蛛界的“泰迪熊”，它们的叮咬很轻微，而且最好把它们留在帐篷里，因为它们会吃苍蝇。通过这样的时刻，我在旅途中与这片沙漠建立了一种直观的认知。

随后是三天的徒步。我们黎明前起床出发，在凉爽的空气中前行，手电筒的光束在阴暗中摇曳，前一天晒伤的刺痛感仍留在肩头。卡塔丘塔（Kata Tjuta）在身后渐渐远去，而乌鲁鲁（Uluru）则愈发清晰——在这两者之间，银河的弧线形成了一座天穹之拱，不久便消失在视野中。随着早晨时间的推移，乌鲁鲁变换着颜色。在黑暗中，岩石呈现出黑曜石般的深黑，映衬在深蓝色的天空下。随后，在黎明微光中变为紫色，直到倾斜的晨曦唤醒了它炽热的色调。在整整一天中——即便是在正午强烈的阳光下——岩石似乎依然保留着日出那一瞬间的灼热色彩。我们的路径在交织的景观中蜿蜒前行：穿过桉树林，棕色的隼在树顶警觉地盘旋；穿过一片片像麦田一样在微风中摇曳的羽顶三刺草（feathertop spinifex）。时间流逝——袜子里积满了沙漠的沙子。在疾驰的汽车中看起来像是毫无生机的广袤之地，在步行速度下，却展现出丰富的动植物马赛克。我们翻过沙丘，蜥蜴和蛇在上面留下了盘旋的足迹。我们在沙漠橡树的树冠下野餐，树枝在热风中像柳树一样摇曳。我们的小组是首批行走在乌鲁鲁卡卡拉小径（Uluru Kakararra Trail）的人之一——这条路线最近才由向导开辟，由于很少有人行走，灌木丛偶尔会刷过我们的脚踝。然而，我们是在追随一个更古老的传统。卡塔丘塔和乌鲁鲁曾都是沙漠绿洲，在遥远的过去，原住民旅行群体会在继续前往新的狩猎场之前，在这里休息并寻找水源。在最后一晚的营火旁，我们遇到了 Tjiangu Thomas (TJ)，一位笑容爽朗的原住民向导，他从沙漠的黑暗中走入我们的营地。他解释了“Country”（国土 / 家园）一词的深意——这个英语单词在18世纪末从地球另一端一个潮湿的岛屿被引入这里，但在澳大利亚原住民的语境中，它被赋予了新的含义，不仅涵盖地形，还包括祖先、文化以及与地球之间亲密的关系。这片“Country”蕴含着丰富的教益，不仅在它的创世故事中，也在传统上用于药用或作为丛林食物（bush tucker）的植物中。然而，TJ 担心有些人面临与古老方式脱节的风险。“很多阿南古人（Anangu）已经几百年没有走过这片‘’了，”他说，“人们停止了行走，他们有了丰田车和步枪。但只要你照顾‘’，‘’就会照顾你。当你在这里度过一段时间，你就会学会阅读‘’。”虽然一些阿南古人失去了与这片土地的有意义的联系，但旅行者们却成群结队地前来体验。旅游巴士在乌鲁鲁脚下怠速等待，以岩石为背景的日落晚餐场地被设计出来，黎明时分光影秀在上方闪烁。乌鲁鲁也一直处于澳大利亚原住民与政府关系的断裂带上。位于岩石正下方的原住民村庄穆蒂朱鲁（Mutitjulu），曾是 2007 年极具争议的“北领地干预”（Northern Territory Intervention）的早期冲突点：这项儿童福利政策引发了对当局种族主义的指责。十年后，《乌鲁鲁心声宣言》（Uluru Statement from the Heart）呼吁在政府中为原住民社区建立官方发声机制——该提案在 2023 年的一次全国公投中被否决。

从左上角起顺时针方向：向卡塔丘塔徒步；允许在国家公园内过夜的新规定经过多年筹备才得以实施；一棵开花的穆尔加树（mulga tree）；徒步向导 Marie-Charlotte Redot；刻在红色沙漠沙地上的蛇迹。 前页从上至下：乌鲁鲁-卡塔丘塔标志性徒步之旅第二天早晨的日出；在乌鲁鲁卡卡拉小径的羽顶三刺草中向乌鲁鲁行走。 SEPTEMBER 2026 123

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澳大利亚

乌鲁鲁可以是力量的源泉，但原住民社区仍面临许多挑战。TJ深信，像我们的徒步这样的倡议可以帮助保护一种常被认为是地球上最古老的文化，使其在21世纪西方社会的逆风中屹立不倒。“一些阿南古人（Anangu）迷失了方向，”他说，“我们需要向他们证明，那条文化路径依然存在。”我们路线的最后一段是最美丽的。我们进入了拥有粗糙树皮、能提供点滴遮荫的穆尔加（mulga）林地。在最后的几英里，林冠变得稀疏，露出了我们上方乌鲁鲁的红色峭壁，细小的斑胸草雀在其中穿梭。在乌鲁鲁脚下，TJ与我们汇合，讲述关于阿南古人认为在非线性时间中创造了这片景观的生物的故事。我们被礼貌地要求不要重复这些故事；这些故事仅旨在在这个环境中被邂逅。行走在乌鲁鲁卡卡拉拉（Uluru Kakararra）小径上并不艰苦，但在抵达乌鲁鲁时，人们仍然可以想象当年游牧民族进入其避难所时必然感受到的宽慰。在峡谷的阴影中行走，感觉就像在广阔开阔的沙漠地平线之后回到了家。水洞中流出的滴答声，在内陆荒原（Outback）风声那单一且孤独的音调之后，听起来就像音乐一样。在离开之前，我长久地凝视着那道“伤疤”——那是几十年来攀登乌鲁鲁的旅行者留下的足迹褶皱。攀登路线最终于2019年关闭，当时澳大利亚政府承认了这座岩石的神圣性。“伤疤”是一个痛苦的称呼，原住民用它来面对这种亵渎。现在的希望是，游客不在乌鲁鲁留下任何痕迹。相反，这座巨岩将给他们留下印记。如何前往： 澳大利亚徒步公司（The Australian Walking Company）是乌鲁鲁卡卡拉拉小径的独家运营商——无法独立徒步该路线。其为期五天的行程“乌鲁鲁-卡塔丘塔标志性徒步”（Uluru-Kata Tjuta Signature Walk）每人费用从$5,395（£2,843）起，路线在两座岩石之间运行，期间在生态营地住宿、用餐和休息，最后两晚住在一家可俯瞰乌鲁鲁全景的丛林旅馆。出发时间为4月至9月。艾尔斯岩机场（Ayers Rock Airport）服务于乌鲁鲁；捷星航空（Jetstar）从墨尔本和悉尼飞往那里，而澳洲航空（Qantas）则从后者飞抵。auswalkingco.com.au 从左上角起顺时针方向：当地阿南古向导 Tjiangu Thomas (TJ)；艺术家 Charmaine Kulitja 在乌鲁鲁-卡塔丘塔文化中心创作点画；徒步路线第三晚旅馆床上的景观

了解澳大利亚原住民

观看 《Kanyini》是一部 2006 年的纪录片，讲述了来自乌鲁鲁脚下 Mutitjulu 村的长者 Bob Randall 的故事。在这部时长一小时的电影中，Randall 探讨了传统的 Anangu 哲学与智慧，同时也哀悼其族人在全国范围内所面临的困境，从殖民化到当代的社会不平等。其他关于澳大利亚原住民的经典电影还包括《萨姆森与德丽拉》（Samson and Delilah，2009）和《兔棚围栏》（Rabbit-Proof Fence，2002）。

阅读 Bruce Pascoe 2014 年出版的著作《黑暗鸸鹋：黑色种子：农业还是偶然？》（Dark Emu: Black Seeds: Agriculture or Accident?）探讨了这样一个理论：在与欧洲人接触时，原住民社会具有高度的复杂性和先进的技术——从事农业并开创了永久定居点——而支持这一观点的证据一直被主流体制所轻视。这部充满争议的书在出版之初引发了一场全国性的讨论。

聆听 若想初步了解原住民音乐，可以尝试 Docker River Band——这是一个来自乌鲁鲁以西 Kaltukatjara 原住民定居点的沙漠雷鬼乐队。其主唱使用原生的 Pitjantjatjara 语和英语演唱，并辅以加勒比节奏。另外请注意，虽然迪吉里杜管（didgeridoo）艺术家经常在作品中从乌鲁鲁汲取灵感，但这种乐器实际上起源于该巨岩以北多达 1,000 英里的地区。

前往 乌鲁鲁-卡塔丘塔文化中心（Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre）位于乌鲁鲁的 Mutitjulu 水洞附近，是了解 Anangu 文化与历史以及学习该地区动植物知识的必经之站。在这里，您可以找到一家小型咖啡馆和展出原住民艺术家作品的画廊。uluru.gov.au 124 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- SEPTEMBER 2026 / 125 ---

长周末

特图安与塔穆达湾

凭借被联合国教科文组织列入名录的麦地那（medina）、地中海海滩文化以及新开通的直飞航班，摩洛哥北部的这一区域可能会成为该国下一个热门度假目的地。 文字：LORNA PARKES

最初将特图安（Tetouan）命名为 Titawin（意为“眼睛”）的是 Amazigh 人——摩洛哥本土的山地民族。对于一座几个世纪以来一直守护着该国地中海海岸的防御城市来说，这个称号并不糟糕。它最初是海盗攻击邻国西班牙船只的基地，随后命运反转，在 1913 和 1956 年之间成为了摩洛哥西班牙保护国的首都。尽管历史层次丰富，这座以手工艺品和摩尔式装饰艺术著称的白色城市，在历史上仅吸引了极少数前往附近丹吉尔或蓝色之城舍夫沙万的旅行者。特图安机场的扩建以及今年春天从伦敦起飞的首批直飞航班的开通可能会改变这一现状。而附近塔穆达湾（Tamuda Bay）的开发，包括 2024 年穆罕默德六世国王的 Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay 海滩度假村的开业，意味着特图安正成为一个便捷的“海滩+城市”度假目的地。地中海海岸拥有摩洛哥最好的海滩和游泳环境。而在塔穆达湾背后，里夫山脉（Rif Mountains）拔地而起，这道花岗岩之墙很容易被误认为是多洛米蒂山脉，且拥有安静的徒步路径。

第一天：白色之城

上午

特图安（Tetouan）麦地那（medina）的市场每天早晨都热闹非凡，因此请直接潜入这个被联合国教科文组织列入名录、由蜿蜒小巷和集市组成的中心地带，开启一场感官之旅，初步认识这座城市。这座麦地那是由 15 世纪末逃离西班牙的穆斯林和犹太难民建造的，至今在很大程度上未受旅游业的影响——在堆满蔬菜的摊位旁，你会发现用木柴加热的社区烤炉、一个小型的露天制革厂，以及出售来自里夫（Rif）山脉的、用于吸食 kif（一种当地烟草与大麻的混合物）的细长烟管的店铺。在观看完工匠们工作后，下一站请前往特图安现代艺术博物馆。这座城堡般的地标位于 Ensanche（西班牙时期围绕麦地那而建的区域），始建于 1918 年，最初是一座火车站。

下午

加入当地人的行列，前往家族经营的 Patisserie Rahmouni 糕点店，买一些浸满蜂蜜的摩洛哥甜点，如 chebakia 和 briouats。在漫步 Ensanche 区域时边走边吃，目标是棕榈树环绕的哈桑二世广场（Hassan II Square）。该广场位于王宫正前方，设有四座像宣礼塔一样的喷泉，当国王在宫内居住时，喷泉便会喷涌而出。广场周边的建筑是典型的特图安风格：骨白色，点缀以绿色——这种颜色在伊斯兰教中具有重要意义，同时也代表了里夫山脉的绿意。广场侧面的一扇门通往麦地那，在那里，山坡上粉刷成白色的房屋在阳光下像珍珠般的牙齿一样闪耀。登上 riad 餐厅 El Reducto 的屋顶俯瞰全景，然后坐在靠垫上，享用一顿用红椒粉和姜黄调味的沙丁鱼大餐。

晚上

晚餐后，乘坐出租车前往北面 30 分钟车程的塔穆达湾（Tamuda Bay）在海滩上散步。或者在 Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay 的 Medi-Spa 泳池中享受一次深夜畅游，那里水底的“星系”映照着悬挂在天花板上的巨大月球状圆球。

elreducto.com royalmansour.com

从顶部起顺时针方向：特图安粉刷成白色的麦地那是摩洛哥受地中海影响的北部地区的典型风格；特图安苏菲学者 Sidi Haj Ali Baraka 陵墓的装饰门；Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay 餐厅受西班牙影响的龙虾海鲜饭。

图片来源：GETTY, ALAMY, ROYAL MANSOUR COLLECTION

126 / NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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第二天：海岸与攀登

上午

简单的快乐正是塔穆达湾最擅长提供的。作为阿加迪尔（Agadir）或索维拉（Essaouira）的一个低调替代方案，这个安静发展的海滨度假胜地提供了在没有所有旅游陷阱的情况下欣赏摩洛哥海岸线的机会。大量的贝壳被冲上沙滩——早晨是慵懒地在海滩上搜寻贝壳的完美时机。由于地中海气候带来的水域比西面多风的大西洋海岸更平静，皮划艇和立式桨板在夏天也很受欢迎，游泳同样如此。

下午

擦干身体，花半天时间在里夫山脉（Rif Mountains）徒步，这是一片锯齿状的山峰，从休达（Ceuta）延伸到梅利利亚（Melilla），横跨摩洛哥的北翼。在向内陆延伸的步道上，驮着身穿 jellaba 传统长袍村民的驴子以及带着羊群的牧羊人比徒步旅行者更常见。Fahs Lamhar 地区（阿拉伯语意为“幼马之地”）提供了从塔穆达湾出发最便捷且最壮观的步道之一。在天气晴朗的日子里，可以看到该地区以此命名的马匹在陡峭的花岗岩悬崖下的高地金雀花丛中吃草，悬崖下方则是与大海接壤的低地牧场。在几个小时内，可以完成一个 4 到 5.5 英里的山谷环线，这里感觉非常原始；建议在特图安雇一名徒步向导，因为步道上的标记非常少。

傍晚

随着黄昏临近，返回特图安再次漫步于 Ensanche 区。在普里莫广场（Plaza Primo），驻足欣赏芥末色的哥特复兴式胜利圣母教堂（Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de las Victorias）——它是摩洛哥北部现存最令人印象深刻的天主教古迹之一。教堂之外是穆罕默德五世大道（Avenue Mohamed V），这里分布着该区一些最华丽的装饰艺术（art deco）和新艺术（art nouveau）设计实例。其中包括 La Unión y El Fénix 大楼——一座宏伟的西班牙建筑，顶端矗立着一位巨大的绿翼女神像。在回到塔穆达湾的 Le Méditerranée 餐厅时，菜单中也能发现西班牙的影响——这里是庆祝周末的绝佳场所，拥有海景、丰富的西班牙大锅饭（paellas）和地中海海鲜清单。royalmansour.com

从农场到堡垒

特图安的围墙麦地那（medina）有七座城门——每座城门都以不同品种的树命名，以向在城市扩张而清理土地之前，麦地那外围种植的果园和花园致敬。例如，Bab Tut 可译为“桑树门”。

从左起：皇家曼索尔塔穆达湾（Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay）的 Le Méditerranée 餐厅，其装饰将摩洛哥木工工艺与地中海色调相结合；特图安的胜利圣母教堂；丹吉尔卡斯巴博物馆（Kasbah Museum）内的伊本·巴图塔雕像；丹吉尔麦地那中著名的 Cafe Baba 入口。 图片来源：ROYAL MANSOUR COLLECTION, ALAMY; LORINA PARKES 128 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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指南 # 北部探索摩洛哥历史的五大方式 #

丹吉尔，地中海文化卡斯巴博物馆（Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures） 伊本·巴图塔（Ibn Battuta）是世界上最重要的中世纪探险家之一，1304. 年出生于丹吉尔。若想了解他的生活和旅行对摩洛哥产生的影响，请前往卡斯巴博物馆。该馆位于一座俯瞰大海的 18 世纪堡垒中，距离特图安仅一小时车程，涵盖了巴图塔从中国到印度和麦加的探索之重要性。它还深入探讨了巴图塔所生活的马林王朝（Marinid dynasty）。

斯帕特尔角（Cap Spartel） 这座风吹过的高地标志着直布罗陀海峡的西入口，其上刻有沿海徒步路径。这里是大西洋与地中海的交汇处——一个海洋十字路口，也是数世纪的战场，包括 1782 年的美国独立战争和 1936. 年的西班牙内战。这里有一座 19 世纪的灯塔——摩洛哥最古老的灯塔——馆内设有海事博物馆和一家餐厅。lecapspartel.com

休达（Ceuta） 西班牙仍然控制着位于摩洛哥东北端这个微小的飞地。阿拉伯记录显示，这座城市在 8 世纪是穆斯林入侵伊比利亚半岛的集结地。随后它在 17 世纪被西班牙占领，目前仍以说西班牙语的人口为主。除了阿拉伯浴场和香料集市，这座城市还拥有 10 世纪的防御工事和地中海海滨公园（Parque Marítimo del Mediterráneo）——这是一片由前卫的加那利艺术家塞萨尔·曼里克（César Manrique）设计的 56,000 平方米的绿地。

Cafe Baba 从 20 世纪 50 年代到 70 年代，米克·贾格尔（Mick Jagger）和基思·理查兹（Keith Richards）等音乐家和演员都曾光顾这家丹吉尔的标志性场所，抽一口大麻（kif）——那时这座城市吸引着一群自由奔放的国际人群。他们褪色的照片至今仍点缀在这家破旧茶馆的墙上。加入当地人的行列，在甜薄荷茶和棋盘游戏之间社交，透过马蹄形窗户眺望丹吉尔的麦地那。

特图安皇家工艺学校 (Royal Artisan School, Tetouan)

这所独特的国家工艺学校成立于 1919 年，旨在保护与西班牙和摩洛哥共同的阿拉伯-安达卢西亚遗产相关的古老工艺技术。学生们接受从木材绘画到石膏雕刻以及 zellige 瓷砖铺设等方方面面的指导。可在工作日前往观看工匠们工作；或者，Green Olive Arts 提供导览服务。greenolivearts.com 英国首条飞往特图安的直飞航班于 3 月启动，由皇家摩洛哥航空（Royal Air Maroc）运营，每周从盖特威克机场起飞两次。或者，从坦吉尔伊本·巴图塔机场（Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport）出发，车程不到一个半小时，该机场有瑞安航空（Ryanair）从曼彻斯特和伦敦起飞的航班。royalairmaroc.com ryanair.com 您可以入住位于海边的 Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay，这里提供划船、皮划艇、桨板冲浪、徒步以及特图安导览服务。豪华套房含早餐双人价格 7,000 MAD (£565) 起。royalmansour.com

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on the menu

苹果酒 萨默塞特郡

在西南部地区，一个与苹果酒（cider）等同的区域，农场生产在很大程度上延续了几个世纪的传统——同时伴随着一些充满活力的创新。文字：SARAH BARRELL 摄影：EMLI BENDIXEN

“它被埋在谷仓里，在的一堆瓦砾下被发现的。”我与农场主 Sophie Brendel 站在一台拥有 150 年历史的压榨机旁——她身材高挑，身着亚麻衣物，手臂上挎着一篮花园蔬菜——她向我展示这座现已翻新的橡木结构，它看起来像一台织布机或某种中世纪的刑具。

“到了 11 月下旬，当地人和朋友们会来帮忙压榨，”她说，“我们分享苹果酒，烹饪食物。就像这里世世代代的农民所做的一样。”

我此时身处 Thornfalcon Winery & Press，这是一组被薰衣草环绕的石砌农舍，其果园和葡萄园被环绕的 Quantock、Blackdown 和 Mendip 山丘所遮蔽。在萨默塞特郡，这个英国苹果酒的精神原乡，人们认为其生产可以追溯到罗马时代之前。该郡的这种古老饮品的消费量和产量在英国均名列前茅。这里拥有传统苹果树，以及像 Thatchers、Perry's 和 Sheppy's 这样家喻户晓的品牌——而且近年来，像 Thornfalcon 这样新兴的匠人生产商也出现了激增。

“我不想只是在封锁期间勉强维持，然后回到之前的生活中，”Panu Long 说。他是 Sophie 那样高挑且皮肤被农场阳光晒成古铜色的丈夫，曾在伦敦饮料行业工作数十年，负责管理像 Met 这样的酒吧。于是，这对夫妇开始规划建立一个果园和葡萄园，并于 2022 年搬到这里。苹果酒的生产在一年后开始。

Panu 让我品尝了 Thornfalcon 的干型天然起泡苹果酒。它带有咸鲜味，但苹果气息浓郁——几乎像香槟或 pét nat（天然起泡酒）。“就像葡萄酒一样，苹果酒的风味每年都在变化，”他说，“去年天气炎热，产出了很多甜苹果。”

Thornfalcon 还制作一种干草色的果汁——酸甜适口，像糖苹果一样甜——让我回想起童年的夏天。但大部分苹果被混合后发酵成苹果酒，这是一个为期一年的过程，最后在瓶中完成，以获得天然的碳酸感和圆润的风味。

他们的甜苹果酒是 Panu 的骄傲：一种蜂蜜般金琥珀色的奇迹，是通过“keeving”制作而成的。这是一个复杂的工艺，涉及温度控制和虹吸，旨在通过限制酵母的营养使其停止活动，从而保留糖分。

“这比我们酿造葡萄酒的任何方法都要复杂得多，”Panu 在谈到这种起源于 17 世纪法国北部和英格兰西南部的工艺时说道。

在果园里，我们发现了 Kingston Blacks、Stembridge Clusters 和 Porter's Perfection。“这些是古老而高贵的品种，能产出极佳的苹果酒苹果，”Sophie 说。

在这座宁静的 40 英亩农场中，自然占据主导，空气中除了云雀的鸣叫声外几乎没有其他声音。湖边有一个木柴加热的桑拿房和一群天鹅，而重新野化（rewilded）的田野里有三座布置精美的小屋，供过夜游客入住，可俯瞰果园和葡萄园。

“今年秋天我们将迎来第一次葡萄收获，”她说，“这些葡萄藤是三年前种植的。”该庄园已经使用当地葡萄生产了桃红葡萄酒和一种带有饼干风味的起泡酒。

“到 9 月，我们将在这里举办品鉴会和晚餐俱乐部，”Sophie 笑着补充道，此时我们经过一座正在改造中、带有精美扶壁的 16 世纪谷仓。“当你利用这片神奇土地的产出并注入创意过程时，某种魔力就会发生。”

赛德鲁姆之星

向北行驶 45 分钟，我来到了山顶上的小村庄马德格利（Mudgley）。这是一个周日的上午 10.30，威尔金斯苹果酒农场（Wilkins Cider Farm）的波纹屋顶已经在阳光下发出噼啪作响的声音。罗杰·威尔金斯（Roger Wilkins）正将一袋袋土豆扛到折叠桌上，桌子上堆满了沉甸甸的腌蛋罐头和块状的特级陈年切达干酪。

图片：THE NEWT（右上）；JAKE EASTHAM（左下）

从左上角起顺时针方向：Burrow Hill 苹果酒农场上自由漫步的绵羊；萨默塞特郡 The Newt 的部分蒸馏团队；在 Burrow Hill 苹果酒农场的“周六苹果酒巴士”活动中，顾客们在享受着啤酒和现场音乐；萨默塞特郡 The Newt 的一筐苹果酒苹果。

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时间线

中世纪 人们认为英国苹果酒的历史早于罗马定居者和诺曼入侵者，但它是由格拉斯顿伯里修道院（Glastonbury Abbey）等地的中世纪僧侣完善并推广的。

1600年代 “黄金时代”，园艺学家约翰·埃夫林（John Evelyn）赞誉萨默塞特郡的苹果酒“慷慨、强劲且足够令人陶醉”。

1800年代 1830年的《啤酒屋法案》（Beerhouse Act）允许农场经营小型苹果酒屋；工业化扩大了生产规模。1887年的《卡车法案》（Truck Act）禁止用酒精支付工资的习俗。

1900年代 大规模生产进一步扩张。如今著名的品牌相继推出，包括1904年在桑福德（Sandford）的默特尔农场（Myrtle Farm）创立的 Thatchers。

1980年代 由伯罗希尔（Burrow Hill）的萨默塞特苹果酒白兰地公司（Somerset Cider Brandy Company）等引领的工艺苹果酒复兴，该公司在1989年获得了英国首家获得许可的苹果酒白兰地蒸馏厂资质。

从上起顺时针方向：伯罗希尔周六常规服务期间的苹果酒巴士；从伯罗希尔看到的景色；威尔金斯苹果酒农场的罗杰·威尔金斯（Roger Wilkins）；索恩法尔肯（Thornfalcon）的农舍；布鲁顿（Bruton）Osip 餐厅的农场蔬菜原味拼盘。

“全部是本地的。你在超市里买不到这些，”这位精瘦的 78 岁老人说道。古老的酒吧桌子延伸到院子里；时髦的夫妇在阳光下啜饮苹果酒；当地人则喝着品脱杯，配上丰盛的烤鸡便餐。罗杰是典型的红润之色，从他苹果红的脸颊一直延伸到梳得整齐的灰发。他每周七天迎接客人——他告诉我，这项口渴的工作每天需要喝大约 16 品脱他那种乡村风格的苹果酒。“自从 20 岁起，我就没经历过宿醉，也没吃过阿司匹林，”他说。

罗杰的祖父在 1917 年创立了这座农场。石砌谷仓沿着果园环绕的山坡延伸而下，五代以来未曾改变——就像这里的苹果酒一样。“我们什么都不添加，”罗杰强调道，“不像工厂生产的东西：65% 是水，加上六茶匙糖。我管那叫 Lucozade（能量饮料）。”

一台重达 100 吨、像中世纪绞刑架一样的木制压榨机高耸至屋顶。每年秋天，一种混合的苹果酒苹果——比如在这里的果园中生长了几个世纪的金斯顿黑（Kingston Blacks）和棕鼻（Brown Snout）——被粉碎并压榨，果汁被转移到木桶中自然发酵。“我不做检测。我全凭嗅觉和味觉，”他说，“而且我至少放置六个月，最多九个月。所有工厂生产的苹果酒都添加快速发酵酵母，所以一周就能准备好。但你不可能在几天内获得醇厚度和风味。”

三个巨大的 118 加仑木桶提供直接从水龙头接出的“干型”或“甜型”。干型——最受欢迎的一种——具有经典的乡村农场气息，在舌尖留下一种涩味；另一种则是苦甜味，带有独特的苹果余韵。两者都呈浑浊的琥珀色，且清凉爽口。“如果你想要中等口感，那就是‘半干半甜’，”罗杰说着，将一半干型和一半甜型苹果酒倒入一个果酱罐中。我得出结论，这是我的首选，尽管我没有走到买一个 10 升油桶的地步。

这是很质朴的东西，但距离格拉斯顿伯里仅一步之遥的威尔金斯苹果酒农场吸引了众多名流，从约翰尼·罗顿（Johnny Rotten）到米克·贾格尔（Mick Jagger）。“莉莉·艾伦（Lily Allen）以前常和她父亲一起来，”他说，“她给我打电话，说婚礼需要 40 加仑。”

我们身后是一幅罗杰的壁画，被认为是班克斯（Banksy）的作品，据说班克斯在附近的皮尔顿（Pilton）拥有一家酒吧。“但这幅是我最喜欢的，”罗杰说着，展示了一篇与乔·斯特拉默（Joe Strummer）的剪报采访，后者是已故的 Clash 乐队主唱，且曾是这里的常客。“乔说，在萨默塞特郡喝着一壶威尔金斯农场苹果酒放松，就是他的一小片天堂。”

魔术师的绝技

开车一小时路程，我在萨默塞特郡的 The Newt 发现了一瓶如同魔术般的饮品。“很微妙，对吧？”酒窖助手 Max Warman 说道。132 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL IMAGES: DAVE WATTS (TOP RIGHT, INSET) --- The Guide “如果盲测，你会以为它是绿酒（vinho verde）。”我们正在 The Newt 的 Wyvern Wing 苹果酒（Cyder）进行品鉴，地点是在迎接宾客的前门那座时尚的蒸馏厂内，窗外可以俯瞰一座 18 世纪的围墙抛物线花架，上面种植着 300 个苹果品种。The Newt 同时也是一家酒店，于 2018 年开始生产，一年后向游客开放其位于布鲁顿（Bruton）和卡斯尔凯里（Castle Cary）两镇之间的 3,000 英亩林地、农田和花园。其 65 英亩的果园生产 70 个苹果品种，其中许多品种创新地采用了现代酿酒法与传统压榨苹果酒技术的结合。Wyvern Wing 口感清脆且充满活力，带有淡淡的苹果香，无论怎么称呼，它本质上就是一种葡萄酒。“如果我用餐时喝苹果酒，就会选这款，”Max 继续说道，“用葡萄酒杯盛装，以释放其香气。”Wyvern Wing 是 The Newt 小批量苹果酒系列（或写作 cyders —— 这种古旧的拼写反映了庄园的乔治亚时代起源）之一，采用冷发酵酒窖法酿造。在 Wyvern Wing 的案例中，加入了灰皮诺（pinot grigio）酵母，而香槟法（méthode champenoise）则打造出了香槟风格的 Winston。 “我们从 Babylonstoren 汲取灵感，”Max 提到 The Newt 在南非的姐妹酒庄。不同寻常的是，Wyvern Wing 是用布雷本（Braeburn）苹果酿造的。“食用苹果也能酿出有趣的苹果酒，”Max 解释道。不过，大多数苹果酒使用专门的酿酒苹果，这类苹果口感更酸，皮更厚 —— 比如 Yarlington Mill 苹果酒，它采用的是 19 世纪在离此地咫尺之遥的地方发现的同名品种。这是一款带有轻微气泡的饮品，具有苹果酒的单宁感，并带有太妃糖的余味。而冰苹果酒（Ice Cyder）则是最后的魔术绝技：通过冷冻苹果汁制成，与它所借鉴的加拿大冰酒简直一模一样。“而且，”Max 说，“把它像 spritz 一样与普罗塞克起泡酒（prosecco）搭配，效果出奇地好。”

住宿：入住 Thornfalcon 的乡村风格小屋、精致谷仓或马车房，可俯瞰苹果果园，均配有厨房，可入住 2 至 5 人，价格 £170 起。参观和品酒费用为 £25；请在 thornfalcon.com 预订。如需入住此处或其他西国家庭苹果酒农场，请通过 kiphideaways.com 预订。 活动：Burrow Hill 苹果酒农场的“苹果酒巴士周六”活动提供现场音乐和餐车美食。酒窖之旅将揭秘屡获殊荣的苹果生命之水（eau-de-vie）和苹果白兰地。somersetciderbrandy.com 更多信息：visitsomerset.co.uk

萨默塞特郡顶级美食体验

THE NEWT IN SOMERSET

在乔治亚风格庄园主屋的 Botanical Rooms 餐厅享用采集食材、腌鱼和庄园自养肉类，或在山坡上的 Garden Café 尝试以蔬菜为主的午餐 —— 如茴香汤、香料烤花椰菜 —— 并欣赏庄园的壮丽景色。thenewtinsomerset.com

FROME 农民市场

奶酪是苹果酒的完美搭档。这个位于萨默塞特郡东部的城镇市场出售布里风格的 Bath Soft Cheese、来自 Somerset Cheese Company 的天然皮奶酪，以及 Godminster 极佳的有机陈年切达奶酪。市场在每月第二个周六举行。somersetfarmersmarkets.co.uk

OSIP

这家位于布鲁顿郊外原酒吧建筑内的米其林星级餐厅兼酒店，提供从农场到餐桌的品鉴菜单，可能包括欧当根汤、发酵土豆布里欧修面包、配烤荨麻的黑猪肉，以及配大黄的酸模雪芭。此外还提供自制苹果酒。osiprestaurant.com

SEPTEMBER 2026 133

134 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- 住宿指南

曼彻斯特

这座北方城市正处于复兴之中。近年来，数家世界级美术馆和音乐场馆相继开业，首批米其林星级餐厅入驻，经济也迎来爆发式增长。这种活力体现在住宿领域——许多酒店就设在那些棉纺厂和仓库建筑之中，而正是这些建筑在工业革命时期首先改变了曼彻斯特的命运。在探索这座“北方之都”之后，这些地方是理想的休憩之所。文字：AMANDA CANNING & DANIEL STABLES

最具奇幻设计

FREEHOUSE HOTEL 从距离阿恩代尔（Arndale）购物中心仅几步之遥、外观相当平庸的 20 世纪 70 年代塔楼建筑来看，你完全无法察觉其内部的惊喜，但当你步入曼彻斯特 Treehouse Hotel 时，魔法便开始了。其俏皮的特质在地面层的开放式前厅、酒吧和餐厅中立即显现——植物从天花板垂下；木制鸟屋贴在不匹配的木质护墙板上；彩色瓶子和黑胶唱片整齐地排列在架子上。客人在前往楼上房间前可以尽情挑选零食——房间内铺着厚地毯，配有花纹被褥和 Donna Wilson 标志性的羊毛靠垫，在简约的混凝土天花板下显得格外温馨。如果你喜欢这里的风格，可以在商店购买精选家居用品。 房费：£209 起。treehousehotels.com

最尽奢华之美

STOCK EXCHANGE HOTEL 这座华丽的五星级酒店统治着曼彻斯特的奢华酒店领域。正如其名，它坐落在该市的前证券交易所内。迎接客人的场景同样宏大，拥有单色瓷砖地板、绿色大理石门拱和高耸的天花板。这种美学延续到了房间中，房间均以这座爱德华巴洛克杰作背后的建筑师命名。在原交易大厅的高耸圆顶之下是 Tender 餐厅。这里的下午茶极其精美，而主厨 Niall Keating 定期更换的菜单则展示了季节的馈赠。晚餐后，可以前往位于旧地下金库中的 Sterlin 鸡尾酒吧——这是该市最时髦的睡前饮酒场所之一。 房费：£175 起。stockexchangehotel.co.uk

除非另有说明，所有报价均为标准双人间，仅限旺季。 图片：AWI, IMAGES, SIMON BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY, STOCK EXCHANGE HOTEL 2026 年 9 月 / 135

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指南

预算有限且追求灵活性的最佳选择

📌 NATIVE MANCHESTER

Native Manchester 坐落在北区（Northern Quarter）边缘一座漂亮的红砖仓库中，提供你可能想到的一切住宿类型，从宽敞的双人间到两居室公寓。大多数房间配有厨房区域，令人印象深刻的两层顶层公寓则拥有可以俯瞰城市天际线的巨大露台。建筑的遗产在整个空间中得到了充分利用，裸露的砖墙、拱形天花板和粗壮的金属柱被用作装饰元素。目前计划在宽敞的一楼社交空间开设美食广场；现在，客人们可以在咖啡柜台买点零食，然后在低矮的皮革沙发上休息。 房费： £72 起。nativeplaces.com

狂欢之夜的最佳选择

📌 LEVEN

Leven 是一家位于修复后的棉纺仓库中的活力精品酒店，它自豪地展示着工业骨架，拥有粗壮的支柱和裸露的红砖墙。天鹅绒沙发和盆栽植物等温馨点缀让房间感觉像家一样，较大的顶层套房还配有厨房。酒店休息室围绕着一个引人注目的维里迪安绿鱼鳞瓷砖吧台，每天早晨供应欧陆早餐，夜晚则提供奢华的鸡尾酒（尝试一下萨尔福德 spiced rum、香蕉利口酒和焦糖的混合饮品）。酒店下方是 Maya，一个三层高的俱乐部、酒吧和餐厅，供应现代欧洲美食并举办华丽的变装表演。 房费： £104 起。liveleven.com

创意人士的最佳选择

📌 THE ALAN

又一家由旧工业空间（这次是一座维多利亚时代的棉花仓库）改造而成的酒店——The Alan 在保留并颂扬其历史的同时，融入了现代元素。卧室采用了粉色抛光混凝土墙、手绘珐琅灯罩以及当地艺术家的抽象画。与此同时，楼下的酒吧将平凡之物的升华推向了新高度：酒吧前台的树脂中封存着烟蒂、杂草和花朵，灵感来自附近的 M62 高速公路。当地的创意人士纷纷聚集在这家位于市中心的酒店工作和社交，这里提供优质咖啡和全天候餐饮，菜品从如焦花椰菜汤这样富有想象力的料理，到更常见的比萨、汉堡和炸鱼薯条。客房： £75 起。thealanhotel.com 从左上角起顺时针方向：Leven 的工业风卧室；The Alan 的用餐场景；Native 的一楼社交空间；Leven 酒吧的鸡尾酒。 图片：HEIKO PRIGGE; THE ALAN; HOTEL MANCHESTER; NATIVE MANCHESTER; CARL SUKONIK; THE VAN PHOTOGRAPHY 136 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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最适合极繁主义设计

COW HOLLOW HOTEL

北区（Northern Quarter）——曼彻斯特最初的文青社区——是一个充满活力的区域，遍布唱片店、现场音乐酒吧、艺术画廊和服装店。位于其核心地带且体现了该地区所有精品古怪风格的是 Cow Hollow Hotel，这里是多种风格的大杂烩——摩洛哥瓷砖工艺、装饰艺术的华丽、木梁的质朴在此碰撞。这座城市的工业遗产显而易见；酒店设在一家旧纺织仓库中，业主通过在房间内保留旧齿轮和轮盘，并将铁路轨枕融入家具，向建筑的过去致敬。由于酒吧每晚提供免费的普罗塞克起泡酒（prosecco）和小吃，这里的住宿体验在服务方面与环境同样出色。客房： £99 起。cowhollow.co.uk

最适合维多利亚时代的宏伟感

KIMPTON CLOCKTOWER HOTEL

在曼彻斯特的酒店环境中，很难找到比 Kimpton Clocktower Hotel 更具标志性的了。它占据了一座宏伟的红砖巴洛克建筑，建于 1895 年，最初是一家保险公司办公室，后来成为 Palace Hotel。房间保留了时代特征，如双倍挑高天花板和拱形窗户。其中一个用餐空间 Refuge 是全市最精美的餐厅之一，提供全球美食菜单。从地面到由大理石柱支撑的挑高天花板，墙上贴着可追溯至建筑维多利亚鼎盛时期的陶瓷砖。与此同时，Winter Garden 玻璃房是一个沐浴在阳光下的绝佳场所，您可以在这里品尝由英国顶级食材打造的各式创意小碟。客房： £114 起。kimptonclocktowerhotel.com 2026年9月 137

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指南

最适合作为精致避风港

DAKOTA 那些追求忧郁且迷人美学的人会爱上 Dakota，这里深色木材和昏暗灯光的基调被偶尔出现的俏皮点缀所打破，比如大堂里一座用绳索盘绕而成的狗形雕像。房间中那种黑色电影般的、国际化的奢华感延伸到了酒吧，酒吧同样采用了忧郁的黑色、棕色和灰色装饰，而 The Grill 则供应全市最顶级的和牛牛排。尽管您可能会想在整个入住期间都蜷缩在酒店里，但请不要错过探索附近 New Islington 的机会，那里有码头、葡萄酒吧和餐厅，是全市最时髦的社区之一。客房： £154 起。dakotahotels.co.uk

追求高性价比风格的最佳选择

WHITWORTH LOCKE

Whitworth Locke 的自助式公寓坐落在一座由 19 世纪棉纺厂改造而成的建筑中，将工业风元素（如裸露的砖墙、管道和格栅窗）与世纪中叶的家具以及舒缓的鲑鱼色与鼠尾草色调相结合。所有房间均配有厨房，方便您自行烹饪；但楼下备受赞誉的 Winsome 餐厅提供升级版的英式经典美食（如豌豆布丁和肉派），您或许会更倾向于在餐厅用餐。这里还有一个砖墙咖啡休息室，非常适合远程办公或享用悠闲的早午餐。周边地区聚集了热闹的场馆、餐厅和流行文化地标，其中最引人注目的是一座巨大的 Vimto 饮料瓶雕塑。

房费： £80 起。lockeliving.com

图（从上至下）：Dakota 酒店的大堂区域；Whitworth Locke 带有起居空间的卧室；Whitworth Locke 的 Winsome 餐厅供应季节性英式美食。

138 || NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL

图片来源：DAKOTA HOTELS, LOCKE/EDYN

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拥抱

尊重旅游

阿斯图里亚斯在等待

阿斯图里亚斯亲王国 阿斯图里亚斯自然天堂

由欧盟 NextGenerationEU 资助 turismoasturias.es

西班牙体育与事务部 恢复、完善与韧性计划

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再访

波士顿

作为棒球冠军之城和 18 世纪革命者的聚集地，这座马萨诸塞州的首府对于处于世界事件的中心并不陌生。

文字：JONATHAN THOMPSON

波士顿对其体育遗产感到自豪是理所应当的。因在四大主要体育赛事中斩获大量冠军奖杯而被称为“冠军之城”（Title Town），这里拥有像芬威球场（Fenway Park）这样传奇的场馆——它是美国现役最古老的大联盟棒球场——并且在今年的世界杯中举办了七场扣人心弦的足球比赛。但体育场之外的这座城市又是怎样的呢？今年夏天，波士顿还纪念了美国独立 250 周年。市中心的酒馆曾见证了改变历史进程的激烈讨论，在闪耀的天际线之下，你会发现革命时期的关键遗址。其中包括旧南会议堂（Old South Meeting House，波士顿倾茶事件的筹备地）和保罗·里维尔故居（Paul Revere House），后者是那位著名波士顿反叛者的住所，他在 1775 年 4 月的午夜骑行引发了关键的列克星敦和康科德战役。诚然，这两者吸引的是截然不同的群体，但体育和历史都挖掘出了这座城市最强大的能力之一：讲述精彩故事的能力。

图（从顶部起顺时针方向）：自由之路涵盖了波士顿历史悠久的红砖建筑；位于布鲁克莱恩的约翰·F·肯尼迪出生地；乔治·华盛顿的雕像俯瞰着波士顿公共花园的草坪。

1 历史

自由漫步

自由之路（The Freedom Trail）是一条长两英里半的红砖带，连接着美国独立战争时期的各个遗址。从波士顿公园游客中心出发，前往邦克山纪念碑（Bunker Hill Monument），那里是为了纪念战争中第一次重大战役而建。离开主路，走进金融区的温斯罗普巷（Winthrop Lane），铺路石中的青铜砖揭示了一段更具趣味性的历史，纪念的内容涵盖了从市内的赛艇俱乐部到以激进著称的驾驶员等方方面面。thefreedomtrail.org

倾倒茶叶

波士顿倾茶事件船只与博物馆（The Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum）邀请游客亲身体验历史——通过重现将英国茶叶箱倾倒入波士顿港的象征性行为。在身着时代服装的演员引导下，你将登上的一艘修复的高桅船，将复制的茶叶箱抛入当年抗议活动发生的水域，并伴随着响亮的“万岁！”（Huzzah!）欢呼声。bostonteapartyship.com

探索肯尼迪的波士顿

波士顿到处都是与其最著名的儿子——约翰·F·肯尼迪相关的景点，包括这位前总统位于绿意盎然的布鲁克林（Brookline）社区的童年故居。若想体验更私密的感觉，可以前往他最喜欢的餐厅之一——位于联合街（Union Street）的红砖建筑 Union Oyster House。预订他钟爱的 18 号卡座，品尝他当年在阅读周日报纸时最爱大快朵颐的龙虾炖汤。nps.gov unionoysterhouse.com

欣赏革命艺术

波士顿美术馆（Museum of Fine Arts, Boston）新开设的“美洲艺术”展厅重点展示了来自北美、中美和南美的 18 世纪作品。在 400 件藏品中，亮点包括托马斯·萨利（Thomas Sully）在《渡特拉华河》（The Passage of the Delaware）中对乔治·华盛顿的戏剧性描绘，以及安德烈·皮埃尔（André Pierre）的《精神回归》（Retour Des Esprits Guinen），后者是对海地独立战争的致敬。mfa.org

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指南

那把孤独的红椅子

波士顿最著名的座位位于芬威球场（Fenway Park）看台的深处。这把被漆成鲜红色的椅子，是美国“最受喜爱的球场”历史上最远本垒打的落点：那是特德·威廉姆斯（Ted Williams）在 1946 年击出的一记超人般的强力球。棒球击中了坐在该椅子上的一个观众，撕破了他的草帽。那位球迷幸存了下来——这项纪录也同样延续至今。

从上至下：波士顿马拉松赛中在博伊尔斯顿街（Boylston Street）接近终点线的跑者；芬威球场的棒球场是著名的红椅子的所在地。

2 # 体育

强力冲刺

每年四月，波士顿都会举办全球最标志性的马拉松赛之一。众所周知，想要获得参赛名额极其困难，但庆幸的是，全年有许多旅游项目可以让您体验其中的氛围。其中最出色的是“Run 'Boston'”，它邀请您系好运动鞋，在导游的带领下跑完路线中的三英里，并在途中停留在重要的地标建筑前。tourbostonsports.com

芬威朝圣之旅

作为美国最古老的大联盟棒球场，芬威球场（Fenway Park） somehow 给人一种既宏伟又异常亲切的感觉。在这里观看一场比赛被公认为人生必做清单项目，赛季从三月持续到十月。比赛日赛前 90 分钟起，可在 E 门购买廉价票；而 60 分钟的官方导览则能让您深入了解该球场一些最具有历史意义的时刻。thefenway.com

步入体育历史

波士顿已将体育迷文化提升到了近乎公民宗教的高度，“体育博物馆”（The Sports Museum）拥有半英里长的展品，讲述着这座城市的体育遗产故事。该博物馆位于 TD Garden 内部——这里是波士顿凯尔特人篮球队和波士顿棕熊冰球队的主场——其涵盖的内容从拳击传奇到 NFL 王朝的所有一切。sportsmuseum.org

在 Banshee 尽情欢呼

在体育酒吧中，The Banshee 自成一格——这是一家传奇的波士顿机构，球迷们在这里聚集，观看从 NFL 到盖尔式足球的任何一场体育对决，通常早在早上 6 点就开始聚集。它隐藏在多切斯特（Dorchester）社区（当地人称之为“Dot”），以其喧闹但热情好客的氛围和丰富的啤酒选择而闻名，其中包括新英格兰地区的宠儿 Fiddlehead。bansheeboston.com

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AVIGNONESI

探索 Le Capezzine，这是 Avignonesi 在蒙特普尔恰诺（Montepulciano）山丘上的历史庄园。在这里，生物动力法葡萄园、农场动物和正宗的托斯卡纳款待相得益彰，为您带来难忘的葡萄酒与美食体验。摄影：@cartacarbone 在 avignonesi.it / en / experiences 规划您的行程

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水上摩托全球探险 —— 从巴塔哥尼亚到印度尼西亚 从狂野的河流到广阔的海洋 座头鲸 —— 近距离接触野生动物 地图终点 —— 探索起点 近距离观察地球上最大的生物 陪伴您一生的瞬间 独家旅程 专家导览 一生一次的体验

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专家旅行者 (Expert Traveller)

概览 • 装备清单 • 深度旅行 • 故事背后 • 操作指南 • 绝佳小众地 • 我的旅行 图片：ANTONIA BLACK / PELORUS 2024年9月 □ 145

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概览

你能克服飞行恐惧症吗？自疫情以来，航空焦虑变得日益普遍，但针对紧张飞行者的帮助比以往任何时候都多。文字：DOM TULETT

“现在你们会听到发动机的声音变大，因为飞行员正在准备起飞滑跑。这完全正常。”当我们在伯明翰向跑道滑行，准备起飞进行一次特殊的 45 分钟 EasyJet 航班——这是其“无畏飞行者”（Fearless Flyer）计划的最后一个模块时，机长 Gordon MacLean 柔和的苏格兰口音通过对讲机传来。当我们沿跑道加速时，我专注于控制呼吸并想象一个积极的结果，正如我的培训所建议的那样。坐在我旁边的是 Elias Gathercole，一名来自伦敦的 20 岁学生。他已经七年没有踏入飞机了。每个夏天，他都看着朋友们飞往海外度假。他将在 8 月满 21 岁，并希望在伊比萨岛庆祝这一时刻。

Elias 和我属于估计 10% 患有航空恐惧症（aerophobia，即飞行恐惧）的英国人。对于许多人来说，这种困扰影响了他们的旅行习惯。一项 2026 年由 Confused.com 对 2,000 名紧张的英国飞行者进行的调查发现，30% 的人宁愿在英国境内度假，也不愿登上飞机。在那些确实出国旅行的人中，近四分之一选择乘坐汽车、火车或轮渡。尽管从统计数据来看，飞行是最安全的交通方式。美国运输统计局（Bureau of Transportation Statistics） 2010 年至 2019 年这十年的数据显示，商业航空在安全性方面遥遥领先。在美国，商业航空公司每运输 10 亿乘客英里，仅有 0.002 例死亡事故。相比之下，火车为 0.31，汽车为 3.5，摩托车则为 212。

在全球范围内，国际航空运输协会（IATA）估计，由于避飞导致的收入损失每年给航空公司和旅游业带来 25亿美元 (18.9亿英镑) 的损失。这是欧洲航空公司渴望解决的问题。自 2012, 推出以来，EasyJet 的“无畏飞行者”课程已帮助超过 1.4万,000 人。该课程包括完成 16 个在线模块，每个模块时长从 4 分钟到 20 分钟不等。其目的是揭秘飞机的噪音和动作，并概述应对焦虑的技术。课程最后在航空公司位于英国的基地之一进行一次真实的飞行。英国航空（British Airways）和汉莎航空（Lufthansa）也运行类似的计划，而 LoveFly 和 FlightPad 等公司也正进入这一领域，提供在线课程和模拟器训练。

临床与航空心理学家、《克服飞行恐惧》（Overcome Your Fear of Flying）一书的合著者 Rob Bor 教授解释说，恐惧和恐惧症通常可以通过个人简单地尝试避开焦虑原因来解决。“如果你害怕蛇，你就不会进入动物园的爬行动物笼，”Bor 说，“但对于许多人来说，登机是不可避免的。”在这种情况下，治疗胜于预防。

湍流经常被认为是航空恐惧症的主要原因。Ignacio Gallego-Marcos 拥有计算流体力学（模拟液体和气体如何与固体物体相互作用）博士学位，并运营着一个受欢迎的网站 Turbli，旨在全面覆盖影响飞行的气象条件。在解释建立 Turbli 的原因时，Gallego-Marcos 表示：“以前只有飞行员能获得这些信息，但这对乘客也很有用——尤其是对于那些感到焦虑的人。”Turbli 每月有超过 30万,000 名用户，且人数仍在增长，恐惧飞行的乘客可以通过该网站查看天气和湍流图，以及哪些航线受干扰最严重。湍流发生在空气速度突然变化区域；喷流和山地波是两个最重要的因素。正因如此，Turbli 每年评选的平均湍流最高航线榜单中，充斥着飞越安第斯山脉和青藏高原的航班。

对于国际安全顾问兼风险专家劳埃德·菲金斯（Lloyd Figgins）来说，是一次飞越安第斯山脉的飞行让他产生了飞行恐惧症。作为一名频繁飞行者，菲金斯深知商业航空旅行是多么安全，但在一次飞往哥伦比亚的航班上，由湍流引起的突然且剧烈的高度下降改变了他的看法。“氧气 146 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL --- IMAGE GETTY ---

面罩掉了下来，随后出现了一些超现实的时刻：坐在我前面的女人的长发在她的头顶上方向上飘散；一瓶迷你约翰尼沃克（Johnny Walker）威士忌在托盘桌上方与眼睛齐高的地方悬浮着。”飞机安全着陆，没有受到任何损坏——商业飞机的设计能够承受远超甚至严重湍流的压力，而且湍流本身从未导致过现代商业飞机的坠毁。尽管如此，一种新的焦虑被触发了。直到 10 年后，在他最终参加了一个克服飞行恐惧症的课程后，他才痊愈。

湍流对我来说也是一个巨大的恐惧点。但在飞行过程中听到相关解释，有助于改变我对它的看法。EasyJet“无畏飞行者”课程的主管马克·温（Mark Wein）表示：“湍流是一件好事，一件极好的事；它标志着我们周围有空气，而飞行需要空气。”他接着解释了我们的感知如何让湍流感觉比实际情况更糟糕。“想象一下你开车去机场的路；那会比这次飞行更颠簸。”

航空公司培训其机组人员识别并支持紧张的乘客。英国航空在长途航班的娱乐套餐中加入了观看其“自信飞行”YouTube视频的权限。现在乘客也可以使用其他数字化解决方案。SkyGuru应用程序已积累了超过 20万,000 名用户，其运作方式就像——

左起：从伯明翰到波兰格但斯克的航线是欧洲湍流最少的航线之一；由于人们在疫情期间飞行次数减少，飞行焦虑在疫情期间及之后有所增加。前页：一架飞机正在安提瓜和巴布达上空准备着陆。

五条来自英国的低颠簸航线 根据 Turbli.com 的数据，这些短途航线的平均颠簸程度最低。它们较少遇到极地喷流或雷暴，且避开了主要山脉

曼彻斯特至塔林

选择在欧洲最顶级的圣诞市场期间访问，在老城的鹅卵石巷弄中漫步于中世纪的迷宫之中。

格拉斯哥至雷克雅未克

前往冰岛核心景点的完美基地：观鲸、在蓝色潟湖中浸浴以及追寻北极光。

伦敦至赫尔辛基

这座联合国教科文组织认定的设计之都展示了芬兰风格的精髓，拥有艺术画廊、时尚商店和工艺品店。随后，可以通过体验传统桑拿来温暖身心。

伦敦至斯德哥尔摩

游览这座瑞典首都的众多文化景点，包括诺贝尔奖博物馆、保存完好的 17 世纪战舰“瓦萨号”（Vasa）以及 ABBA 博物馆。

伯明翰至格但斯克

沿着波兰北部的琥珀之路旅行，参观附近马尔堡世界上最大的城堡，然后在波罗的海沿岸的海滩上放松身心。图片来源：GETTY 148 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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Expert Traveller。就像在手机里拥有了一位飞行员和一名治疗师。该项目于 2016 年推出，其功能包括实时解释飞机的噪音和动作，以及引导式的放松练习。

并非所有恐飞者都曾有过负面的飞行经历。其他课程参与者谈到了个人情况，例如成为父母改变了他们对生活的看法；如果发生意外，他们将失去更多，这让他们感到恐惧。另一位参与者提到新冠疫情对他们的影响；加强的安全措施、感染风险以及在封锁期间不习惯飞行，都导致了焦虑感的增加。在美国，关于“飞行安全吗？”的谷歌搜索在疫情期间达到顶峰。英国航空调整了其“自信飞行”课程，将针对新冠安全措施的安抚内容纳入其中。

尽管如此，布里斯托大学 2021 年一项关于乘客态度的调查发现，57.7% 的受访者认为，即使在接种疫苗后，他们在疫情后的飞行次数也会减少。虽然疫情后的情绪有所改善，但还存在其他因素。2025 年 2 月，在华盛顿特区波托马克河上空发生一起空中碰撞事故后不久，与飞行安全和焦虑相关的谷歌搜索再次激增。在 The Points Guy 2025 年的一项调查中，约 65% 的受访美国人表示，考虑到近期的事故，他们对飞行感到更加紧张，尽管这种交通方式仍然比其他方式安全得多。

这种焦虑在很大程度上源于任何事故的高度关注性。紧张的乘客不会想到每年有 3500 万 次商业航班安全完成旅程，而会将注意力集中在极少数未能安全抵达的航班上。人们容易被飞机失事画面吸引。一段关于 2025 年印度航空在艾哈迈达巴德失事的 YouTube 视频播放量已超过 2200 万 次。

每当发生事故，行业都会做出回应。英国政府航空事故调查局（AAIB）的航空事故首席调查员 Robert Balls 在其 2025 年年度安全回顾中指出，全球事故率在长期趋势上继续下降。Balls 写道，事故凸显了调查的核心目的，即“识别剩余的脆弱点，了解新风险并帮助防止未来再次发生”。

但或许最大的积极面在于，人们现在正采取更多行动来自救。由一名前航空公司飞行员创建的旨在帮助恐飞乘客的网站 Phobia.aero 的一项调查显示，新冠期间人们对心理健康问题的理解和接纳程度提高，导致寻求飞行焦虑治疗的人数增加了 35%。

飞行两天后，我询问了 Elias 的近况。EasyJet 的课程对他起作用了，就像对 95% 的参与者那样。他正在弥补失去的时间：“我 7 月要飞往葡萄牙，很快还要去法国。我下周要预订伊比萨岛的行程。”

而我呢？我正在规划下一次飞行，并确信任何动作或声音的变化都是完全正常的。

克服恐飞技巧

Rob Bor 教授是一位认证的临床和航空心理学家，致力于帮助人们克服飞行焦虑。

知识即力量

在飞行前，熟悉飞机将发出的声音和动作，这样它们就不会让你感到惊讶或恐惧。

接纳湍流

将飞机想象成处于一个气囊中，就像果冻里的一颗蓝莓。当果冻移动时，蓝莓在其中随之移动，但不会掉出来。

控制呼吸

放慢呼吸速度可以降低心率并让你冷静下来。有意识地管理呼吸，深而慢地吸气，然后完全呼出。

欺骗你的大脑

收紧并放松臀部可以欺骗中枢神经系统，因为当你焦虑时，身体会在潜意识中变得紧张。通过刻意地使身体某个部位紧张，你可以重新获得控制力。

参加飞行恐惧症课程

量身定制的课程可以揭开飞行体验的神秘面纱，教授应对焦虑的机制，并为紧张的乘客提供实操支持。

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资深旅行者。

装备清单

观鸟

这些物品将帮助你发现、识别并记录周围的鸟类生活——并在记录的同时保持舒适。

哈珀·柯林斯 (HARPER COLLINS) 英国鸟类识别指南

有了这本插图精美的书，你很快就能分辨出普通拟色鹬和山鹬。它为你提供了通过五个可见特征（包括喙形、翅膀图案和尾羽上的横纹）来识别英国每种鸟类的工具。£12.99。harpercollins.co.uk

RSPB 云雀双筒望远镜

这款入门级双筒望远镜足以媲美价格昂贵得多的选择。8x42 的放大倍率是扫描区域寻找鸟类生活的理想选择，在良好的稳定性和宽广的视野之间取得了平衡。它体积不过大，重量不过重，而且完全防水并填充了氮气，以防止在潮湿环境下起雾。£100。shopping.rspb.org.uk

CRAGHOPPERS NOSILIFE SOLARSHIELD+ 长袖 T 恤

这些技术面料上衣（提供短袖、长袖或半拉链款式）是在湿地、森林或烈日下观鸟时的实用全能之选。它们具有吸湿排汗、驱虫功能，并获得了英国皮肤基金会的防晒认证。£50。craghoppers.com

FIELD NOTES ORIGINAL KRAFT

创始人 Aaron Draglin 创作的第一本 Field Notes 备忘录是送给朋友的礼物，用于记录他们在自然界中的观察结果。该品牌的 Original Kraft 笔记本现在看起来依然差不多——口袋大小，带有 48 页防污页面（方格、横线或空白），用于记录目击到的鸟类。三本一组 £12.45。wildbounds.com

WALKSTOOL COMFORT 55

任何热衷于观鸟的人都知道耐心是关键。瑞典专业品牌 Walkstool 推出的这款便携式铝制网格凳便应运而生，部分款式可支撑高达 250kg 的重量。只需释放三根伸缩腿并将其延伸至卡入到位即可——它们可以折叠回一个紧凑的袋子中。55（中号）售价 £105。oakwoodoptix.co.uk

MERLIN 鸟类识别 APP

这款由康奈尔大学开发的免费应用可以通过聆听鸟鸣来识别 2,000 多种鸟类，覆盖多个大洲。你可以保存录音以便稍后回放，并将你听过的所有鸟类添加到“生命清单”中。此外还有一个指南可以帮助你确定你发现的是哪个物种。merlin.allaboutbirds.org

FJÄLLRÄVEN 格陵兰单肩包

这款 12 升的包可以装下你所有的观鸟装备。它由耐用的 G-1000 面料制成，具有防水和快干特性。六个口袋——背面一个小的，加上内部的拉链隔层——有助于整理贵重物品和零食、防晒霜等必需品。£129。fjallraven.com

尼康 (NIKON) FIELDSCOPE ED50

当你的双筒望远镜无法覆盖足够距离时，你可以依靠这款单筒望远镜，为远至 52 米的鸟类提供卓越的细节水平。虽然你需要为目镜（单独销售）预留预算，但 ED50 仍然比许多同类型号更实惠——而且其防水性能意味着它可能会在你的装备中陪伴你多年。£449。nikon.co.uk

价格在印刷时正确。 文字：国家地理旅行者（英国）团队： 图片：KOSTADIN LUCHANSKY / ANGOLA IMAGE BANK

150 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

超越旅行

线上内容有哪些？访问 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM，探索专家们如何揭开地球的奥秘，包括奥卡万戈三角洲的起源和神秘的纳斯卡线

科学

奥卡万戈荒野揭开秘密 每年十月，当雨季席卷南部非洲，注入奥卡万戈三角洲的河流会漫出河岸，淹没 11,000 平方英里的区域。由于在这片水域中航行极其困难，这里的许多生命形式长期以来一直是个谜。甚至连三角洲河流的源头也让探险家们难以捉摸。这里没有冰川、雪峰或冰洞：水路是如何在漫长的旱季依然能自由流动的？十多年来，一支研究团队一直在南部非洲探索寻找答案。他们的工作带来了一次终生难忘的发现。

历史

在 AI 的帮助下揭秘纳斯卡线 人工智能极大地加速了秘鲁南部地画的发现。在短短六个月内，人们就在纳斯卡沙漠中识别出了 300 多个刻痕图案，几乎使此前已知数量翻了一番。这些新发现的符号——展示了驯养动物、拟人形象和人类头部——规模相对较小，其作用可能与该地区最著名的那些庞大图像截然不同。最新的发现为目录增添了令人瞩目的内容，并可能有助于解开围绕这些神秘设计的谜团。

动物

这些可爱的鹦鹉能独立生存吗？ 当一个物种的数量下降到两位数时，通常意味着灭绝在即。但得益于新西兰保护团队采取的非凡措施，极度濒危的鸮鹦鹉（kākāpō）——一种夜行性、不会飞行且带有浓郁甜味的鹦鹉——正在经历一场艰苦赢得的复兴。随着一场可能使种群数量增加高达 40% 的婴儿潮正在进行，鸮鹦鹉的守护者们面临着一个新问题：如何在不将其推回灭绝边缘的情况下，让一个物种脱离密集的人工支持？

SEPTEMBER 2026 151

专家旅行者。背后的故事

月饼

随着中秋节的临近，我们深入探讨中国文化中最具传奇色彩的甜点。

很久以前，一位名叫后羿的神射手拉开长弓，凭借精湛的箭术，射下了灼烧下方农田的 10 个太阳中的 9 个。他的奖励是？永生。遗憾的是，他得到的仙药并非由后羿服下，而是由他的妻子嫦娥服下，她的灵魂随即飘向月亮并在那里定居。心碎的后羿决定准备一些可能让这位新任月亮女神想起地球的食物。其中一种就是圆形的填馅糕点，此后它成为了中秋节的标志性甜点。中秋节是一个古老的丰收庆典，中国、台湾以及整个中华文化圈的人们会在此期间聚集在一起，举行家庭盛宴，观看舞龙，并赏月。

月饼在唐朝（公元 618–907 年）统治期间真正流行起来，皇帝会在农历八月十五日将它们分发给臣民。在唐代，月饼仅包含种子、坚果或肉类。但如果传说属实，到 14 世纪，月饼中被塞入了更具煽动性的东西：催促人们反抗中国新统治者——元朝的纸条信息。这种在每家每户之间交换以庆祝丰收的甜点，成为了革命的完美载体。事实证明这确实奏效了。元朝被明朝（公元 1368–1644 年）取代，到那时，月饼本身已被赋予了深意——糕点师在饼皮上印上文字和符号，以祝愿亲友繁荣昌盛。

这些符号一直延续至今，许多传统的馅料也同样如此，包括带有咸鸭蛋黄的白莲蓉。内部发现的蛋黄越多，预示着来年越繁荣。对于某些人来说，与后来从烤箱中诞生的各种版本相比，这些传统口味已显得陈旧。在中秋节期间走进台北、香港或新加坡的糕点店，你会发现用曲奇饼皮、冰淇淋、果冻、香槟甚至海蜗牛制成的月饼。尽管如此，月饼依然发挥着它一贯的功能：在丰收之月的月光下锻造团圆。

尝试一下： 月饼通常在中秋节前一个月出现在糕点店中，今年的中秋节是在 25 September。在北京的胡同（传统巷弄）里，月饼随处可见，但在任何中华文化扎根的地方，你几乎都能找到它们。

SAM KEMP

180 万 2023 年香港家庭消费月饼的估计盒数

秋 汉字“qiū”（autumn）

4 人们通常将月饼切成 4 块，家人在喝茶时分享这款甜点

152 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL

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如何

智能拍摄

这些简单的步骤可以帮助您充分利用智能手机，将一张不错的照片变为一张伟大的作品。拍摄一张高分辨率的照片只需简单地点击一个数字按钮。虽然手机相机的图像质量和控制水平无法与单反（DSLR）或无反系统相媲美，但苹果（Apple）、三星（Samsung）、谷歌（Google）和小米（Xiaomi）等制造商正在推出功能不断增强的机型，迅速缩小了曾经定义该媒介的局限性。然而，捕捉一张引人入胜的图像仍然需要技术知识、练习和创意触感。

首先，了解您的相机设置和属性。不同的机型具有不同的传感器尺寸、像素数、镜头选项、拍摄模式、AI能力和编辑工具。一旦您知道您的手机能做什么，接下来的任务就是——拍摄照片。手机在设计上较为紧凑，传感器相对较小，这意味着图像质量较低。通过缩放（zoom in），您实际上是在进一步减少照片中的像素数量。在可能的情况下，请在物理距离上靠近拍摄对象。如果无法实现，通常更好的做法是拍摄一张远景照片，然后进行裁剪。

实现构图平衡的一个简单指南是遵循三分法——这是一个您可以在智能手机设置中开启或关闭的网格。它将场景分为两条水平线和两条垂直线。将拍摄对象放置在这些线条上或其交点处，通常能创造出更具视觉吸引力的效果。

虽然手机在校正光线方面旨在承担繁重的工作，但在恶劣条件下，手动操纵光线可以带来天壤之别。最简单的方法是调整曝光度——当您点击屏幕对焦时会出现一个太阳滑块——以此来调亮或调暗您的照片。

任何严肃的摄影师都会告诉您，磨练技巧的最佳方法就是每天拍摄。最好的相机就是您随身携带的那一台——而大多数情况下，那就是您手中的智能手机。

AISHA NAZAR

实用技巧...

低光环境

手机在处理光线方面必须比数码相机付出更多努力，尤其是在捕捉黑暗场景时，最轻微的颤抖都可能导致图像模糊或失焦。三脚架可以提供帮助——Joby和Benro等品牌提供如可弯曲支脚（可包裹在物体周围）等附加功能。

拍摄野生动物

如果您在进行野生动物游猎或观鸟之旅，请尝试将手机贴在双筒望远镜的目镜上（避免直接接触，以免损坏镜头）。结果不会完美——预计会出现一些暗角——但这种近距离视角值得一试。

专业拍摄

部分手机允许您使用“手动”（有时称为“专业”）模式拍摄，这让您可以更改ISO和快门速度。如果您的手机不支持，您可以在Adobe的Lightroom Mobile等应用程序中实现。通过手机设置或相机应用开启RAW文件，以保存未经处理的照片数据，从而提供更大的后期处理灵活性——但请注意，这将增加文件大小。

编辑

调整颜色或完全去除颜色，提升或加深阴影，并尝试对比度和高光。有大量工具可供选择：Snapseed是一个免费、优秀且易于使用的选项；对于资深爱好者，Lightroom Mobile提供了更大的灵活性，并可与桌面应用程序同步。

图片来源：ALAMY; GETTY 2026年9月 153

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CamperDays

世界在...

开放之路

有些最美好的旅行回忆并非在目的地发现，而是在旅途中。一条穿过托斯卡纳乡村的静谧小路。一次在山顶村庄的意外停留。一场俯瞰地中海的日落。房车旅行赋予你随好奇心而行的自由。从意大利开始，然后继续探索：一次一条路，一种风景，一场难忘的旅程。你的冒险由此开始。

预订金额 £999 及以上，使用代码 26CDT 可节省 £100。

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

TRAVELLER

ITALY COLLECTION

目录

158 BORGO SAN FELICE RESORT 160 ESPLANADE TERGESTEO 161 FALKENSTEINER HOTEL KRONPLATZ 162 THE EXCELSIOR, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, FLORENCE 164 GREAT RAIL JOURNEYS 165 HOTEL URBANA 166 LIGURIA REGION 168 PARKHOTEL LAURIN 169 SAILING COLLECTIVE 170 SAVORING SLOWLY 171 TRAVELSPHERE

图片-GETTY 此内容为付费广告。它不一定反映国家地理、国家地理旅者（英国版）或其编辑人员的观点。

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伦巴第大区的紫色湖泊被壮丽的山峰环绕。

ITALY COLLECTION

意大利的隐秘水道

虽然意大利的湖区长期以来一直具有迷人的吸引力，但该国那些较少为人所知的水道能提供更私密的体验——以及窥见地道当地生活的机会。

文字：Angelina Villa-Clarke

意大利湖区的魅力可追溯到罗马时代，当时贵族们退隐到科莫湖和加尔达湖如镜的水面边，以逃避南方的酷暑。19世纪末，富有的贵族和艺术家开始在该地区度假，将其转变为欧洲最负盛名的目的地之一。如今，游客们依然成群结队地前往该国最受欢迎的湖泊，每年抵达的人数以百万计。但意大利境内散布着许多较少为人所知的湖泊、潟湖、河流和瀑布，为旅行者提供了消暑、亲近自然以及在远离人群之处寻找宁静时刻的机会。

明乔河，伦巴第

明乔河从加尔达湖向南流出，在伦巴第大区蜿蜒约 46 英里，随后在文艺复兴小镇曼图亚周围形成三个湖泊。对于骑行者来说，有一条风景优美的 28 英里路径沿河延伸，起点为加尔达湖畔的佩斯基耶拉（位于加尔达湖口，距离维罗纳机场约半小时车程）。这条骑行道蜿蜒经过罂粟花田、古老的防御工事和意大利一些最美丽的村庄，被誉为该国最长的“绿色高速公路”。在明乔河畔的瓦莱焦停留，用一盘当地特色菜——肉馅意大利饺（通常盛在清汤中）来补充能量。在曼图亚，探索宏伟的宫殿、铺满鹅卵石的广场以及周围的三个湖泊——上湖、中湖和下湖，这些湖泊建于12世纪，旨在保护这座城市。如今，这些湖泊提供划船和皮划艇等活动。

北部潟湖，威尼托

威尼斯市由分布在亚得里亚海威尼斯潟湖中的 118 个岛屿组成。穆拉诺岛和利多岛已是游人如织，但向北深入的旅行者将抵达一个远离威尼斯圣马可广场等热门景点的世界。在这里，狭窄的运河向更宽广的潟湖敞开，渔民们在泥滩上捕捉软壳蟹和虾虎鱼（一种常用于制作意式炖饭的当地鱼类）。在托尔切洛岛（可通过威尼斯的 vaporetti 水上巴士系统轻松抵达），游客可以沿着安静的步道漫步，参观圣玛利亚升天圣殿，其西墙上描绘了最后的审判，并拥有珍贵的拜占庭马赛克。该教堂可追溯至公元 639 年，是威尼斯潟湖中最古老的教堂。

伦巴第，波尔奇莱湖 (LAKES OF PORCILE, LOMBARDY)

在伦巴第的奥罗比阿尔卑斯山脉中，隐藏着一组可能是意大利最不为人知的秘密湖泊。波尔奇莱湖位于科莫湖东北方向一个多小时的车程外，能提供一种更为远离尘嚣的体验。这些山地湖泊位于海拔 2,000 米以上，景色绝美，雪峰环绕着翡翠色的湖水。对于徒步旅行者来说，每个湖泊周围都有难度不同的路线。塔塔诺 (Tartano) 这个阿尔卑斯村庄是一个理想的据点，它不仅以田园风光著称，还拥有一座长 234 米的西藏桥——“天空之桥” (Ponte nel Cielo)，该桥悬挂在距离谷底 140 米的高空，令人心惊胆战。旅行者全年都可以跨越这座桥，远眺坎波山口 (Campo Pass)、雷蒂阿尔卑斯山 (Rhaetian Alps) 和奥罗比谷 (Orobie Valley)。

奥斯塔谷，费尔河 (TORRENTE FER, AOSTA VALLEY)

这条潺潺流淌的河流位于意大利西北角与皮埃蒙特的交界处，在光滑的巨石和嶙峋的岩石之间形成了天然的水池和瀑布。这里是野泳和峡谷探险的热门地点，旅行者可以在夏季沿着河岸寻找更安静的去处。凭借其巨大的落差和深邃的峡谷，费尔河在悬崖跳水爱好者中也很受欢迎，不过建议聘请当地导游。可以将附近的多纳斯 (Donnas) 作为据点，在水边度过一天后，回到镇上品尝该地区著名的巴罗洛 (barolo) 或巴尔巴雷斯科 (barbaresco) 葡萄酒，这些酒均由当地的内比奥罗 (nebbiolo) 葡萄酿造。

高拉齐奥，博尔塞纳湖 (LAKE BOLSENA, ALTO LAZIO)

博尔塞纳湖位于罗马以北不到两小时车程，虽然它可能是欧洲最大的火山湖，但依然散发着一种尚未被发掘的气息。该湖长近 8 英里，宽 7 英里，四周环绕着黑沙滩和历史悠久的村庄。这里是罗马人喜爱的周末度假地，并被誉为意大利最干净的湖泊之一。它的魅力很大程度上源于晶莹剔透的湖水和安静的海滩，例如卡波迪蒙特 (Capodimonte)。从这里，游客可以乘坐渡轮前往现已无人居住的比森蒂纳岛 (Bisentina Island)，该岛在但丁的《神曲》中被提及。在导游的带领下，旅行者可以探索该岛独特的火山地形和古老的礼拜堂。

IMAGE GETTY

I PAID CONTENT

Borgo San Felice 度假村

这座位于基安蒂经典产区 (Chianti Classico) 核心地带的庄园由一个修复后的村落组成，让客人在感受地道托斯卡纳村庄氛围的同时，探索意大利最著名的葡萄酒产区之一。

体验

在基安蒂经典产区（Chianti Classico）起伏的葡萄园中，两旁种满丝柏树的道路将中世纪村庄连接在一起，数百年的农业传统塑造了这里的日常生活。Borgo San Felice 度假村坐落在一个修复后的中世纪小村庄中，为游客提供一次沉浸式的托斯卡纳乡村之旅。

圣费利切（San Felice）的起源可追溯到一千多年前。考古发现表明该地区曾有伊特鲁里亚人的定居点，而书面记录早在公元八世纪就提到了这个村庄。随着时间的推移，这个小村庄围绕着农业、葡萄栽培和贸易发展起来，这种特质至今仍体现在其石造建筑、狭窄的小巷和温馨的广场中。

经过大规模修复，这个村庄被改造成为一家 albergo diffuso（分散式酒店）——客房和套房被整合在整个历史定居点之中，而非集中在单一的建筑结构内。旅行者会感觉自己是托斯卡纳村庄的一员，而非度假村的客人。

更广阔的基安蒂经典产区是托斯卡纳最值得造访的目的地之一。附近的拉达（Radda）、加约莱（Gaiole）和基安蒂的卡斯特利纳（Castellina in Chianti）等村庄展现了由数世纪的酿酒业和乡村生活所塑造的景观。风景优美的道路蜿蜒穿过葡萄园、橄榄林和顶端矗立着城堡的山丘，让旅行者有机会探索当地生产者，在传统的小餐馆（trattorias）用餐，并欣赏全景视角。

季节性传统在整个地区发挥着重要作用。秋季带来了葡萄收获和松露季；当地市场展示的产品涵盖了从佩科里诺（pecorino）奶酪、橄榄油到手工糕点和地区葡萄酒。这些习俗定义了托斯卡纳乡村的日常生活，并将游客与这里的文化联系在一起。

卓越之选

Borgo San Felice 度假村位于卡斯特尔努奥沃·贝拉登加（Castelnuovo Berardenga）附近，将历史悠久的 borgo（村庄）特色与现代五星级度假村的舒适感相结合。在该物业的 63 间客房和套房中，橡木、赤陶、洞石和手工陶瓷反映了乡村的色彩与材质。

葡萄酒是 Borgo San Felice 故事的核心。该庄园占地 1,700 英亩，在现代托斯卡纳酿酒业的演变中发挥了重要作用。圣费利切长期以来被公认为桑娇维塞（sangiovese）葡萄的捍卫者，帮助基安蒂经典产区建立了新的质量标准。

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您知道吗？研究一直是 Borgo San Felice 身份的核心。通过与当地大学的合作，这里恢复并保护了稀有的本土葡萄品种。在庄园对现代意大利葡萄酒历史的贡献中，Vigorello 占据重要地位。这款混酿酒创立于 1968 年，被公认为第一款超级托斯卡纳（Super Tuscan）葡萄酒。它的诞生为超级托斯卡纳运动铺平了道路，该运动从 1960 年代后期一直持续到 1970 年代。这些大胆的新型葡萄酒突破了基安蒂 DOC（Chianti DOC）产区严格的法规。如今，该庄园包含三家不同的酒庄：位于基安蒂经典产区（Chianti Classico）的 San Felice，位于蒙塔奇诺（Montalcino）的 Campogiovanni，以及位于波尔盖里（Bolgheri）的 Bell'Aja。通过导览品鉴、葡萄园漫步、酒窖参观和桶装采样，游客可以了解到不同的土壤、气候和传统如何塑造出意大利一些最著名的葡萄酒。美食同样是体验中至关重要的一部分。在度假村的米其林星级餐厅 Poggio Rosso，主厨 Stelios Sakalis 将托斯卡纳食材与更广泛的地中海影响相结合。与此同时，Osteria Il Grigio 则提供轻松的氛围，在葡萄藤环绕的露台上供应传统的托斯卡纳菜肴、烧烤特色菜和木火披萨。除了美食，The Botanic Spa 占据了庄园原有的橄榄油磨坊，其原始建筑元素为健康护理、桑拿和放松区域营造了独特的环境。包括网球、骑行、徒步和葡萄园漫步在内的户外活动，让客人在周围的乡村中尽情运动。borgosanfelice.com

另外三项推荐活动

探索锡耶纳的

历史街区

锡耶纳与托斯卡纳乡村形成了鲜明的对比。深入了解这座城市的 contrade——即在著名的帕利奥（Palio）赛马比赛中竞争的社区。博物馆、历史总部和当地传统提供了洞察数百年公民文化的视角。

参加一次松露猎寻

在基安蒂丘陵

在秋季，游客可以进入基安蒂周围的林地，寻找托斯卡纳最珍贵的烹饪宝藏之一——黑松露。松露猎人及其训练有素的猎犬会帮助客人在森林和葡萄藤之间寻找这些美味。

参加一次越野之旅

穿越基安蒂经典产区

乘坐路虎卫士（Land Rover Defender）沿着托斯卡纳著名的 strade bianche（“白色道路”）旅行。这个由未铺砌的乡间小路组成的网络为旅行者提供了观察该地区的独特视角——探索基安蒂经典产区的葡萄园、中世纪村庄和隐藏角落。

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Esplanade Tergesteo

这个奢华的度假胜地向客人介绍古罗马的热浴传统，同时为探索威尼托（Veneto）著名的艺术城市、中世纪村庄以及欧根尼山脉（Euganean Hills）的火山景观提供理想的基地。

体验

该度假胜地位于威尼托中心地带的温泉小镇蒙特格罗托泰尔梅（Montegrotto Terme），周围环绕着古老的欧根尼山脉，这是一个 3500 万 年前形成的卓越火山地貌。这些独特的地质条件孕育了欧洲最著名的自然宝藏之一：从地下深处涌出、温度高达 87℃ 的温泉水。几个世纪以来，这些富含矿物质的水因其修复特性而备受推崇。如今，客人们可以在镇中心欣赏古罗马浴场的考古遗迹，这证明了延续数千年的健康传统。

卓越之选

Esplanade Tergesteo 以当代奢华、身心健康和个性化款待的愿景，重新诠释了这一古老的遗产。这家度假酒店的核心是一组温泉池，宾客可以在这里全年享受露天沐浴，周围环绕着欧根尼（Euganean）景观的宁静之美。仅限成人的 RoofTop54 Spa 提供一个全景盐水池、芬兰桑拿房、土耳其浴（hammam）、红外线舱和令人振奋的冷水池，所有这些设施都配有俯瞰起伏丘陵的壮丽景色。

身心健康延伸至餐饮体验。标志性的“悠长早餐”（Long Breakfast）鼓励宾客悠闲地开启一天，而 Bistrò54 则在优雅的池畔环境中提供精致的轻食。Pepita 餐厅通过创意当代料理，将地区风味与国际影响力相结合。Vital Spa 套房配备私人桑拿房、户外小型泳池和木柴壁炉，而与专家共同开发的定制健康计划，则鼓励宾客在回家后继续保持健康习惯。Esplanade Tergesteo 将温泉传统与当代奢华相结合，提供一次深度恢复身心的逃离之旅。esplanadetergesteo.it

内行建议

花时间去探索 Arquà Petrarca、Monselice 和 Este 这些中世纪村庄。每一个村庄都能让人们窥见威尼托（Veneto）丰富遗产的不同侧面。漫步在 Arquà Petrarca 的鹅卵石小巷和橄榄林中，或探索 Monselice 保存完好的城墙中心、山顶城堡以及 Monte Ricco 徒步路线。Este 小镇则以其令人印象深刻的古代防御工事和优雅的花园而闻名。这些迷人的小镇从 Montegrotto Terme 出发，乘坐汽车或公共交通均可轻松抵达，它们都展现了该地区更缓慢、更真实的一面。

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Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz

这家阿尔卑斯度假酒店位于意大利多洛米蒂山脉（Dolomites）的核心地带，邀请宾客探索该地区著名的滑雪道，并挖掘南蒂罗尔（South Tyrol）独特的遗产。

体验

意大利东北部的南蒂罗尔地区兼具阿尔卑斯和地中海的影响。传统的村庄、山间小屋和当地市场让游客能够深入了解该地区的日常生活，以及意大利与奥地利遗产的迷人融合。Kronplatz 度假区是全年探索这种文化的理想之地。Kronplatz 地区海拔 2,275 米，拥有近 75 英里的雪道可供探索，使其成为滑雪者的天堂；而在夏季，徒步旅行者和骑行者可以穿越山峰、森林和阿尔卑斯草甸。Kronplatz 的顶峰拥有不寻常的高原地貌，为旅行者提供了享受多洛米蒂山脉 360 度全景的宽广空间。

卓越之选

在山脚下，作为全球领先酒店联盟（The Leading Hotels of the World）成员的 Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz 无论在夏季还是冬季都充满活力。该酒店由建筑师 Matteo Thun 设计，完美融合了其地理位置；巨大的窗户将壮丽的山景框入其中，而大地色调和温暖的木材营造出一种随季节微妙变化的宁静氛围。酒店可直接进入滑雪区的核心地带。馆内的缆车票、设备租赁服务和专用储物室让宾客能够最大限度地利用在山上的时间。回到酒店，Acquapura Summit Spa 顶楼泳池和放松区的全景视野，为户外活跃的一天提供了平静的对比。酒店的特质由“75Summits”哲学塑造：多洛米蒂山脉的每一座标志性山峰都讲述着不同的故事，而这些故事则体现在酒店的烹饪创意和精心策划的活动中。酒店与其周围环境的这种联系在餐厅中尤为明显，这里将南蒂罗尔的传统与古老的影响相结合。菜单以季节性食材、地区特色菜肴和精选葡萄酒为特色。为了进一步探索南蒂罗尔，酒店的体验礼宾司（Experience Concierge）可随时提供帮助，组织一系列多洛米蒂体验活动，从向导带领的日出徒步和山地骑行，到冰川之旅、滑雪巡游和文化远足。falkensteiner.com / hotel-kronplatz

另外三项推荐活动

探索登山博物馆

在 Kronplatz 山顶，参观 Messner Mountain Museum Corones。这是登山家 Reinhold Messner 博物馆系列的第六个分馆。该博物馆坐落在该地区雄伟的山峰之间，详细介绍了登山运动的纪律、历史和传统。

欣赏震撼的山岳摄影

通过位于 Kronplatz 山顶的 Lumen Mountain Photography 博物馆的常设和临时展览，探索阿尔卑斯文化。不要错过不断变化的镜像室，那里展出了稀有的山岳摄影文物。

发现当地传统

探索南蒂罗尔的村庄、市场和传统的山间小屋。从 10 月到 11 月，游客可以与当地人一起庆祝 Törggelen（葡萄酒和栗子收获节），在一次扎实的徒步之后，在质朴的农舍酒馆或餐厅享用包含当地农产品的温馨晚餐。

图片来源：FALKENSTEINER HOTELS AND RESIDENCES, ISTOCK 161

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佛罗伦萨 The Excelsior, a Luxury Collection Hotel

The Excelsior 坐落在阿诺河（Arno River）北岸，通过其优雅的设计和广泛的艺术收藏，向这座城市的文艺复兴历史和著名的创意场景致敬。

体验

佛罗伦萨被誉为文化和工艺的摇篮。作为文艺复兴的发源地，它对艺术、文学、哲学和科学产生了深远影响。在阿诺河两岸，游客可以发现佛罗伦萨丰富的历史，欣赏卓越的艺术和建筑——从标志性的圣母百花大教堂（Santa Maria del Fiore，更广为人知的名称是 Duomo），到收藏有波提切利、米开朗基罗和列奥纳多·达·芬奇等文艺复兴大师名作的乌菲齐美术馆（Uffizi Gallery）。就在历史中心之外，Ognissanti 社区以其丰富的遗产和宏伟的教堂而闻名，其中展出了乔托、波提切利和吉兰达约的作品。

一个出众之选

The Excelsior 酒店坐落在阿诺河北岸一座历史悠久的宫殿中——距离著名的老桥（Ponte Vecchio，一座中世纪石拱桥，也是佛罗伦萨的关键象征）仅几步之遥——它深深地融入了这座城市的文化与艺术肌理之中。酒店的 171 间客房和套房采用时代风格装饰，让访客得以窥见佛罗伦萨的传统。The Excelsior 的套房可俯瞰阿诺河、蜿蜒的中世纪街道以及远处的起伏丘陵。总统套房拥有宽敞的环绕式露台，是举行私密日落晚餐的理想之选；而 Belvedere 套房则提供了俯瞰佛罗伦萨主要地标和托斯卡纳乡村的无敌景观。

无论是在酒店内部还是外部，宾客都可以参与各种地道的体验——从烹饪工作坊到重点展示佛罗伦萨手工艺传统的之旅。每天，礼宾团队都会带领宾客进行“目的地探索”（Destination Discovery）：这是一次沉浸式之旅，旨在揭秘这座宫殿的历史以及周边社区鲜为人知的宝藏。行程结束后，宾客将被邀请前往图书馆的隐藏酒吧，品尝一道传统的托斯卡纳食谱，并配上一杯当地产的葡萄酒。

就在酒店几步之遥的地方，宾客可以探索大理石纹纸艺术——这是这座城市最古老且最具 162 --- # 您知道吗？ # 探索历史街区 Ognissanti 区曾是薄伽丘（Boccaccio）家族的故居，建立了与文学艺术的早期联系；乔万尼·薄伽丘（Giovanni Boccaccio）是 14 世纪的诗人，以其故事集《十日谈》（The Decameron）而闻名。该街区还曾是探险家亚美利哥·韦斯普奇（Amerigo Vespucci）的故居，他在 15 世纪末和 16 世纪初开启了前往美洲的航行。北美洲和南美洲这两个大洲便是以他的名字命名的。

代表性的装饰工艺——并创作一件原创的大理石纹艺术品带回家。在探索完佛罗伦萨历史遗迹的一天后，宾客可以在酒店大堂的 Donatello 酒吧享受迷人的氛围、服务和调酒艺术。

酒店的屋顶酒吧兼餐厅 Cosimo 由行政主厨 Marco Migliorati 领导，邀请宾客品尝根植于托斯卡纳传统的菜肴——例如 bistecca di Cosimo，这是该市著名的牛排菜肴 bistecca alla fiorentina 的一个版本。餐厅的名字是为了向文艺复兴时期的标志性人物、权力、赞助和开明远见的象征科西莫·德·美第奇（Cosimo de' Medici）致敬。

夜幕降临，宾客可以在露台上享用鸡尾酒，看着太阳在城市上空落下。酒吧的调酒致敬了美第奇家族的花园，招牌饮品包括 Contessina 和 Il Giardino Segreto。酒吧经理 Antonino Di Girolamo 从季节性食材、本土利口酒、香料和草药中汲取灵感，在每一件作品中向佛罗伦萨致敬。

另外三件值得做的事

参加私人步行游

漫步在城市的历史街道上，感受文艺复兴时期的杰作、卓越的建筑和数百年的历史是如何交织在一起的。在被列入联合国教科文组织名录的历史中心（Centro Storico）中，必看景点包括拥有城市标志性大教堂的主教座堂广场（Piazza del Duomo）以及 14 世纪的旧宫（Palazzo Vecchio）。

通过手工艺工作坊探索佛罗伦萨

开启一次个性化的地道佛罗伦萨工作坊之旅，沉浸在它们历史悠久的工作室中。皮革、金饰和陶瓷仅是这座城市最著名的几种工艺。访客可以与当地工匠见面，观看他们使用古老技术创作经久耐用的作品。

参观世界上最古老的药店之一

在圣玛利亚诺维拉香药房（Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella）探索一项早于文艺复兴时期的传统。旅行者可以参观由多明我会修士于 1221 年创建的原始修道院，并见证这家药店如何演变成一家备受赞誉的香水店。图片：MATTHEW SHAW, MARTINO DINI, GETTY 163 --- 付费内容

Great Rail Journeys

从托斯卡纳的起伏丘陵到俯瞰地中海的色彩斑斓的悬崖小镇，意大利最令人印象深刻的景观可以通过火车轻松探索

体验

意大利的吸引力如此广泛，以至于选择去哪里以及如何前往可能会让人觉得是一项艰巨的任务。是对维苏威火山爆发期间被保存下来的罗马城市感兴趣，但同时也对西西里岛着迷？是渴望探索托斯卡纳著名的景点，但同时也热衷于揭秘艾米利亚-罗马涅的“美食谷”？这里有适合每位旅行者风格的意大利目的地——而该国的铁路网络让深入探索意大利的景观变得轻而易举。

卓越之选

Great Rail Journeys 提供意大利最热门城市及其鲜为人知的高光景点的陪同游。城市之旅展示了佛罗伦萨、比萨、罗马和威尼斯的奇迹，并由导游提供当地见解。夜幕降临，旅行者可以漫步在月光照耀下的穆拉诺（Murano）运河边（威尼斯泻湖中的一个岛屿），或欣赏佛罗伦萨大教堂在蓝白色光芒映衬下的夜景。在托斯卡纳，旅行者可以骑行在卢卡的中世纪城墙周围，或在山城圣吉米尼亚诺参加一个亲手制作披萨的课程。在翁布里亚，游客可以漫步在斯佩洛（Spello）的鹅卵石街道上（意大利最美丽的村庄之一），或在翁布里亚的首府佩鲁贾探索该地区的巧克力制作传统。在意大利北部，行程将带领旅行者前往几个几个世纪以来一直启发艺术家的湖泊。奥尔塔湖（Lake Orta）让旅行者能够穿越时空，在滨水广场上尽享修道院的景色。曼图亚拥有三个环绕湖泊和文艺复兴时期的建筑，同样值得探索，此外还有萨洛（Salò）——以其沿加尔达湖西岸的风景如画的散步道而闻名。向东南部移动，旅行者可以在萨伦托的橄榄油品鉴活动中体验普利亚独特的饮食，或在以圆锥形 trulli 房屋著称的阿尔贝罗贝洛享用传统午餐。若想领略意大利最绚丽的风景，请前往点缀在利古里亚海岸线的五渔村（Cinque Terre）那些色彩柔和的村庄。这些渔业社区最适合从沿着意大利里维埃拉运行的铁路线欣赏。凭借 50 年以上的经验，Great Rail Journeys 在知识渊博的行程经理和精心策划的体验帮助下，确保旅行者能看到意大利真实的一面。greatrail.com

另外三件事

探索卡拉布里亚的瑰宝

在卡拉布里亚最大的城市雷焦卡拉布里亚，漫步在被称为“意大利最美的一公里”的林荫大道上。前往这座海滨城市的铁路路线风景尤为迷人，可以透过墨西拿海峡远眺西西里岛和埃特纳火山。

品味皮埃蒙特之味

位于意大利西北部、被低估的皮埃蒙特地区已成为著名的美食和美酒目的地。阿尔巴镇（位于该地区首府都灵的东南部）尤其以红葡萄酒闻名，这些葡萄酒由内比奥（nebbio）葡萄酿造，带有玫瑰、樱桃和松露的香气。

. 今天，游客可以参观庄园，品尝当地葡萄酒，并在露台上（可俯瞰周围的葡萄园）或在酒窖中享用晚餐。 164 图片：GETTY, ADOBE --- 付费内容

Hotel Urbana

凭借其深厚的底蕴和19世纪的建筑风格，这家 Tribute Portfolio 酒店将历史建筑的优雅与罗马充满活力的蒙蒂（Monti）社区的文化特色完美融合。

体验

蒙蒂区是罗马最充满活力的社区之一，位于斗兽场与纳齐奥纳莱大道（Via Nazionale）之间。该社区拥有多处重要的文化和历史地标，包括城市最古老的基督教礼拜场所之一的圣普登齐亚纳大教堂（Basilica di Santa Pudenziana），以及罗马四大教宗大教堂之一的圣玛利亚大教堂（Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore）。漫步在蒙蒂区，可以发现罗马历史的重重叠影，古老的遗迹与文艺复兴时期的教堂与时尚的葡萄酒吧、传统的小餐馆（trattorias）以及当代画廊共存。

卓越之选

Hotel Urbana 是一家坐落在这个热闹区域的精品酒店。该建筑最初由 Costanzi 家族于 1860 年委托建造，由著名的罗马建筑师 Gaetano Koch 设计，是 19 世纪罗马建筑的典型代表。在经过大规模修复后，该酒店于 2026 年作为万豪国际旗下的 Tribute Portfolio 酒店重新开业，拥有 66 间客房，以及健身中心、水疗中心、酒吧、屋顶露台和餐厅。所有设施的设计都旨在将现代舒适感与建筑的历史特质相结合。酒店内部装饰有由意大利当地艺术家创作的精选艺术品，而套房的天花板则装饰着 Annibale Brugnoli 的原作壁画，这位意大利画家以其美好时代（belle époque）风格和统一后的装饰折衷主义而闻名。精致的社交空间进一步提升了酒店体验，包括提供招牌鸡尾酒和美食轻食的目的地酒吧，以及可以俯瞰圣普登齐亚纳大教堂钟楼的内庭院。Spritzeria Urbana 屋顶露台在提供开胃酒（aperitivo）和鸡尾酒的同时，可将城市的全景以及附近的圣玛利亚大教堂尽收眼底。

您知道吗？

根据传说，罗马女神维纳斯种植了第一颗石榴，并将其定为罗马生育力与神圣好客的终极象征。在许多文化中，向他人赠送石榴是一种欢迎的姿态，也是对好运的祝愿。如今，这一神话遗产在 Hotel Urbana 绽放，石榴已成为该酒店的标志性象征。在酒店的目的地酒吧，旅行者可以通过一杯清爽的石榴鸡尾酒，探索古罗马的这种地道风味。

IMAGES: HOTEL URBANA, GETTY 165

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利古里亚大区（Liguria Region）

这个狭小的月牙形区域坐落在大海与群山之间，邀请旅行者去探索其色彩斑斓的沿海城镇、历史悠久的海洋之都以及崎岖的乡村村落。

体验

这片狭长的弧形地带位于法国边境与托斯卡纳之间，处于意大利西北部，仿佛悬浮在水与石之间。村庄依偎在小港口上方的悬崖边，橄榄林在陡峭的梯田上攀升。利古里亚（Liguria）独特的景观几个世纪以来一直吸引着旅行者，并启发了诸如拜伦勋爵、珀西·比希·雪莱和欧内斯特·海明威等作家。在意大利里维埃拉的最西端，靠近法国边境的因佩里亚省（Imperia）展现了利古里亚一个更为安静且鲜为人知的一面。在这里，海滨城镇随即转变为橄榄林、山顶村庄以及曾经连接意大利与法国贸易社区的狭窄内陆道路。在博尔迪盖拉（Bordighera），19世纪令法国画家克劳德·莫奈着迷的光线，依然透过棕榈树和俯瞰大海的亚热带花园洒下。在海岸线之外，像多尔切阿夸（Dolceacqua）和阿普里卡莱（Apricale）这样的村庄保留了另一个完全不同的利古里亚，那里有石屋、拱桥和被橄榄树与葡萄园环绕的陡峭小巷。

拥抱慢旅行

利古里亚是一个最适合缓慢探索的省份，骑行已成为体验该地区最自然的方式之一。沿着西部里维埃拉，旧铁路线已被改造为俯瞰地中海的海岸骑行道。在奥斯佩达莱蒂（Ospedaletti）和切尔沃（Cervo）两镇之间，骑行者将穿过古老的隧道、修复后的车站和小渔港。再往东，在菲纳莱利古雷（Finale Ligure）和萨沃纳省（Savona）的山丘周围，地形变得更加陡峭崎岖。地中海森林、石灰岩悬崖和全景山脊使该地区成为了欧洲最著名的山地骑行和徒步目的地之一。附近，阿尔比索拉（Albisola）村保留了另一种完全不同的传统——陶瓷。这里的作坊和工作室使用代代相传的技艺塑造黏土，而当代艺术家则重新诠释这座城镇悠久的创意遗产。在该地区的中心，利古里亚历史悠久的海事之都热那亚（Genoa）在被称为 caruggi 的狭窄小巷迷宫中展开，这里分布着面包店、小商店和古老的 trattorias 餐厅。旅行者还可以探索这座城市的联合国教科文组织列名建筑——罗利宫（Palazzi dei Rolli），这是一组文艺复兴和巴洛克风格的建筑群，曾是热那亚贵族家庭的居所。

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内部建议

领略利古里亚的不同一面：内陆

许多旅行者只关注利古里亚的海岸线，但该地区一些最令人难忘的体验始于内陆。在秋季或冬季访问特里奥拉（Triora）、祖卡雷洛（Zuccarello）、瓦雷塞利古雷（Varese Ligure）或布鲁尼亚托（Brugnato）等村庄，可以揭示出这个未受季节性旅游影响之地区更为安静的一面。在这里，旅行者可以享受当地节日，品尝传统美食，体验更慢的生活节奏。

在热那亚以东，卡莫利（Camogli）保留着古老渔村的氛围，而塞斯特里莱万特（Sestri Levante）镇则坐落在两个截然不同的海湾之间，这两个海湾都因其美景和文学关联而闻名。附近的波托菲诺（Portofino）依然被松林、步行道和延伸至其著名小广场（piazzetta）之外的受保护海洋景观所环绕。沿着东部里维埃拉，五渔村（Cinque Terre）构成了地中海最震撼的景观之一。蒙特罗索（Monterosso）、韦尔纳扎（Vernazza）、科尼利亚（Corniglia）、马纳罗拉（Manarola）和里奥马焦雷（Riomaggiore）建在陡峭的海岸梯田上，几个世纪以来仅通过小径和船只相连。它们的葡萄园和干石墙反映了人类社区与这片艰苦地形之间的长期关系。

饮食传统与这些景观紧密相连。来自利古里亚西部的橄榄油、在热那亚烘烤的佛卡恰面包、在海岸附近种植的罗勒以及来自渔村的海鲜食谱，都反映了一种植根于该地区地理环境而非仅仅是文化的饮食习惯。

lamialiguria.it / en

另外三件值得体验的事 图片：@LACOPO AVEGNO; GETTY

在 Alta Val di Vara 探索利古里亚乡村

Alta Val di Vara 被称为意大利的“有机山谷”，保留了利古里亚的乡村风貌。在这里，游客可以在拉斯佩齐亚省（La Spezia）内陆山区的深处，发现茂密的森林、小型农场和石砌村庄。对于那些想要避开该地区最繁忙的沿海目的地的游客来说，这是一个宁静的替代选择。

在 Pelagos 保护区寻找鲸鱼

利古里亚海域是 Pelagos 保护区的一部分，这是地中海最大的海洋保护区之一。季节性的远足活动为旅行者提供了在自然栖息地观察宽吻海豚、长须鲸、抹香鲸及其他海洋物种的机会。

探索热那亚的历史工坊

热那亚的 botteghe（历史悠久的工艺品店）隐藏在城市的狭窄巷弄中，至今仍在使用传承数代的技艺生产纸张、甜点、纺织品和烘焙食品。这些工坊让旅行者能够罕见地窥见这座城市昔日的商业贸易历史。

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Parkhotel Laurin

凭借其卓越的艺术收藏、自由风格（Liberty-style）建筑以及全年不断的文化活动，这家位于博尔扎诺（Bolzano）市中心的豪华酒店一个多世纪以来一直是艺术家和知识分子的聚集地。

体验

博尔扎诺是一座值得慢下来探索的城市。它位于三条山谷的交汇处，是意大利北部南蒂罗尔（South Tyrol）地区的首府，处于意大利和奥地利文化的十字路口。在这里，街道标志同时出现意大利语和德语，市场里除了销售 bresaola（风干牛肉）外还出售 speck（烟熏火腿），而建筑风格在同一个街区内便能从罗马式教堂转变为青年风格（jugendstil）的城镇住宅。多洛米蒂山脉就在城市门前，而欧洲最大的高海拔高原 Alpe di Siusi 乘坐缆车和窄轨铁路在不到一小时的车程之内。

卓越之选

Park Laurin 不仅为客人提供了探索该目的地的基地，更给了他们留下来驻足的理由。这家酒店坐落在博尔扎诺市中心的一片百年古树掩映之中，拥有 100 间客房和套房，是东阿尔卑斯山脉自由风格建筑最精美的典范之一。酒店由 Maximilian staffler 在 1909 年至 1910 年间建造，其后代至今仍拥有并经营该物业。在南蒂罗尔一个多世纪的历史中，酒店迎来了无数艺术家、政治家和知识分子，在此过程中，它成为了这座城市文化结构的核心部分。走廊和公共空间陈列着 200 多件原创艺术品，涵盖了从 20 世纪初的壁画到当代作品。在室外，一个面积约 4,000 平方米的私人公园由古老的橡树、山毛榉和木兰树为酒店遮荫。在 Laurin 餐厅，主厨 Dario Tornatore 在菜肴中突出了该地区卓越的农产品，包括山地草药、南蒂罗尔著名的 Val Venosta 苹果以及来自当地乳制品厂的手工奶酪。Laurin 酒吧与小馆既是历史沙龙，也是文化场所。酒吧设有滚动更新的现场爵士乐音乐会日程、每周一次的钢琴表演以及泳池边的文化活动，使其成为城市居民和酒店客人的真正聚集点。 laurin.it

内部建议

如果您在六月或七月访问博尔扎诺，请密切关注入夜后其庭院、教堂和开放空间里发生的事情。南蒂罗尔爵士音乐节（Südtirol Jazzfestival）将整个地区变成了一个露天舞台，音乐会地点涵盖了从中世纪回廊到工业仓库的各种场所。许多活动是免费的，且节目编排大胆前卫——远超人们对“爵士音乐节”这一词汇的常规想象。当地人将这一活动视为日常生活的一部分而非特殊场合，展现了这座城市与音乐之间的深厚关系。

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Sailing Collective

定制游艇租赁让宾客能够探索意大利壮丽的第勒尼安海岸（Tyrrhenian Coast）沿线的隐秘海湾和秘密海滩——从波光粼粼的那不勒斯湾、撒丁岛的翡翠海岸（Costa Smeralda），到崎岖的埃奥利群岛。

体验

在双体船的甲板上，热腾腾的西班牙土豆煎饼配以清脆的火箭叶沙拉，顶端点缀着樱桃番茄。撒丁岛的 capocollo（猪肉萨拉米）、佩科里诺奶酪、橄榄和腌绿辣椒被摆放在一个大盘中，旁边则是各式夏季水果——桃子、李子和成熟的意大利甜瓜——当然，还有咖啡。这种惬意的场景正等待着那些探索第勒尼安海众多群岛的旅行者——这片地中海的分支位于意大利西海岸与撒丁岛、西西里岛和科西嘉岛之间。在撒丁岛及其附近的马达莱那群岛（Maddalena Archipelago）周围航行时，旅行者唯一需要思考的就是接下来探索哪个海湾，在岸边抛锚后去哪里游泳，以及什么时候进行一次放松的午后小憩。在这里的游艇之旅中，船上的厨师会准备美味的餐点，而船长则会分享关于该地区自然环境和文化传统的见解。

卓越之选

Sailing Collective 在全球范围内安排定制航海租赁，提供 50 条以上的既定行程。在意大利，Sailing Collective 专注于撒丁岛的翡翠海岸；包括庞扎岛（Ponza）和伊斯基亚岛（Ischia）在内的那不勒斯湾；埃奥利群岛；西西里岛西部较少被探索的埃加迪群岛（Egadi Islands）；以及埃尔巴岛和托斯卡纳群岛。由于这是一家独立的家族经营企业，每一项咨询都得到细致处理，提供符合每位宾客旅行愿望的个性化服务。团队致力于创造沉浸式的共享体验，而美食则是这一理念的基石。Sailing Collective 的厨师们热衷于与每位登船的宾客分享他们对食物的知识、创意和热情。通过精心策划的菜单和当地食材，烹饪团队打造出令人难忘的以美食为中心的体验。掌舵的船长在专业素养、专业知识和亲和力方面都经过严格审核。全体船员确保行程顺利运行，并协助制定定制行程。

三条推荐行程

那不勒斯湾

阿马尔菲海岸和那不勒斯湾的岛屿深受旅行者喜爱，但 Sailing Collective 的航程避开了人群。除了阿马尔菲海岸，该行程还包括普罗奇达岛（Procida）、文托泰内岛（Ventotene）和庞扎岛，旅行者可以在那里体验正宗的意大利生活方式。

撒丁岛与科西嘉岛

撒丁岛与科西嘉岛行程将探索著名的翡翠海岸，这里以其青绿色的海水和惊人的岩石地貌而著称。行程从撒丁岛东北部的奥尔比亚（Olbia）出发，包括塔沃拉拉岛（Tavolara Island）、历史悠久的防御城市博尼法乔（Bonifacio）以及原生态的马达莱那群岛。

西西里岛的埃奥利群岛

这个位于西西里岛东北海岸、被列入联合国教科文组织名录的群岛地处偏远且地势崎岖，由七个岛屿组成。这些被低估的目的地以其狂野之美和火山景观而闻名。最北端的斯特龙博利岛（Stromboli）是斯特龙博利火山的所在地，它是世界上最活跃的火山之一。

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慢享时光

这些精心挑选的木屋和山间度假地让旅行者能够沉浸在意大利的阿尔卑斯景观中，探索多洛米蒂山脉独特的饮食、遗产和季节性传统。

体验

广袤的山地景观、偏远的村庄以及与当地人的真实接触，让多洛米蒂山的旅程真正令人难忘。冬季，滑雪狩猎行程将旅行者从瓦尔加德纳（Val Gardena）的森林和阿尔塔巴迪亚（Alta Badia）的隐秘角落，带向阿拉巴（Arabba）、马尔莫拉达（Marmolada）冰川以及科尔蒂纳丹佩佐（Cortina d'Ampezzo）周围的壮丽景色。在春季和夏季，探索多洛米蒂山的最佳方式是骑电动自行车、骑马远足和攀登铁道攀登（via ferrata）。秋天则带来一种更缓慢的氛围，此时森林转变为金色、橙色和红色，山谷成为在景观中进行风景漫步和电动自行车骑行的理想之地。在以描绘传统手工艺生活的壁画而闻名的偏远村庄奇比亚纳迪卡多雷（Cibiana di Cadore），该地区最真实的体验之一围绕着 larin（传统壁炉）展开。旅行者可以参观一座拥有数百年历史的住宅，并在壁炉旁享用地区美食，例如 canederli（面包丸子）以及当地奶酪、speck（烟熏火腿）和葡萄酒。除了山脉，向威尼斯延伸的景观展现了北意大利文化的另一层维度。普罗塞克丘陵（Prosecco Hills）的历史别墅和家族经营的酒庄让客人们能够通过品鉴和其他烹饪体验来探索当地的饮食与美酒。所有这些体验的核心在于创造与这片土地更深层次的联系——这种联系不仅由景观塑造，还由那些在旅程结束很久之后依然令人印象深刻的故事和传统所塑造。

卓越之选

Savoring Slowly 提供一系列真实的山地木屋和住宅。从当代度假屋到修复的农庄和历史悠久的阿尔卑斯住宅，每处房产都因其氛围、特色以及与景观的联系而被选中。Savoring Slowly 还提供覆盖多洛米蒂山的定制体验，无论入住其木屋的客人还是住在其他地方的旅行者均可参与。该公司采取个性化的款待方式，从定制行程、私人接送，到户外探险和烹饪体验。savoringslowly.com

另外三项推荐活动

在普罗塞克丘陵的葡萄园中骑行电动自行车

在普罗塞克丘陵的核心地带，游客可以探索一座私人庄园，并在导游的带领下骑电动自行车穿梭于起伏的葡萄园中。随后，在庄园享用悠闲的午餐，并通过动手工作坊和品鉴，探索拥有数百年历史的马苏里拉奶酪制作工艺。

在铁道攀登中欣赏壮丽景色

在经验丰富的导游帮助下，旅行者可以攀登多洛米蒂山的铁道攀登路线之一，到达极少数游客才能见到的全景观景点。在山顶，用新鲜开启的生蚝和香槟在俯瞰山谷的高处庆祝这次冒险。

在山中享受烹饪课

旅行者可以乘坐风景优美的直升机飞越多洛米蒂山，然后抵达一座僻静的山间避难所。在这里，客人们将学习如何制作 canederli（传统面包丸子），随后享用由自己的作品和地区葡萄酒组成的悠闲午餐。

170

I 付费内容

Travelsphere

这次影响深远的旅行将带领旅行者从威尼斯的运河前往西西里岛埃特纳火山的火山坡，追随顶尖科学家、地理学家和摄影师的足迹

体验之旅

凭借其自然美景、著名美食和迷人的历史，意大利是一个不容错过的目的地。旅程从威尼斯开始，那里狭窄如迷宫的小巷通向阳光普照的广场。接着，前往博洛尼亚，这里拥有欧洲最古老的大学。几个世纪以来，这座城市的柱廊街道一直洋溢着学生生活的活力。随后，行程继续前往比萨及其标志性的斜塔，然后抵达佛罗伦萨，旅行者可以在这里漫步于老桥（Ponte Vecchio），感受城市美术馆中清冷宁静的氛围。接下来，前往要塞之城奥尔维耶托，那里有蜿蜒的街道和华丽的大教堂。然后，出发前往罗马，古老的遗迹与现代建筑并肩而立。斗兽场的宏大规模令游客惊叹，而特雷维喷泉则将人群吸引到一个充满奔腾水声的狭小广场中。向南前往庞贝，保存完好的街道和凝固的罗马生活细节讲述了一个比任何教科书都更具个人色彩的故事。西西里岛以其火山地貌和俯瞰伊奥尼亚海岸的悬崖小镇，成为了完美的终点站。旅行者可以在街头市场购买当地产品，品尝岛上的新鲜海鲜。

卓越之选

Travelsphere 的意大利大巡游在短短 15 天内将所有这些目的地结合在一起，且完全不会让人感到匆忙。该行程属于 Travelsphere 的皇家地理学会系列（Royal Geographical Society Collection），这意味着宾客将追随顶尖科学家、地理学家和摄影师的足迹而行。在整个行程中，宾客将入住四星级酒店——每家酒店均因其舒适度和地理位置而被选中。往返机票、多顿餐食、地道体验以及度假导游的服务均包含在内。可选的远足活动包括参观围墙小镇卢卡、沿阿马尔菲海岸驾驶以及访问那不勒斯湾的卡普里岛。travelsphere.co.uk

内行建议

庞贝考古遗址中最受欢迎的区域，包括广场（Forum）、巴西利卡（Basilica）和中央浴场，在白天极其拥挤。通过 Travelsphere，度假导游将确保游客不仅能探索这些标志性景点，还能游览沿南北城墙分布的、出人意料的安静后街。在这里，自然与遗迹交织在一起，营造出一种宁静的氛围。当旅行者漫步于这些街道时，他们还将发现面包店、花园、橄榄林以及美丽住宅建筑的遗迹。 图片来源：SHUTTERSTOCK, ADOBE STOCK

171

资深旅行者。

绝佳小众去处

伦敦

随着 Open House 和 Totally Thames 节日的临近，读者们分享了他们的首都出行建议

秘密博物馆

位于林肯律师学院广场（Lincoln's Inn Fields）的约翰·索恩爵士博物馆（Sir John Soane's Museum）是这位已故建筑师的故居。这里简直是收藏爱好者的梦想之地。每一寸空间都装饰着他自 1837. 年起收集并保存至今的绘画、古董和文物。这里极少使用玻璃展柜，因此你可以近距离欣赏这些物品。

AVANI TAMBE

隐藏花园

距离科文特花园（Covent Garden）几分钟路程的凤凰花园（Phoenix Garden）是伦敦市中心最佳的避世之所之一。它占据了二战期间被毁建筑的原址，并在 1984, 年被改造为一个充满活力的社区空间，种有野花并设有池塘。记得留意 Stik 创作的彩色壁画，这是花园最珍贵的特色之一。

HARRY OLSEN

魔幻商店

我热爱 House of MinaLima，这是一个位于苏豪区（Soho）的奇幻画廊商店，由《哈利·波特》和《神奇动物》系列电影背后的设计工作室经营。它展示了电影中的道具，并出售该工作室的古怪创意产品，如艺术版画和经典小说的弹出书版本。

RUTALEE BUCH

一家地下葡萄酒吧

Stables Wines 位于伊斯灵顿（Islington）附近一家前银行的地下金库中。这里充满了烛光与欢乐，既有适合安静交谈的舒适角落，也有适合社交饮酒的大型公共长桌。这里没有酒单——只需告诉工作人员你的喜好，他们就会为你推荐一杯。食物也同样出色——千万不要错过芝士烤三明治。stablewines.com EMILY TELLER

一家完美的披萨店

薄如纸片，口感极脆，且铺满了大量的有机食材——位于贝斯纳尔格林（Bethnal Green）的 Story Deli 的披萨简直令人惊叹。菜单根据食材的新鲜程度而变化；如果你在客流较少的日子到访，主厨 Lee 可能会迅速前往市场采购一些当日特供食材。装修风格走极简主义路线，采用了亚麻和木材等天然材料。@story.deli ANTONIA STOPPANI

一家地道的艾尔啤酒屋

靠近汉普斯特德荒野（Hampstead Heath）的 Southampton Arms 是那种即使你穿着拖鞋出现，也没人会眨一下眼的酒馆。桌椅略显不配套，而食物（猪肉派和烤猪肉圆面包）总是被抢购一空。我最喜欢这里不矫揉造作的氛围——以及那些到这里弹钢琴即兴演奏的当地退休音乐家。thesouthamptonarms.co.uk DAVID LOWE

发送您的建议

inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk 172 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片来源：GARETH GARDNER, GETTY; HELEN CATHCART; ALAMY; AWL IMAGES

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下一期

埃及

沿着尼罗河开启一段旅程，骑行进入沙漠，在神庙之间骑行，并探索这个充满故事的国家充满创意的一面

此外还包括 曼谷、塞浦路斯、冰岛、意大利普罗塞克（Prosecco）丘陵、日本、马略卡岛、纽约、菲律宾、苏格兰、瑞典等

10月刊 2026年 3 9月3日发售 欲了解更多关于我们订阅优惠的信息，请参阅第 177 页

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资深旅行者。

发现。探索。投票。

2026, 年度《国家地理旅行者》（英国版）读者大奖赛现已启动，旨在表彰您最喜爱的地点。哪个目的地值得更多的认可？哪个城市俘获了您的想象力？您最难忘的家庭旅行是在哪里？为您心仪的这些及其他类别投票，您将有机会参加我们的抽奖活动，赢取由 Explore Worldwide 提供的为期两周的哥斯达黎加之旅；由 Sunvil 提供的瑞典短途旅行；一个 Fjällräven 背包；或《国家地理旅行者》（英国版）的订阅服务。

扫描投票

您在 2026年8月18日 之前可以发表您的看法，获胜者将在 1 10月1日 发售的11月刊中揭晓。

投票赢奖品

两周的哥斯达黎加之旅、瑞典短途旅行、旅行装备和杂志订阅均有机会获得。奖品由 Explore! Sunvil 提供。

欲获取更多灵感，请访问 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 174 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片 GETTY

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即刻加入

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SORSASSO 科莫湖 (LAGO DI COMO)

科莫湖畔的葡萄酒爱好者的天堂

www.sorsasso.com info@sorsasso.com +39.3339061392

Sorsasso 由 Roberta 和 Daniele Travi 于 1996 年创立，最初是一场文化冒险，由对研究和发现历史及情感价值的极大热情所驱动。多年来，Travi 家族不仅复兴了本土的 Verdesa 葡萄品种，还扩大了其橄榄林。如今，我们生产卓越的 Domasino 葡萄酒，以及我们全新的 Balbianello 起泡酒、格拉帕白兰地和 DOP 特级初榨橄榄油。然而，由于采收仍由手工完成，产量有限。这是一个家族企业，在繁忙时期会有其他工作人员提供帮助。此外，从今年起，客人们可以入住农家乐（agriturismo）的四套新公寓之一，每套公寓都能将科莫湖和阿尔卑斯山的绝美景色尽收眼底。这是我们公司，也是我们这片土地的故事。我们期待在 Sorsasso 与您相见！

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九月优惠

五期仅需 £15 请访问 CHECKOUT.NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK / OFFERS 并使用代码“DSEPT26”，或致电 01858 438787 并提供代码“DSEPT26”。 订单截止日期为 1 October 2026. 所示价格为英国直接付款（Direct Debit）优惠价。您的订阅将从下一期可用刊物开始。如果您在六个月的订阅期结束时未取消，订阅将通过直接付款每年自动续订，费用为 £40. 这是一个限时的英国直接付款优惠，可能随时撤销。帆布袋数量有限，仅限英国订阅者。帆布袋的配送时间最长可达四周。信用卡和捐赠者订阅也可办理，但不含礼品。 英国年费订阅为 £45. 欧洲年费订阅为 £60. 世界其他地区年费订阅为 £75. 请注意：此订阅优惠针对的是《国家地理旅行者》（英国版）杂志。通过订阅，您同意我们不时就您的订阅事宜与您联系。

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SEPTEMBER 2026 177

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Expert Traveller.

我的旅行

这位演员兼电视节目主持人谈论在墨尔本冲浪以及巴西奶酪面包的乐趣

Terry Crews

TERRY CREWS 曾出演过包括《白佬》（White Chicks）、《敢死队》（The Expendables）和《布鲁克林九九》（Brooklyn Nine-Nine）在内的多部剧集和电影。他是《美国达人秀》（America's Got Talent）和《100位厨师》（100 Cooks）的主持人。Terry 在 8 月 7 日上映的《汪汪队立大功：恐龙电影》（Paw Patrol: The Dino Movie）中为 Alistair Stonewall 配音。你访问过的最非凡的地方在哪里？噢伙计，这就像在问我最喜欢哪个孩子一样！对我来说，旅行非常重要。我年轻时没去过任何地方，直到 18 岁第一次登机，之后我就一直奔波在飞机上。但我去过最令人惊讶的地方是迪拜。当时，我从未去过那么远的地方，而且我感到非常受欢迎。来自各种文化和信仰的人们在那里带着真正的尊重共同生活——这真的非常非凡。告诉我们你吃过的最棒的一餐。我和妻子及儿子去了佛罗里达州的奥兰多，我们开车一小时去了一个位于温特帕克（Winter Park）叫作 Jimmy Hula's 的地方。我对儿子说：“伙计，我们真的要开车一小时就为了吃个汉堡和薯条吗？”但让我告诉你，那简直太棒了。他们提供牛胸肉塔可、汉堡、配有腌洋葱的土豆沙拉，以及带有特殊 mojo 调料的薯条。那里有一种美式海滨小屋的感觉，有木板地板，一个大门廊，而且 1980 年代的音乐不停地播放。为了那个地方，我愿意开车两小时。你最喜欢的拍摄地之一是墨尔本。为什么？那是我想去很久的地方。那里如此宏大且美丽，而且我热爱那里的食物。那里的人们也非常甜美和友好。我是为了大奖赛（Grand Prix）去的，但我们在全市各地进行了拍摄。我甚至第一次尝试了 Vegemite，而且我很喜欢。也许我内心是个澳大利亚人？我是一个户外运动爱好者，我也热爱他们的健身文化。我是在疫情期间才学会游泳的。在墨尔本期间，我去了一个叫作 Urbnsurf 的地方。那是一个可以制造波浪的封闭空间，有教练教你如何冲浪。下次，我想访问内陆地区（Outback）。我也想看看澳大利亚的那一面。你说过你最狂热的粉丝群在巴西。这个国家里你最喜欢哪里？里约热内卢是我在巴西的第一次特别体验。我们在那里拍摄了第一部《敢死队》，我真正感受到了巴西人民的精神和激情。然后还有海滩和美食——我会说它是全球我最喜爱的美食目的地。噢，还有奶酪面包 [pão de queijo]！它是无麸质的，因为他们不用小麦——而是使用木薯和 tapioca。我记得去巴西的时候，我才刚刚听说过巴西莓（acai），而现在每个人都在吃巴西莓碗。那里有 1,000 种你从未见过的水果！我也很喜欢救世基督像——它实在太令人震撼了。你的行李箱里总是会装哪三样东西？健身对我来说是关键，所以我的阻力带是首先放进去的。你永远不知道健身房会是什么样子。第二样是蛋白粉。我现在到了这个年纪，它能帮我维持肌肉量。最后放进去的是我所有的面部护理产品——我比我妻子用的面霜和乳液还要多！我就是我自己的乐器：如果你想把工作做得更好，就必须磨利你的工具。噢，还有一加仑水。像我这样频繁旅行，保持水分至关重要。

采访：FARIDA ZEYNALOVA 178 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM / TRAVEL 图片：MANIFRED BAUMANN, GETTY

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沛纳海 (PANERAI)

来自深海的创新 RADIOMIR Radiomir 向 1995 年创作的第一款沛纳海设计致敬，它是定制者的腕表。 为海军打造，这款腕表旨在陪伴人们在最强悍的舰船上航行于广阔的海洋。 IO, COMANDANTE DEL TEMPO.

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西西里岛 (SICILY)。

非凡

天赋。

真实。 活力。 难忘。

SICILY VISITS 体验西西里岛的更佳方式 古罗马剧场、火山海岸以及保留灵魂的村落。由当地生活者引导，开启探索真实西西里岛的私人旅程。 Italy Vacation Specialists 专家之选，意式之旅 由 Italy Vacation Specialists 为您呈现 在 www.sicilyvisits.it 预订您的西西里之旅 与我们的意大利团队联系 / +39 375 823 5314 / team@italyvacationspecialists.com

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

TRAVEL MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR

TRAVELLER

UK EDITION • SEPTEMBER 2026 • 66:25

NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL

ALTERNATIVE ISLAND ESCAPES SICILY, TREMITI ARCHIPELAGO, CAPRAIA & MORE

HAY

ALSO INSIDE

Taste the unique culinary culture of the Azores

Discover Morocco's northern coast

Farm life & cider on a tour of Somerset

Follow the Silk Road through Uzbekistan

PLUS: BOSTON • BUDAPEST • FLANDERS • HAMBURG • KIGALI • LYME REGIS • LYON • MANCHESTER • PERU • ULURU

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Italy Vacation Specialists

Italy by the Experts

PLACES CHANGE US.

Some journeys stay in photographs. Others quietly become part of who we are.

For more than 20 years, we have created journeys across Italy and its extraordinary islands, journeys that leave travellers with something far more valuable than souvenirs.

PERSPECTIVE. CONNECTION. STORIES THEY'LL TELL FOREVER.

YOUR ITALY. PERFECTLY CRAFTED.

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issue 145, September 2026

Contents

The Edit.

14 • DO IT NOW Slide into the saddle on a US dude ranch

16 • TRAVEL NEWS The latest openings, new experiences and book releases on our radar

23 • IN SEASON European surfing breaks to savour the last of the summer's warmth

24 • INSIDE GUIDE Get a taste of Belgium's brewing heritage on a trip through Flanders

27 • TABLE TALK The best bites in Lyon, according to a local chef

28 • UK BREAK Fossil hunting and independent brewing in Lyme Regis

31 • STAY & DO A vine-swaddled palace on Spain's Biscay coast

32 • COMPETITION Win a nature-filled weekend stay at The Tawny

35 • WHEN IN What the locals are doing in Budapest

36 • MICRO TREND The renaissance of China's 24-hour spas

38 • SPECIAL INTEREST Hamburg's Miniatur Wunderland

40 • IN FOCUS The latest from the world of travel photography

Features.

48 • ITALY Meet the people who call the nation's islands home, from cheese farmers to visual artists and sea explorers

72 • UZBEKISTAN Unearth the legacy of the Silk Road on a journey in the footsteps of merchants, pilgrims and nomads

84 • AZORES On these remote Atlantic islands, self-reliance has generated a distinct and innovative food culture

96 • KIGALI Thriving art, food and fashion scenes are putting the spotlight on Rwanda's overlooked capital

106 • LAKE TITICACA Experience a homestay with the weaving communities on this high-altitude Peruvian lake

114 • MUSIC TRIPS We round up eight of the best experiences for crate-diggers, opera aficionados and fiddle enthusiasts

120 • ULURU Hike through the Outback on an Indigenous-led hike ending at Australia's sacred sandstone monolith

The Guide.

126 • LONG WEEKEND:

TETOUAN & TAMUDA BAY

Jagged peaks and Mediterranean waters meet in this quiet corner of northern Morocco

130 • ON THE MENU: SOMERSET

CIDER In search of the farmers and brewers championing the county's best-loved tipple

134 • WHERE TO STAY:

MANCHESTER The northern powerhouse's industrial heritage lives on in its booming hotel scene

140 • TAKE TWO: BOSTON

Get to know the city through its revolutionary heroes and sporting legends

Expert Traveller.

145 • ONE TO WATCH The rise of spiritual adventures

146 • THE LOWDOWN Is it possible to overcome a fear of flying?

150 • KIT LIST Birding essentials

151 • BEYOND TRAVEL Highlights from nationalgeographic.com

152 • THE STORY BEHIND Chinese mooncakes

153 • HOW TO Master phone photography

172 • GREAT LITTLE PLACE Readers share their London haunts

174 • READER AWARDS Vote for your favourite destinations for a chance to win great prizes

177 • SUBSCRIPTIONS

Get five issues for just £15

178 • MY TRAVELS Actor and TV presenter Terry Crews

On the cover.

Dusk cloaks the harbour of Procida, Italy Image: AWL Images

SEPTEMBER 2026

7

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September 2026

Contributors

Take a peek behind the scenes of our latest issue with the writers and photographers who made it happen

ANNAPURNA MELLOR

“During my time on the island of Amantani, documenting life on Lake Titicaca, my homestay host, Pilar, wore the most beautiful handmade clothes. As part of the story, I photographed her cooking and weaving. On my final day, she insisted that we swap roles. She dressed me in her traditional clothing and seized the camera, laughing all the while.” PERU P.106

OLIVER SMITH

“Walking through the deserts of central Australia meant striking out in the cold before sunrise — using head torches and wearing many layers — before quickly shedding them and pushing on under the hot Outback sun. This moment captures a short period in between: when the temperature was perfect and the dawn light otherworldly.” ULURU P.120

KATA FÁRI

“Budapest is effortlessly beautiful. The grand architecture, river views and thermal baths do most of the talking. But the city's real personality lives in the details. Look a little closer and you'll find hidden quirks, including a miniature statue of actor Béla Lugosi — cinema's most iconic Dracula — reading behind Vajdahunyad Castle.” BUDAPEST P.35

Sam Kemp

“In Uzbekistan, music is as abundant and varied as the fruits hanging in the orchards. While I was exploring the oasis town of Bukhara, I sat down with musician and instrument maker Jalol Avliakulov to learn the Andijan polka on a handmade rubob: a long-necked lute carved from a single piece of mulberry wood. I'm still waiting for the day he calls me to suggest that we get the band back together.” Uzbekistan p.72

Amelia Duggan

“Abandoning my seat for the open deck, I was rewarded with a flash of movement in the water: dolphins, three of them, keeping pace with the inter-island ferry. Out there, with little but the Atlantic for hundreds of miles, it's clear how isolation has shaped life in the Azores; how everything has been fished or farmed against the odds.” Azores p.84

Farida Zeynalova

“Within minutes of arriving on the Tuscan island of Capraia, I was savouring a showcase of its finest homegrown produce: wine, honey and goat's cheese. In the sun-dappled garden of my hosts — tour guide Federico Ferrarini and his wife, beekeeper Roberta Bonomo — we plotted my itinerary. At the top of the agenda? Meeting artisanal producers breathing new life into this island of only around 150 permanent residents.” Italy p.48

SEPTEMBER 2026 9

IMAGES: ANNAPURNA MELLOR, KATA FÁRI, PETER TAKASSUK, ASHA NAZAR, FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI, KERRY MURRAY

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

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issue 145, September 2026

Welcome

I

grew up in the foothills of the Alps in Italy’s north and first visited the country’s islands as a teenager on a family trip. We took the ferry from the mainland to Procida, a small isle in the Gulf of Naples, to head off on a tour of its fishing villages and movie-set locations. Our guide arrived 30 minutes late, flip-flopping slowly through the port. Instead of apologies or excuses, he gestured around him and simply offered: “You have the sea, you have the sun. What more could you want?”

I share this anecdote for three reasons. First, after all these years, our happy-go-lucky guide is what I remember most. Second, he was right — the natural beauty of Italy’s islands, where the waters are azure and the days long and warm well into September, is enough of a reason to visit. And, third, if you do want more, you’ll find destinations as varied as they are surprising.

Our cover story captures this depth of experience. We meet young producers on the Tuscan island of Capraia; a diving instructor in Puglia’s Tremiti archipelago; and artists exhibiting in Sicily as part of Italy’s first Capital of Contemporary Art programme. These locals are resilient and creative, choosing to build lives in some of the country’s most remote, unlikely spots. Just don’t expect them to always show up on time.

If, like me, you’ve had a trip you’ll always remember, don’t forget to vote in our reader awards — turn to p.174 to find out more.

Angela

Angela Locatelli, acting features editor

Search for natgeotraveluk

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Vote in the UK Reader Awards

The National Geographic Traveller (UK) Reader Awards 2026 have launched, celebrating the places you love the most. Have your say and you’ll be entered into a draw to win wonderful travel prizes, including a two-week trip to Costa Rica. P. 174

Win a weekend at The Tawny

One lucky reader and their guest will spend two nights on this 70-acre rewilded estate in north Staffordshire, on the edge of the Staffordshire Moorlands and Peak District National Park, with chances to explore lakes, woodland trails and follies. P. 32

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The Edit.

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14 DO IT NOW 16 TRAVEL NEWS 23 IN SEASON 24 INSIDE GUIDE 27 TABLE TALK 28 UK BREAK

31 STAY & DO 32 COMPETITION 35 WHEN IN 36 MICRO TREND 38 SPECIAL INTEREST 40 IN FOCUS

DO IT NOW

Dude ranches

For the past century, these farms in the American West have been opening their doors to travellers, offering a taste of life in the saddle

In the 1880s, Pittsburgh Howard Eaton left his hometown for a ranch in the Dakota Badlands, where bison roam the prairies and mesas rise like waves in a sea of rock. So struck was he by the wide-open landscapes and simple charms of farm life that he wrote enthusiastic letters to friends, inviting them to visit. These ‘dudes’ (then a term for city folks) repaid his hospitality by covering their own expenses — and cowboy tourism was born.

This September marks 100 years since the first meeting of the Dude Ranchers’ Association, which promotes travel to working cattle farms welcoming guests on an all-inclusive basis. A stay is still much like Howard Eaton first envisioned it: visitors gallop on horseback, join cattle rides, practise their rock-step in line dances and enjoy barbecues around the soft glow of a campfire.

Hiking, wild swimming and birdwatching are all popular, too. Some properties even offer boutique experiences like spa treatments, capitalising on the renaissance of cowboy culture in popular media, fuelled by the success of projects like Paramount’s star-studded Yellowstone series. The Stetson hats and cowhide boots endure, but it’s certainly a new frontier. duderanch.org

ANGELA LOCATELLI

SEPTEMBER 2026 15

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WHAT'S NEW

Going the distance

Launching in September, France’s newest Grande Randonnée de Pays (national trail) goes through the lush Ardennes mountain range in France and Belgium. Accommodation along the multi-day, 217-mile loop enables walkers to divide the journey into 15 sections, passing medieval towns, refreshing lakes and fir forests worthy of myth. ardennes.com

The trail passes through the medieval fortified town of Sedan, the site of several historic battles.

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The Edit.

Explorers assemble in Washington

Following a four-year transformation, the National Geographic Society's headquarters are now home to a cutting-edge museum

The National Geographic Museum of Exploration has opened its doors in Washington, DC, encouraging travellers of all ages to tap into their inner adventurer. Highlights of the inaugural season include courtyard music performances, a photography exhibition focusing on America's diverse landscapes and a night-time experience exploring the wonders of our oceans. Visitors can also catch rotating shows in the immersive theatre, meet National Geographic Explorers face-to-face and delve into the magazine's archives in an exhibition exploring the legacy of the yellow border, which launched in 1888. moe.nationalgeographic.org

IMAGES: GETTY, MOMENT FACTORY, ELMAN STUDIO, REBECCA HALE/ NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC; STEVE WINTER/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

top three

New active tours

These guided European experiences and itineraries are offering travellers something a little different, whether it's running around Rome with the family in tow or exploring two Icelandic glaciers in one outing

1 FAMILY-FRIENDLY RUNNING IN ROME

ArcheoRunning combines history and movement in its jogging tours of Italy's capital. The new routes have been designed with kids in mind, moving at a gentle pace and covering topics such as the city's beloved cat colonies. archeorunning.com

2 BIKE-AND-BOAT ALONG CANALS

Cycling for Softies has long specialised in leisurely two-wheel trips. This year it's added itineraries where guests bike by day and bed down in boutique barges at night, tracing iconic waterways like the Danube. cyclingforsofties.com

3 ICELAND'S TWO-GLACIER TREK

Arctic Adventures has launched Glacier Beyond, a hike linking two glaciers in central Vatnajökull National Park – the only scheduled day tour to do so. Start from popular Falljökull and move onto Virkisjökull, for a side to the area few get to see. adventures.is

SEPTEMBER 2026

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WHAT'S NEW

The miles behind the movement

A new marker on the Louisiana Civil Rights Trail has been unveiled in New Orleans, expanding the 105-mile network of sites linked to the pivotal movement in US history. Launched in 2021, the trail now has 15 stops, including five in New Orleans — a crucial battleground in the fight against segregation and discrimination during the 1950s and 1960s. This latest interpretive panel highlights the spot where, in 1960, a group of young students held the city's first sit-in, setting the stage for segregation in the area to be dismantled.

Visitors can use New Orleans' trail markers to create a self-guided tour, taking in spots like Dooky Chase's Restaurant, where Civil Rights leaders including Oretha Castle Haley and Martin Luther King Jr gathered over bowls of steaming gumbo. The city's Louisiana Civil Rights Museum is another stop worth making.

Beyond The Big Easy, the trail winds through areas such as Pineville, Lafayette and Baton Rouge. At the latter, there's a marker for the Bogalusa to Baton Rouge March in 1967, when activists walked 105 miles to protest discrimination against African Americans running for office. louisianacivilrightstrail.com

INSIDER MARRAKECH

Drawing on the Moroccan city's artistic heritage, El Fenn has launched specialist retreats focusing on fashion, art, interiors and garden design. Guests at the art-led riad hotel can expect meetings with artisans, behind-the-scenes tours and styling workshops while burrowing into the rose city's many souks and Islamic gardens with global creative experts as hosts. Four nights from £3,040 per person. el-fenn.com

Bayeaux Tapestry causes a stir as it returns to England

Rare, ancient and so long it takes up an entire gallery, the 70-metre textile depicting the Norman Conquest has returned to its country of origin after a millennium. Delivered in the dead of night from Normandy, it will be displayed at the British Museum from 10 September 2026 to 11 July 2027, accompanied by themed talks and craft nights. Tickets from £25. britishmuseum.org

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The Edit.

Pompidou art to grace national monuments

Renaissance chateaux and a resting place for French greats play host to the gallery's roving collection this autumn

After closing in 2025 for a major five-year revamp, Paris's famous modern art gallery embarked on an adventure. The Constellation programme is sending works from the Centre Pompidou's vast collection across France and beyond until it reopens in 2030 — and this autumn the recipients are some of the country's most spectacular national monuments.

September brings a pop-up exhibition to Paris's Panthéon crypt, where French luminaries including Marie Curie, Voltaire and Josephine Baker are interred. The multidisciplinary show Vies Minuscules (Tiny Lives) will take over the vaulted neoclassical nave from the 25th. Themes such as memory, exile and everyday life will be explored through the works of 30 artists as diverse as 20th-century Czech painter František Kupka and contemporary French photographer Mohamed Bourouissa.

Another Pompidou project launches in the Centre-Val de Loire region in October, where an Alexander Calder homage will take art-lovers on a tour of 15 cultural monuments. Calder became known in the 20th century for his 'mobile' art installations, and the exhibition has been timed to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the American artist's arrival in France, where he spent 50 years, including more than two decades in the Loire. The works will be spread between a number of Renaissance chateaux, as well as regional museums. centrepompidou.fr monuments-nationaux.fr

Next spring, the Centre Pompidou will open a new hub in the Île-de-France region for art conservation and exhibitions.

new releases

Light relief

EGYPT

Food is at the heart of this travelogue-cookbook mash-up by Rawah Badrawi and Suzanne Zeidy, which captures more than 140 recipes from across Egypt. £30, Nourish

TOKYO

Ramen bars, geishas, old shopfronts — all are covered in this adults' colouring-in book of 42 illustrations by French designer Zoé de Las Cases. There's a New York version, too. £20, Octopus

THE WRITER'S MAP

Explore the imaginary geographies of legendary authors from JRR Tolkien to AA Milne and the real-life maps that inspired them. £25, Thames & Hudson

IMAGES: AWE IMAGES: EMMA LAPPIN | LA FABRIQUE DE PATRIMONIES EN NORMANDIE, ANTOINE CAZIN | GETTY

SEPTEMBER 2026

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The Edit.

WHAT'S NEW

Hull Maritime Museum back in business

After six years of building work, £20 million of investment and the wrangling of 1,300 objects, the Hull Maritime Museum reopens on 8 August. The nationally important repository has doubled its public space in the Yorkshire coastal town, enabling the museum to display 50% more objects from its vast collection. The extensive revamp has also pushed it into the 21st century, with immersive galleries that bring 800 years of maritime history to life.

A major British port since the 13th century, Hull also became one of the world's largest whaling hubs by the early 19th century. The collection tells this story through rare whale tooth scrimshaw folk art and artefacts such as a complete skeleton of a North Atlantic right whale, now critically endangered. Other displays include objects carried on Sir Ernest Shackleton's Antarctica expedition aboard the Endurance, and a new community exhibition dedicated to preserving stories from the sea.

The museum transformation is part of a wider project to regenerate and polish the city's maritime heritage, which has included work on the Spurn Lightship and the cod-fishing vessel the Arctic Corsair, both of which are docked in Hull. maritimehull.co.uk

CELEBRATING THE QUEEN OF CRIME

Murder-mystery fans, get your magnifying glasses ready: the annual Agatha Christie Festival returns to the crime writer's hometown of Torquay in September. This year, it coincides with the 50th anniversary of her death and will be bigger than ever, with the addition of a trivia game show for superfans. Attendees can retrace Christie's footsteps while exploring the Devon town, join author talks or enjoy the 1920s costume promenade. The festival runs from 12-20 September, pre-empting a major new exhibition at the British Library, Agatha Christie: A World of Mystery, which opens 30 October. Ticketed events from £13. iacf-uk.org

The hills are alive...

Salzburg is getting a permanent homage to The Sound of Music. Opening on 20 September in the grounds of the Hellbrunn Palace, the museum will explore the phenomenon of the musical and 1965 Julie Andrews film, as well as the history of the real-life von Trapp family. salzburgmuseum.at

20 ■ NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL

IMAGES ALAMY, EMILY APPLETON

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IN SEASON

Surfing breaks

With European waters retaining their summer warmth and stormier weather offshore producing reliable swells, it's time to ride the waves

SPAIN

BUILD YOUR SKILLS

Cantabria's rugged coastline makes it the perfect spot for surfing the September breakers that lurch onto Spain's northern shores. Either side of the lively port city of Santander, golden sands between the cliffs provide scenic spots for surf lessons. Build up your confidence with a session or two at mellow Playa de Somo before hopping from beach to beach. turismodecantabria.com

UK

CREST THE HOME SWELL

As summer ends, the jet stream pushes surging waves towards the UK's surfing heartland — Cornwall. Fistral Beach is the jewel in the county's crown, with pumping swells just a short walk from central Newquay. Further south, villages like Porthtowan and Gwithian serve as gateways to wider expanses of cyan water and foaming surf. visitcornwall.com

FRANCE

SURF SOCIAL

Surfers from around the world travel to France's Landes region, in the south west of the country, to revel in the 65 miles of uninterrupted sand lining the Bay of Biscay. Moliets-et-Maa is the hub for international surf camps, drawing a crowd that likes to spend the day in the water and the night on the dance floor. To the south, Hossegor hosts competitions; its monster waves challenge even the most experienced pros. landesatlantiquesud.com

NORWAY

GET BACK TO NATURE

High in the Arctic Circle, the Lofoten archipelago offers an unspoiled surfing experience far from the busy beaches of southwestern Europe. On Unstad Beach, the breakers crash against a backdrop of imposing mountains wreathed in mist — a spectacle best enjoyed under the glow of the rising sun. When not in the water, spend your days hiking and, after dark, scan the skies for the Northern Lights. visitlofoten.com

PORTUGAL

HOP THE COAST

Portugal's west coast is spoilt for exceptional surf, and Peniche is at its heart. Outside the walled town, there are beaches for every ability — from families and beginners at Praia Baleal Sul to the best in the world at Praia dos Supertubos. Many are accessible by public transport, meaning it's easy to hop from one to the next. visitportugal.com BILLY THOMAS

IMAGE: ALAMY

SEPTEMBER 2026 23

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The Edit.

INSIDE GUIDE

Beer in Flanders

This region of northern Belgium is overflowing with breweries. Some open their doors for tastings, guided tours and overnight stays

WORDS REBECCA CROWE ILLUSTRATION MARTIN HAAKE

Among Flanders' medieval cities, quiet villages and stretches of flat countryside you'll find a rich beer-making culture. The region's brewing heritage dates back to the 12th century, when drinking water was often contaminated, and monks would craft ales to provide parishioners with safe hydration. Ten years ago, Belgian beer culture was added to Unesco's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Now, a few breweries double as places to spend the night — a great excuse for a pilgrimage dedicated to Flanders' favourite tipple.

For some context, start at Belgian Beer World (belgianbeerworld.be) in the heart of Brussels. Housed in the neoclassical Stock Exchange building, La Bourse, the interactive museum takes you through the history of beer culture in the country. Along with tastings as you wend your way through the site, a visit culminates with a final drink at the rooftop bar, which overlooks the city's main square, the Grand-Place.

Easily accessible by train from the capital, Het Anker (hetanker.be) in the medieval city of Mechelen offers stays in one of the country's oldest operating breweries. The former stockroom has been divided into 22 industrial rooms, where the bedside tables are fashioned from beer crates. The atmosphere is convivial, with a hostel-style lounge, a kitchen and a vending machine selling bottles brewed on site. Dine at the brasserie for traditional dishes like bitterballen (deep-fried balls of meat stew), then go to the patio to watch the sun set between silver grain silos.

Around the corner is Mechelen's Great Beguinage, one of 13 Unesco-listed medieval neighbourhoods in Belgium where unmarried, independent women could live. Stroll below its sloped roofs before exploring the rest of the city, once home to the formidable Margaret of Austria, a Habsburg who shaped the region in the early 16th century.

Learn about her on a tour with Visit Mechelen (visit.mechelen.be), passing Grote Markt square. Here, you'll find the 13th-century Saint Rumbold's Cathedral and its self-playing carillon, whose hammer-operated bells ring out every few minutes.

A 30-minute train journey takes you to Leuven, the unofficial beer capital of Flanders, home to famed brewer Stella Artois. This university city has a thriving student pub culture, not to mention modern restaurants like Hop Gastrobar (hopgastrobar.com), which has an open kitchen and a beer list as long as a dictionary. Opt for a fruity Oude Rhubarbe Tilquin à l'Ancienne, which pairs beautifully with the barbecued white asparagus.

After lunch, hire a bike from local tour operator Leuven Leisure (leuvenleisure.com) and head out on one of five bike-to-brewery trails. One of the shorter routes brings you to the rolling fields of the Haacht municipality, home to Kraneveldhoeve (kraneveldhoeve.be), a centuries-old farmhouse and brewery hotel. Sip refreshing Dormaal Saison in the tasting room, dominated by an antique wooden bar, before bedding down below timber beams.

With extra time, consider heading to Ghent, just over an hour away by train, then taking the bus to Evergem, a quiet municipality outside of the city. Surrounded by farmland in the hamlet of Ertvelde, microbrewery Hopspot (hopspot.be) offers stays in white-brick rooms. Owned by Brouwerij Van Steenberge, a brewery founded in 1784, its bar and brasserie support local farmers and producers. You can also brew your own beer during a day-long workshop, making use of a variety of Belgian yeast, malts and hops — a perfect end to your trip.

HOW TO DO IT: Eurostar travels from London to Brussels in two hours. Stay at Het Anker from €109 (£95), B&B; at Kraneveldhoeve from €120 (£104), B&B; or at Hopspot from €122 (£106). eurostar.com

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Lyon, France

VIVIANA PISACANE

Originally from Italy, Viviana and her brother Antonio run Le Boeuf d'Argent, a restaurant that celebrates French and Italian flavours. In June 2026, Viviana won France's Top Chef, a culinary reality series featuring professional chefs from across France: restaurant-leboeufdargent.com

TABLE TALK

Chef Viviana Pisacane on her favourite Lyonnaise dishes and where she goes for the freshest produce in France's gastronomic capital

Where's the one place everyone should eat in

Lyon? Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is the perfect introduction to Lyon's food culture. It's a lively indoor market where you can meet passionate producers and taste the very best local ingredients. I recommend trying some oysters with a glass of white wine; Jésus de Lyon [a dry-cured pork sausage]; Saint-Marcellin cheese; and, if you have room, a praline tart. The atmosphere is authentic — it makes you see why Lyon is considered the gastronomic capital of France.

What's a good restaurant for

traditional food? My favourite bouchon [traditional Lyonnaise restaurant] is Le Vivarais, which has a real sense of elegance. Try the quenelles de brochet [pike dumplings], the veal sweetbreads and the cervelle de canut [a cheese spread made with herbs and shallots]. The decor is warm and classic — it's the perfect place to relax and enjoy Lyonnaise food.

Can you recommend a local cooking class? Institut

Lyfe offers outstanding workshops and tasting classes run by chefs and other experts; they're great for anyone wanting to discover French gastronomy. I'd particularly recommend one focused on classic French sauces and Lyonnais specialities, because mastering these techniques gives you a real understanding of French cuisine. It's a wonderful experience that combines professional expertise with hands-on learning and it's something visitors can take home and recreate.

Does Lyon have any great bakeries? I love

Boulangerie Du Palais, a little place that reflects the rhythm of the historic Saint-Jean neighbourhood. My favourite thing to order is the pain aux raisins — it's simple, comforting and perfectly made. Sometimes the simplest things are the hardest to get right, and I always appreciate the craftsmanship and attention to detail. I also really like Bouillet, a pâtisserie run by Sébastien Bouillet. It's a colourful yet elegant place and everything is

beautifully presented. Sébastien's creations are consistently refined and never overly sweet. I order the tarte aux pralines [bright pink and made with shortcrust pastry, praline and double cream], which is Lyon's most iconic dessert.

What would your ideal day off

look like? It starts with a coffee and pastry before a stroll through the Saint-Antoine market. I go whenever I have a free morning because I like catching up

with the producers and seeing what's in season. I don't have just one favourite stall because I like discovering different artisans, but I always stop there for seasonal fruit, regional cheeses and fresh vegetables. Then I'd walk through Vieux Lyon [Old Lyon] and up to the hilltop district of Fourvière to enjoy views of the city. I'd have lunch at a traditional bouchon, followed by a peaceful walk in the Parc de la Tête d'Or. In the afternoon, I'd visit a local artisan or browse the independent shops in the Presqu'île [the city centre] before finishing the day with dinner by the Saône River.

INTERVIEW: FARIDA ZEYNALOVA

Sometimes the simplest things are the hardest to get right; I appreciate the craftsmanship.

IMAGES: LE BON CUCHE, ALAMY

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UK BREAK

Lyme Regis

Famed for its excellent fossil-hunting beaches, this Georgian town on Dorset's Jurassic Coast offers plenty of seaside distractions, from paleontology walks to seafood feasts with a view

WORDS JESSICA PRUPAS

Were you to dig below Lyme Regis' hunting-slung streets, you'd hit a geological marvel: the Blue Lias. This vast sequence of limestone and shale layers, formed during the Mesozoic era some 200 million years ago, reveals fossils as it erodes, making the town one of Europe's most important paleontological centres. It's a badge locals wear proudly: you'll find a weather-beaten statue of celebrated fossil hunter Mary Anning overlooking Church Cliff Beach. In 1823, while wandering Lyme Regis's coastline, she unearthed the world's first complete skeleton of a Plesiosaurus and, nearly two centuries after her death, the town remains a magnet for excavators.

Where should I begin?

The main strip is Front Beach, which fringes the promenade with its wash of pastel huts. On its western end, you'll find Shoreline Sauna, whose wood-fired, Nordic-style saunas sit right on the sand. Close by is the Cobb: a man-made harbour featured in the novel Persuasion by Lyme Regis habitué Jane Austen. It leads off Monmouth Beach, a quieter, pebbled stretch popular among fossil hunters scouring for ammonites — those distinctive, spiralled molluscs that have become a symbol of the town. You can learn more about Lyme Regis's prehistoric residents at the Dinosaurland Fossil Museum, home to a collection of more than 30,000 specimens, including a dolphin-like ichthyosaur unearthed nearby and the skull of a vast, carnivorous mosasaur. The museum also organises fossil walks run by local palaeontologists, with the chance to collect fossilised bullet-shaped belemnites — the shells of squid-like creatures that once swam the oceans. shorelinesauna.co.uk dinosaurland.co.uk

DID YOU KNOW? Lyme Regis local Mary Anning was just 12 years old when she discovered the famous ichthyosaur skeleton now housed in London's Natural History Museum.

What else is there beyond the fossils?

The Cobb is the launch point for Lyme Rib Rides, whose sightseeing cruises zip along the coast. Choose between the exhilarating, 20-minute 'Lyme dash' or the hour-long cruise that passes towering cliffs and secret coves. Otherwise, head up the stairs linking Monmouth Beach with the South West Coast Path — a 630-mile trail tracing this wave-lashed corner of England. Walk west for an hour and you hit the Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs National Nature Reserve. The distinctive character of this seven-mile stretch of coastline was formed by a succession of landslides, yielding undulating bluffs and diverse woodland. Back in Lyme Regis, visit the Town Mill: the site dates back to 1340 and its 17th-century watermill has been painstakingly restored by volunteers. It's become a home to local businesses including art studios, a vintage-inspired boutique and a potter's workshop, plus Lyme Regis Brewery, whose craft beers go down a treat in the courtyard. lymeribrides.com townmill.org.uk lymeregisbrewery.com

Where's good for food?

Start your day at Kiosk, on Front Beach, serving sausage- or halloumi-stuffed breakfast bagels that are best enjoyed while reclining on a sunlounger on the shingle. For lunch or dinner, there's Sandro's, a dinky, family-run operation masterminded by ex-River Cottage chef Alessandro Strillozzi. The menu is seasonal, with British ingredients going into Italian-style dishes like venison with polenta. Atop the hill overlooking Lyme Bay, you'll find Rockfish, from sustainable fishing advocate and TV chef Mitch Tonks. Guests choose from a list of daily catches from nearby Brixham Fish Market and dine to views of Lyme Regis's historic centre. Then there's Tom's, an AA Rosette bistro whose fish board — piled with lobster, scallops, crab croquettes, pearl oysters and prawns — is legendary. @kiosk_lymeregis @sandros_lymeregis therockfish.co.uk tomslymeregis.com

HOW TO DO IT: The closest train station is Axminster, which has direct services from London Waterloo and Exeter St Davids. From there, take the X51 or X53 bus into town. Jurassic Properties has cottages and apartments from £180 per night (two-night minimum stay). jurassicproperties.com visit-dorset.com

Clockwise from top left: Sunset on the promenade; grilled scallops and lobster from Rockfish; sailing boats in the Cobb; a boat ride is an exhilarating way to see Lyme Regis's coastline

IMAGES: GETTY; ED: OVENDEN/ROCKFISH; LYME BAY RIB RIDES

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STAY & DO

Pick grapes in the Basque Country

A former family mansion on Spain's Biscay coast invites guests to discover the region's favourite wine and take part in harvest rituals

The slow transition from summer to autumn is an ideal time to explore Spain's Basque Country. As temperatures cool, its coastal vineyards turn shades of yellow and gold, marking the start of the harvest season.

Palacio Arriluce Hotel, in the town of Getxo, makes a great base for a seaside break with added wine appreciation. Getxo became popular in the early 20th century when wealthy residents from Bilbao, just 10 miles away, came here to build cliffside villas as summer retreats. One such pad, the neo-gothic Palacio Arriluce, was commissioned in 1912 for the Marquis and Marquess of Arriluce de Ybarra. Now a 49-room hotel, it retains its stone turrets, stained glass windows and views of Getxo's marina. The restaurant, Delaunay, serves modern takes on classic Basque dishes while the palace's chapel is now a cocktail bar.

Guests can tour the hotel's cellar to learn about Basque wines, including txakoli, a crisp sparkling white that pairs perfectly with the region's seafood. Once considered a simple house wine, the Basque staple received its first Designation of Origin in 1989.

For a more hands-on experience, Palacio Arriluce Hotel offers harvest tours at one of Biscay's leading txakoli producers, Bodegas Itsasmendi. From late September to mid-October, guests can pick grapes by hand, sample local varieties and sip freshly pressed grape juice straight from the tanks. The tours conclude with tastings of the final product. Each vintage has a distinctly Atlantic feel, with high acidity and salinity, and notes of citrus and herbs, reflecting the landscapes of the Basque coast. ZOE BELL

HOW TO DO IT: The two-night Flavours of the Basque Country package starts from €1,600 (£1,387) for two on a B&B basis, including a meal at Delaunay and the harvest tour. Doubles from €400 (£347), B&B. Vueling flies to Bilbao from Gatwick, Heathrow and Edinburgh. palacioarrilucehotel.com vueling.com

The Edit.

Built in 1912, Palacio Arriluce was originally owned by a marquis Moyes Bodegas Itsasmendi, offers txakoli tastings and tours

THREE MORE BASQUE CULINARY EXPERIENCES

TAKE A PINTXO TOUR

From the hotel, it's a 15-minute walk to Algorta's Old Port, a quaint fishing village with whitewashed houses and steep, cobbled streets. Take a guided pintxo tour of the neighbourhood and try bite-sized delicacies, such as fresh Cantabrian anchovies atop slices of baguette at Bar Arrantzale. smartinbilbao.com

TRY SEASONAL PRODUCE

Visit an organic vegetable farm on the coastal slopes of Bakio, a half-hour drive from Getxo. At Ekorlegi, farmer Jon Ander grows a mix of crops – from leeks and cauliflower to claw-like Buddha's hand lemons. Visitors can sample seasonal produce on guided tours with Bilbao Food Safari. bilbaofoodsafari.com

SEE THE CIDER HARVEST

Cider is another beloved Basque tipple. During the harvest season from mid-September to mid-November, travellers can tour traditional cider houses on the Sagardoa Route, which crosses the entire region. The crisp, fruity cider is often poured from height to bring out its distinct flavour. sagardoa.eus

IMAGES: GETTY, BODEGAS ITSASMENDI

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COMPETITION

WIN!

A weekend at The Tawny

This independent luxury hotel in north Staffordshire is giving readers the chance to win a two-night stay on the edge of the Peak District

The experience

Set within a 70-acre rewilded estate just outside the village of Consall, The Tawny is a world of its own. The independent hotel has reimagined the traditional country house stay, its deconstructed design meaning that the various lodgings — from wooden huts to stone cottages — are scattered across the grounds. Guests can spend their days unwinding by the outdoor heated pool, exploring the estate's lakes, woodland trails and follies or enjoying seasonal dining at The Plumicorn restaurant, which has been awarded three AA Rosettes. You'll be within easy reach of both the Staffordshire Moorlands and the Peak District National Park — a vast sweep of heather-clad hills, ancient villages and jagged, limestone outcrops. thetawnyhotel.com

The prize

One lucky winner, plus their guest, will enjoy a two-night stay in a spacious Retreat Room at The Tawny. The prize includes breakfast each morning and full access to the hotel's facilities, including the outdoor heated pool and the extensive, beautifully rewilded grounds. The prize must be booked in advance, is subject to availability and excludes school and bank holidays. It must be redeemed within 12 months of the competition closing date.

To enter

Answer the question below by visiting natgeotv.com/uk/competitions In which English county is The Tawny hotel located?

Competition closes at 23:59 on 30 September 2026. The winner must be a UK resident and aged 18 or over. The Promoter is APL Media Limited, publisher of National Geographic Traveller (UK), Highgate Studios, 33-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL. There is one prize consisting of one stay for up to two people. Only one entry per named entrant and email address will be accepted. The winner will be drawn at random. The prize is subject to availability, non-exchangeable and non-transferable. No cash alternative will be offered. For full T&Cs, visit ngtv.uk/thetawny2026

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IMAGES, JAKE EASTHAM

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South Greenland

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WHEN IN

Budapest

The most exciting experiences in the Hungarian capital celebrate both creativity and tradition, from a revived culinary institution to a new cabaret bar with a decadent edge

Hunt for Budapest's Banksy

With dazzling architectural detail at every turn — gothic spires, baroque domes, art nouveau facades — Budapest rewards those who pay attention. Among the city's small surprises are bronze miniatures scattered by Hungarian-Ukrainian guerrilla artist Mihály Kolodko. Some celebrate local heroes, others nod to the latest in the country's politics or pop culture. Examples include a Yoda figurine at the Szent Gellért tér metro station and Dracula statuette behind Vajdahunyad Castle, but new works pop up regularly. Kolodko occasionally recreates them as jewellery, too. kolodko.eu

Toast Hungary's natural wines

Honey-sweet tokaji aszú and full-bodied egri bikavér: Hungary has always made fabulous drinks. But Budapest's low-intervention wine scene has exploded — a new trend bringing together adventurous winemakers, relaxed bars and an unpretentious crowd. Settle in among the exposed brick walls of Marlou, a wine bar behind the State Opera House, for volcanic whites, aromatic orange wines or cloudy pét nats (naturally sparkling) from one of 22 producing regions. Each glass comes with a story, so arrive curious. marlouwinebar.com

IMAGES: ©PÉTER LAKATOS; COURTESY OF MARLOU WINE & BAR

Soak in the local spa culture

While visitors queue for Budapest's headline bathhouses, locals make for Lukács, where the thermal waters are said to be healing — the plaques on display are notes of gratitude left by former guests. Rotate between the outdoor pools, saunas and sunbathing terrace. lukacsfurdo.hu

Dine at Kádár Étkezde

Open since 1957, this restaurant serves hearty dishes such as slow-cooked cholent (traditional Jewish stews). When it reopened last September after a five-year hiatus, aficionados flocked back to check whether the chequered tablecloths and black-and-white photographs remained. Thankfully, it's all still there. kadaretkezde.hu

Party like it's 1925

Budapest's nightlife has a mischievous streak, and a new cabaret bar on Dob utca brings back the after-dark decadence of the city's interwar years. The calendar at Vörös Neon spans live concerts, drag shows, burlesque performances and karaoke nights — some in English. vorosneon.hu

Stroll down Bartók Béla út

This once-overlooked leafy avenue in South Buda is now one of the capital's most creative corners. The trick here is not to rush — pop into library-cafe Kelet for a coffee, try a kakaós csiga (cocoa roll) at Nor/ma bakery, then drift between the area's independent galleries and design shops.

@keletcafe @normabartok

KATA FÁRI

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MICRO TREND

China's 24-hour spas

A new wave of round-the-clock bathhouses is taking wellness to another level — bundling food, entertainment and sleep into one fun package

Seeking nirvana in pyjamas? Consider a visit to one of China's next-generation spa complexes. These 24-hour venues went viral earlier this year, with foreign visitors taking to social media to marvel at the all-in-one leisure resorts. Alongside pools, treatment rooms and saunas, you might find buffets piled with lobster and caviar, video game lounges, juice bars and cinema rooms, plus chill-out zones where attendants cater to every whim — whether that's a fruit platter or a facial. Some even offer the option to stay the night in a sleep pod.

Known as xiyu zhongxin, they have their roots in Chinese communal bathhouses: places people visited to wash and socialise, perhaps get a massage, back in the days when homes lacked bathrooms. Most of those old-style bathhouses have now gone, and in the past few years all-singing, all-dancing temples to leisure have emerged in their place. One of the first was Tenz Spa, in Shenzhen, having been redesigned in 2023 as a new-style leisure space. Here, guests can move between hot-spring pools and VR gaming rooms, Himalayan salt chambers, unlimited Häagen-Dazs ice cream stations and vast chill-out spaces with personal TVs.

Shenzhen's close proximity to Hong Kong — which has access to Western social media, unlike mainland China — has made its wellness culture more visible to foreign travellers. However, China's spa obsession is countrywide. During the Spring Festival holidays of 2025, mega-bathhouses in the frosty northeastern city of Shenyang generated more transactions than those of any other city in the country. According to Meituan, one of China's main digital service platforms, searches for 'Shenyang bathhouse' surged by 166%. One of the biggest, Qinghe Peninsula Hot Spring Resort Hotel, is a vast, multilevel hive of themed hot springs and dining halls, complete with a 168-metre outdoor infinity pool and a spot to get beer and barbecue between soaks.

Another spa destination known for affordability is Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province. On the Chinese social media app RedNote, the city's most 'liked' spa is Tang Yue, where a 20-hour pass can be bought online for just 99 yuan (about £11). This gets you access to 11 floors of fun, including karaoke booths and steam rooms with fake lava. Summing up its appeal, one RedNote user wrote: 'A place for exhausted office workers to recharge their life force — straight-up god-tier.' THOMAS O'MALLEY

THREE MORE BATHHOUSE CULTURES

JAPAN

The Japanese archipelago bubbles with more than 27,000 natural hot springs, known as onsen. Often connected to traditional inns known as ryokan, these mineral-rich pools offer more than just a restorative soak. Onsen are as much about reflecting on beauty and finding harmony in nature, with some of the best looking onto rivers, mountains and forests.

FINLAND

In Finland, steam is king. The Nordic nation's first saunas were pits hewn into the earth. These have since evolved into sleek cabins lined with birch wood. Heated to eyebrow-scorching temperatures, each has its own kiuaskivet — a pile of stones intermittently doused with water to increase humidity; ice-cold plunges are optional. There's even a vengeful saunatonttu (sauna elf), who's said to visit those who disregard sauna etiquette.

MOROCCO

Blending elements of ancient Roman bathing and Islamic ritual cleansing, the Moroccan hammam experience is equal parts purification and relaxation — and an important shared social ritual. The most traditional bathhouses are divided into a series of chambers, with visitors sweating in the steam room for a while before being exfoliated, massaged and washed by attendants.

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IMAGES: TENZ SHENZHEN, GETTY

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SPECIAL INTEREST

Model citizens

Hamburg's Miniatur Wunderland is a place of pilgrimage for railway modellers — and author Oliver Smith is one of them

Years ago, a new girlfriend was about to introduce me to her closest friends. Minutes before the grand unveiling she anxiously leaned in and whispered: "You won't tell them will you? I mean, about the model railways..."

I kept quiet that day — but I'm coming clean now. Throughout my life I've been a railway modeller. The love affair began aged seven when I received my first Hornby Flying Scotsman. It expanded in my teenage years when, amid a maelstrom of hormones, a layout took form in my parents' spare bedroom. But its crowning glory came when — aged 37 and three quarters

— I made the pilgrimage all modellers inevitably make: to the doors of Hamburg's Miniatur Wunderland, the world's largest model railway system.

Built by German brothers and rail enthusiasts Frederik and Gerrit Braun, it consists of some 10 miles of track about as wide as a 5p piece; the layout itself covers 1,694sq metres. It sprawls over multiple floors of a warehouse in Speicherstadt. Goods from all over were imported to this area in the late 19th century, and it maintains an international spirit. Miniatur Wunderland opened in 2001 as an evocation of a humdrum German town, but now

encompasses distant countries and continents. In a few steps you can cross the Rockies and the Alps. A trip to the loo might take you past the canals of Venice and the lavender fields of Provence.

It's one of Germany's most popular attractions, and from afar you might get the impression it's a frivolous one — a nice day out with the family. Visiting, I quickly come to understand it's a deadly serious operation. Soon after entering I pass the control room, from which 1,200 model trains are controlled — a little Cape Canaveral, where operators with furrowed brows study countless screens, and white-hot panic ensues whenever someone utters the word entgleisung (derailment).

All around is a subtle hissing sound — the noise railway modellers like me recognise as that of tiny wheels on tiny rails. A pantheon of trains from around the world is represented: the bright-

red trains of Switzerland chug up steep inclines, the diesels of the American West trundle by miniature mesas. And my favourites: Italian trains, whooshing along the littoral of the Cinque Terre.

Every 15 minutes day turns to night in Miniatur Wunderland — the lights are dimmed and tiny lamps come on in little streets and inside carriages. It's endless fun but also, I think, full of profound lessons. I know from my own experience, the role of the railway modeller is akin to the God of Genesis — over several days (or months or years) you build a world to your own design, sculpting landscapes

and populating them with people. Whether they know it or not, the tiny plastic figures of Miniatur Wunderland inhabit a tiny utopia: a place where the trains run on time and model planes land safely, a world devoid of wars or upheaval. It's all overseen by a benevolent, all-seeing model-maker whose hand appears from on high to put things right. I find myself lost in this small world, temporarily forgetting the turmoil beyond the warehouse walls.

And yet, upstairs in a special exhibition space, you see that model making can also shine a light on darker matters. A series of dioramas outlines the history of Germany in plastic and papier-

mache. One shows a concrete wall dividing families, another illustrates bombed-out buildings and marching figures in tiny grey uniforms. The series stretches back to prehistory and a time when no trains travelled; indeed, when no figures trod the soil on the site that's now Miniatur Wunderland. It's the human story as it might seem to someone watching from the clouds. It's oddly moving.

Miniatur Wunderland reputedly plans to build a Great Britain layout. In another life I'd volunteer my services: to help build a tiny Albion of green lawns and huffing steam engines at the heart of that great German warehouse. But that girlfriend is now my wife, and I'm worried she might derail my plans.

Oliver Smith is a travel writer and author of On This Holy Island: A Modern Pilgrimage Across Britain (£10.99, Bloomsbury).

Right: St Peter's Basilica features in Miniatur Wunderland's Italy 'theme world', which took four years to build

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Did you know?

There are more than 290,000 tiny model people at Miniatur Wunderland, with surprise scenes hidden in each section — including a diver being chased by a shark and monks repairing the Popemobile.

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IN FOCUS

Above the Arabian Sea

Aerial view of the harbour, Al Ashkharah, Oman

Photographer Ben Pipe visited Oman to experience its Arabian heritage. Unlike its neighbours, the country has restricted high-rise development, retaining a network of old settlements, castles and forts. “I spent a day exploring the traditional town of Al Ashkharah on the east coast and was drawn to its fishing area,” he says. “This shot was taken after sunrise when the beach was quiet; I loved how the turquoise water and boats contrasted with the pale sand.”

@benpipephoto

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IN FOCUS

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Giant haystacks

Photography duo captures an ancient agricultural practice in Romania

Michela Balboni and Federico Borella travelled to northeastern Romania to document one of Europe's last surviving examples of traditional haymaking. "Entire communities work together to build haystacks by hand, with families and neighbours sharing knowledge and labour," explain the photographers. The meadows, managed without fertilisers or pesticides, are also vital ecosystems, hosting a remarkable variety of plants, insects, birds and small mammals. As modernisation brings change, the haystacks in villages such as Bilbor and Bicaz represent not only cultural heritage, but also a fragile model of sustainable agriculture. @michelabalboni @federicoborella07

Did you know?

The first mainstream phone with a camera was released by Samsung in 2000. It could shoot just 20 images at a resolution of 0.35 megapixels — the human eye is thought to see at the equivalent of 576.

NEW YORK THROUGH THE DECADES

Photo book for the ages

Over half a century in the making, Harry Gruyaert's latest book is a love letter to the Big Apple in all its complicated glory. The collection of images in the Magnum photographer's intimate portrait of New York was shot over 50 years. No matter when they were taken during that period, Gruyaert's colour-rich pictures show a city that we instantly recognise — whether it's kids playing in the water of a burst fire hydrant in Manhattan in 1985; a cap-wearing doorman at the entrance to Trump Towers in 2006; or costumed superheroes parading in Times Square in 2017. The fashions may change over the pages, but New York's unique spirit remains the same. Harry Gruyaert New York; £50 thamesandhudson.com

INSET IMAGE: THAMES & HUDSON

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The Edit.

IN FOCUS

“In Kushmandi village in West Bengal, India, I came across a scene I didn’t expect: three gods gathered together, reading the paper. They were Gomira dancers, part of a dying tradition where men carve wooden masks representing Hindu deities and travel from village to village performing their stories. In my shot, myth meets reality, and gods pause to read the headlines.”

PHOTOGRAPHY ARNAB SARKAR @CLICKZLENS

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Italy's

REASONS TO VISIT, REASONS TO STAY

Think of Italian islands and most likely Sardinia and Sicily spring to mind. Beyond the coasts of these megastars, you'll find quiet countryside villages, as well as over 400 smaller, little-known isles — from the Tuscan Islands to the Tremiti archipelago off the coast of Puglia — making up Italy's rich, diverse Mediterranean cache. Some of the finest spots are visited almost solely by Italians, and in the quieter shoulder seasons, only the small resident populations are left. The travellers who join them are lucky enough to experience a sliver of authentic local life.

WORDS ELENA LURAGHI, ALICIA MILLER, JESSICA VINCENT & FARIDA ZEYNALOVA PHOTOGRAPHY FRANCESCO LASTRUCCI

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islands

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Italy.

the cheesemakers

A new generation of small-scale food producers is bringing life back to Capraia, a remote island off the Tuscan coast where goats nearly outnumber residents

WORDS FARIDA ZEYNALOVA

A droplet of warm whey bounces off Alessio Peroni's mud-spattered white Crocs as he casually confesses: "I didn't know Capraia existed until four months ago." The 28-year-old, a waiter-turned-dairy producer from Rome, is draining three kilograms of ricotta inside the small laboratory of Azienda Agricola Il Saracello, the only cheese producer on the island. "When my professor told me about this job, I first accepted, then looked the place up on the map," he says, referring to the isle of around 150 residents.

A few hours earlier, I had made the 40-mile crossing from the port of Livorno, a journey just shy of three hours by ferry. Capraia is one of seven islands in the Tuscan Archipelago and the only one of volcanic origin. Its cliffs of red and charcoal-grey rock rise abruptly from the Tyrrhenian Sea, giving it a craggy character unlike any of its neighbours: Elba, Italy's third-largest island, to the south east; Gorgona, Europe's last-remaining island prison, to the north; and to the west, the French outpost of Corsica.

Despite the quirks of its geology, Capraia remains richly Mediterranean. Much of it is cloaked in a maquis of myrtle, wild mint and helichrysum, a plant with a warm, curry-like aroma widely used in Capraiese cuisine. Part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, the island is crisscrossed with hiking trails, including one that passes by a number of palmenti (ancient stone vats used to make wine), hinting at its strong agricultural roots.

The walk inland from the port takes visitors past stone houses draped in magenta bougainvillea and coils of weathered fishing rope, with the occasional 1980s Fiat Panda 4WD coughing its way through narrow cobbled streets. It's peaceful, soundtracked by birdsong, cicadas and rumbling farm trucks. In the square, ageing locals sit beneath umbrellas of pine as the Church of San Nicola's timeworn bell strikes the half hour. It's obvious that everybody knows everybody here; even a short stay in a cafe is enough to see familiar faces pass twice.

It's a sort of peace that brings its own challenges. Many families have moved to the mainland in search of work and education — the local school has just 12 pupils. As for travellers, they're mostly Italian and come over in the summer, with winters bringing further isolation as storms cut the island off. Yet, a small community of determined artisanal producers are betting on Capraia's revival.

"People thought I was crazy when I decided to bring goats to this island," says 54-year-old Massimiliano Della Rosa, Il Saracello's founder. In 2016, the white-haired entrepreneur, a born-and-raised Capraiese, introduced

GO FURTHER

A new multi-day marathon showcases the beauty of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park. The inaugural edition of Run the Tuscany Islands takes place from 24-27 September across Capraia, Elba and Pianosa, with the chance to join single stages, the full run or a walking tour. runtuscanyislands.com

Clockwise from above: Massimiliano Della Rosa checking the cheese ageing process in Il Saracello's cellar; Capraia's 16th-century harbour tower; Il Saracello's cheeses include the mild, semi-soft primosale; Capraia is a popular destination for hikers; camosciata delle Alpi goats in the hills Previous pages: A boat tour in the Tremiti Islands

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100 comosciata delle Alpi goats from Piedmont after the island's native breed had become extinct. His flock — kept on the slopes by shepherd Fulvio Coppini — adapts well to the Mediterranean climate, he tells me, keeping a watchful eye on Alessio. But producing cheese 40 miles from the nearest mainland port is no easy feat. "It's difficult to convince young people to stay or move here."

For his part, Alessio seems to be enjoying his laid-back way of life. "The capital was too loud," he says, "I found peace here." As the sole cheesemaker at Il Saracello, he makes around 15kg of cheese every day: fresh ricotta; primosale, young and semi-soft; and mursa di Capraia. The produce is mostly sold to island businesses and in the cheesemonger by the port, yet Il Saracello's mursa won Gold at the 2019 World Cheese Awards.

Massimiliano beams as he shows me around a cold room where stacks of pungent cheese wheels hijack my nostrils. When I try a bite of the prize-winning mursa, it's unmistakably Capraiese: rich, creamy goat's cheese, giving way to the warm aroma of the helichrysum, grazed on by the animals that roam the island's volcanic hills.

WINE NOTES

Leaving Il Saracello, I stroll back down to the port, where a small gift shop run by Federico Ferrarini sells more of the island's small-batch produce. There's honey from Federico's wife, Roberta Bonomo, who revived her father-in-law's small apiary after he died in 2015. At her estate, San Rocco in Capraia's inland hills, she works 12 hours a day to produce a range of honeys, as well as salt blended with edible wildflowers. Next to her jars are small bags of capers, hand-harvested by husband-and-wife team Daniele Molinari and Angela Malaguti of Azienda Agricola

La Sorgente. The couple moved to Capraia from Modena in Emilia-Romagna and stayed put, drawn by the island's close-knit community.

The next day, I head to the slopes of Monte Castello — the island's highest peak — to meet a few of the wine producers working these once-abandoned agricultural lands. The trail we drive up is little more than a narrow ribbon of dust and rocks carved into the mountainside. We buck and jerk our way towards Azienda Agricola La Mursa, a four-acre vineyard run by 35-year-old Francesco Cerri, a thick-bearded, third-generation Capraiese.

"I started growing grapes 10 years ago," he says. "The microclimate of Capraia — where summers are short and warm, and winters wet and windy — is well suited to delicate grape varieties." Francesco produces extremely limited quantities of wines such as Sulàna, a slightly spicy red made from grenache grapes, which he sells online and directly from the vineyard. We're grappling through the vines when I ask him about the large tattoo on his arm. "It's of the goddess Venus," he says proudly. "Legend has it that when she rose from the glittering waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, her necklace snapped and dropped seven pearls into the ocean, creating the seven islands of the Tuscan Archipelago."

When I query if there's competition between him and the island's few other winemakers, the answer is a firm no. Producers here work together, Francesco says, helping each other with everything from ordering bottles to borrowing barrels. One of them is Alice Bollani, who, when not working in sales and marketing or helping at a local cafe by the port, tends to the 14-acre Azienda Vitivinicola La Piana, set within Capraia's former penal colony — farmed by prisoners until its closure in 1986 — high up in the hills.

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Italy.

We meet at Francesco's vineyard and she drives me up to her winery, which still bears remnants of its criminal past, with cells fronted by rusting bars.

The view from up here stretches across trees and grape terraces to the sapphire-blue sea, speckled only by a small cluster of circular fish farms. Inside her factory, with the help of three staff, she produces around 17,000 bottles of red, white and rosé wines a year. As we look at the equipment inside, she pops the cork on one bottle and pours me a glass of her favourite: the copper-hued Rosa della Piana 2025. She runs wine-tasting sessions from the factory, but, with investment from the government, she wants to transform the building into a bigger and more successful agrotourism experience for tourists.

I can't help but ask why, on top of her two jobs, she decided to take on another one. Being this isolated has forced Capraia's locals to be resilient and versatile, she tells me — to have multiple jobs to preserve, and celebrate, the island's deep agricultural heritage. "You can't be normal here," Alice says. "If you have normal ideas or want to do normal things, you shouldn't be in Capraia." Thinking back to locals like Alessio, who signed his contract before he even knew where Capraia was, it feels as though she might be right.

HOW TO DO IT: Fly direct to Pisa from multiple UK airports. From there, it's a 15-minute train journey to Livorno, then a 2h45m ferry ride to Capraia with Toremar. Accommodation on Capraia includes 8 Saracino Boutique Suites. From € 140 (£120). toremar.ir

THREE RESTAURANTS TO TRY

1 IL CARABOTTINO There's no menu at this outdoor seafood restaurant, where diners eat fresh-caught fish under pine trees right next to Capraia's 16th-century fort. What you're served depends on the catch of the day, but a fixed price gets you a bottle of wine, dishes like cuttlefish pâté and pennette pasta with barracuda, as well as desserts, coffee and liqueur. +39 333 393 8002

2 AGRITURISMO VALLE DI PORTOVECCHIO

A husband-and-wife duo run this stone farmhouse in the former penal colony of Porto Vecchio, at the top of a narrow, winding road above the port, where they produce their own honey, liqueurs and jams. Dinner is served as a fixed menu — a succession of seasonal appetisers, two main courses, wine and dessert. Be sure to book in advance. isoladicapraia.it

3 ARURA Just steps from the harbour, family-run Arura champions the island's local ingredients. Drinks include a blonde beer infused with fragrant helichrysum, while the menu features dishes such as lasagne made with mouflon (wild sheep introduced to the island decades ago). There's also pinsa, an oval Roman flatbread topped with grilled vegetables, and nepitella, an aromatic herb that's part of the mint family and widely used in Tuscan cooking. @arura_capraia

From left: Winemaker Francesco Cerri in the La Mursa vineyard; Roberta Bonomo's bees in a hive on the San Rocco estate; Capraia's harbour as seen from the ferry approaching from Livorno

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Italy.

LIKE THE SOUND OF CAPRAIA? TRY...

PANTELLERIA

FOR LAUDED WINEMAKING

This Sicilian isle feels plucked from imagination. Closer to Tunisia — which on clear days appears on the horizon — than mainland Italy, it has brooding black cliffs, aquamarine bays and roaring winds. Early autumn is best, when the heat has mellowed, the beach-going crowds have largely departed and the harvest is in full swing. Traverse the island's charcoal-hued hiking paths, spotting zibibbo grapes hanging from vines — trained using ancient, Unesco-listed methods — or drying slowly on racks. This process concentrates sugars and brings honeyed apricot notes, making a sweet drink like liquid gold; there are plenty of tasting rooms, including Solidea, in the north west, solideavini.com

SALINA

FOR UNEXPECTED DISHES

Lush and laid-back, Salina — where the three arms of the Aeolian archipelago meet, north of Sicily — flies under the radar compared to its neighbours, but not for lack of appeal. Two extinct stratovolcanos provide both good looks and prime hiking terrain, but the island is also known for the Salina caper, a registered Slow Food speciality that's handpicked during summer dawns and preserved in sea salt. Let local guide Giuseppe la Malfa walk you through flourishing plants, followed by a tasting that showcases the bud's intensely tangy, floral profile. Later, dine at hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant Signum, where chef Martina Caruso incorporates the ingredient into diverse gourmet dishes. Caper ice cream, anyone? viatour.com hotelsignum.it

ALICUDI

FOR REMOTENESS

No cars, no paved roads, no public street lighting, and local donkeys or mules for taxis. That's what you'll get on this proudly rustic Aeolian isle, dominated by a photogenic roundel of extinct volcano. You're here mostly for serenity, nature and challenge — even reaching the local school requires climbing some 350 steps from from the port, itself little more than a few small hotels and a single bar, L'Airone. Filo dell'Arpa, the island's 675-metre peak, is accessed via steep, moderately challenging paths up terraced hillsides. AM

IMAGES: GETTY, ALAMY

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Cristo di Berti, e land set installatori over the old site of Gittellino village Right from low Artist Rossana Treomba by her instalations at the Antler Epicentro della Memoria Viva. Cantieri colturali alla Cogno Paloma

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Italy.

the visual artist

Italy's first Capital of Contemporary Art, Gibellina in western Sicily has brought together painters, photographers and other creatives paying tribute to its turbulent past and resilient spirit

WORDS JESSICA VINCENT

Inside a low-lit basement, three red neon signs glow against bare concrete walls. The first spells out the Italian word memoria (memory) in full. In the second, two letters have disappeared. By the third, only two remain visible, the rest swallowed by darkness. Artist Rossana Taormina watches as I study her latest installation, its light glinting off the gold earrings touching her shoulders. "Memory and landscape have always been a theme in my work," she says. "My identity took shape here."

I'm at the Belice Epicentro della Memoria Viva in the town of Gibellina Nuova (New Gibellina), where Rossana is exhibiting her work as part of Italy's first Capital of Contemporary Art programme. The museum tells the story of the earthquakes that tore through the Belice Valley in western Sicily in 1968, killing more than 300 people and leaving tens of thousands homeless. Gibellina Vecchia (Old Gibellina), the town's original iteration six miles uphill to the east, was one of several agricultural centres reduced to rubble.

Born in the valley four years after the disaster, Rossana spent her childhood in temporary tents and metal-sheet settlements. Many of her family's photographs were lost; growing up, she'd sit with her grandmother, inventing stories around the fragments that remained. "The ruins fed my imagination," she says. "Through a child's eyes, I saw beauty in them." She now lives and works in nearby Palermo, but Belice continues to shape her practice.

Rossana isn't the first artist to find inspiration in the earthquake's aftermath. Some two decades after the event, the late Italian sculptor Alberto Burri transformed the ruins of Gibellina Vecchia into a sprawling work of land art known as the Cretto, Italian for 'crack'. From a distance, the Cretto di Burri resembles a grey patchwork blanket draped

WORTH THE DETOUR

Once an abandoned industrial complex, Palermo's former Ducrot furniture factory has been transformed into Cantieri Culturali alla Zisa, one of Sicily's most exciting cultural hubs. Today, its old warehouses house artist studios, galleries, theatres and cinemas, with a year-round programme of exhibitions, live performances and outdoor festivals, many free to attend. cantiericulturalizisa.it

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across the Sicilian countryside, soft hills painted in green and straw yellow — olive groves, vineyards, wheat fields stretching as far as the eye can see. Look closely, and you'll notice it's made of blocks of concrete, each sealing districts of the ghost town beneath it. Visitors can walk narrow corridors hemmed in by sun-warmed walls, tracing what were once streets and alleyways.

The Cretto aimed to preserve what had been lost — but also turn a new leaf. "My father said beauty was a necessity, not a luxury," says Antonella Corrao, daughter of the late Ludovico Corrao, the mayor who oversaw the creation of Gibellina Nuova. We meet at Fondazione Orestiadi, an arts foundation her father established to champion contemporary art in the Belice Valley, where Antonella and her sister Francesca Maria now serve as co-presidents. "There had been too much suffering, ugliness, pain," she says, her gold bangles jingling as she gestures. "Only art could save the soul of Gibellina."

It was a bold idea. Over the 1970s and 80s, Ludovico Corrao invited some of Italy's leading architects, sculptors and artists to help shape Gibellina Nuova. An enormous metal star straddles the road leading to the town centre. Beyond it, low, grey apartment blocks sit alongside supersized sculptures made of metal, stone and concrete. There's a bright white dome rising above the rooftops like a giant observatory. A huge concrete building curves into the sky. The whole scene feels surreal, as if pieces of a modern art gallery have been dropped into the middle of the Sicilian hinterland.

REPAINTING THE PICTURE

Today, Gibellina and the surrounding valley are home to over 5,000 works of art by some of Italy's best-known contemporary artists — an extraordinary number for a town of around 3,600 people. It's thanks to these cultural riches that Gibellina has been recognised as the country's first Capital of Contemporary Art in 2026. Throughout the year, a programme of exhibitions, performances and artist residencies will take over its striking buildings, some of which have never opened to the public before.

Among them is the Teatro di Consagra, a hulking, wave-shaped structure pierced by giant oval openings, with a street running through it. Designed by the late Sicilian sculptor Pietro Consagra, it remained an empty shell for decades, without stage or seating. Now, it's welcoming visitors for the first time, as an exhibition space. When I arrive, the sound of crashing waves and a tolling bell echoes across the bare concrete interior. At the far end of the theatre, where the stage likely would have been had the project ever been completed, three giant screens show a tyre with a bell strapped to it bobbing in the sea — a work by Albanian multimedia artist Adrian Paci, inspired by an ancient legend of a church bell lost off Italy's Adriatic coast.

"People often talk about Gibellina as an open-air museum," says Andrea Cusumano, a Palermo-based artist and the artistic director behind the Capital of Contemporary Art programme, as we walk through the town centre. "I almost find that offensive. First of all, it's a

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town where people live. I don't think we should be afraid of transforming cultural places into everyday places."

We pass a tall concrete pillar with outstretched wings and a giant stone wheel; a rusted metal sculpture; a mural of three eyes staring at me from a wall. Eventually, we arrive at the Sistema delle Piazze, five interconnected plazas stretching for a quarter of a mile. There's little shade apart from a few palm trees, and the fountains, no longer plumbed in, are empty but for the odd deflated football.

Architects Franco Purini and Laura Thermes designed the squares as a meeting place, but there's no one here. "Locals are a little afraid of inhabiting them," Andrea tells me. "It's almost as if the city is missing an instruction book." Many hope the 2026 events will breathe new life into these spaces. "There's still room for Corrao's dream," Andrea says, "it just needs to be adapted to our times."

As I'm about to leave, a group of children wheel their bikes across the piazza, filling it with laughter. For the first time all afternoon, Gibellina Nuova's vast square feels alive. In that moment, I remember something Antonella Corrao had told me earlier. When asked which monument in Gibellina mattered most, her father had a simple answer: "Human beings," she said. "It was never about art. It was always about people."

HOW TO DO IT: Fly direct from UK hubs to Palermo; Gibellina is around an hour's drive inland. Audley Travel has a 12-day tailormade Sicily self-drive trip from £4,650 per person, including flights, car hire, B&B accommodation and excursions. Persefone Travel arranges private and customisable guided day tours in Sicily. gibellina2026.it audleytravel.com isoladipersefone.com

POGGIOREALE VECCHIA

Just 30 minutes from Gibellina, the ruins of Poggioreale Vecchia have remained frozen in time since the 1968 Belice earthquake. Following a major regeneration project, the town is set to reopen to visitors later in 2026, with plans to transform some of its abandoned buildings into cultural spaces. "What was once the symbol of a tragedy could become a source of development," mayor Carmelo Palermo says. Among the first major openings is the Multimedia Museum of Casa Agosta, housed inside a restored noble residence, where photographs recovered from the rubble have been transformed into animated projections showing everyday life before the earthquake. From there, visitors will be able to wander streets where elaborately painted ceilings, crumbling palazzi and fig trees growing through abandoned windows remain much like they were left in 1968. The mayor hopes the reopening will attract investment to restore more buildings, creating jobs and encouraging younger generations to stay. "Tourism is just the first step," he says. "Our dream is to bring life back to the town." visitpoggioreale.it

From left: Antonella Corrao, co-president of Fondazione Orestiadi; the Museum of Mediterranean Crafts at Fondazione Orestiadi; Gibellina Nuova's system of interconnected squares; an exhibition inside the Teatro di Consagra, part of Italy's first Capital of Contemporary Art programme

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Italy

LIKE THE SOUND OF GIBELLINA? TRY...

PROCIDA

FOR CULTURE

When Neapolitans want to escape for a summer weekend, they set their sights on this artsy island less than an hour's ferry ride from the city. One of the main filming locations of the 1994 Italian classic Il Postino, it was named Italy's Capital of Culture in 2022 and retains a creative air. The main draw is perhaps the fishing village of Marina Corricella, where candy-coloured houses tumble down a hillside. Elsewhere, Palazzo d'Avalos is a converted 16th-century palace and later prison that now hosts a contemporary gallery.

ELBA

FOR VARIETY

Much smaller than Sicily or Sardinia but bigger than any other Italian isle, Elba is the Goldilocks of holiday islands. Napoleon Bonaparte's 1814 exile spot, the Tuscan outpost has two elegant villas built by the former emperor. There's also a cable-car up Monte Capanne and vineyards producing sweet passito wine. The winds are stubborn and locals pick their beaches accordingly, heading to the smooth pebbles of Spiaggia di Sansone or the golden stretches of Cavoli depending on how it's blowing.

FAVIGNANA

FOR LOCAL REINVENTION

Cast off Sicily's west coast, Favignana draws summer visitors for its stunner of a beach, Cala Rossa. But shoulder season gives opportunities to dive into rich local traditions, which include tuna fishing. Once one of the Mediterranean's largest tuna fisheries, the Florio complex has been transformed into a time-warp museum with 1970s canning tins, nets and other items once used for the mattanza (tuna harvest). At the other end of the site, Camparia is a modern lifestyle hub with a contemporary art space and restaurant. camparia.com

PALMARIA

FOR A QUIET ESCAPE

Barely parted from mainland Liguria, Palmaria — the largest and only accessible island in the La Spezia archipelago — is reached by a five-minute ferry ride. Despite the minimal extra effort needed to get here, it's much quieter than nearby Cinque Terre. Trails include Il Giro dell'Isola, a four-mile loop around the island. Walk it anticlockwise; it'll culminate with a view over the town of Portovenere, with the colourful houses characteristic of the Italian Riviera. AM

Above: Marina Corricella is a colourful fishing village on Procida

IMAGE: GETTY

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Italy.

the diver-researcher

Off the coast of Puglia, the Tremiti Islands offer an underwater world of natural and archaeological treasures. One local is determined to preserve them

WORDS ELENA LURAGHI

“See that cliff? That’s where we discovered black coral, 50 metres below the surface,” says diving instructor Adelmo Sorci, steering the inflatable boat through shimmering shoals of fish. In the soft morning light, the water around the Tremiti Islands is so transparent, I feel I could peer down and see the deep marine forest. But, for today at least, the sea keeps its secrets — much in keeping with the character of the region. “These are solitary islands,” says Adelmo, “a place that belongs to nature.”

I’m on a tour with operator Marlin Tremiti around the five-strong archipelago off the coast of Puglia, Italy’s only island group in the southern Adriatic. Despite its diminutive size — barely more than a square mile of land in total — it’s been a marine reserve for almost 40 years. Sponges, molluscs, fish species like saddled seabream, damselfish, scorpionfish, dusky grouper — all can be spotted using only a mask and snorkel. Deeper down, black coral paints the seabed.

“When I first came here 25 years ago on a diving trip, they were little more than a dot on the map, unknown even to Italians,” says Adelmo of the islands. Now, during the summer, the rich waters draw day-trippers from the Puglian coast and neighbouring Molise region, as well as some 2,500 longer-term travellers who spend the warm months here. “Then, by mid-September, everyone leaves and tranquillity returns.”

With sun-bleached hair and tanned skin, Adelmo is one of roughly 400 year-round residents. He was born in

central Italy’s Marche region, but his passion for diving brought him to San Domino, the Tremitis’ unofficial capital — where most ferries from the mainland dock — and one of two inhabited outposts in the archipelago. Here, he founded Marlin Tremiti, a dive centre that offers excursions and courses, as well as scenic boat tours.

We circle San Domino. First comes Baia dei Pagliai, with towering limestone shaped like haystacks. Then, Cala degli Inglesi, where the steamship Lombardo — once commanded by Italian general Giuseppe Garibaldi during the military campaign that helped unify Italy — sank in 1864. Finally, Cala delle Rondinelle, named for the swallows (rondini in Italian) that nest here each spring.

The sea mirrors the white cliffs, punctuated by dozens of caves. Above stretches a dense forest of Aleppo pines, their twisted trunks and canopy blanketing the island. A handful of whitewashed houses peek through, including the retreat once owned by the late Lucio Dalla, one of Italy’s most influential and beloved singer-songwriters of the last century, who found inspiration in the Tremitis’ quiet and its unspoiled nature.

Adelmo brings my attention back to the beauty below. “It’s all an open-air laboratory,” he says, pointing to a buoy marking a spot where studies are taking place. Profits from Marlin Tremiti fund a scientific research arm, the Laboratory of the Sea. Like much of the Adriatic, the seabed of the Tremiti Marine Reserve is facing slow degradation. Meadows of Posidonia seagrass — which produce oxygen, absorb CO₂ and provide shelter for countless fish species — are threatened by heavy metals. Meanwhile, underwater archaeological sites found just a dozen metres from the shore — from 2,000-year-old shipwrecks to Second World War bombers — are increasingly vulnerable to corrosion.

ISLAND SOUNDTRACK

Originally from Bologna in Italy’s north, Lucio Dalla first visited the Tremiti Islands as a teenager and regularly returned to escape the limelight. He wrote some of his most famous songs here — Piazza Grande, Come è Profondo il Mare and 4 marzo 1943, as well as Luna Matana, an album named after one of the islands’ most beautiful, crescent-shaped bays.

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SEPTEMBER 2026 © 63

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Italy.

Every day, Adelmo and his team of geologists and marine biologists collect data and develop practical solutions. They raise awareness by organising seabed clean-ups and hosting summer events like the San Domino Posidonia Festival, which features talks with researchers, underwater photographers and other experts. Their latest initiative is Project 3DM/IT, modular structures produced using zero-impact materials. “Once placed on the seabed, they’ll encourage marine regeneration, acting like an artificial reef,” explains Adelmo. “I hope they can eventually be replicated around the world.”

The same love of the sea that brought Adelmo here is what pulls Tremitesi back to their home islands year after year. “The lack of schools forced many families to move to the mainland,” says Enrico Massone, a young islander I meet later that day, pointing towards a group of children playing in San Domino’s central square. The piazza is small and paved white, with benches, palm trees and low buildings housing a few bars and restaurants. “Living here out of season isn’t easy.”

During the winter, Enrico stays on the mainland with his wife Marta and their four-year-old son. But, like many Tremitesi, he returns as soon and as often as he can. In summer, he takes visitors on trips around the archipelago on his boat, the Sagittario. “This is where our roots are — and perhaps our future lies,” he says. “These islands, with their handful of beaches, and their evenings where going out for dinner is about as lively as it gets, have something truly magical.”

HOW TO DO IT: Gateways to reach the Tremiti Islands include Pescara, in the province of Abruzzo, which has direct Ryanair flights from Stansted. Ferries reach San Domino in around 1h15m and depart from Termoli, a 1h15m train ride from Pescara. The Touring Club Italiano Villaggio Tremiti resort has bungalows sleeping four from €560 (£476) per adult for a week’s stay full board, including activities such as boat tours, snorkelling and island tours. ryanair.com traghetti-tremiti.it villaggi.touringclub.it

From left: San Nicola's fortified village; a view from the ramparts to San Domino

Previous pages, clockwise from far left: Adelmo Sorci on a boat tour; snorkelling is popular in the Tremiti Islands; the view from the top of Pagliai cliff in San Domino; biology samples examined at the Marlin Tremiti headquarters on San Domino; the Laboratory of the Sea, the research arm of Marlin Tremiti, works to prevent underwater degradation

Q&A: RACHELE DI PALMA ON SAN NICOLA

Born in the archipelago, the art historian guides visitors around San Nicola, a Tremiti island where history and legend are inseparable

WHERE DOES YOUR PASSION FOR ART AND HISTORY COME FROM?

My grandmother. She used to tell me fairytales woven with local folklore. Storytelling became part of who I am.

SAN NICOLA IS...

A place of exile. The town hall stands on the remains of the Roman villa of Julia the Younger, granddaughter of Emperor Augustus, sent here in 8 CE. Flanking it are houses built during the Fascist period for political dissidents.

WHAT'S THE MAIN ATTRACTION?

The fortified village on the island's highest point, enclosed within the walls of a castle. It's home to the only abbey in Italy found in the middle of the sea. You can visit its cloisters and church, with mosaic floors.

WHAT ABOUT A QUIET SPOT?

From the far side of the island, you can see Pianosa, a nature reserve with some of Italy's strictest conservation rules, including a ban on sailing within 500 metres of its coastline. During the day, it's a faint line on the horizon; at night, the lighthouse gives it away. Visits with Rachele can be organised with a stay at Touring Club Italiano Villaggio Tremiti. villaggi.touringclub.it

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Italy.

LIKE THE SOUND OF THE TREMITI ISLANDS? TRY...

STROMBOLI

FOR UNIQUE NATURE

Cloaked in an eruptive haze for the past two millennia or more, Stromboli is one of the world's few continuously active volcanoes. There are just 500 permanent residents on the namesake island, part of northern Sicily's Aeolian archipelago, and villages at the mountain's foot offer boutique accommodation in cubic white houses. Many visitors come for the hiking trails, at their best in spring and autumn; certified guides can give access to otherwise-restricted areas. Alternatively, sunset cruises anchor by the island's 'stream of fire', giving travellers the opportunity to watch glowing rocks tumble towards the sea under a star-filled sky.

PONZA

FOR BOATING

Some of Italy's isles are best seen from the water, including the Pontine Islands off Lazio, lined with dramatic rockfaces and hidden grottoes. On Ponza — increasingly popular with privacy-seeking, high-net-worth travellers — Chiaia di Luna (Moon Beach) is a perfect crescent backdropped by 100-metre-high white rock. Due to crowds, mooring in high summer can be tricky, but charter a skippered boat through operators such as Sailogy in June or September and you'll find it far quieter. With your own vessel, you can also visit nature reserves like Palmarola island; tunnels carved into the coastline at Grotte di Pilato; and the Roman-era town of Porto Vecchio on nearby Ventotene. sailogy.com

CAPRERA

FOR PRISTINE BEACHES

The entirety of the Maddalena archipelago, sprayed off northeastern Sardinia, is a protected national park — and little wonder given the neon-blue waters, sun-bleached rockfaces and icing-sugar shores. Budelli is famed for its pale-pink sands, but it's banned to set foot on it. For a place to lay a towel, head to Santa Maria island, which has many family homes, or wild Spargi, accessible by private boat. Caprera, connected to the main island of La Maddalena by a 600-metre bridge, has pine forests and electric-blue coves. To visit protected highlights such as Cala Coticcio and Cala Brigantina, you'll need a ticket (there's a limit of 60 people per day) and, in some cases, a certified hiking guide. AM

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES, GETTY

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Italy.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

WHEN SHOULD I GO?

There's a fine balance between swerving high-season crowds and missing out; it's not unusual for many smaller islands to virtually close outside of the warmer months. Do some digging on your destination in advance, ensuring ferries are running, and that sites and restaurants are operating. Check weather patterns too, as heatwaves are increasingly common during summer, while winter storms may cancel crucial ferry connections.

HOW CAN I GET THERE?

With the exception of the main islands, Sicily and Sardinia, which are serviced by various flights, most destinations are reached by either passenger-only aliscafo (hydrofoil) or a larger traghetto (ferry). Big mainland ports across the country serve different island

groups. Typically, you can access the Campanian Archipelago and the Aeolian Islands from Naples; the Tuscan Archipelago from Piombino or Livorno; the Pontine Islands from Anzio; and the Tremiti Islands from Termoli.

HOW DO I GET AROUND?

A hire car is a must on larger islands such as Sardinia, Sicily and Elba if you want to explore. During peak periods, non-resident cars can be banned from moderate-sized islands, including Ischia, which means either hiring on-island at an inflated price or taking the (typically good) public bus networks. Some of the tiniest isles have few paved roads — even none — so you'll need to rely on local public transport (whether micro-buses or donkeys) or walk. In Italy, you don't need a boating licence to drive a boat under 40hp;

hire options abound in relevant destinations.

HOW FAR IN ADVANCE SHOULD I BOOK?

Domestic travel in Italy is popular, and while some islands may be virtually unknown to UK travellers, they may be favourites among locals. Peak summertime is incredibly busy, and on micro-islands such as Alicudi, where accommodation is limited, you need to plan as far in advance as possible — up to a year. Shoulder season dates in May or September require significantly less planning (four to six months), or as little as a few weeks if you're heading to bigger islands such as Sicily and Sardinia.

WHO CAN HELP?

Italian-focused operators like Citalia and Italy Charme offer

tailored trips to many of the islands covered here. There are also a handful of companies specialising in the larger islands, including Just Sardinia and The Sicilian Experience. On more remote isles, you'll need to DIY. citalia.com italycharme.com justsardinia.co.uk thesicilianexperience.co.uk

WILL THERE BE A LANGUAGE BARRIER?

While it's always good form to know a few Italian phrases, in higher-end tourism hubs such as Ischia you'll be able to get by in English. In moderately well-known spots like Ponza or Elba, you'll be able to check into hotels and order meals without Italian, but a good translation app is advised to help you communicate. On small or very rural islands, expect virtually zero English, as well as heavy regional dialects. AM

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THE OLD WAYS

The Silk Road may now only be a memory, but its influence lives on in the peoples of Central Asia. On a journey through Uzbekistan in the footsteps of ancient merchants and pilgrims, it’s possible to catch glimpses of the artistic traditions, stories and radical religious ideas that once flowed along the legendary trade route

WORDS: SAM KEMP. PHOTOGRAPHY: AISHA NAZAR

SEPTEMBER 2026 ■ 73

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Uzbekistan.

There are ghosts in these cliffs. Grazing the weathered stone with the flat of my hand, I follow my guide Sherzod Norbekov as he climbs over fragrant mint and mangled rock until, at last, we reach a point where the valley walls have eroded to reveal a set of gleaming panels. There, I see my spectres — two willowy figures frozen in a ritual dance, still ecstatic millennia after being carved onto the rock. And they’re not alone. The closer I look, the more life emerges: a sacrificial bull ripe for the slaughter; a herd of ibex; a long-extinct aurochs with bowmen spread about its hooves.

Clockwise from top left: Sherzod Norbekov and Ali Bazarov identifying herbs; Sarmish Gorge has around 10,000 ancient rock carvings; the valley has long been a corridor for nomadic peoples; three sisters sit down for lunch in Sarmish Gorge Previous pages from left: The central courtyard of Bukhara’s Kalon Mosque; the weathered hands of Nuratau shepherd Shavkat Odilov

Spring has come to Uzbekistan, one of thousands that these prehistoric forms have witnessed since they were etched onto the walls of Sarmish Gorge. Carved by the flow of the Sarmish River between the Zarafshan Valley and the Kyzylkum Desert, a fertile corridor through which people and animals have flowed for millennia, the great stone labyrinth is home to a collection of 10,000 petroglyphs. Its walls bear traces of practically every group of people who have passed through these lands, with the oldest carvings dating back to around 7000 BCE. “The rest of Central Asia is either desert, mountain or steppe. Uzbekistan was the only place people could settle.” Sherzod says, tilting his wide, red cheeks upwards. “Persians, Mongols, Arabs, Sogdian traders from Iran — they all left something.”

For centuries, Uzbekistan and its Central Asian neighbours (Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan) lay at the very heart of the ancient world. This was the crossroads of civilisation, a place where the comings and goings of people gave birth to a complex web of tales, traditions and spiritual beliefs that live on to this day.

None of that movement would’ve been possible without the Silk Road — that great tangled web of trade routes that allowed produce, precious goods and radical ideas to flow throughout Eurasia for thousands of years. Over the next few days, I’ll be travelling between two of the road’s greatest oasis towns: Bukhara and the fabled city of Samarkand 140 miles to the east, following shepherd’s trails and attempting to uncover old caravan routes as I hike across a portion of the wild Nuratau Mountains. A westerly stretch of the Tien Shan range, its valleys once

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1. 2017年，公司与上海浦东发展银行股份有限公司签订了《关于使用部分闲置募集资金进行现金管理的协议》。

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Uzbekistan.

served as gateways for continent-crossing merchants heading east towards Afghanistan and India.

Joining me is Sherzod, founder of Nuratau Travel, a local adventure tour operator running trekking and horse-riding tours that stitch together some of the region’s most isolated communities, with nights spent in quiet, family-run homestays. He’s a child of the Nuratau Mountains himself, which explains the joy on his face when, reaching the top of the Sarmish Gorge, we spy their foothills rising from the steppe. Far in the distance, the highest peak of all lies like a great gnarled citadel. “It’s called Hayatbashi,” he says, raising a smile that turns his face into a landscape of creases and folds. “It means ‘the beginning of life’.”

The source of knowledge

Our journey begins a day earlier in Bukhara. Once a major trading hub along the Silk Road, its culture of exchange allowed new ideas to flourish, with the honey-hued city serving as a major wellspring for Islamic art and culture for centuries. It’s here I submit myself to a wash in Hamam Bozori Kord, the 15th-century bathhouse where every medieval traveller would have been steamed, scrubbed and pummelled on entering the city. For 30 minutes, my attendant, an Uzbek teenager with an axe to grind, bends my arms double, cracks my toes and — at one point — drives his elbow into my spine with such force that I feel one of my molars come loose. It’s less a massage and more an episode of WWE SmackDown only with more steam and naked Russian businessmen.

By the time I step out into the old town, where the riches of the Silk Road were once bought and sold, I’m practically levitating with cleanliness. Wandering its labyrinth of brick alleys, I’m alive to every detail: the instrument-makers plucking folk melodies on long-necked dutor lutes; the lavender-headed doves cooing in the mulberry trees; the trickle of Uzbek, Tajik and Armenian from the men sipping saffron tea below Kalon Mosque — its glimmering dome a lick of teal fire.

I’m so absorbed I practically bump into local guide Nilufar Nariddova when we meet on the cusp of Markaziy Bozor (‘Central Market’), her hair tied back into a tight, unyielding ponytail. As we weave among stalls piled high with dried fruits, cheeses, fabrics and petal-speckled teas, she’s eager to dispel any preconceptions I might have carried with me. “The name ‘Silk Road’ was only invented in the 19th century,” she explains. “Before that, people referred to the individual roads by what they carried. You had the silk road, the jade road, the lapis lazuli road and so on. They carried precious cargo, and it all found its way here.”

For Nilufar, Bukhara is one great, glimmering jewel. To me it seems more like a garden, its every gleaming tile patterned with a tangle of wildflowers. And like every garden, much lies beneath the surface, as I’m reminded in the honeyed shade of Magoki Attori mosque. This may be the oldest surviving mosque in the city, but it’s also reputed to lie on the site of an ancient Buddhist shrine. “Bukhara sat at the junction of the Silk Roads, so people from all over the ancient world came here,” Nilufar explains, ducking beneath the mosque’s crumbling portico. “That allowed for the exchange of goods, but also art forms and ideas. There’s a reason people think Bukhara’s name stems from the ancient Sogdian word for ‘source of knowledge’.”

With the evening sun spreading its tendrils along Bukhara’s mosaic-tiled streets, Nilufar takes me to meet one of the local artists keeping some of that knowledge alive. Behind a door of carved mulberry wood, we find master miniature painter Rafael Toshev at his desk in Hoopoe art gallery. All around him, the walls are strung with his latest works: impossibly intricate portraits of turban-clad scholars, caravans entering Bukhara under starry skies, and prophets wandering pomegranate orchards — all of them painted by hand on lengths of milk-white silk paper. Handing me a cup of sweet, steaming tea, he talks of the art form’s long history: of the school that existed here in the ninth century, and of the early Muslim rulers who, forbidding idolatry, destroyed every last depiction of human life in Bukhara. “During Soviet times, miniature was repressed again, because it contains a lot of religious ideology,” he explains. “I was taught by my uncles, who were given the opportunity to open schools here after we gained independence in 1991.”

The roots of Bukharan miniature art go deeper still, originating in China before flowing along the Silk Road into Iran. From there it entered Central Asia, absorbing a variety of influences along the way. Rafael’s works echo the style of the Bukhara school — distinct for its use of tones inspired by the wild landscapes the city’s itinerant population spent their lifetimes negotiating. “As this art travelled, it absorbed features of the places it passed through,” he explains. “The traditions of the people, but also the colours of the oases and deserts.”

The following morning, I find myself surrounded by those same colours. Sherzod and I hit the road early, driving through industrial-scale apricot orchards into an empty wilderness where women with gold teeth pluck chamomile from the biscuit-brown earth. The higher we go, the further we slip backwards; gold mines and gas pipelines giving way to sage-green hills where herds of Kazakh horses swirl together like starlings.

Clockwise from top left: Markaziy Bozor in Bukhara overflows with local fruit, bread, cheese and sweet treats; Magoki Attori mosque lies on the site of an ancient Buddhist shrine; Rafael Toshev of Hoopoe art gallery; the entrance to Toqi Sarrafon, one of Bukhara's medieval trading domes

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Uzbekistan.

By the time we begin our hike across the Nuratau Mountains, bound for our first homestay, the sun is already low. Leaving the car, we follow a skinny shepherds' path deep into the Kadvan Valley, fording rivers and stumbling through forests dotted with fairytale mushrooms until, at last, we hit an even older, even narrower road. "Now comes the hard part," Sherzod tells me, ushering me along a strip of rock sloped towards a surging river. Gripping anything that'll stop me from slipping into its torrent, I dig my hands and feet into the wall and shimmy for dear life, emerging onto a gallery of soaring cliffs etched with faded Quranic verses, left by the Arab merchants who passed through this valley en route to Samarkand. "Messages of good luck," Sherzod tells me later. "For anyone following the same road."

Land of wood and fire

The following morning, we leave our homestay in Sentob and begin the seven-mile hike to Majerum. The mottled skies of the previous day have cleared overnight, leaving the mountains scraping cleanly against a powder-blue sky. A light wind passes through the orchards and, just ahead of us, a shepherd drives his marbled flock across the ruins of an abandoned settlement.

In the 1950s, these communities were forcibly relocated by the Soviet government and driven to low-lying cotton-growing areas. Many villages, some of which date back to the 3rd century BCE, were left to fall apart. It was just one way in which the Soviet Union reshaped the physical and cultural fabric of these lands, having already divided Central Asia along ethnic lines, cracked down on religious expression and diverted rivers for agricultural production.

"When I was at school, we spoke only Russian," Sherzod says of that period, explaining how Tajik, Uzbek and other local languages were aired only in private, as was the case

with many local traditions, too. He pulls his phone from his pocket and shows me a sepia-toned photograph of a man in uniform, his face sallow above a blazer adorned with gleaming medals. "My father," he explains. "His whole life, he said he worked for the military. Before he died, he revealed he was KGB. Russian influence was everywhere."

This landscape has secrets of its own. We follow it over hills speckled with honey-sweet hawthorn until we find ourselves before a great pile of lichen-clad rock. It's an ancient Zoroastrian dakhma — one of the raised altars where followers of the Iranian prophet Zoroaster (circa 700-600 BCE) left their dead to be consumed by wild animals. "It was all about the worship of the elements: earth, wind, water, fire," he explains. "That's why they didn't bury the dead, to avoid contaminating the soil."

Widely regarded as the world's first monotheistic religion, Zoroastrianism was once the dominant belief system here in Uzbekistan, with its fire temples serving as key nodes along the Silk Road. "Memories of it remain," Sherzod tells me. "Our calendar is Zoroastrian, and here in the mountains the bride and groom still dance around the fire to purify themselves before marriage."

Fire worship isn't the only old belief to have rooted itself in these hills. Reaching Majerum, we pause at a local homestay for bowls of meaty noodle stew in the tall, flower-flecked grass of the family's orchard. It's here we're joined by an old friend of Sherzod's: mountain guide Ali Bazarov, his face leathered from a lifetime exploring Uzbekistan's loftiest places. After we've eaten, he drains his tea, chews through the dried apricot he's left steeping at the bottom of his cup, then guides us through the village to a rock-strewn stream swaddled with birch and willow. "Locals come here to make wishes", he says plainly. "They tie the branches with white cloth. A pagan belief, not religious."

From left: A sun-dappled garden just outside the village of Sayyod; sitting down for a homestay lunch in Majerum, its houses swaddled with fruit trees

"Now comes the hard part," Sherzod tells me, ushering me along a strip of rock sloped towards a surging river. Gripping anything that'll stop me from slipping into its torrent, I dig my feet into the wall and shimmy for dear life, emerging onto a gallery of cliffs etched with Quranic verses

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WANT SOME SPACE?

FIND IT IN AN ICELANDIC FJARA

65° 59' 22.9" N 17° 38' 46.2" W

back to iceland

TRAVEL

This is your invitation to go self searching in Iceland. You can reach out and start your odyssey now.

When planning your Iceland adventure and heading north be sure to include this secluded beach. It's not very well-known, but is a beautiful and peaceful place. The subject is the daughter of photographer Halldorn Baumundtir, childhood friend of Back to Iceland's Robert Finn is shot on location for this publication. We wanted to give you a little bit of heart and personal history with the co-ordinates.

Photo: HK Bjarnnabajle

fjara /fjara/ noun feminine (pl. fjarnt)

1. The ebb; foreshote exposed at low tide.
2. verb To recede (of the sea).

Etymology: Old Norse; cognate with Faroese fjara, Norwegian fjore.

sal /saʊːl/ noun feminine (also sala)

1. Spirit, mind, soul; the immaterial essence.

Etymology: Old English-sáwol; cognate with soul, Linked to sær 'sea' souls thought to dwell in waters before and after life.

B T I T R A V E L . I S

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Uzbekistan.

We soon meet the wish-giver of the wood: a contorted juniper rising to 20 metres or more, its fissured branches so wide that locals are able to saunter along them like boulevards. If legend is to be believed, this tree stood tall when Genghis Khan's armies swept across these lands back in the 1200s, having been planted by the soldiers of Alexander the Great during his war with Persia. "Nobody's quite sure how old it is," Sherzod counters, joining us on a stroll along one of its low-hanging limbs. "But we still have folk songs, ancient fragments, that mention it by name."

If there's anyone likely to remember them it's 87-year-old Husniya Tojieva. A shepherdess for most of her life, she's a walking, talking encyclopaedia of Uzbekistan's bayt music: folk poems sung to twisting, melancholic scales that likely flowed into these lands on the lips of nomadic peoples from Persia. With the day's hike done, we meet her for dinner at our homestay with the Bosorov family in Hayat, where we find our hosts Asal, Tugaloy and Shodmon huddled around a wood-fired oven, their eyes glued to a huge dish of simmering plov: a traditional pilaf layered with raisins, carrots and chunks of tender beef. "It's best when it's been left to cook all day," Sherzod says, eyeing the meat hungrily.

The sun is just beginning to set when Husniya and her fellow musicians Bizorgul Nazarova and Gul Qozoqova stride into the Bosorovs' garden. Wrapped head to toe in layers of patterned silk, they warm the skin of their doyra hand drums on the oven's bare flame then sit themselves beneath an apricot tree with a pot of tea. I join them there, plucking dried white mulberries from a bowl as Husniya conjures song after song. "They come from deep inside", she says. "My father drove sheep across these mountains, and when I joined him, we would sing these songs together. I repeated them again and again until they were perfect."

They are perfect — and made all the more so by the fact that Husniya has chosen to remember them. Just

before we sit down for dinner, I ask her whether she thinks people will still be singing these songs when she's no longer around to recite them. "They've been passed down for hundreds, maybe thousands of years," she replies. "My father passed them down to me, and in singing them I know I've passed them on to someone else."

The road to Samarkand

In the morning, still groggy from an evening spent raising toasts to Asal's cookery, Sherzod and I breakfast under the mulberry trees, our table overflowing with jams, breads, eggs, honey cake and mint-filled somsa pastries. "I've not slept so well in months", Sherzod groans, eyes still puffy. "I think the vodka helped."

It's just as well, because it's a long drive to Samarkand. When we finally reach the city a day later, Nuratau's last blue mountains now far behind us, we find its sun-bleached streets heavy with the scent of cedarwood and baking dough. By 10am, most of the bakeries have finished up for the day, but not Alisher Nonlari, which still has hours to go before hitting its daily quota. Three thousand loaves — no more, no less.

Behind the bakery's peeling, whitewashed walls, we find a row of wood-fired tandoor ovens glowing like doorways into the underworld. In the flour-filled room next door, a dozen or so apprentices are forming neat mounds of pale dough. As soon as they're done, the proving loaves are ferried to the master bakers, who slap them onto the inner walls of their tandoors, diving headlong into the inferno. I meet eyes with the surliest of them, Suhrob Davrano, his dark eyebrows remarkably intact. "If you bake this bread anywhere else, it won't taste the same," he says, wiping a reddened, blistered face with the T-shirt wrapped around his head. Suhrob is one of the longest-serving bakers here, and as such is fiercely protective of his city's most fabled foodstuff — not least

From left: In Samarkand, no dinner table is complete without loaves of the city's fabled bread; the ornate interior of Gur-e-Amir, the tomb of Samarkand's medieval ruler Tamerlane

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because Samarkand bread was the favourite snack of Babur, the Timurid king who left Samarkand to found India's Mughal dynasty. "The story goes that when Babur arrived in Delhi, he called for a master baker from Samarkand," he tells me. "They brought the tandoors and the knowledge, but they couldn't recreate the flavour of the bread. Because the one thing he couldn't bring was the air of Samarkand." He pulls out a bottle and uses it to douse the browning loaves. "Really, though, the secret's in the water."

I'm not surprised. After all, this is a city where water holds supernatural power. Leaving the heat, we meet local guide Khilola Abdulayeva and set out in search of Samarkand's holiest spring. We find it flowing beside the Tomb of Daniel, where Christian, Jewish and Muslim pilgrims have all gathered to pray, drink and pay their respects before the relics of the Old Testament prophet. Supposedly carried here from the Iranian city of Susa back in the 14th century, they were reburied in a 13-metre sarcophagus designed to ward off tomb raiders.

"This place is energetically very strong," Khilola says as we approach the spring. "They say you are closer to God here, that he can hear you more clearly, and that a drink from this spring cures all ills." I take a handful of the cool water and drink deeply. Just then, the imam begins a twisting, mellifluous prayer — an incantation that stills everything: the chatter, the doves, the wind in the pistachio trees. Suddenly, I'm struck by the same feeling that washed through me back in Sarmish Gorge: that sense of being watched by something very, very old indeed. I ask Khilola if in all her years In Samarkand, she's ever felt something similar. She gives me a knowing smile. "Without knowing our past, we cannot know our present. And without knowing our present, we cannot know our future."

In a land where the ancients are never far from view, I can see the value in that. ■

Just then, the imam begins a twisting, mellifluous prayer — an incantation that stills everything: the chatter, the doves, the wind in the pistachio trees

From left: Close to the Tomb of Daniel, the necropolis of Shah-i-Zinda in Samarkand is the rumoured resting place of Gutham ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad; walnuts, sugared peanuts and other sweet treats in Siyob Bozori market, Samarkand

essentials

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Turkish Airlines flies from the UK to Bukhara and Samarkand via Istanbul. turkishairlines.com

Average flight time: 10-14h.

WHEN TO GO

The period between March and June is best, especially if you want to see the mountains at their most lush. Time your arrival around 21 March and you may get to experience Navruz, an ancient Zoroastrian festival marking the spring equinox. If you're keen to try seasonal produce at its best, visit in September or October when temperatures float between 21C and 30C.

WHAT TO READ

The Silk Roads: A New History of the World (£16.99) by Peter Frankopan reveals the powerful influence of Central Asia over the centuries.

HOW TO DO IT

Nuratau Travel offers an 11-day hiking tour that combines time in the cities of Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara with days spent hiking village-to-village in the Nuratau Mountains. It costs from £1,295 per person and includes hotel and homestay accommodation, meals, airport transfers, guided tours and all domestic travel. nuratau.com

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Geärrannan Blackhouse Village – Isle of Lewis

Where 3 Next?

Book your island adventure at calmac.co.uk

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AN APPETITE FOR SURVIVAL

WORDS: AMELIA DUGGAN. PHOTOGRAPHY: KERRY MURRAY

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Isolation has long demanded resourcefulness in the Azores. Across these far-flung Atlantic islands, generations of farmers, fisherfolk and winemakers have transformed maritime trade, local know-how and fertile, volcanic landscapes into one of Europe's most distinctive food cultures

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“NOT LONG AGO, THIS WAS CONSIDERED FOOD FOR THE POOREST ISLANDERS. NOW, IT’S A DELICACY,”

says my guide José Pedro Quadros, as a cast-iron skillet of limpets — lapas in the local tongue — lands sizzling at our lunch table, heady with garlic and parsley. “The secret ingredient is a dash of pimenta da terra — a salted red pepper paste made only in the Azores,” our waiter reveals. The dark-haired, rangy man introduces himself briskly as Bruno, son of Maria Espinola who’s turned Os Amigos restaurant, here on the south shore of São Jorge island, into a local institution over the course of four decades. Napkins tucked into collars, José and I ease the golden molluscs from their crinkled half-shells, swiping hunks of white bread through the oily sauce between perfect mouthfuls of buttery, briny flesh.

After a morning spent hiking forested plateaus, drinking from springs and swimming in basalt-rimmed lagoons, I’ve worked up an appetite. And my broad-set, jovial local guide has brought me to this lively, traditional restaurant for a formula that José says has sustained life in this wild and sparsely populated archipelago: good company and hearty, locally farmed food. Families are arriving in their Sunday best from the nearby church for simple platters of fresh, juicy bigeye tuna or still-bloody beef steak. The lapas were collected that morning by local divers, I’m told — prised deftly off the rocks with a sharp, practised knife. Hard work for a small yield, but nothing islanders aren’t used to.

Settled by the Portuguese in the 15th century, the Azores’ nine fertile, still-forming

volcanic islands are cast adrift in the Atlantic, 900 miles off the coast of Europe — the ideal pit stop for vessels returning from Asia and the Americas. “Centuries of sea trade expanded our larders with spices and crops, but isolation and limited infrastructure also made our food microregional — recipes and traditions vary island to island, even village to village,” José explains over dessert — a baked flan of extraordinary creaminess, made with milk from the São Jorge’s prodigious population of pasture-grazed cows. “We’ve always had to be self-sustaining, to be clever and work with what we have to hand. We’re Portuguese, but we’re a long way from Lisbon.”

Coffee, cookies & creamy milk

That Azorean ingenuity is on full display down the coast at Vimes, a rustic village of striking, dark-stone cottages built atop a fajã — an ancient landslide, one of around 70 such hard-to-access outcrops encircling São Jorge’s crested dragon-spine. Here, the Nunes family has torn up the rule book on coffee cultivation — usually undertaken at altitudes of 200 to 2,000 metres — by harvesting Arabica from the ocean-level orchards surrounding their coffeeshop, Café Nunes.

“The Atlantic and the fruit trees give the beans something special,” Mario Nunes says, as we tour his home turf, cracking small jokes in a way I’ve encountered elsewhere on the island — a far cry from Azoreans’ hard-bitten reputation. In the kitchen, his diminutive mother, Alzira, is toasting sun-dried and hand-shelled coffee beans in a large pan,

Clockwise from top left: Faja dos Vimes village on São Jorge, home to Cafe Nunes; the cafe harvests Arabica coffee beans, seen here drying in the sun; cattle graze on the slopes of São Jorge; a skillet of fresh limpets at Os Amigos restaurant Previous pages: Hikers beat a trail to Sete Cidades, São Miguel

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Azores.

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Azores.

"WE'RE TOUGH PEOPLE. AS LONG AS WE HAVE MILK TO DRINK AND BEEF TO EAT AND THE SEA TO FISH IN, WE'RE BETTER OFF THAN MANY."

Clockwise from top left: Alzira Nunes toasts coffee beans in her kitchen; Fajã do Ouvidor lava field on São Jorge; Friesian cows at Dos Lourais Dairy Cooperative; an ocean view, seen from a hotel suite at Azores Wine Company on Pico

the natural oils giving the contents a chocolatey gloss. I want to bottle the malty, nutty smell and wake up to it every day. "Like with everything in the Azores, coffee came with immigration — from Brazil, likely in the late 18th century," Mario says. "We're not the only coffee growers in Europe, but I like to think we're the best — and you can only drink ours here."

On the cafe's terrace, gazing south across a sparkling strait towards the 2,351-metre stratovolcano on neighbouring Pico island, espresso cups arrive alongside fragrant, horseshoe-shaped espécies biscuits made with anise and cinnamon dough — a local recipe dating back to the arrival of the first spice ships. The combination is divine — the rich black coffee softening the sweet cookie as I dunk and sip in the sunshine, observing the shifting, breathing counterpane of the ocean. "Life here is slow — and that suits us," José says, just before we bid goodbye. "We often joke that we're 50 years behind the rest of the world, but when I look at what's going on today, I think maybe that's no bad thing."

It's a sentiment that's echoed by third-generation farmer Emanuel Fontes when I meet him at dusk in his meadows, five miles north along the craggy, snaking coast, where he milks his beloved herd of Holstein Friesian cows. With broad shoulders and a russet beard, the young president of the Dos Lourais Dairy Cooperative (one of three such factories on São Jorge) cuts a dashing figure. "I spend years getting to know each cow, earning their trust slowly. Each has a different temperament, like people. And when they trust you, they will trust you forever," he croons as we wait for three-dozen cows to bring themselves up from the lower pastures to his milking station. "I won't rush them; happy cows make the best milk."

Emanuel offers travellers a behind-the-scenes glimpse into some of the work that goes

into the island's most famous export, São Jorge cheese, which has had DOP status since 1986 but dates itself to Flemish migration here in the 15th century. I'd tasted it earlier in my trip with José — mild, buttery, nearly spreadable slices of four-month-aged and morsels of the drier, more robust and peppery 24-month-aged delicacy. "The volcanic soil, the salt from the sea, our herbs, the humidity — this all adds complexity to the cheese as it ripens," Emanuel explains as the first cows arrive, udders swinging, presenting their coarse flanks to Emanuel for petting. "And the fact we're using traditional cultures and raw milk. I bring five litres home every day — it's what I was raised on."

When the herd's matriarch, a huge, crotchety creature named Marquesa, finally deigns to arrive, it's time to begin. Emanuel kicks the noisy generator into life and starts affixing suction tubes to teats, filling tall metal pails with fresh milk. He hands me a small bottle to try. It smells lightly of hay and warms my palms in the cool breeze lifting off the ocean, the water now just a sheen beyond the darkening patchwork of emerald fields. A sip turns into a glug turns into an empty receptacle — it's heavenly sweet and creamy on the tongue, comforting in a way I hadn't expected.

"This year, many things are against us. I may have to reduce my herd," he says quietly when the last cow has been tended to. Fertiliser costs are up due to the ongoing Middle East conflict, cheese sales to the US are down due to tariffs and Ryanair has culled its Azores routes due to high airport fees, meaning hundreds of thousands fewer tourists. Not even remote islands remain untouched by geopolitics, it seems. "But we're tough people. As long as we have milk to drink and beef to eat and the sea to fish in, we're better off than many."

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Azores.

Volcanic viticulture

The fortitude required to weather life in the Azores strikes me fully when out on the choppy waters south of Pico island. I've joined a whale-watching safari aboard an open R1B with local operator, Espaço Talassa. Out here, with pods of bottlenose dolphins shimmying through the waves and sperm whales rising from deep trenches to nurse their young, puffing great fountains of spray into the morning air, the destination reveals itself as breathtakingly, incomparably wild. The coastal jet-black lava flows, the cone of Pico's dozing volcano and the vast horizon stretching unbroken towards the Americas — all of it seems dauntingly indifferent to human life.

"For more than 120 years, until 1989, whaling was the main industry on Pico — it took root after plagues killed off the vineyards and winemaking in the 19th century," British marine biologist Becky Milligan explains,

vying to be heard over the squabbling shearwaters wheeling overhead. Nearly a third of the world's 90 whale species pass through the nutrient-rich canyons that web the ocean beds here around the former whaling town of Lajes do Pico, she reveals. "Now we use the same lookout towers and tracking techniques to study them. Recovery for the species is slow, but we're seeing hope."

Recent years have seen a remarkable pivot for Pico's viticulture, too. Cutting through Pico's lush, rugged heartlands, I drive 45 minutes northwest to the Azores Wine Company, on the island's north-westerly tip. Here, charismatic co-founder Felipe Rocha greets me with a winning smile and a firm handshake. The winery opened in 2021 with a restaurant and six rooms — a glamorous Bond lair, all panoramic glass windows and industrial-chic flourishes, nesting amid a dark maze of currais (dry-stone walls).

"THE COASTAL JET-BLACK LAVA FLOWS, THE CONE OF PICO'S DOZING VOLCANO AND THE VAST HORIZON STRETCHING UNBROKEN TOWARDS THE AMERICAS — ALL OF IT SEEMS DAUNTINGLY INDIFFERENT TO HUMAN LIFE."

CULINARY EXPERIENCES ON SÃO MIGUEL

AZORES BREWING COMPANY

When Canadian chemist Tara McLean and Azorean engineer Edmundo Estrela moved to São Miguel and couldn't find a craft beer worth drinking, they decided to make their own. In 2024, they opened a gleaming brewery and beer garden in Ribeira Grande, complete with a bubble dome for rainy days, serving inventive small-batch beers and ales made with the fresh local spring water.

azoresbrewingcompany.com

HUNGRY WHALES

This Ponta Delgada-based food tour company has been taking small groups through the backstreets of the Azores' defacto capital since 2019, pairing cheese, wine, cakes and other Azorean specialities with history and storytelling. Family-run and now boasting its own workshop for cooking classes, it's the gold standard introduction to the island's food culture.

hungrywhales.com

QUINTA DOS SABORES

Guests at this seven-and-a-half-acre organic farm in Rabo de Peixe, on the island's north coast, can learn about permaculture on a tour of the historic property and sample a five-course seasonal tasting menu in a candlelit, converted barn. Try artfully done Azorean classics such as roast beef with sweetbreads, then stay overnight in a charming wooden caravan. quintadossaboresoficial.com

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BOUTIQUE HOTEL TEATRO

Located in the heart of Angra do Heroísmo, a Unesco World Heritage Site city, Boutique Hotel Teatro celebrates the history and culture of Terceira Island by combining heritage with contemporary elegance

Set in a beautiful 17th-century building, renovated in 2024, the hotel preserves original features such as old pipes, wood-fired ovens, baroque architecture, Azorean craftsmanship and exclusive photographs from the 1960s and 1970s.

Guests enjoy spacious rooms, locally inspired cuisine made with seasonal ingredients and relaxing facilities, including a traditional cobblestone garden, swimming pool, spa and gym, creating an intimate and authentic Azorean experience.

www.boutiquehotelteatro.com | @boutiquehotelteatro

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Azores.

Low, hand-built and basalt-black, these Unesco-protected vine enclosures once covered 15,000 acres of shorefront. “Only 1% was left when we started buying up abandoned plots and recovering old varietals more than a decade ago,” says Felipe, uncorking bottles for our afternoon wine-tasting.

The ‘we’ in question involves one of mainland Portugal’s most famous and experimental winemakers, Felip’s business partner, António Maçanita. “He recognised the intensity of the grapes here was another level,” says Felipe. “A cooperative existed, but no one was championing Pico’s wines.” We swirl and sip a trio of 2024 vintages, each showcasing a different indigenous grape. The arinto dos açores arrives like a sea breeze in a glass — all taut citrus and saline snap, reminiscent of the morning’s boat ride — followed by the terrantez do pico, its bergamot and iodine complexity hinting at something ancient, before the verdelho rounds things off with a tropical lushness. “Now we’ve reestablished Pico’s reputation in the market, the price of grapes is almost at champagne levels,” he tells me. “Locals are going back to winemaking again.”

We weave past the winery’s barrels towards dinner at Latitude restaurant, where new 10-course tasting menus, paired with the

vineyard’s storied wines, have been devised by Azorean chef Rui Batista, an intense, softly spoken young talent passionate about pioneering fine dining in this remote corner of Portugal. “A few years ago, gastronomy in the Azores was just one thing — now, it’s diversifying,” Felipe explains as Rui and a choreographed ensemble of black-clad waiters bring plates of intricate creations layering famous and unsung local ingredients.

Sweet potato croquettes sewn into a seafood garden are crowned by buttery, button-like sea snails, hand-harvested by the chef himself. A tuna tataki follows, dusted with smoked squid, then a coffee-drizzled cornmeal topped with pork skin popcorn, along with a devastatingly moist slow-cooked cut of lamb cradled by creamy fava beans. It’s an accomplished culinary dance through the Azorean larder, that continues even as the sun sinks into the ocean beyond the currais, dissolving them entirely into the darkness.

From furnace to fork

An island-hopping, twin-engine flight deposits me at the Azores’ main international airport of Ponta Delgada, on São Miguel. The jumble of dark-stone churches and modern shops seems more market town than the executive capital of the region’s largest, most developed island.

DID YOU KNOW?

Europe’s only commercial tea plantations are on São Miguel. Introduced from China in the 19th century, the tea plant thrives in the island’s mild, misty climate. Both estates produce and sell black and green teas.

From left: São Miguel is the main hub for travellers visiting the Azores; Gorreana still uses centuries-old machinery to produce its teas

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Azores.

Along serpentine roads into the interior, I head west for a hike beside the jade lakes of Sete Cidades, looping back along the north shore for a fragrant cup of green tea at Gorreana, an 1883-founded plantation that still uses century-old machinery.

Later, in a sputtering, pungent valley of sulphuric fumeroles on the banks of the glassy Lake Furnas, I meet restaurateur Manuel Oliveira. A stern-looking man with an impressive moustache, Manuel breaks into warm, fatherly smiles as I approach. He and his wife, Ana, opened Banhos Férreos 18 years ago in the nearby town of Furnas. “Come and see how we cook cozido,” he says. The unofficial dish of the Azores — cozido das furnas (a hearty, layered meat stew) — is to be my final meal on the archipelago. Beyond a wooden barrier, scattered mounds of earth are signposted with the names of local restaurants. At one, a municipal worker wearing hi-vis is shovelling soil to reveal a large steel pot, which he hoicks out of the steaming ground with a pole, and bundles into Manuel’s waiting van.

“It’s the quality of the meat that makes a great cozido,” Ana says when I’m soon seated in their homely, tiled restaurant set inside a former Furnas thermal bathing hall. White-haired, apron-clad and fresh from the kitchen, she sets before me a spectacular platter

— plump blood sausages, tender chicken legs, a juicy hunk of braising steak and a generous pork shank nested atop sweet potatoes, carrots and a half head of white lettuce. “It takes five to seven hours to cook, so we drop off our sealed pots for the warden to put in the ground at precise times during the night,” she explains as I serve myself and the soft, meat-darkened vegetables break apart in the process.

“My recipe is a classic, the way cozido has been made here for centuries. I just add a little garlic, white wine and bay leaves — and some pimenta da terra,” she says, instantly reminding me to pick up a bottle of the sweet, piquant Azorean cooking paste I’ve tasted in countless dishes during my journey.

Like many of the Azores’ dishes, crops and traditions, cozido das furnas echoes something imported centuries ago — in this case, the stove-boiled cozido à portuguesa of the mainland, still served in rural areas today — and given a local twist that harnesses the islands’ raw, elemental landscape. As I eat, wondering if my waistband buttons will hold, I consider what it takes to put food on a plate in this remote part of the world. From harvesting limpets in brisk Atlantic tides and milking truculent, grass-reared cows to growing vines and coffee amid salt-laced sea gales, in the Azores, necessity and ingenuity have always been the secret ingredients.

“FRESH FROM THE KITCHEN, SHE SETS BEFORE ME A SPECTACULAR PLATTER — PLUMP BLOOD SAUSAGES, TENDER CHICKEN LEGS, A JUICY HUNK OF BRAISING STEAK AND A GENEROUS PORK SHANK NESTED ATOP SWEET POTATOES.”

Left: A feast of cozido das furnas stew served at Restaurante Banhos Ferreos

essentials

GETTING THERE & AROUND

British Airways operates direct summer flights between Heathrow and São Miguel, the Azores’ largest island.

Average flight time: 4h15m.

TAP Air Portugal has year-round connections to São Miguel and Terceira (and seasonal routes to six other islands) via Lisbon or Porto from Gatwick, Heathrow and Manchester. ba.com flytap.com

The nine-island archipelago stretches across 370 miles of the Atlantic; 30-50-minute SATA flights connect São Miguel, Pico and São Jorge, as does Atlanticoline ferries. A hire car is essential on each island. sata.pt atlanticoline.pt ilhaverde.com

WHEN TO GO

Summer brings highs of 21-25C and little rain, perfect for hiking. April and May are best for whale-watching, when blue and fin whales migrate through alongside resident sperm whales. Winter is mild (13-16C) but wetter and windier. Locals will tell you the islands can deliver four seasons in a day, so pack layers and waterproofs.

WHERE TO STAY

Cabanas da Viscondessa, São Jorge, from €220 (£190), cabin only. cabanasdaviscondessa.com Azores Wine Company, Pico, from €250 (£216), B&B. antoniomacanita.com Quinta da Mar, São Miguel, from €130 (£112), B&B. quintadomar-caloura.com

MORE INFO

visitazores.com

HOW TO DO IT

Pura Aventura offers the 15-day Azores Island Hopping: Whales, Wine & Volcanic Wonders tour from £3,950 per person, including 14 nights’ B&B accommodation, car hire, ferry tickets, internal flights, two tasting menu dinners, guided activities and GPS-led self-guided walks. Excludes international flights. pura-aventura.com

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EXPERIENCE

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WITH PERFECTA TRAVEL

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Starting from Split, explore the Adriatic's island treasures, historic coastal towns and the unspoilt landscapes of the Dalmatian hinterland.

From island-hopping adventures and scenic cycling routes to immersive culinary experiences, our carefully crafted itineraries reveal the region's rich heritage, natural beauty and vibrant culture. Combining personalised service, local expertise and seamless organisation, we create meaningful travel experiences infused with comfort, authenticity and understated luxury.

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MADE

IN

The Rwandan capital is stepping into the spotlight, with dynamic arts, food and fashion scenes giving travellers a host of reasons to linger a few days

KIGALI

WORDS: ZOEY GOTO PHOTOGRAPHY: JACQUES NKINZINGABO

IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK (LEFT)

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Kigali.

ART

A gorilla looms above me, mouth frozen in a perpetual roar. Its fanged teeth catch the midday sun, and hands that look powerful enough to scoop up a person, King Kong style, hang at its sides. It’s my first morning in Rwanda and my first gorilla sighting — although all is not quite as it seems.

Each year, around 35,000 travellers venture into the misty mountains of Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park to see the real deal, but I’m standing in the country’s capital, Kigali. The giant towering over me isn’t flesh and fur but a clanking metal sculpture fashioned from discarded motorcycle parts and rusted chains. And rather than the damp, earthy scent of the jungle a three-hour drive to the north, I’m met with the aroma of freshly roasted coffee drifting from a nearby cafe.

Wearing jeans and a baseball cap, the installation’s creator, Aimable Kigenza, stands smiling at the entrance to the Niyo Arts Center. The gallery’s outer walls and driveway erupt in swirling murals of bright, joyful colour. It’s an ever-shifting canvas, repainted after the biannual rainy seasons, when the downpour leaves the city spotless once more.

Until recently, most travellers to Rwanda would quickly pass through Kigali, not just to the nothern jungles to see mountain gorillas, but also east, to Akagera National Park for a Big Five safari. Yet, the blossoming of an energetic arts scene is persuading visitors to press pause and take the creative pulse of Kigali before heeding the call of the wild.

Home to around 1.7 million people, the capital sits in a verdant basin, its skyline framed by rolling hills and jacaranda trees that wash the city in a soft violet haze from September to November.

There’s a symbiotic relationship between rising tourism and the emergence of contemporary art and design in Rwanda, Aimable explains. “As the country develops, tourism and hospitality are giving new

opportunities for artists to make a living from selling their work,” he says.

Since opening in 2014, Niyo Arts Center, where Aimable works and exhibits, has become a linchpin of this scene. The gallery also operates as a collective for more than 30 East African makers, complete with studio spaces. Its walls are lined with canvases depicting, among other things, a dazzle of abstract zebras, market squares packed with people, and children cocooned in fabric wraps on their mothers’ backs. A percentage of the centre’s profits helps support disadvantaged children, single mothers and survivors of the 1994 Rwandan genocide.

Aimable was six years old during the genocide, in which as many as one million people are thought to have been killed over 100 days. Having lost family members and lived through the aftermath, his hope is that his silverback promotes a message of healing and redemption. “When I made it, I was thinking about Rwanda since the genocide,” he says. “Afterwards, there was nothing — no money, no means, just these scraps of metal from the things that had been used to kill us, left in the street. But from the ashes, this country has managed to rise up. There’s hope here now.”

Leaving Aimable and his symbolic sculpture, I travel a couple of miles south east across the city. Rush-hour traffic is limbering up and the streets hum with motorbike taxis. The ubiquitous bikes are the lifeblood of Kigali, used by everyone from school students riding pillion while scrolling on their phones to suited commuters clutching briefcases.

Waiting to greet me in the shaded courtyard of the Inema Arts Center is its co-founder, artist Innocent Nkurunziza. He’s wearing scholarly, round glasses, his long dreadlocked hair tied up in a loose topknot. Innocent guides me around the two-storey gallery, which opened 13 years ago in a former ambassador’s residence. Today, it showcases the work of 10 local artists,

Clockwise from top: The entrance to Niyo Arts Center; Niyo serves as a collective of more than 30 East African makers; the co-founder of Inema Art Center, artist Innocent Nkurunziza Previous pages, from left: View over the rooftops of Kigali; basketware at the Nyamirambo Women's Center

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Kigali.

including Innocent's, and is also home to a collection of rare Congolese masks, some dating back to the 13th century.

Like Aimable, Innocent has witnessed seismic shifts in Kigali's cultural sphere since becoming an artist. "When I was starting out, there weren't really stores here to buy art supplies, so I'd travel 10 hours by bus to Uganda just for paints," he recalls. This necessity fostered a make-do attitude that still influences his work, prompting him to experiment with the abundant natural materials around him, like mud, clay and tree bark. Innocent unfurls his latest work: an 18-metre-long strip of brown bark, painted with a bubbling, vascular river, stretching the length of the gallery floor like a ceremonial carpet.

"We still don't have a dedicated art school in Rwanda," Innocent says. "But in a way that makes the work here rawer." We take one last stroll through the gallery, where canvases painted by Innocent, some layering maps and vintage photos, capture the energy, resilience and creativity of Rwanda's new generation of artists. "There's a freedom of expression you can see in every piece here," he reflects.

FOOD

My next stop, Choose Kigali, neatly merges the city's burgeoning arts and food scenes. The upscale restaurant and art gallery perches on top of a hill in the smart Kiyovu neighbourhood. Viewed from the mansion's wraparound balcony, Kigali spreads out like a patchwork quilt of labyrinthine streets, terracotta-coloured roofs and endless forested hills. The occasional construction crane and half-finished office block hint at a city in the midst of a building boom. But up here, all is serene. In gardens punctuated by large-scale art installations, the air is filled with the chirps of African paradise flycatchers.

Inside the grand old house, a maze of modern gallery spaces unfolds. Contemporary oil

paintings line the walls and a sculpted elephant looms around one corner. Visitors may arrive for Choose Kigali's rotating exhibitions, but it's the creativity at the heart of the centre's restaurant that keeps them here.

Pulling up a chair beside me in the garden, British-Filipino executive chef Mark Lawton tells me he fell in love with the landscape and fresh ingredients it produces when he arrived 18 months ago, after two decades working around the world. Having honed his skills in prestigious kitchens, including those at The Ritz and Claridge's, Mark was keen to pair his classical European training with the hyper-local bounty sprouting on his doorstep.

To illustrate the point, he slides a plate of sashimi across the table, served with a medley of pineapple, mango and passion fruit grown on surrounding hillsides. The fish had been plucked that morning from the waters of Lake Kivu, straddling the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

"Traditional Rwandan food is hearty and made for sharing, family style. It leans on paprika, plantain, vegetables and meats like chicken, goat and beef," Mark explains as my next course arrives. The Kigali-reared longhorn beef is served three ways: a tender fillet, rich braised cheeks and slow-cooked ribs, accompanied by mashed potato blended with Rwandan plantain, giving it a silky texture.

Choose Kigali's popularity with locals and international visitors alike reflects a culinary awakening that's taken hold across the city. In recent years, the capital has also welcomed Kōzo, an Afro-Asian restaurant serving delicacies such as spring rolls infused with Rwandan Akabanga chilli oil; Nyurah, a high-end dining room combining African ingredients with French cooking techniques; and Ruā, offering inventive African small plates, served tapas style.

As we gaze at the surrounding hills, it's hard to disagree when Mark says, "It feels like Kigali's food scene is really having a moment."

Clockwise from top left: Mark Lawton, executive chef at Choose Kigali; motorbike taxis are a popular way to get around; Kigali-reared longhorn beef served at Choose Kigali; a view of the city from Mount Kigali, west of the centre

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Kigali.

FASHION

Following winding hillside roads through the quiet neighbourhood of Nyarutarama, past grand embassy homes and manicured lawns, I arrive at House of Tayo, a hip atelier and men's fashion boutique. Here, for my grand finale, I'm meeting a designer carrying Rwanda's creative message to the global stage.

Inside, earth-toned walls and a bamboo-clad ceiling frame neat racks of sharply tailored jackets and boldly patterned shirts. It's the vision of Matthew Rugamba, a designer of Rwandan heritage whose creative journey began thousands of miles away.

"I went to university in the US and when I told other students I was from Rwanda, they'd say, 'I'm sorry,'" he recalls with a wry smile. "I didn't understand that; I was proud of where I came from. But I also came to realise that art and design could be powerful tools for changing these perceptions."

Matthew's garments combine sleek modern tailoring with Rwandan motifs such as geometric weaves, draped contours and luminous flashes of kitenge (a traditional African fabric that bursts with colour and pattern). In the UK, Arsenal footballers have been photographed wearing his outfits and his pieces have also shimmered under the flashbulbs at the Hollywood premiere of Black Panther in 2018. Matthew also has a loyal following here in Kigali, he tells me. Indeed, his creations can be glimpsed across the city every Friday when office workers swap their suits for bright, locally made shirts — part of a growing movement to champion homegrown design.

"The concept of 'made in Rwanda' carries more weight these days," Matthew says, smoothing a patterned lapel between his fingers. "That's always been my dream, for people all over the world to be proud to wear clothing made here."

As I step out of his boutique, late-afternoon light pools gold across the quiet street. Palm trees cast their long shadows over the tarmac as the sun skims low over Kigali's hills. This is a city in the midst of reclaiming its story — and it's artisans like Matthew who are showing that creativity could soon be joining the primates as one of Rwanda's most compelling draws.

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Kigali.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Where to stay

JUDITH HOME FIKA CAFE

The white interiors of the four comfortable en suite rooms here are softened by locally crafted textiles and woven baskets. Net canopies drape over the double beds and a wholesome breakfast is served at the attached cafe. From $75 (£56), B&B. @fikacaferw

HEAVEN BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Heaven's 30 rooms are decorated in soothing, earthy tones. There are saltwater pools, plus a yoga deck, an open-air gym and a shop selling local arts and crafts. From 159,200 RWF (£80), B&B. heavenrwanda.com

RETREAT KIGALI

Tucked away in tranquil Kiyovu, this boutique hideaway surrounds a turquoise pool fringed with banana and frangipani trees. King rooms feature teak furnishings, soaring ceilings and patios with tropical plants, while the villas have secluded plunge pools and indoor/outdoor showers. From $540 (£403), B&B. hemingways-collection.com

Where to eat

QUESTION COFFEE

Rwanda's misty hills and volcanic soil make it ideal coffee country. Question Coffee sources its beans from female farmers and roasts them on site, serving the results with cinnamon-dusted pastries. Visitors can join masterclasses to pick coffee cherries on the grounds and follow their journey from seed to cup. questioncoffee.com

FIKA CAFE

This laid-back courtyard cafe serves a traditional Rwandan buffet lunch. Expect boilo (slow-cooked beef and chicken stew) alongside posho (a dense cornmeal porridge), plus spicy peanut sauce and tender cooked cassava leaves. @fikacaferw

REPUB LOUNGE

This happening spot has live music and sweeping city views. Start with crispy fried sambaza (a tiny, sardine-like fish) before moving on to some of Kigali's best brochettes (grilled skewers of meat, seafood or vegetables). republounge.com

What to do

KIGALI GENOCIDE MEMORIAL

The Kigali Genocide Memorial is both a museum charting the events of 1994 and a mass burial site for more than 250,000 victims. Its tranquil gardens and exhibitions offer a solemn space for reflection. kgm.rw

NYAMIRAMBO WOMEN'S CENTER

Enabling female creatives to earn a sustainable income, this centre offers workshops where visitors can try their hand at sisal weaving, jewellery making and sewing. There's also a gift shop. nwc-umutima.org

KIMIRONKO MARKET

Kigali's largest bazaar offers a snapshot of daily life, alive with a constant throng of people and stalls selling everything from bananas and spices to jewellery and carved wooden masks. kimironkomarket.rw

Left: Nyamirambo Women's Center offers support to local females

essentials

GETTING THERE & AROUND

RwandAir has multiple direct weekly flights from Heathrow to Kigali. rwandair.com

Average flight time: 8h30m.

Kigali is easy to navigate, with well-maintained roads and plenty of transport options. Most visitors rely on ride-hailing apps like Yego or Move for car and motorcycle taxi journeys. The city has a decent bus network that uses the prepaid Tap&Go card, which can be bought and topped up at stations. For trips beyond the city, private drivers and hotel cars are a popular choice. rideyego.com move.rw acgroup.rw

WHEN TO VISIT

Kigali enjoys a mild, tropical highland climate, rarely becoming excessively hot or cold. The best weather occurs during the dry seasons, from June to September and December to February, with temperatures ranging from 16C to 28C. The long rains (March-May) and short rains (October-November) bring downpours that can occasionally disrupt plans.

MORE INFO

visitrwanda.com

HOW TO DO IT

A six-night tailor-made stay in Rwanda with Audley Travel costs from £4,750 per person and includes three nights at Heaven Boutique Hotel in Kigali and three nights at the Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel in Musanze, for gorilla tracking. Includes international flights with RwandAir, private transfers, accommodation, excursions and gorilla-tracking permits. audleytravel.com

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Nestled in the heart of Valpantena, just a short drive from the timeless city of Verona

La Collina dei Ciliegi invites travellers to experience this extraordinary corner of Italy through every sense. Surrounded by rolling vineyards and unspoilt countryside, the Wine Resort brings together award-winning wines, immersive experiences and refined cuisine, each revealing the authentic soul of a landscape shaped by nature, tradition and craftsmanship. Here, breathtaking views unfold at every turn, unforgettable flavours linger long after the last sip and time slows to the gentle rhythm of the vines and the seasons. At La Collina dei Ciliegi, every glass is more than a tasting—it is a journey into the heart of Italy.

lacollinadeiciliegi.it

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Lake Titicaca

The islands of Amantaní and Taquile on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca are rich in tradition and renowned for their textile heritage, which can be experienced during a homestay. Visitors might be left breathless by the landscape, too – at an altitude of 3,812 metres, Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNAPURNA MELLOR

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The island of Amantaní is home to around 4,000 people, divided among 10 communities, including several textile producers. The Ruta de Circunvalación trail circles the island, with stone arches marking the entrance to each village. Shaped by centuries of terraced farming, the landscape is dotted with native flora, including the vibrant cantuta, Peru’s national flower. Its vibrant red blooms adorn the blouse of Pilar Rosmery Yucra Quispe, a weaver from the island’s Pueblo community. As well as producing traditional textiles, she runs a homestay, Tikawasi, with her husband, Jose Luis.

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Peru.

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Peru.

Textile traditions are safeguarded by Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage status on the neighbouring island of Taquile. Its inhabitants spin wool and knit in their homes before bringing their goods to the central cooperative in the main square to be sold. The square is the heart of community life, hosting festivals and weddings, as well as daily dance performances for visitors. Farming is also organised cooperatively, with fields following a rotation of potatoes, corn and grains before a fallow period. The produce is cooked in traditional clay ovens and served with fish from Lake Titicaca or fried cheese from the nearby Puno region.

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Peru.

Mario and Juliana Huatta Yucra live in the heart of the island, where paths from their doorstep lead to sandy beaches and pre-Inca ruins and offer views of the snow-capped Bolivian Andes. Like all the men on the island, Mario learned how to knit a chullo pintay (an Andean hat with ear flaps) from a young age, under the guidance of his grandfather. A man's eligibility for marriage is traditionally tested by pouring water into the finished hat, and seeing how long it can hold without letting a single drop escape. □

annapurnamellorphotography.com @annapurnauna

ANNAPURINA MELLOR STAYED AT TIKAWASI HOMESTAY ON AMANTANI AND TAGULE HOJPEDALE MARIO MORE INFO: INSTAGRAM.COM/AMANTANI, TIKAWASIHOMESTAY INSTAGRAM.COM/MARIOHUATTA

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OGR

Powered by

Fondazione

CRT

OGR TORINO – ART AND TECHNOLOGY BEYOND BORDERS

In the heart of Turin, Fondazione CRT has transformed OGR Torino, a 35,000sq metre former 19th-century railway workshop, into one of Europe's most distinctive cultural and innovation landmarks: a dynamic hub for arts and technology. A year-round programme of experimentation brings together exhibitions,

concerts, performances and projects that foster research and entrepreneurship. A remarkable example of industrial heritage regeneration, OGR Torino reveals the city's evolving identity: here Turin's past and future coexist, offering travellers looking beyond the usual sights a fresh take on one of Italy's most fascinating destinations.

ogrtorino.it

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AND THE

Whether you dream of mixing techno in Germany or learning tango in Argentina, these trips bring you closer to the world's most iconic music scenes

WORDS: KAREN EDWARDS

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BEAT GOES ON

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Music trips.

Germany

Produce your own techno music in Berlin

Club culture and hedonism have been inextricably linked in the German capital since the heyday of Weimar cabaret in the 1920s and early 1930s. Classic tours may look at the city's turbulent past, taking in landmarks such as the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag parliament building and the Bernauer Strasse Berlin Wall Memorial, but the city's energetic nightlife remains key to its international persona: Tresor is one of the world's most famous techno nightclubs, while Berghain has become a symbol of modern sensualism.

In buzzing Kreuzberg, music producer Andy Sexton opens his studio to those seeking to get behind the decks themselves. During his masterclass, Sexton uses synthesisers, drum machines and production software to teach budding DJs how to record, arrange and mix a techno track. This behind-the-scenes look at how producers work is a rare insight into a way of life now instilled in Berliners.

The two-hour 'Produce Techno and House Music in Berlin' masterclass is £107 per person. getyourguide.com

Italy

Set sail on an opera cruise

The narrow lanes and cobbled piazzas of Verona set the scene for this themed trip celebrating a 400-year-old art form. The city is dotted with medieval and Renaissance-era architecture, but the highlight for opera-lovers will be the striking Arena di Verona. Built in 30 CE, making it older than Rome's Colosseum, the open-air amphitheatre is the place to catch a performance of Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata.

From Verona, you'll be transported to Venice, where you'll board the 20-passenger hotel barge La Bella Vita to sail out of the San Marco Basin and along the Giudecca Canal. The city is where Claudio Monteverdi's L'incoronazione di Poppea was first performed in 1643. The voyage comes to an end six days later in Mantua, but not before you've visited the grand, bell-shaped Teatro Bibiena theatre, where a 13-year-old Mozart performed in 1770. Kirker Holidays offers opera-themed Italy tours, including an eight-night trip with time aboard La Bella Vita, for £5,478 per person. kirkerholidays.com

Puerto Rico

Dip into San Juan's reggaetón culture

Reggaetón has been quietly nurtured in the Puerto Rican capital since its inception in the 1990s — and, thanks to internationally renowned artists like Bad Bunny, it's recently been taking the world by storm, too. Inspired by Jamaican dancehall, American hip-hop, Latin American bomba, plena and reggae, the genre as it's known today is representative of Puerto Rico's multicultural heritage — one that combines a 500-year Spanish history with African and Indigenous Taino influences.

Local guide Clement De Freitas leads private walking tours along San Juan's old town backstreets and beyond, showcasing where musicians such as Daddy Yankee, Myke Towers and Rauw Alejandro were raised.

Take in the rainbow-coloured shopfronts and houses that have been used as backdrops for music videos: Bad Bunny and J Balvin shot a part of Si Tu Novia Te Deja Sola against the Mural de Doña Fela.

De Freitas' CL Tours offers four-hour privately guided walks from $75 (£56) per person, based on two people booking. cltourspr.com

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IMAGES: JONATHAN STOKES, GETTY, SHUTTERSTOCK

From left: Musicians on the streets of San Juan, Puerto Rico; Verona hosts an annual opera festival from June to September; a flamenco band on the Plaza de España in Seville Previous pages from left: Seville is considered the home of Andalucian flamenco; Berlin has some of the world's most famous techno clubs, which regularly play host to international DJs

Northern Ireland

Take the Trad Music Trail through Belfast

If you're looking for ceol agus craic ('music and fun'), there's plenty to be had in the Cathedral Quarter. It's home to several of Belfast's cherished watering holes and neighbourhood bars, including some that faced difficult times during the Troubles, and each has its own story to tell.

The two-and-a-half-hour Belfast Traditional Music Trail takes in stops such as the Duke of York pub, which was bombed in 1972. The opulent Harp Bar, by contrast, mirrors a 1920s speakeasy with its ruby-red decor and live Irish blues. Along the way, guitarist, flautist, harpist and pipe player guides — many of whom have played at these venues themselves — share tales of community, movement and resilience that have shaped Belfasters. Look up and you'll see St Anne's Cathedral and its Spire of Hope glistening above the rooftops — a symbol of what this city stands for. Tours take place on Saturdays and cost £20 per person (£10 for under-15s; free for those under six). Booking required. belfasttradtrail.com

Spain

Learn the flamenco in Seville

It'll be the sweet citrus aroma from bitter orange trees and the unmistakable sound of clicking castanets that will remind you you've landed in Seville. The sound of flamenco is never far off here, in its home city. History suggests this style of music and dance largely evolved from the Roma communities of the Triana neighbourhood during the 1800s. At the time, flamenco was looked down on by the Spanish elites, but today it's celebrated as a quintessential part of Andalucian culture.

Tucked away among the mish-mash of baroque, Moorish and Renaissance architecture is the Museo del Baile Flamenco, an 18th-century palace exploring flamenco history. Displays of costumes and choreography reveal how the music has evolved over two centuries. Backstage in the studio, expert instructors offer flamenco classes that cover both the handclapping percussion and the foot, arm and finger movements symbolic of the genre. Sessions cost €90 (£75) for one person and €22 (£18) for each additional group member. museodelbaileflamenco.com

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Senegal

Join a kora workshop on the coast

Dubbed the ‘voice of the jail’ (a name given to musicians and storytellers of the Mande cultural groups of West Africa), the kora is a 21-string instrument played in select areas of Senegal, Guinea, Mali, Guinea Bissau and The Gambia. It’s helped generations of storytellers pass on oral histories and is shrouded in folklore, dating back more than 300 years. The kora is also increasingly recognised internationally, thanks to Grammy Award-winning artist Toumani Diabaté, who took its soft, melodic sound to a global stage.

On Senegal’s Atlantic coast, the fishing village of Kafountine welcomes travellers interested in learning this harp-lute. Run by a British family, The Kora Workshop holds week-long courses, with opportunities to explore the local beach and Kafountine’s busy markets, where stalls overflow with handicrafts. Packages include a private room, full board, kora tuition and a loan instrument. Prices start from €490 (£420) a week for those learning the kora and €140 (£120) for accompanying non-learners. thekoraworkshop.co.uk

USA

Follow the Blues Trail in Mississippi

As the birthplace of some the world’s greatest blues artists, including BB King, Muddy Waters and Robert Johnson, the US state of Mississippi has enticed music lovers for decades. Which is why, in 2006, the Mississippi Blues Commission opened the Blues Trail, a self-guided drive dedicated to 200-plus exhibits and places that are etched into the state’s cultural history. You’ll not only see sights such as the house where Elvis was born or the Alamo Theatre, which hosted Nat King Cole and Dorothy Moore, but the very backdrop that brought the blues to life. It was in the fields of places such as Tunica and Isola that enslaved people sang songs inspired by tribal music, and it was in towns like Glen Allan and Alligator that hymns emanated from churches. Both lay the foundations for Delta blues.

Across the state, family-run cafes serve hot tamales, fresh seafood and Mississippi mud pies — unmissable local staples. British Airways Holidays offers a two-week fly-drive, including flights to Memphis and car hire, but no accommodation, from £912 per person. visitmississippi.org ba.com/holidays

Argentina

Learn to tango the Buenos Aires way

Cultour’s Tango Tour takes you deep into the heart of tango culture, beginning in the art deco neighbourhood of Abasto, where legendary singer Carlos Gardel once lived. It’s on these streets that his most famous song, Por Una Cabeza, came to life.

Today, a string of traditional parrillas (steakhouses) and elegant cafes fill Buenos Aires’s main Avenida Corrientes, but Garde’s legacy remains in the form of murals plastering the station concourse leading to subway Line B.

In San Telmo, one of the city’s oldest barrios, the Casa Ezeiza mansion marks one of the spots where tango is said to have originated during the late 1800s. Wander along Calle Balcarce, famous for its baroque-style buildings and softly lit tanguerías (tango dance halls) or stop off at Plaza Dorrego, the vibrant central square, for pop-up performances. You might even have the chance to join a street tango session. The six-hour private Tango Tour is $240 (£180) for groups of up to three and includes entry to the Recoleta Cemetery, where Eva Perón, among others, is interred. cultuurbuenosaires.com

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IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY

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Music trips.

Clockwise from far left: Senegal is one of several West African countries where oral histories have been passed down using kora music; in the Buenos Aires district of San Telmo, professional tango dancers perform in plazas; Sonny Mack's band perform on Beale Street, a famous blues strip in Memphis

MUSIC TRAVEL BOOKS

TRIPPING THE WORLD FANTASTIC: A JOURNEY THROUGH THE MUSIC OF OUR PLANET BY GLENN DIXON

Travelling around the world in search of musical experiences that make his heart sing, author Glenn Dixon explores why music is an integral part of cultures old and new — and why it's so embedded in the way we live.

GRIOTS AND GRIOTTES BY THOMAS A HALE

A study of the jali (or, in French, griot) traditions that span West Africa, with reference to the kora and its influence in generational storytelling.

AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS BY NANCY DICKMANN

A visual reference to the wealth and variety of traditional instruments that have shaped music culture around the world.

THE LAND WHERE THE BLUES BEGAN BY ALAN LOMAX

In the 1930s and 1940s, folklorist Alan Lomax captured the stories of great blues artists such as Muddy Waters and Leadbelly through first-hand accounts.

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ROCK OF AGES

A new walk traverses the red miles of the Northern Territory desert, culminating at the foot of Australia's greatest landmark

PHOTOGRAPHY: PETER TARASIUK

Seen from 30 miles away, Uluru appears no more than a hiccup on the flat horizon: as small as a termite mound, with the redness of freshly fired clay. Our group treads towards it in the morning light. Sometimes its form is obscured by the desert oaks that surround it: at other times it's lost behind one of the long, sandy ridges that rise from the Outback. But it's ever-present as we head east — our point of reference, like the magnetic north of a compass.

Australia's most famous landmark is renowned internationally: familiar from brochures, posters and social media posts, endlessly photographed and filmed from tour buses and helicopter sightseeing flights by travellers who come to the Red Centre. And yet to make a long journey on foot and see its silhouette slowly emerge on the horizon — growing incrementally with every footstep — is a privilege few people have had in recent years. Although this is, of course, how the rock would've been seen in eons past.

I've come to hike the Uluru Kakararra Trail — a 34-mile walking route across the desert, culminating at the foot of the monolith, which launched this April. Around 10 years in the making, the trail has been developed in partnership with the Anangu, the traditional Aboriginal owners of this land. It traverses the often overlooked landscapes in Uluru's shadow, allowing visitors to camp out in the national park surrounding it for the first time. The group is limited to just 16 guests and the operation is subtle in character — the philosophy being to travel lightly. Uluru is a landmark so familiar that the world is half-numbed to its wonder. To approach it this way is to see it anew.

The starting point for our walk is the rock formation known as Kata Tjuta — translated as 'many heads' in the Pitjantjatjara language spoken by the Anangu; it's less famous than its neighbour Uluru, but far more intricate. Rather than being a single monolith, Kata Tjuta comprises a range of bulbous peaks, in between which are crevices brimming with life. Our first steps take us among grassy water holes and groves of river red gums. We clamber onward through canyons that echo with the song of wild budgerigars.

Ascending a windy pass, our guide, Marie-Charlotte Redot, peeks from beneath a broad-brimmed hat to explain the geology of Kata Tjuta and Uluru. The two landmarks, she tells us, were first formed 500 million years ago by sediment from a shallow sea and eventually tilted by tectonic forces, so their strata run almost vertically. Both rise abruptly from the plains — like interlopers from some other axis of existence — and both are sacred sites. Kata Tjuta is a place for men's ceremonies in Anangu culture. Marie-Charlotte explains that to the Anangu, the entire landscape is layered with meaning, its every landmark believed to have been formed by ancestor beings in a space beyond linear time, sometimes referred to elsewhere in Australia as 'the Dreaming'. But these stories — and the ceremonies related to them — are closely guarded by initiates. Outsiders can only hope to skim the surface.

"It's sometimes hard to accept there's a limit to what we can know," Marie-Charlotte says. "We're at the level of children in our understanding of this land."

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Australia.

Our camp for the night lies on a sandy ridge overlooking Kata Tjuta. A cluster of tents is pitched beside wooden boardwalks; hearty meals are served in a simple off-grid lodge furnished with bright Aboriginal art. After dinner, I peek under my pillow to find a huntsman spider — a dinner-plate-sized arachnid from a horror film prop cupboard. My Australian tentmate assures me, with Aussie nonchalance, that huntsman are the “teddy bears” of the spider community, that their bite is mild and they’re best kept inside the tent, where they’ll eat flies. Through moments like this, I gain a visceral acquaintance with the desert on the trail.

Taken as red

Three days of walking follow. We rise before dawn and strike out in the cool, torch beams swinging through the gloom, the sting of the previous day’s sunburn still on our shoulders. Kata Tjuta recedes behind us as Uluru looms closer — in between the two, the sweep of the Milky Way forms a celestial arch, soon vanishing from sight.

As the morning hours progress, Uluru changes colour. In darkness, the rock appears obsidian-black, framed against a deep blue sky. It then turns violet in the half light of dawn, before slanting morning rays awaken its fiery pigment. Throughout the day — even in the harsh light of noon — the rock seems to preserve the burning hue of that first instant of sunrise.

Our path winds onward through a tapestry of landscapes: among eucalypts, above which brown falcons circle watchfully; and through stretches of feathertop spinifex grass that sway like wheat fields in the breeze. Time passes — desert sand accumulates in our socks. What can appear a lifeless expanse from a speeding car turns out, at walking pace, to yield a rich mosaic of flora and fauna. We crest dunescapes onto which lizards and snakes impart swirling tracks. We picnic under the canopy of the desert oaks, whose branches sway like willows in the hot breeze.

Our group is among the first to walk the Uluru Kakararra Trail — a route only recently pioneered by guides, so little trodden that undergrowth occasionally swishes against our feet. Yet we’re following in the wake of an older tradition. Kata Tjuta and Uluru were both desert oases where, in ages past, travelling groups of Aboriginal people would’ve rested and found water before moving on to fresh hunting grounds.

By a campfire on our last night, we meet Tjiangu Thomas (TJ), an Aboriginal guide with a quick grin who walks into our camp, emerging out of the darkness of the desert. He explains the significance of ‘Country’ — an English word imported here in the late 18th century from a soggy island on the far side of the world that, in Aboriginal Australia, has swelled with new meaning, encompassing not just terrain but ancestry, culture and an intimate connection with the Earth. This Country is rich in lessons, in its creation stories, but also in the plants traditionally used for medicine or as bush tucker. However, TJ is worried some people are at risk of becoming estranged from the old ways. “A lot of Anangu haven’t been through this Country for hundreds of years,” he says. “People stopped walking, they

Clockwise from top left: Hiking towards Kata Tjuta; the new arrangement that allows overnight stays inside the national park has been years in the making; a flowering mulga tree; trekking guide Marie-Charlotte Redot; snake tracks etched into the red desert sand Previous pages from top: Sunrise over Uluru on the second morning of the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Signature Walk; walking towards Uluru through the feathertop spinifex on the Uluru Kakararra Trail

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Australia.

got Toyotas and rifles. But look after Country, and Country will look after you. When you spend time out here, you’ll learn to read Country.”

While some Anangu have lost meaningful connection with this land, travellers have come to experience it in their droves. Tour buses idle at Uluru’s base, sunset dining sites have been devised with the rock as a backdrop, light shows twinkle above it at dawn. Uluru has also been on a fault line in relations between Aboriginal Australians and the government. The Aboriginal village of Mutitjulu — set just beneath the rock — was an early flashpoint in the controversial Northern Territory Intervention of 2007: a child welfare policy that sparked accusations of racism on the part of authorities. A decade later, the ‘Uluru Statement from the Heart’ called for an official voice for First Nations communities in government — a proposal rejected in a 2023 nationwide referendum.

Uluru can be a wellspring of strength, but Aboriginal communities continue to face many challenges. TJ is convinced that initiatives like our walk can help to preserve a culture often said to be the most ancient on Earth, braced against the headwinds of 21st-century Western society. “Some Anangu have become lost,” he says. “We need to show them there’s a cultural path that’s still there.”

The last stage of our trail is one of the most beautiful. We enter mulga woodlands with rough-barked trees that offer slivers of shade. Their canopy thins on the final miles, revealing the red crags of Uluru above us, about which tiny zebra finches dart. At the foot of Uluru, TJ rejoins us to tell stories about the beings the Anangu believe created the landscape outside of linear time. We’re politely requested not to repeat them; these stories are only meant to be encountered in this environment.

Walking the Uluru Kakararra Trail is no hardship, but arriving at Uluru it’s still possible to imagine the relief nomads must once have felt entering its sanctuary. Stepping among the shadows of its canyon feels like a homecoming after the wide-open desert horizons. The trickling sounds from its water holes seem like music after the single, lonely note of the Outback wind. Before I leave, I take a long look at the ‘scar’ — the crease left by the footfall of travellers who for decades climbed Uluru. The ascent route finally closed in 2019, when the sanctity of the rock was recognised by the Australian government. The ‘scar’ is a painful moniker, used among Aboriginals to come to terms with the desecration. The hope now is that visitors leave no mark on Uluru. Rather, the rock monolith will leave its mark on them.

HOW TO DO IT: The Australian Walking Company is the exclusive operator for the Uluru Kakararra Trail — it’s not possible to hike the route independently. Its five-day itinerary, the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Signature Walk, costs from $5,395 (£2,843) per person and runs between the two rocks, with stays, meals and downtime at eco-camps in between, and the final two nights at a bush lodge with a panoramic view of Uluru. Departures take place from April to September. Ayers Rock Airport serves Uluru; Jetstar flies there from Melbourne and Sydney, while Qantas reaches it from the latter. auswalkingco.com.au

Clockwise from top left: Tjiangu Thomas (TJ), a local Anangu guide; artist Charmaine Kulitja creating a dot painting at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre; the view from bed at the lodge on night three along the walking trail

Understanding Aboriginal Australia

WATCH Kanyini is a 2006 documentary profiling Bob Randall — an elder from the village of Mutitjulu, set in the shadow of Uluru. The hour-long film sees Randall touch on traditional Anangu philosophy and wisdom, while also lamenting the struggles his people have faced nationwide, from colonisation to contemporary social inequality. Other classic films about Aboriginal Australia include Samson and Delilah (2009) and Rabbit-Proof Fence (2002).

READ Bruce Pascoe’s 2014 book Dark Emu: Black Seeds: Agriculture or Accident? explores the theory that Aboriginal society was highly complex and technologically advanced at the time of European contact — practising agriculture and pioneering permanent settlements — and that the evidence supporting this continues to be downplayed by the establishment. The controversial book steered a national conversation at the time of its publication.

LISTEN For an introduction to Aboriginal music, try the Docker River Band — a desert reggae band from the Aboriginal settlement of Kaltukatjara, to the west of Uluru. Its vocalists sing in both their native Pitjantjatjara language and English, underpinned by Caribbean rhythms. Separately, be aware that while didgeridoo artists often take inspiration from Uluru in their works, the instrument actually hails from an area as much as 1,000 miles to the north of the monolith.

GO The Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre, close to Uluru’s Mutitjulu water hole, is an essential stop for understanding Anangu culture and history, as well as learning about the flora and fauna of the area. Here, you’ll find a small cafe and galleries hosting works by Aboriginal artists. uluru.gov.au

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long weekend

Tetouan & Tamuda Bay

With a Unesco-listed medina, Mediterranean beach culture and new direct flights, this slice of northern Morocco could become the country’s next big getaway destination

WORDS LORNA PARKES

It was the Amazigh — the Indigenous mountain people of Morocco — who originally named Tetouan as Titawin, meaning ‘the eyes’. It’s not a bad epithet for a fortified city that has stood watch over the country’s Mediterranean coast for centuries. First it was a base for pirates to attack the ships of its neighbour Spain, then, in a twist of fate, it served as capital of Morocco’s Spanish protectorate between 1913 and 1956.

Despite its layered history, this whitewashed city of artisan crafts and Moorish art deco has historically seen just a trickle of the travellers who head north to nearby Tangier or the blue city of Chefchaouen. Tetouan airport’s expansion and the launch of the first direct flights from London this spring could change that. And development of nearby Tamuda Bay, including the opening of King Mohammed VI’s Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay beach resort in 2024, means Tetouan is emerging as an accessible beach-plus-city-break destination.

The Mediterranean coast offers Morocco’s best beaches and swimming. And behind Tamuda Bay rise the Rif Mountains, a wall of granite that could easily be mistaken for the Dolomites, with quiet hiking trails.

DAY ONE: THE WHITE CITY

Morning

The markets of Tetouan’s medina are in full swing each morning, so dive straight in to the Unesco-listed core of coiled alleyways and souks for a sensorial introduction to the city. The medina was constructed by Muslim and Jewish refugees who fled Spain at the end of the 15th century and remains mostly unaffected by tourism — alongside stalls

piled with vegetables, you’ll find wood-stoked community ovens, a small open-air tannery and shops selling twig-thin pipes for kif (a local mix of tobacco and marijuana) from the Rif Mountains. After watching artisans at work, make your next stop Tetouan Museum of Modern Art. Located in the Ensanche — the district built around the medina in the Spanish era — the castle-like landmark started life in 1918 as a railway station.

Afternoon

Join the flood of locals at family-run Patisserie Rahmouni and pick up honey-soaked Moroccan sweets such as chebakia and briouats. Eat on the go while strolling the Ensanche, aiming for palm-framed Hassan II Square. Fronting the Royal Palace, it has four minaret-like fountains that splash into life when the king is in residence. The buildings around the edges are typical of Tetouan: bone-white, accented with green — a colour significant to Islam but also representing the greenery of the Rif. A gate to the side of the square leads back into the medina, where a hillside of whitewashed houses shine like pearly teeth in the sun. Ascend to the rooftop of riad restaurant El Reducto for a bird’s-eye view, then settle on cushions for a feast of sardines, spiced with paprika and turmeric.

Evening

After dinner, take a taxi to Tamuda Bay, 30 minutes north, for a beach stroll. Or indulge in a nighttime swim in the pool at Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay’s Medi-Spa, where a galaxy of underwater ‘stars’ reflects a giant moon-like orb hanging from the ceiling. elreducto.com royalmansour.com

Clockwise from top: Tetouan's whitewashed medina is typical of Morocco's Med-influenced north; the decorated doorway of Sufi scholar Sidi Haj Ali Baraka's mausoleum in Tetouan; Spanish-influenced lobster paella at Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay

IMAGES: GETTY, ALAMY, ROYAL MANSOUR COLLECTION

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DAY TWO: COAST & CLIMBING

Morning

Simple pleasures are what Tamuda Bay serves up best. A low-key alternative to Agadir or Essaouira, this quietly developing beach resort offers the opportunity to see the Moroccan seaside without all the tourist trappings. An abundance of shells wash up onto the sandy shoreline — mornings are perfect for lazy beach-combing sessions. Kayaking and standup paddleboarding are also popular in summer, as is swimming, thanks to the Mediterranean climate bringing calmer waters than the blustery Atlantic coast to the west.

Afternoon

Dry off for half a day of hiking in the Rif Mountains, a range of jagged peaks that stretches across the northern flank of Morocco from Ceuta to Melilla. Donkeys carrying jellaba-clad villagers and shepherds with their flocks are more common than hikers on the trails that furrow inland. The area of Fahs Lamhar — which translates from Arabic as 'land of foals' — offers one of the most accessible and spectacular trails from Tamuda Bay. On a good day, the horses for which

the area is named can be seen grazing in the highland gorse below sheer granite cliffs that flow down to lowland pastures bordering the sea. In a couple of hours it's possible to do a four- to five-and-a-half-mile loop of the valley, which feels properly wild; hire a hiking guide in Tetouan who can pick up the minimally marked trails.

Evening

As dusk approaches, return to Tetouan to stroll the Ensanche again. On Plaza Primo, pause to take in the mustard-coloured, gothic-revival Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de las Victorias — one of the most impressive surviving Catholic monuments in northern Morocco. Beyond it lies Avenue Mohamed V, home to some of the district's most ornate examples of art deco and art nouveau design. This includes Edificio La Unión y El Fénix — a grand Spanish building topped with a giant green-winged goddess. Spanish influences can also be found on the menu of Le Méditerranée restaurant, back at Tamuda Bay — a fine place to toast the weekend, with sea views, a long list of paellas and Mediterranean seafood. royalmansour.com

Farm to fort

Tetouan's walled medina has seven gates — each one named after a different variety of tree, in homage to the orchards and gardens that were cultivated outside the medina before the land was cleared to expand the city. Bab Tut, for example, translates as 'Mulberry Gate'.

From left: At Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay's Le Méditerranée restaurant, the decor mixes Moroccan woodwork with a Mediterranean palette; Tetouan's Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de las Victorias; a statue of Ibn Battuta inside Tangier's Kasbah Museum; the entrance to storied Cafe Baba in Tangier's medina

IMAGES: ROYAL MANSOUR COLLECTION, ALAMY; LORINA PARKES

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TOP FIVE: WAYS TO TRACE MOROCCAN HISTORY IN THE NORTH

Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, Tangier

One of the world's most important medieval explorers, Ibn Battuta was born in Tangier in 1304. To learn about the impact his life and travels had on Morocco, head to the Kasbah Museum. It's housed in an 18th-century fort overlooking the sea, just over an hour's drive from Tetouan, and covers the importance of Battuta's explorations, from China to India and Mecca. It also delves into the Marinid dynasty under which Battuta lived.

Cap Spartel

Marking the western entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar, this windswept headland is etched with coastal walking paths. It's where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet — an oceanic crossroads and centuries-long battleground, including during both the American War of Independence in 1782 and the Spanish Civil War in 1936. There's a 19th-century lighthouse — Morocco's oldest — housing a maritime museum and a restaurant. lecapspartel.com

Ceuta

Spain still retains control over this tiny enclave on Morocco's northeastern tip. Arabic records say the city was a staging ground for the Muslim invasion of Iberia in the eighth

century. It was then claimed by Spain in the 17th century and still has a majority Spanish-speaking population. Alongside Arab baths and spice souks, the city has 10th-century fortifications and the Parque Marítimo del Mediterráneo — a 56,000sq metre swathe of greenery designed by avant-garde Canarian artist César Manrique.

Cafe Baba

Mick Jagger and Keith Richards are among the musicians and actors who dropped into this Tangier institution for a puff of kif from the 1950s to the 1970s — a time when the city attracted a freewheeling international crowd. Their faded photos still dot the walls of this frayed tea shop. Join locals to socialise over sweet mint tea and board games, looking out the horseshoe windows onto Tangier's medina.

Royal Artisan School, Tetouan

This unique school for national crafts was established in 1919 to preserve the ancient artisan techniques associated with the joint Arab and Andalusian heritage of Spain and Morocco. Students are tutored in everything from wood painting to plaster carving and zellige tiling. Visit on weekdays to watch the artisans at work; alternatively, Green Olive Arts offers guided tours. greenolivearts.com

The UK's first direct flights to Tetouan launched in March, running twice weekly from Gatwick with Royal Air Maroc. Or it's under an hour-and-a-half transfer from Tangier Ibn Battuta Airport, which has flights from Manchester and London with Ryanair. royalairmaroc.com ryanair.com

Stay by the beach at Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay, which offers boating, kayaking, paddleboarding, hiking and guided tours of Tetouan. From 7,000 MAD (£565) for two people in a deluxe suite, B&B. royalmansour.com

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on the menu

Cider

SOMERSET

In the West Country, a region synonymous with cider, farmhouse production continues largely as it has done for centuries — with some juicy new innovations

WORDS SARAH BARRELL PHOTOGRAPHY EMLI BENDIXEN

"It was buried here in the barn, found under a load of rubble." I'm standing at a 150-year-old apple press with farm owner Sophie Brendel — tall, linen-clad, with a basket of garden veggies on her arm — as she shows me the now-renovated oak structure, which resembles a loom or punitive medieval device. "Come late November, locals and friends help with the pressing," she says. "We share cider, cook food. Exactly as it was for so many generations of farmers here."

I'm at Thornfalcon Winery & Press, a cluster of lavender-fringed stone farmhouses whose orchards and vineyards are shielded by the encircling mounds of the Quantock, Blackdown and Mendip hills. Here in Somerset, the spiritual heartland of English cider, production is thought to date back to pre-Roman times. The county consumes and produces some of the UK's highest quantities of the ancient beverage. It's home to heritage apple trees and household names like Thatchers, Perry's and Sheppy's — and, in recent years, has seen a boom in new artisan producers like Thornfalcon.

"I didn't want to just muddle through lockdown and go back to what I was doing before," says Panu Long. Sophie's equally tall, farm-tanned husband, who spent decades in the London drinks industry, heading up bars like the Met. So, the couple started making plans for an orchard and vineyard, moving here in 2022. Cider production started a year later.

Panu offers me a taste of Thornfalcon's dry, naturally sparkling cider. It's savoury, yet apple-rich — almost like a champagne or pét nat (naturally effervescent wine). "Like wine, cider flavour varies each year," he says. "Last year was hot, producing lots of sweet apples."

Thornfalcon also makes a hay-coloured juice — tangy, candied-apple sweet — that takes

me back to childhood summers. But most of its apples are blended and then fermented for cider, a year-long process finished in the bottle for natural carbonation and rounded flavours. Their sweet cider is Panu's pride: a honeyed golden-amber marvel made by 'keeving', a complex process involving temperature control and siphoning that starves the yeast, leaving sugars behind. "It's a lot trickier than anything we do with our wine," Panu says of the method that sprung up in the 1600s across northern France and southwestern England.

In the orchards, we find Kingston Blacks, Stembridge Clusters and Porter's Perfection. "Old, noble varieties that produce fantastic cider apples," Sophie says. Nature leads at this tranquil 40-acre farm, where little but the sound of skylarks fills the air. The lake has a woodfired sauna and family of swans, and the rewilded fields are home to three immaculately appointed huts for overnight stays overlooking orchards and vineyards. "We get our first grape harvest this autumn," she says. "From vines planted three years ago." The estate already produces rosé and a biscuity sparkling from local grapes. "By September, we'll do tastings and supper clubs here," Sophie adds, beaming, as we pass a beautifully buttressed 16th-century barn, mid-conversion. "A sort of magic happens when you take what this wonderful land produces and bring a creative process to it."

Scrumpy star

Weaving 45 minutes north leads me to the hilltop hamlet of Mudgley. It's 10.30am on a Sunday and the corrugated roof of Wilkins Cider Farm is already snap-crackling in the sun. Roger Wilkins is shouldering sacks of spuds onto trestle tables sagging under hefty jars of pickled eggs and bricks of extra-mature cheddar.

IMAGES: THE NEWT (TOP RIGHT); JAKE EASTHAM (BOTTOM LEFT)

Clockwise from top left: Free-roaming sheep at Burrow Hill Cider Farm; some of the distillery team at The Newt in Somerset; patrons enjoying a pint and some live music at Cider Bus Saturday at Burrow Hill Cider Farm; a crate of cider apples at The Newt in Somerset

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TIMELINE

MIDDLE AGES

English cider is thought to pre-date Roman settlers and Norman invaders, but it's refined and popularised by medieval monks in places like Glastonbury Abbey.

1600S

The 'golden age', when horticulturalist John Evelyn praises Somerset cider as 'generous, strong, sufficiently heady'.

1800S

The 1830 Beerhouse Act allows farms to operate as small cider houses; industrialisation expands production. The 1887 Truck Act bans the custom of paying wages in alcohol.

1900S

Mass production expands. Now-famous brands are launched, including Thatchers, founded at Myrtle Farm in Sandford in 1904.

1980S

A craft cider revival is led by the likes of Somerset Cider Brandy Company in Burrow Hill, which secured the UK's first licensed cider brandy distillery in 1989.

Clockwise from above: The Cider Bus during its regular Saturday service at Burrow Hill; the view from Burrow Hill; Roger Wilkins at Wilkins Cider Farm; the farmhouse at Thornfalcon; crudités of farm vegetables at Osip in Bruton

"All local. You won't get those in the supermarket," says the wiry 78-year-old. Old pub tables spill into the yard; smart couples sip cider in the sunshine; locals sink pints, fortified by robust packed lunches of roast chicken.

Roger is the definition of ruddy, the flush from his apple-red cheeks extending to his slicked grey hair. He welcomes guests seven days a week — thirsty work that requires some 16 pints of his scrumpy-style farmhouse cider a day, he tells me. "I haven't had a hangover or took aspirin since I were 20," he says. Roger's grandfather founded the farm in 1917. Its stone barns rake down an orchard-fringed slope, unchanged for five generations — much like the cider.

"We don't add nothing,"

Roger stresses. "Not like factory-made stuff: 65% water and six teaspoons of sugar. I call it Lucozade." A 100-tonne wooden press resembling medieval gallows towers to the roof. Each autumn, a blend of cider apples — the likes of Kingston Blacks and Brown Snout, grown here in orchards for centuries — are crushed and pressed, the juice transferred to wood barrels to ferment naturally. "I don't test. I do everything by smell and taste," he says. "And I leave it a minimum six months, up to nine. All factory ciders add fast-acting yeast, so it's

ready in a week. But you can't get body and flavour in days."

A trio of hulking 118-gallon barrels offer 'dry' or 'sweet', straight from a tap. Dry — the most popular — has a classic scrumpy, farmyard nose, landing an astringent tang on the tongue; the other is bittersweet with a funky apple finish. Both are hazy, amber and refreshingly cool. "If you want medium, it's 'arf-an-arf'," says

I haven't had a hangover or took aspirin since I were 20

Roger, swilling half dry, half sweet into a jam jar. This, I conclude, is my preference, though I stop short of buying a 10-litre jerry can.

It's rustic stuff, but Wilkins Cider Farm — a stone's throw from Glastonbury — attracts a starry crowd, from Johnny Rotten to Mick Jagger. "Lily Allen used to come in with her dad," he says. "She rang

me wanting 40 gallons for her wedding." We're overlooked by a mural of Roger, attributed to Banksy, who's said to own a pub in nearby Pilton. "But this is my favourite," says Roger, showing a press clipping interview with Joe Strummer, late Clash frontman and one-time regular. "Joe said that chilling in Somerset with a flagon of Wilkins' Farmhouse Cider was his little bit of heaven."

Magician's flourish

An hour's drive away, I find a magic trick in a bottle at The Newt in Somerset. "It's subtle,

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IMAGES: DAVE WATTS (TOP RIGHT, INSET)

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The Guide

right?" says cellar hand Max Warman. "If we tasted blind, you'd assume it's a vinho verde." We're sampling The Newt's Wyvern Wing Cyder in the sleek distillery that greets guests at the front gate, overlooking an 18th-century walled parabola trellised with 300 apple varieties.

The Newt, which is also a hotel, began production in 2018, a year before it welcomed visitors to its 3,000 acres of woodland, farmland and gardens strung between the towns of Bruton and Castle Cary. Its 65 acres of orchards produce 70 apple varieties, many innovatively processed using modern winemaking with traditional cider-pressing techniques. Crisp and zesty with a hint of apple, Wyvern Wing is a wine by any other name. "If I have cider with a meal, it's this," Max continues. "From a wine glass, to release the aromatics."

Wyvern Wing is one of The Newt's family of small-batch ciders (or cyders — the old spelling

reflecting the estate's Georgian origins), made using cold-fermentation cellar methods. In the case of Wyvern Wing, pinot grigio yeast is added, while méthode champenoise creates the champagne-style Winston. "We take inspiration from Babylonstoren," says Max, of The Newt's South African sister winery.

Unusually, Wyvern Wing is made with Braeburn apples. "Eaters can create interesting ciders," explains Max. Most, though, use cider apples, which are tarter, with thicker skins — like Yarlington Mill Cyder, made with the titular variety discovered a stone's throw from here in the 1800s. It's a gently fizzy tipple, cider-tannic, with a toffee finish. But the Ice Cyder is the final magician's flourish: made by freezing apple juice, it's a dead ringer for the Canadian ice wines it's inspired by. "And," says Max, "it's surprisingly good with prosecco, as a spritz."

Stay: Bed down overlooking the apple orchards in Thornfalcon's country-style hut, bijou barn or coach house, all with kitchens, sleeping two to five, from £170. A tour and wine tasting costs £25; book at thornfalcon.com. To stay here or on other West Country cider farms, book through kiphideaways.com

Do: Cider Bus Saturdays at Burrow Hill Cider Farm come with live music and food truck treats. Cellar tours reveal award-winning apple eau-de-vie and cider brandy. somersetciderbrandy.com

More info: visitsomerset.co.uk

TOP SOMERSET FOOD EXPERIENCES

THE NEWT IN SOMERSET

Dine on foraged foods, cured fish and estate-reared meat at The Botanical Rooms in the Georgian manor house, or try veggie-forward lunches — fennel soup, spiced roasted cauliflower — at its hillside Garden Café, with sweeping estate views. thenewtinsomerset.com

FROME FARMERS' MARKET

Cheese is the perfect cider pairing. This east Somerset town market sells brie-style Bath Soft Cheese, naturally rinded offerings from Somerset Cheese Company and Godminster's cracking organic vintage cheddar. It's held on the second Saturday of the month. somersetfarmersmarkets.co.uk

OSIP

Farm-to-table tasting menus at this Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms, in a former pub on the outskirts of Bruton, might include lovage broth, fermented potato brioche, black pig with grilled nettles, sorrel sorbet with rhubarb. Plus: house-made ciders. osiprestaurant.com

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where to stay

Manchester

The northern city is in the throes of a renaissance. Recent years have brought the opening of several world-class galleries and music venues, the first Michelin stars and an economic boom. This energy is reflected in the accommodation scene, with hotels often housed in the very buildings — cotton mills and warehouses — that were central to transforming Manchester’s fortunes in the first place during the Industrial Revolution. Fitting spots to lay your head, then, after exploring the Capital of the North.

WORDS AMANDA CANNING & DANIEL STABLES

Best for whimsical design

FREEHOUSE HOTEL

You get no hint of it from its rather unlovely 1970s tower-block exterior, a short walk from the Arndale shopping centre, but magic awaits when you step into Treehouse Hotel Manchester. Its playful character instantly reveals itself in the welcoming open-plan foyer, bar and restaurant on the ground floor — plants drip from the ceiling; wooden bird boxes cling to mismatched timber cladding; coloured bottles and LPs line shelves. Guests can help themselves to pick and mix before heading upstairs to their rooms — comfortable places with thick rugs, patterned quilts and Donna Wilson’s distinctive wool cushions right at home beneath the stripped-back concrete ceilings. If you like the styling, you can pick up a selection of homewares from the shop.

ROOMS: From £209. treehousehotels.com

Best for opulence

STOCK EXCHANGE HOTEL

Reigning over Manchester’s luxury hotel scene is this gorgeous five-star, which, true to its name, sits within the city’s former stock exchange. The welcome is suitably grand, with monochrome tiled floors, green marble door arches and high-reaching ceilings. The aesthetic is continued in the rooms, which are named after the architects behind this Edwardian baroque masterpiece. Beneath the soaring dome of the former trading floor is the restaurant, Tender. The afternoon teas here are sublime, while chef Niall Keating’s regularly changing menu showcases the bounty of the seasons. After dinner, make your way to Sterlin, the cocktail bar in the old subterranean vault — one of the city’s slickest spots for a nightcap.

ROOMS: From £175. stockexchangehotel.co.uk

ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, BOOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED IMAGES: AWI, IMAGES, SIMON BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY, STOCK EXCHANGE HOTEL

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Best for flexibility on a budget

📌 NATIVE MANCHESTER

In a handsome redbrick warehouse on the edge of the Northern Quarter, Native Manchester offers every type of accommodation you might care to think of, from roomy doubles up to two-bedroom apartments. Most come with kitchen areas, and the impressive two-storey penthouses have enormous terraces looking over the skyline. Good use is made of the building’s heritage throughout, with exposed brick walls, arched ceilings and thick metal columns as decorative features. Plans are afoot to open a food hall in the cavernous ground-floor social space; for now, guests can grab a snack from the coffee counter and lounge on one of the low leather sofas.

ROOMS: From £72. nativeplaces.com

Best for a big night out

📌 LEVEN

A lively boutique hotel in a restored cotton warehouse, Leven proudly bares its industrial bones, with thick pillars and exposed redbrick walls. Cosy touches like velvet sofas and potted plants keep the rooms feeling homely, and larger penthouse suites also have kitchens. The hotel lounge, set around a striking viridian fish-scale-tiled bar, serves continental breakfasts each morning and extravagant cocktails by night (try the Salford spiced rum, banana liquor and caramel concoction). Beneath the hotel is Maya, a three-storey club, bar and restaurant serving modern European cuisine and flamboyant drag shows.

ROOMS: From £104. liveleven.com

Best for creatives

📌 THE ALAN

Another hotel in an ex-industrial space — this time a Victorian cotton warehouse — The Alan preserves and celebrates its history while adding a modern twist. Bedrooms feature pink polished concrete walls, hand-painted enamel lampshades and abstract paintings by local artists. The downstairs bar, meanwhile, takes elevation of the mundane to new heights, with cigarette butts, weeds and flowers preserved in resin in the bar front, inspired by the nearby M62 motorway. Local creatives flock to the centrally located hotel to work and socialise, with great coffee and all-day dining ranging from imaginative dishes like burnt cauliflower soup to more familiar pizzas, burgers and fish and chips.

ROOMS: From £75. thealanhotel.com

Clockwise from top left: An industrial-style bedroom at Leven; dining at The Alan; the ground-floor social space at Native; cocktails at the Leven bar

IMAGES: HEIKO PRIGGE; THE ALAN; HOTEL MANCHESTER; NATIVE MANCHESTER; CARL SUKONIK; THE VAN PHOTOGRAPHY

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Best for maximalist design

COW HOLLOW HOTEL

The Northern Quarter – Manchester’s original hipster neighbourhood – is a buzzing district of record shops, live-music bars, art galleries and clothing stores. At its heart, and embodying all the boutique quirkiness of the area, is the Cow Hollow Hotel, where a smorgasbord of styles – Moroccan tilework, art deco glitz, wood-beamed rusticity – collide. The city’s industrial heritage is evident; the hotel is set in an old textile warehouse and the owners have honoured the building’s past by retaining old cogs and wheels in the rooms and incorporating railway sleepers into the furniture. With free prosecco and snacks in the bar each evening, a stay here is as much about the service as the surrounds.

ROOMS: From £99. cowhollow.co.uk

Best for Victorian grandeur

KIMPTON CLOCKTOWER HOTEL

Manchester hotel settings don’t come much more iconic than the Kimpton Clocktower Hotel, which occupies a grand redbrick baroque building built in 1895 as an insurance office, later becoming the Palace Hotel. Rooms retain period features, like double-height ceilings and arched windows. One of the dining spaces, Refuge, is among the most handsome in the city and serves a global menu. From the floor to the soaring ceilings, propped up with marble columns, the walls are tiled with ceramics dating from the building’s Victorian heyday. The Winter Garden glasshouse, meanwhile, is a gorgeous place to bask in the sunlight and work your way through the menu of eclectic small plates, rooted in the best British ingredients.

ROOMS: From £114. kimptonclocktowerhotel.com

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Best for a sophisticated sanctuary

DAKOTA

Those with an eye for a moody, glamorous aesthetic will love Dakota, where dark wood and dim lighting are set off by the odd playful touch, like a statue in the lobby of a dog made from coiled rope. The noirish, cosmopolitan luxury of the rooms extends to the bar, which is decked out in similarly moody blacks, browns and greys, while The Grill serves up some of the city’s finest wagyu steaks. Tempted as you’ll be to remain cocooned in the hotel for your entire stay, don’t miss the chance to explore the marina, wine bars and restaurants of nearby New Islington, one of the city’s hippest neighbourhoods.

ROOMS: From £154. dakotahotels.co.uk

Best for good-value style

WHITWORTH LOCKE

Housed in a converted 19th-century cotton mill, Whitworth Locke’s self-catering apartments combine industrial touches — exposed brick, pipework and grid windows — with mid-century furnishings and a calming, salmon-and-sage colour palette. All have kitchens so you can cook for yourself, but with acclaimed restaurant Winsome downstairs delivering elevated takes on British classics such as pease pudding and meat pies, you might not want to. There’s also a brick-walled coffee lounge that’s great for remote working or a leisurely brunch. The surrounding area is home to buzzing venues, restaurants and pop culture landmarks, not least a giant sculpture of a Vimto bottle.

ROOMS: From £80. lockeliving.com

From top: The lobby area at the Dakota; a bedroom with living space at Whitworth Locke; Winsome restaurant at Whitworth Locke serves seasonal British food

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IMAGES: DAKOTA HOTELS, LOCKE/EDYN

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Embrace

Respectful Tourism

ASTURIAS AWAITS

Principado de Asturias

Asturias naturel paradise

Financiado por la Unión Europea NextGenerationEU

turismoasturias.es

MINISTERIO DE ASUNTOS Y DEPORTES

Plan de Recuperación, Complimentar y Resiliencia

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take two

Boston

A city of baseball champions and 18th-century revolutionaries, the capital of Massachusetts is no stranger to being at the centre of world events

WORDS JONATHAN THOMPSON

Boston is justifiably proud of its sporting heritage. Nicknamed 'Title Town' for its haul of championship trophies across four major sports, it's home to legendary arenas like Fenway Park — the oldest active Major League Baseball stadium in the US — and it hosted seven nail-biting football matches in this year's World Cup. But what about the city behind the stadiums? This summer, Boston also marked 250 years of American Independence. The city's Downtown taverns were once witness to fiery discussions that altered the course of history, and below the gleaming skyline you'll find key sites from the revolution. These include the Old South Meeting House (the staging ground for the Boston Tea Party) and Paul Revere House, home to the famed Bostonian rebel whose midnight ride in April 1775 sparked the crucial battles of Lexington and Concord. Sure, they attract wildly different crowds, but sport and history both tap into one of the city's greatest strengths: its ability to tell a great story.

Clockwise from top: The Freedom Trail takes in Boston's historic red-brick buildings; the birthplace of John F Kennedy in Brookline; a statue of George Washington overlooks the lawns of Boston Public Garden

1 HISTORY

Walk free

The Freedom Trail is a two-and-a-half-mile ribbon of red bricks linking sites from the American War of Independence. Start at the Boston Common Visitor Center and head to the Bunker Hill Monument, which pays tribute to the first major battle of the war. Step off the trail and onto Winthrop Lane in the Financial District, where bronze bricks in the paving reveal a more playful history, commemorating everything from the city's rowing clubs to its notoriously aggressive drivers. thefreedomtrail.org

Toss the tea

The Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum invites visitors to get hands-on with history — by recreating the symbolic tossing of British tea crates into Boston Harbour. Guided by actors in period costume, you'll board a restored tall ship and heave replica crates into the same waters where the protest occurred, accompanied by loud chants of 'Huzzah!' bostonteapartyship.com

Explore JFK's Boston

Boston is packed with sites relating to its most famous son, John F Kennedy, including the former president's childhood home in the leafy Brookline neighbourhood. For something more intimate, head to one of his favourite restaurants, the burgundy-bricked Union Oyster House on Union Street. Book his beloved Booth 18 and enjoy the lobster stew he was known to devour while reading the Sunday papers. nps.gov unionoysterhouse.com

See revolutionary art

The new Art of the Americas gallery at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston spotlights 18th-century work from North, Central and South America. Highlights of the 400-strong collection include Thomas Sully's dramatic depiction of George Washington in The Passage of the Delaware and André Pierre's Retour Des Esprits Guinen, a tribute to Haiti's War of Independence. mfa.org

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IMAGES: ALAMY, GETTY, AWL IMAGES

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The Guide

The lone red seat

The most famous seat in Boston is deep in the Fenway Park bleachers. Painted bright red, it's the landing spot of the longest home run ever hit at America's 'Most Beloved Ballpark': a superhuman slug by Ted Williams in 1946. The baseball hit a spectator sitting in this chair, ripping through his straw hat. The fan survived — and so has the record.

From top: Runners on Boylston Street, approaching the finish line at the Boston Marathon; Fenway Park's baseball ground is home to the famous red seat

2

SPORT

Finish strong

Every April, Boston hosts one of the world's most iconic marathons. It's notoriously difficult to get a place in the event itself, but thankfully there are plenty of year-round tours that can give you a taste of the action. Among the best is Run 'Boston', which invites you to lace up your trainers and run three miles of the route with a guide, stopping at significant landmarks en route. tourbostonsports.com

Make a Fenway pilgrimage

America's oldest Major League Baseball stadium, Fenway Park somehow feels both monumental and wonderfully intimate. Catching a game here is rightfully considered a bucket list item, with the season running from March to October. Cheap tickets are available on game days from Gate E 90 minutes before the game starts, while the 60-minute official tour gives fascinating insight into some of the ballpark's most historic moments. thefenway.com

Step into sporting history

Boston has turned sporting fandom into something approaching a civic religion, and The Sports Museum contains half a mile of exhibits telling the tale of the city's athletic heritage. Situated inside TD Garden — home of the Boston Celtics basketball team and Boston Bruins ice hockey team — it covers everything from boxing legends to NFL dynasties. sportsmuseum.org

Howl at the banshee

As sports bars go, The Banshee is in a class of its own — a legendary Bostonian establishment where fans gather for any and every sporting clash, from NFL to Gaelic football, often from as early as 6am. Tucked away in the Dorchester neighbourhood (known as 'Dot' to locals), it's famed for its boisterous but welcoming atmosphere and wide selection of beers, including New England favourite, Fiddlehead. bansheeboston.com

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IMAGES ALAMY

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AVIGNONESI

Discover Le Capezzine, Avignonesi's historic estate in the hills of Montepulciano, where biodynamic vineyards, farm animals and authentic Tuscan hospitality come together for unforgettable wine and food experiences.

Photo by @cartacarbone

Plan your visit at avignonesi.it/en/experiences

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SEEN EVERYTHING?

PROVE IT

JET SKI EXPEDITIONS

ACROSS THE GLOBE -

FROM PATAGONIA TO INDONESIA

FROM WILD RIVERS

TO THE OPEN OCEAN

Humpback whales – up close in the wild

Where the map ends – and exploration begins

A front-row seat to the largest creatures on Earth

Moments that stay with you for a lifetime

EXCLUSIVE JOURNEYS

EXPERT GUIDES

ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

SLEDEXT.COM

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Expert Traveller.

THE LOWDOWN • KIT LIST • BEYOND TRAVEL • THE STORY BEHIND • HOW TO • GREAT LITTLE PLACE • MY TRAVELS

IMAGE: ANTONIA BLACK/PELORUS

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THE LOWDOWN

Can you overcome a fear of flying?

AVIATION ANXIETY HAS BECOME INCREASINGLY WIDESPREAD SINCE THE PANDEMIC, BUT THERE'S MORE HELP THAN EVER FOR NERVOUS FLYERS

WORDS DOM TULETT

"Now you'll hear the engines get louder as the pilots prepare for the take-off run. It's all perfectly normal." Captain Gordon MacLean's soft Scottish accent drifts over the intercom as we taxi towards the runway at Birmingham, about to take off for a special 45-minute EasyJet flight — the concluding module of its Fearless Flyer programme.

As we accelerate down the runway, I focus on controlling my breathing and picturing a positive outcome, as my training had advised. Sitting next to me is Elias Gathercole, a 20-year-old student from London. He hadn't set foot on a plane in seven years. Every summer, he's watched friends fly overseas on their holidays. He turns 21 in August and wants to mark the occasion in Ibiza.

Elias and I fall into the estimated 10% of Brits who suffer from aerophobia, a fear of flying. It's an affliction that, for many, affects travel habits. A 2026 Confused.com survey of 2,000 nervous British flyers found that 30% would rather holiday within the UK than board a plane. Nearly a quarter who do go overseas have opted to journey by car, train or ferry. This is despite flying being statistically the safest form of transport. The US's Bureau of Transportation Statistics data for the decade from 2010 to 2019 shows commercial air travel comfortably led the way in terms of safety. For every

billion passenger miles travelled by commercial airlines in the US, there were 0.002 fatalities. This compares with 0.31 for trains, 3.5 for cars and 212 for motorcycles.

Globally, the International Air Transport Association (IATA) estimates flight avoidance costs airlines and the tourism industry $2.5bn (£1.89bn) annually in lost revenue. It's something European airlines are keen to address. Since launching in 2012, EasyJet's Fearless Flyer course has helped more than 14,000 people. It involves completing 16 online modules, ranging from four to 20 minutes in length. The intention is to demystify aircraft noises and motions, and outline techniques to cope with anxiety. It culminates with a real-life flight at one of the airline's UK bases. British Airways and Lufthansa run similar programmes and companies such as LoveFly and FlightPad are also moving into the space, offering online courses and simulator sessions.

Professor Rob Bor, a clinical and aerospace psychologist and co-author of the book Overcome Your Fear of Flying, explains fears and phobias can often be addressed by an individual simply trying to avoid the cause of their anxiety. "If you were afraid of snakes, you wouldn't go into the reptile cage at a zoo," says Bor. "But for many people, getting in a plane is unavoidable." In this case, cure is better than prevention.

Turbulence is frequently cited as a major cause of aerophobia. Ignacio Gallego-Marcos holds a doctorate in computational fluid dynamics — simulating how liquids and gases interact with solid objects — and runs the popular Turbli website, which aims to provide complete coverage of the atmospheric conditions affecting flight. Explaining why he set up Turbli, Gallego-Marcos says, "Previously, only pilots would have this information, but it's useful for passengers, too — particularly if they're anxious."

Turbli has more than 300,000 monthly users and that number is growing, with fearful flyers able to view weather and turbulence maps, and which routes encounter the greatest disruption. Turbulence develops in areas where air experiences sudden velocity changes; jet streams and mountain waves are two of the most significant factors. It's for this reason that Turbli's annual ranking of routes with the highest average turbulence is populated with flights that pass over the Andes and the Tibetan Plateau.

It was a flight across the Andes that brought on a fear of flying for Lloyd Figgins, an international security advisor and risk expert. A frequent flyer, Figgins is aware of how safe commercial air travel is, but a sudden, sharp drop in altitude caused by turbulence on a flight to Colombia changed things for him. "The oxygen

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IMAGE GETTY

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masks came down and then there were surreal moments: the long hair of the woman sitting in front of me fanned upwards above her head; a miniature bottle of Johnny Walker hovered at eye height above the tray table.” The plane landed safely without any damage — commercial aircraft are built to withstand forces far exceeding even severe turbulence, and turbulence alone has never brought down a modern commercial aircraft.

Nevertheless, a new anxiety was unlocked. He wasn’t cured until 10 years later, when he eventually took a fear of flying course.

Turbulence is a major fear for me, too. But having it explained during the flight itself helps change how I view it. Mark Wein, director of EasyJet’s Fearless Flyer course, says, “Turbulence is a good thing, a great thing; it’s a sign there’s air around us, which is needed for flight.” He goes on to explain how our perception makes turbulence

feel worse than it is. “Picture your drive to the airport; that will be bumpier than this flight.”

Airlines train their cabin crew to spot and support nervous flyers. British Airways includes access to their Flying with Confidence YouTube video in the entertainment package on long-haul flights. Other digital solutions are also available for passengers now. The SkyGuru app, which has amassed more than 200,000 users, works like

From left: The route from Birmingham to Gdansk, Poland is one of the least turbulent in Europe; flight anxiety increased during and after the pandemic, as people flew less during that period Previous pages: A plane coming into land above Antigua and Barbuda

FIVE TURBULENT-LIGHT ROUTES FROM THE UK

These short-haul routes experience the lowest average levels of turbulence, according to Turbli.com. They’re less prone to encounters with the polar jet stream or thunderstorms, and avoid major mountains

MANCHESTER TO TALLINN

Time your visit to coincide with one of Europe’s best Christmas markets and wander the Old Town’s medieval maze of cobblestone alleyways.

GLASGOW TO REYKJAVÍK

The perfect base for Iceland’s headline attractions: whale-watching, soaking in the Blue Lagoon and chasing the Northern Lights.

LONDON TO HELSINKI

This Unesco City of Design showcases the best of Finnish style, with art galleries, fashion stores and craft shops. Then, turn up the heat with a visit to a traditional sauna.

LONDON TO STOCKHOLM

Tour the Swedish capital’s many cultural attractions, including the Nobel Prize Museum, the preserved 17th-century warship Vasa and an ABBA museum.

BIRMINGHAM TO GDANSK

Follow northern Poland’s Amber Route, visit the largest castle in the world in nearby Malbork, then kick back on the beaches of the Baltic coastline.

IMAGES: GETTY

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Expert Traveller.

having a pilot and a therapist on your phone. Launched in 2016, its features include explanations of the noises and movements of the aircraft in real-time, alongside guided relaxation exercises.

Not all nervous flyers have had a negative flight experience. Other course participants talked about personal circumstances, such as becoming a parent, changing their outlook on life; having more to lose if anything went wrong made them fearful. Another noted how Covid affected them; the increased safety measures, risk of infection and becoming unused to flying during lockdown contributing to raised anxiety.

Google searches in the US for 'Is it safe to fly?' peaked during the pandemic. British Airways adapted its Flying with Confidence course to include reassurance around Covid safety measures. Still, a 2021 University of Bristol survey into passenger attitudes found 57.7% of respondents felt that, even after being vaccinated, they'd fly less post-Covid.

Though sentiment has improved since the pandemic, there are other factors. Google searches linked to flight safety and anxiety spiked again in February 2025 shortly after a mid-air collision above the Potomac River in Washington, DC. Some 65% of Americans questioned in a 2025 survey by The Points Guy said they were more nervous about flying considering recent accidents, despite that mode of transport remaining significantly safer than others.

That anxiety is due in large part due to the high-profile nature of any incident. Nervous passengers don't think about the 35 million commercial flights that safely complete their journeys each year; they focus on the tiny number that don't. People are drawn to footage of plane crashes. One YouTube video of 2025's Air India crash in Ahmedabad has clocked up more than 22 million views.

Whenever there's an incident, the industry responds. In his 2025 Annual Safety Review, Robert Balls, chief inspector of air accidents at the UK government's

Air Accidents Investigation Branch, notes global accident rates are continuing to decline over the long term. Balls writes that accidents highlight the key purposes behind investigations, to 'identify remaining vulnerabilities, understand new risks and help prevent future occurrences'.

But perhaps the biggest positive is people are now doing more to help themselves. A survey by Phobia.aero, a website set up by a former airline pilot to help passengers with flight anxiety, revealed a greater understanding and acceptance of mental health difficulties during Covid led to a 35% increase in people seeking treatment for flight anxiety.

Two days after our flight, I check in on Elias. The EasyJet course worked for him, as it has for 95% of participants. He's making up for lost time: "I'm flying to Portugal in July and France soon as well. I'm booking Ibiza next week." And me? I'm plotting my next flight, confident that any shift in motion or sound is all perfectly normal. fearlessflyer.easyjet.com

TIPS TO OVERCOME A FEAR OF FLYING

Professor Rob Bor is a certified clinical and aerospace psychologist who helps people overcome their flying anxieties.

KNOWLEDGE

IS POWER

Before your flight, familiarise yourself with the sounds and movements the plane will make so they don't surprise or scare you.

EMBRACE

TURBULENCE

Picture the plane in a pocket of air, like a blueberry in jelly. When the jelly moves, the blueberry moves within it; it doesn't fall out.

CONTROL

YOUR BREATHING

Slowing your breathing slows your heart rate and calms you down. Consciously manage your breathing, taking deep, slow breaths in, then exhaling fully.

TRICK YOUR BRAIN

Clenching and unclenching your buttocks tricks the central nervous system, which is subconsciously tensing your body when anxious. By deliberately tensing one body part, you can regain control.

TAKE A FEAR OF

FLYING COURSE

Tailored courses demystify the flight experience, teach coping mechanisms for anxiety and provide hands-on support for nervous passengers.

SEPTEMBER 2026

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KIT LIST

Birdwatching

THESE ITEMS WILL HELP YOU SPOT, IDENTIFY AND RECORD THE AVIAN LIFE AROUND YOU – AND REMAIN COMFORTABLE WHILE YOU DO SO

HARPER COLLINS

BRITISH BIRD IDENTIFIER

You'll soon be able to tell your common snipe from your woodcock with this beautifully illustrated book. It gives you the tools to identify every bird species in Britain via five visible features, including beak shape, wing pattern and the barring on tail feathers. £12.99. harpercollins.co.uk

RSPB SKYLARK

BINOCULARS

These entry-level binoculars rival much pricier options. The 8x42 magnification is ideal for scanning an area for avian life, balancing good stability with a wide field of view. Not too bulky, not too heavy, they're also fully waterproof and nitrogen-filled to prevent fogging in damp conditions. £100. shopping.rspb.org.uk

CRAGHOPPERS NOSILIFE

SOLARSHIELD+ LONG SLEEVED T-SHIRT

These technical tops (available with short sleeves, long sleeves or as half-zip) are a useful all- rounder when birdwatching around wetlands, in the forest or out in full sun. They're moisture- wicking, insect-repellant and accredited by the British Skin Foundation for sun protection. £50. craghoppers.com

FIELD NOTES

ORIGINAL KRAFT

Founder Aaron Draglin created the first Field Notes memo book as a gift for friends to record their observations while out in nature. The brand's Original Kraft notebook still looks much the same – pocket-sized with 48 smudge-proof pages (graph, ruled or plain) on which to record bird sightings. £12.45 for a pack of three. wildbounds.com

WALKSTOOL

COMFORT 55

Any keen birdwatcher knows patience is key. Enter this portable aluminium and mesh stool by Swedish specialist Walkstool, with options supporting up to 250kg. Simply release the three telescopic legs and extend them until they click into place – they fold back into a compact bag. £105 for the 55 (medium). oakwoodoptix.co.uk

MERLIN BIRD ID APP

Developed by Cornell University, this free-to-use app can identify more than 2,000 bird species by listening to their calls, with coverage across multiple continents. You can save recordings to replay later and add all birds you've ever heard to a 'life list'. There's also a guide to help work out which species you've spotted. merlin.allaboutbirds.org

FJÄLLRÄVEN

GREENLAND SHOULDER BAG

Fit all your birdwatching kit in this 12-litre bag. It's made from durable G-1000 fabric, which is water-resistant and quick-drying. The six pockets – a little one at the back, plus inner zippered compartments – help organise valuables and essentials like snacks and sunscreen. £129. fjallraven.com

NIKON FIELDSCOPE ED50

When your binoculars won't go the distance, you can rely on this spotting scope to provide an exceptional level of detail for birds up to 52 metres away. While you'll need to budget for the eyepiece (sold separately), the ED50 is still more affordable than many comparable models – and the waterproofing means it'll likely remain in your kit for years to come. £449. nikon.co.uk

PRICES CORRECT AT TIME OF PRINT. WORDS: NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK) TEAM: IMAGE: KOSTADIN LUCHANSKY/ANGOLA IMAGE BANK

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BEYOND TRAVEL

What's online?

HEAD TO NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM TO DISCOVER HOW EXPERTS ARE SOLVING THE EARTH'S MYSTERIES, INCLUDING THE ORIGIN OF THE OKAVANGO DELTA AND ENIGMATIC NASCA LINES

SCIENCE

The Okavango wilderness gives up its secrets

When the rains sweep across Southern Africa each October, the rivers feeding the Okavango Delta flood their banks and wash over an 11,000sq mile area. Because of the sheer difficulty of navigating this waterscape, much about life here long remained a mystery. Even the source of the delta's rivers eluded explorers. There are no glaciers, snowcapped peaks or ice caves: how could the waterways flow freely, even through the long dry season? For more than a decade, a team of researchers has explored Southern Africa looking for answers. Their work has led to the discovery of a lifetime. nationalgeographic.com/science

HISTORY

Nasca lines uncovered with the help of AI The discovery of geoglyphs in southern Peru has been supercharged by artificial intelligence. More than 300 figures etched in the Nasca desert have been identified in just six months, almost doubling the previously known number. The new glyphs — showing domesticated animals, anthropomorphic figures and human heads — are relatively small, and may have fulfilled roles quite different from those of the sprawling images the area is best known for. The latest findings are a striking addition to the catalogue — and could help solve the mystery surrounding these enigmatic designs. nationalgeographic.com/history

ANIMALS

Can these endearing parrots survive on their own?

When a species' population gets down to the double digits, extinction is usually near. But thanks to extraordinary measures taken by conservation teams in New Zealand, the critically endangered kākāpō — a nocturnal, flightless, powerfully sweet-smelling parrot — is experiencing a hard-earned renaissance. With a baby boom in motion that could boost the population by up to 40%, the kākāpō's stewards are confronted with a new problem: how do you wean a species off intensive support without pushing them back to the brink of extinction? nationalgeographic.com/animals

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THE STORY BEHIND

Mooncakes

AS THE MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL APPROACHES, WE DIG INTO CHINESE CULTURE'S MOST LEGEND-LADEN TREAT

Long ago, a mythical archer named Hou Yi raised his bow and, with expert aim, shot down nine of the 10 suns scorching farmlands below. His reward? Eternal life. Sadly, the elixir he received passed the lips not of Hou Yi but his wife Chang'e, whose spirit promptly floated up to the moon and made its home there. Heartbroken, he decided to prepare some dishes that might remind the new lunar goddess of Earth. One of them was a round, filled pastry that's since become the treat of the Mid-Autumn Festival, an ancient harvest celebration that sees people in China, Taiwan and across the Chinese cultural sphere gather for family feasts, dragon dances and a spot of moongazing.

Mooncakes really took off during the reign of the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE), with emperors handing them out to their subjects on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month. Under the Tang, they contained only seeds, nuts or meats. But if the legend is to be believed, by the 14th century mooncakes were being stuffed with something far more incendiary: paper messages urging people to revolt against China's new rulers, the Yuan. Exchanged by every household to mark a successful harvest, the sweet became the perfect vessel for revolution.

It worked, too. The Yuan gave way to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644 CE), by which time mooncakes had themselves become etched with meaning — bakers stamped characters and symbols onto the crust to wish friends and family prosperity. The symbols endure, as do many of the customary fillings, including white lotus seed paste with salted duck egg yolks. The more yolks you find inside, the greater your prosperity for the year ahead.

For some, such traditional flavours are old hat compared to the incarnations that have sprung from ovens since. Wander into a bakery in Taipei, Hong Kong or Singapore around the time of the Mid-Autumn Festival and you'll find mooncakes made with cookie crusts, ice cream, jelly, champagne and even sea snail. Still, the mooncake serves the same function it always has: to forge togetherness under the light of the harvest moon.

Try it: Mooncakes typically appear in bakeries one month ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival, which takes place on 25 September this year. They're a dime a dozen in Beijing's hutongs (traditional alleys), but you'll find them almost anywhere Chinese culture has laid down roots. SAM KEMP

1.8 million

The estimated number of boxes of mooncakes consumed by households in Hong Kong in 2023

秋

The Chinese character for qiū (autumn)

4

The number of slices people typically divide mooncakes into, with families sharing the dessert over a cup of tea

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HOW TO

Shoot smart

THESE SIMPLE STEPS CAN HELP YOU MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SMARTPHONE, TURNING A GOOD SHOT INTO A GREAT ONE

Taking a high-definition photograph requires no more than the simple tap of a digital button. While phone cameras can't match the image quality and control level offered by DSLRs or mirrorless systems, manufacturers like Apple, Samsung, Google and Xiaomi are releasing models with ever-more enhanced features, quickly narrowing the limitations that once defined the medium. Yet, capturing a compelling image still requires technical know-how, practice and a creative touch.

First, understand your camera settings and properties. Different models have different sensor sizes, megapixel counts, lens options, shooting modes, AI capabilities and editing tools. Once you know what your phone can do, the next assignment is to, well, take a photo.

Phones are compact by design, with relatively small sensors, which equate to a lower image quality. By zooming in, you're effectively further reducing the number of pixels in a shot. Where you can, physically

move closer to the subject. If that's not possible, it's still almost always better to take a pulled-back photo, then crop it.

An easy guideline to achieve a well-balanced frame is following the rule of thirds — a grid you can turn on and off in your smartphone settings. It divides a scene into two horizontal and two vertical lines. Placing your subject along them or at their intersection often creates a more visually appealing result.

While phones are designed to do the heavy lifting when it comes to correcting lighting, manipulating it manually can make a world of difference in harsh conditions. The simplest way of doing so is to adjust the exposure — a sun slider that appears when you tap the screen to focus — to brighten or darken your shot.

Any serious photographer will tell you the best way to hone your skills is to shoot every day. The best camera is the one you have on you — and more often than not, that's the smartphone in your hand. AISHA NAZAR

TOP TIPS FOR...

LOW-LIGHT CONDITIONS

Phones have to work harder than digital cameras to process light, especially when capturing dark scenes, where the slightest tremor can result in images that are blurry or soft. A tripod can help — brands like Joby and Benro offer additional features like bendable legs that wrap around objects. joby.com uk.benroeu.com

CAPTURING WILDLIFE

If you're on safari or a birdwatching tour, try holding your phone up to the eyepiece of your binoculars (avoiding direct contact so as not to risk scratching the lenses). The results won't be perfect — expect some dark corners — but the close-up view makes it worth a try.

SHOOTING PROFESSIONALLY

Some phones allow you to shoot in 'manual' (sometimes called 'pro'), which lets you change the ISO and shutter speed. If yours doesn't, you can do so in apps like Adobe's Lightroom Mobile. Turn on raw files via your phone settings or camera app to save unprocessed photo data, providing greater post-processing flexibility — just be aware this will increase the file size.

EDITING

Adjust colours or remove them altogether, lift or deepen shadows and experiment with contrast and highlights. There are loads of tools to choose from: Snapseed is a free, decent and easy-to-use option; for serious amateurs, Lightroom Mobile allows for greater flexibility and syncs with a desktop app.

IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY

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CamperDays

THE WORLD LOOKS DIFFERENT FROM

THE OPEN ROAD

Some of the best travel memories aren't found at the destination but along the way. A quiet road through the Tuscan countryside. An unexpected stop in a hilltop village. A sunset overlooking the Mediterranean.

Travelling by campervan gives you the freedom to follow curiosity wherever it leads. Start with Italy, then keep exploring: one road, one landscape, one unforgettable journey at a time.

Your adventure starts here.

SAVE £100

using code 26CDT for bookings priced £999 and over

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

TRAVELLER

ITALY

COLLECTION

DIRECTORY

158 BORGO SAN FELICE RESORT

160 ESPLANADE TERGESTEO

161 FALKENSTEINER HOTEL KRONPLATZ

162 THE EXCELSIOR, A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, FLORENCE

164 GREAT RAIL JOURNEYS

165 HOTEL URBANA

166 LIGURIA REGION

168 PARKHOTEL LAURIN

169 SAILING COLLECTIVE

170 SAVORING SLOWLY

171 TRAVELSPHERE

IMAGE-GETTY

THIS IS PAID CONTENT. IT DOES NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THE VIEWS OF NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK) OR THEIR EDITORIAL STAFF.

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Dramatic mountain peaks surround the Lakes of Purple in Lombardy.

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ITALY COLLECTION

ITALY'S hidden waterways

While Italy's lake region has long held glamorous appeal, the country's lesser-known waterways can offer a more intimate experience — and a glimpse into authentic local life. Words: Angelina Villa-Clarke

The allure of Italy's lake region stretches back to Roman times, when nobles retreated to the mirrored waters of Lake Como and Lake Garda to escape the southern heat. In the late 19th century, well-heeled aristocrats and artists began holidaying in the region, transforming it into one of Europe's most prestigious destinations. These days, visitors still flock to the country's most popular lakes, arriving in their millions each year. But Italy is dotted with lesser-known lakes, lagoons, rivers and waterfalls, offering travellers a chance to cool off, spend time in nature and find peaceful moments away from the crowds.

MINCIO RIVER, LOMBARDY

Flowing south from Lake Garda, the Mincio River snakes some 46 miles through Lombardy before it forms three lakes around the Renaissance town of Mantua. For cyclists, a scenic 28-mile path follows the course of the river, starting at Peschiera del Garda (at the mouth of Lake Garda, located around a half-hour drive from Verona airport). Winding past fields of poppies, ancient fortifications and some of Italy's most beautiful villages, the cycle path is known as the longest 'green motorway' in the country. Stop off at Valeggio sul Mincio to refuel with a plate of the local speciality: meat tortellini, typically served in a clear broth. In Mantua, explore the grand palazzos, cobbled piazzas and the three surrounding lakes — Superiore, Mezzo and Inferiore — that were engineered in the 12th century to protect the city. Today, the lakes offer activities such as boating and kayaking.

NORTHERN LAGOON, VENETO

The city of Venice is made up of 118 islands spread across the Venetian Lagoon, in the Adriatic Sea. The islands of Murano and Lido are well-trodden, but travellers who head further north will reach a world that's far removed from popular sights such as Venice's St Mark's Square. Here, narrow canals open out to the wider lagoon, where fishermen catch soft-shell crabs and goby (a local fish often served in risotto) from the mudbanks. On the island of Torcello (easily accessible using Venice's vaporetti waterbus system), visitors can stroll along the quiet walkway to visit the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, with its depiction of the Last Judgement on its west wall and precious Byzantine mosaics. Dating back to 639 CE, it's the oldest church in the Venetian Lagoon.

LAKES OF PORCILE, LOMBARDY

Tucked away in the Orobie Alps of Lombardy is a trio of lakes that could be Italy's best-kept secret. Just over an hour and a half's drive north east of Lake Como, the Lakes of Porcile offer a much more off-grid experience. Found at over 2,000 metres above sea level, the mountain lakes have stunning views, with snow-capped peaks framing their emerald waters. For hikers, there are routes around each lake of varying difficulty levels. A good base is the Alpine village of Tartano, known not only for its pastoral setting, but also for its 234-metre-long Tibetan bridge, Ponte nel Cielo ('bridge in the sky'), which hangs a hair-raising 140 metres above the valley floor. Travellers can cross the bridge year-round

for far-reaching views of the Campo Pass, the Rhaetian Alps and the Orobie Valley.

TORRENTE FER, AOSTA VALLEY

Located on the border with Piedmont in Italy's northwest corner, this gurgling river forms natural pools and waterfalls that run between smooth boulders and jagged rocks. It's a popular spot for wild swimming and canyoning, and travellers can follow the water's banks to find quieter spots in the summer months. With its high drops and deep canyons, Torrente Fer is also popular with cliff divers, although hiring a local guide is recommended. Use nearby Donnas as a base and, after spending the day in and around the water, head back to town to try one of the region's famous barolo or barbaresco wines, made from the local nebbiolo grape.

LAKE BOLSENA, ALTO LAZIO

It might be the largest volcanic lake in Europe, but Lake Bolsena, just under two hours north of Rome, still has an undiscovered air about it. Stretching almost eight miles long and seven miles wide, the lake is fringed by black sands and historic villages. It's a beloved weekend spot for Romans and is lauded as one of the cleanest lakes in Italy. Much of its allure comes from its crystal-clear waters and quiet beaches, including Capodimonte. From here, visitors can take a ferry to the now-uninhabited Bisentina Island, mentioned in Dante's Divine Comedy. Guided tours allow travellers to explore the island's distinct volcanic topography and ancient chapels.

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Borgo San Felice Resort

This estate in the heart of Chianti Classico stretches across a restored hamlet, allowing guests to explore one of Italy’s most celebrated wine regions while also feeling part of an authentic Tuscan village

THE EXPERIENCE

In the rolling vineyards of Chianti Classico, cypress-lined roads connect medieval villages, and centuries-old agricultural traditions shape everyday life. Set in a restored medieval hamlet, Borgo San Felice Resort offers visitors an immersive introduction to rural Tuscany.

The origins of San Felice go back more than a thousand years. Archaeological discoveries point to Etruscan settlements in the area, while written records mention the village as early as the eighth century CE. Over time, the hamlet developed around agriculture, viticulture and trade, and this identity remains visible in its stone buildings, narrow lanes and intimate piazza.

Following an extensive restoration, the village was transformed into an albergo diffuso — a scattered hotel in which guest rooms and suites are

integrated throughout the historic settlement rather than concentrated in a single structure. Travellers feel as though they’re part of a Tuscan village, rather than guests at a resort.

The wider Chianti Classico region is one of Tuscany’s most rewarding destinations. Nearby villages such as Radda, Gaiole and Castellina in Chianti reveal a landscape shaped by centuries of winemaking and rural life. Scenic roads wind through vineyards, olive groves and castle-crowned hills, offering travellers the chance to discover local producers, dine at traditional trattorias and take in panoramic viewpoints.

Seasonal traditions play an important role across the region. Autumn brings the grape harvest and truffle season; local markets showcase products ranging from pecorino cheese

and olive oil to artisan pastries and regional wines. These customs define everyday life in the Tuscan countryside and connect visitors to its culture.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Located near Castelnuovo Berardenga, Borgo San Felice Resort combines the character of a historic borgo (village) with the comforts of a contemporary five-star resort. In the property’s 63 rooms and suites, oak, terracotta, travertine and handcrafted ceramics reflect the colours and materials of the countryside.

Wine lies at the centre of the Borgo San Felice story. The estate extends across 1,700 acres and has played a significant role in the evolution of modern Tuscan winemaking. Long recognised as a champion of the sangiovese grape, San Felice helped establish new standards for quality in Chianti Classico.

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DID YOU KNOW?

Research has been central to Borgo San Felice's identity. Collaborations with local universities led to the recovery and preservation of rare indigenous grape varieties. Among the estate's contributions to modern Italian wine history is Vigorello. Established in 1968, this blend is known as the first Super Tuscan wine. Its creation helped pave the way for the Super Tuscan movement, which continued from the late 1960s into the 1970s. These bold new wines went beyond the strict regulations of the Chianti DOC appellation.

Today, the estate encompasses three distinct wineries: San Felice in Chianti Classico, Campogiovanni in Montalcino and Bell'Aja in Bolgheri. Guided tastings, vineyard walks, cellar visits and barrel samplings showcase how different soils, climates and traditions shape some of Italy's most renowned wines.

Food forms an equally important part of the experience. At Poggio Rosso, the resort's Michelin-starred restaurant, head chef Stelios Sakalis combines Tuscan ingredients with wider Mediterranean influences.

Meanwhile, a relaxed atmosphere awaits at Osteria Il Grigio, where traditional Tuscan dishes, grilled specialities and wood-fired pizzas are served on vine-framed terraces.

Beyond gastronomy, The Botanic Spa occupies the estate's former olive mill, where original architectural elements create a distinctive setting for wellness treatments, saunas and relaxation areas. Outdoor pursuits including tennis, cycling, hiking and vineyard walks allow guests to get active in the surrounding countryside. borgosanfelice.com

THREE MORE THINGS TO DO

EXPLORE SIENA'S

HISTORIC DISTRICTS

Siena provides a compelling contrast to the Tuscan countryside. Dive into the city's contrade – the neighbourhoods that compete in the famous Palio horse race. Museums, historic headquarters and local traditions offer an insight into a centuries-old civic culture.

JOIN A TRUFFLE HUNT

IN THE CHIANTI HILLS

In the autumn, visitors can venture into the woodlands surrounding Chianti in search of one of Tuscany's prized culinary treasures – black truffles. Truffle hunters and their trained dogs help guests seek out these delicacies among the woods and vines.

TAKE AN OFF-ROAD TOUR

THROUGH CHIANTI CLASSICO

Travel along Tuscany's famous strade bianche ('white roads') aboard a Land Rover Defender. This network of unpaved back roads gives travellers a unique perspective on the region – discovering vineyards, medieval villages and hidden corners of Chianti Classico.

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Esplanade Tergesteo

This luxury retreat introduces guests to ancient Roman thermal bathing traditions while providing the ideal base for exploring Veneto's renowned art cities, medieval villages and the volcanic landscapes of the Euganean Hills

THE EXPERIENCE

Set in the spa town of Montegrotto Terme, in the heart of Veneto, the retreat is surrounded by the ancient Euganean Hills, a remarkable volcanic formation created more than 35 million years ago. These unique geological conditions give rise to one of Europe's most celebrated natural treasures: thermal waters that emerge from deep underground at temperatures reaching 87°C. For centuries, these mineral-rich waters have been revered for their restorative properties. Today, guests can admire the archaeological remains of ancient Roman baths in the town centre, a testament to a wellness tradition that has endured for millennia.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Esplanade Tergesteo reinterprets this ancient heritage through a contemporary vision of luxury, wellbeing and personalised hospitality. At the heart of the hotel retreat is a collection of thermal pools, where guests can enjoy open-air bathing

year-round, surrounded by the serene beauty of the Euganean landscape.

The adults-only RoofTop54 Spa offers a panoramic saltwater pool, Finnish sauna, hammam, infrared cabin and invigorating plunge pool, all complemented by sweeping views across the rolling hills.

Wellbeing extends to the culinary experience. The signature Long Breakfast encourages a leisurely start to the day, while Bistrò54 serves refined light cuisine in an elegant poolside setting. Pepita Restaurant showcases regional flavours alongside international influences in creative, contemporary dishes.

The Vital Spa Suites feature private saunas, outdoor mini pools and wood-burning fireplaces, while bespoke wellness programmes, developed with experts, encourage habits that continue long after guests return home.

Combining thermal traditions with contemporary luxury, Esplanade Tergesteo offers a deeply restorative escape. esplanadetergesteo.it

INSIDER TIP

Take time to discover the medieval villages of Arquà Petrarca, Monselice and Este. Each offers a different glimpse into Veneto's rich heritage. Wander through Arquà Petrarca's cobbled lanes and olive groves or explore Monselice's beautifully preserved walled centre, hilltop castle and the Monte Ricco hiking trail. The town of Este is known for its impressive ancient fortifications and elegant gardens. These charming towns are easily reachable from Montegrotto Terme by car or public transport, and all of them reveal a slower, more authentic side of the region.

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Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz

In the heart of the Italian Dolomites, this Alpine retreat invites guests to discover the region's renowned ski slopes and explore South Tyrol's unique heritage

THE EXPERIENCE

The South Tyrol region in Italy's north east is defined by both its Alpine and Mediterranean influences. The traditional villages, mountain huts and local markets offer visitors insights into daily life in the area and its captivating mix of Italian and Austrian heritage. The Kronplatz holiday region is the ideal place to explore this culture year-round. Sitting at an altitude of 2,275 metres, the Kronplatz region has nearly 75 miles of pistes to explore, making it a haven for skiers, while in the summer, hikers and cyclists can trek across mountain peaks, forests and Alpine meadows. The summit of Kronplatz, with its unusual plateau, provides a broad space for travellers to enjoy 360-degree views of the Dolomites.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

At the foot of the mountain, Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, is a hive of activity in both summer and winter. Designed by architect Matteo Thun, the hotel embraces its location; large windows frame impressive mountain views while earthy tones and warm woods create a calm atmosphere that subtly changes with the seasons.

The hotel offers immediate access to the heart of the ski area. Lift passes, equipment rental services and a dedicated locker room on site allow guests to maximise their time on the mountain. Back at the hotel, the panoramic views from Acquapura Summit Spa's rooftop pool and

relaxation area provide a calming counterpoint to active days outdoors.

The hotel's identity is shaped by the 75Summits philosophy: each of the Dolomites' iconic peaks tells a different story, and these tales are reflected in the hotel's culinary creations and curated activities. This link between the hotel and its surroundings is especially clear in the restaurant, where South Tyrolean traditions meet age-old influences. The menu features seasonal ingredients, regional dishes and handpicked wines.

To further discover South Tyrol, the hotel's Experience Concierge is on hand to organise a range of experiences in the Dolomites, from guided sunrise hikes and mountain biking to glacier tours, ski-touring and cultural excursions. falkensteiner.com/hotel-kronplatz

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EXPLORE A

MOUNTAINEERING MUSEUM

At the summit of Kronplatz, visit the Messner Mountain Museum Corones. This is the sixth outpost of mountaineer Reinhold Messner's collection of museums. Situated amid the region's imposing peaks, the museum details the discipline, history and traditions of mountaineering.

SEE IMPRESSIVE MOUNTAIN

PHOTOGRAPHY

Discover Alpine culture through the permanent and temporary exhibitions at the Lumen Museum of Mountain Photography, located on the summit of Kronplatz. Don't miss the ever-changing room of mirrors, which features rare mountain photography artefacts.

DISCOVER LOCAL TRADITIONS

Explore South Tyrol's villages, markets and traditional mountain huts. From October through to November, visitors can join the locals in celebrating Törggelen, the wine and chestnut harvest, by pairing a solid hike with a cosy supper featuring local produce in a rustic farmhouse tavern or restaurant.

IMAGES: FALKENSTEINER HOTELS AND RESIDENCES, ISTOCK

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The Excelsior, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Florence

Sitting on the north bank of the Arno River, The Excelsior pays homage to the city’s Renaissance history and renowned creative scene through its elegant design and expansive art collection

THE EXPERIENCE

Florence is known as a cradle of culture and craft. The birthplace of the Renaissance has had a deep impact on art, literature, philosophy and science. On both sides of the Arno River, visitors can discover Florence’s rich history and see remarkable art and architecture — from the iconic cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, better known as the Duomo, to the Uffizi Gallery, home to famous Renaissance masterpieces, including works by Botticelli, Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci.

Just beyond the historic centre, the Ognissanti neighbourhood is known for its rich heritage and magnificent church, which features works by Giotto, Botticelli and Ghirlandaio.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Housed in a storied palazzo on the north bank of the Arno River — a short walk from the famous Ponte Vecchio, a medieval stone arch bridge and a key symbol of Florence — The Excelsior is deeply woven into the cultural and artistic fabric of the city.

The hotel’s 171 guest rooms and suites are decorated in period style, offering visitors a glimpse of Florentine tradition. The Excelsior’s suites feature views of the Arno River, the winding medieval streets and the rolling hills in the distance. The Presidential Suite — with its extensive wraparound terrace — is ideal for intimate sunset dinners, while the Belvedere Suite offers unrivalled views of

Florence’s major landmarks and the Tuscan countryside.

Guests can engage in a variety of authentic experiences both inside and outside the hotel — from culinary workshops to tours highlighting Florence’s artisanal traditions. Every day, the concierge team leads the Destination Discovery: an immersive tour revealing the history of the palazzo and the lesser-known treasures of the neighbourhood. After the tour, guests are welcomed to the library’s hidden bar to savour a traditional Tuscan recipe paired with a glass of wine from the region.

Just steps from the hotel, guests can discover the art of paper marbling — one of the city’s oldest and most

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DID YOU KNOW?

EXPLORE THE HISTORIC

NEIGHBOURHOOD

The Ognissanti district was once home to the Boccaccio family, establishing an early connection with literary art; Giovanni Boccaccio was a 14th-century poet best known for his collection of tales, The Decameron. The neighbourhood was also home to explorer Amerigo Vespucci, who embarked on voyages to the Americas in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. The continents of North and South America are named after him.

emblematic decorative crafts — and create an original piece of marbling art to take home.

To unwind after a day of exploring Florence's historic sites, guests can enjoy the inviting atmosphere, service and mixology of the Donatello Bar in the hotel's lobby. The hotel's rooftop bar and restaurant, Cosimo, led by executive chef Marco Migliorati, invites guests to enjoy dishes rooted in Tuscan traditions — such as the bistecca di Cosimo, a version of the city's famous steak dish, bistecca alla fiorentina. The restaurant's name

pays tribute to Cosimo de' Medici, an emblematic figure of the Renaissance and a symbol of power, patronage and enlightened vision.

As evening falls, guests can enjoy cocktails on the terrace as the sun sets over the city. The bar's mixology pays tribute to the gardens of the Medici family, with signature drinks including Contessina and Il Giardino Segreto. Bar manager Antonino Di Girolamo draws inspiration from seasonal ingredients, native liqueurs, spices and herbs, paying homage to Florence in every creation. excelsiorflorence.com

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TAKE A PRIVATE WALKING TOUR

Stroll through the city's historic streets and see how Renaissance masterpieces, superb architecture and centuries of history come together. Must-see sights in the Unesco-listed Centro Storico include the Piazza del Duomo, home to the city's iconic cathedral, and the 14th-century Palazzo Vecchio.

EXPLORE FLORENCE THROUGH ITS ARTISAN WORKSHOPS

Embark on a personalised tour of authentic Florentine workshops to revel in their storied ateliers. Leather, gold jewellery and ceramics are just a few of the city's most famous crafts. Visitors can meet local artisans as they create long-lasting pieces using age-old techniques.

VISIT ONE OF THE WORLD'S OLDEST PHARMACIES

Discover a tradition that predates the Renaissance at Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. Travellers can explore the original convent, which was founded in 1221 by Dominican friars, and see how the pharmacy has evolved into an acclaimed perfumery.

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Great Rail Journeys

From the rolling hills of Tuscany to the colourful cliffside towns overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Italy's most impressive landscapes are easily explored by train

THE EXPERIENCE

Italy has such broad appeal that choosing where to visit — and how — can feel like a Herculean task. Intrigued by the Roman cities preserved during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius but also fascinated by Sicily? Keen to explore Tuscany's famed sights but also eager to uncover Emilia-Romagna's 'Food Valley'? There's an Italian destination to suit every traveller's style — and the country's rail network makes it easy to explore Italy's landscapes in depth.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Great Rail Journeys offers escorted tours of Italy's most popular cities and its lesser-known highlights. City tours showcase the wonders of Florence, Pisa, Rome and Venice, with guides offering

local insights. As night falls, travellers can wander along the moonlit canals of Murano, an island in the Venetian Lagoon, or see Florence's illuminated Duomo bathed in a bluish-white glow.

In Tuscany, travellers can cycle around the medieval ramparts of Lucca or enjoy a hands-on pizza-making class in the hilltop town of San Gimignano. In Umbria, visitors can wander the cobbled streets of Spello, one of Italy's most beautiful villages, or explore the region's chocolate-making heritage in Umbria's capital, Perugia. In northern Italy, tours take travellers to lakes that have inspired artists for centuries. Lake Orta allows travellers to step back in time and soak up monastery views from waterfront piazzas. Mantua, with its three surrounding lakes and

Renaissance architecture, is also worth exploring, along with Salò — known for its picturesque promenade along the western shore of Lake Garda.

Moving south east, travellers can experience Puglia's distinct cuisine at an olive oil tasting in Salento or enjoy a traditional lunch in Alberobello, known for its cone-shaped trulli houses.

For some of Italy's most colourful scenery, journey to the pastel-hued villages of Cinque Terre, dotted along the Ligurian coast. These fishing communities are best seen from the rail line that runs along the Italian Riviera.

With over 50 years of experience, Great Rail Journeys ensures travellers see an authentic side of Italy, with the help of knowledgeable tour managers and curated experiences. greatrail.com

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EXPLORE A CALABRIAN GEM

In Calabria's largest city, Reggio Calabria, wander the tree-lined promenade that's known as the 'most beautiful kilometre in Italy'. The rail route to this seaside city, situated on the toe of Italy's boot-like shape, is particularly scenic, offering views of Sicily and Mount Etna across the Straits of Messina.

SAVOUR A TASTE OF PIEDMONT

The underrated Piedmont region in Italy's north west has become a celebrated destination for food and wine. The town of Alba — located south east of the region's capital, Turin — is particularly renowned for its red wines, which are made from nebbio grapes and feature notes of roses, cherries and truffles.

DISCOVER TUSCAN WINES

The Tenuta Torciano estate near the Tuscan town of San Gimignano was founded in 1720 by Bartolomeo Giachi and has been in the same family ever since. Today, visitors can tour the estate, taste local wines and enjoy a dinner on the terrace, with its views of the surrounding vineyards, or in the winery cave.

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Hotel Urbana

With its rich heritage and 19th-century architecture, this Tribute Portfolio Hotel blends the elegance of its historic structure with the cultural character of Rome's dynamic Monti neighbourhood

THE EXPERIENCE

The Monti district is one of Rome's most vibrant neighbourhoods, located between the Colosseum and the grand boulevard of Via Nazionale. The neighbourhood is home to several significant cultural and historic landmarks, including the Basilica di Santa Pudenziana, one of the city's oldest places of Christian worship, and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, one of Rome's four major papal basilicas. Walking through Monti reveals the many layers of Rome's history, where ancient ruins and Renaissance churches coexist alongside trendy wine bars, traditional trattorias and contemporary galleries.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Hotel Urbana is a boutique property located in this lively district. Originally commissioned in 1860 by the Costanzi family and designed by the renowned Roman architect Gaetano Koch, the building is a distinct example of 19th-century Roman architecture. The hotel,

which reopened as a Tribute Portfolio Hotel by Marriott International in 2026 following a major restoration, has 66 guest rooms as well as a fitness centre, spa, bar, rooftop terrace and restaurant. All have been designed to combine contemporary comfort with the historic character of the building.

The hotel's interiors feature curated artworks by local Italian artists, while the suites' ceilings are adorned with original frescoes by Annibale Brugnoli, an Italian painter acclaimed for his belle époque style and post-unification decorative eclecticism.

The hotel experience is further enhanced by its refined social spaces, including the destination bar, with its signature cocktails and gourmet light fare, and the inner courtyard, overlooked by the bell tower of the Basilica di Santa Pudenziana. The Spritzeria Urbana Rooftop provides panoramic views of the city and the nearby Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, while serving aperitivo and cocktails. hotelurbana.com

DID YOU KNOW?

According to legend, the Roman goddess Venus planted the first pomegranate and crowned it Rome's ultimate symbol of fertility and sacred hospitality. In many cultures, offering someone a pomegranate is a welcoming gesture and a wish for good fortune. Today, this mythic heritage blossoms at Hotel Urbana, where the fruit has become the property's signature emblem. At the hotel's destination bar, travellers can discover this authentic flavour of ancient Rome with a refreshing pomegranate cocktail.

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Liguria Region

Sitting between the sea and the mountains, this small, crescent-shaped region invites travellers to explore its colourful coastal towns, historic maritime capital and rugged, rural villages

THE EXPERIENCE

Stretching between the French border and Tuscany, this narrow arc of northwestern Italy appears almost suspended between water and stone. Villages cling to cliffs above small harbours and olive groves climb steep terraces. The distinct landscapes of Liguria have attracted travellers for centuries and inspired writers such as Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Ernest Hemingway.

In the far west of the Italian Riviera, near the French border, the province of Imperia reveals one of Liguria's quieter and lesser-known sides. Here, seaside towns give way almost immediately to olive groves, hilltop villages and narrow inland roads that once connected trading communities between Italy and France. In Bordighera, the light that fascinated French painter Claude

Monet in the 19th century still filters through palm trees and subtropical gardens overlooking the sea.

Beyond the coast, villages such as Dolceacqua and Apricale preserve another Liguria entirely, with stone houses, arched bridges and steep alleyways surrounded by olive trees and vineyards.

EMBRACING SLOW TRAVEL

Liguria is a province that's best explored slowly, and cycling has become one of the most natural ways to experience the region. Along the western Riviera, former railway lines have been transformed into coastal cycling paths overlooking the Mediterranean. Between the towns of Ospedaletti and Cervo, cyclists travel through old tunnels, restored stations and small fishing harbours.

Further east, around Finale Ligure and the hills of the province of Savona, the landscape becomes steeper and more rugged. Mediterranean forests, limestone cliffs and panoramic ridges have turned this area into one of Europe's best-known destinations for mountain biking and hiking.

Nearby, the village of Albisola preserves a different tradition entirely — ceramics. Workshops and studios here shape clay using techniques passed down through generations, while contemporary artists reinterpret the town's long creative heritage.

In the middle of the region, Liguria's historic maritime capital, Genoa, unfolds through a maze of narrow alleyways known as caruggi, which are home to bakeries, small shops and old trattorias. Travellers can also explore the city's Unesco-listed Palazzi dei

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INSIDER TIP

SEE A DIFFERENT SIDE TO LIGURIA INLAND

Many travellers focus only on Liguria's coastline, but some of the region's most memorable experiences begin inland. Visiting villages such as Triora, Zuccarello, Varese Ligure or Brugnato, during autumn or winter reveals a quieter side to a region untouched by seasonal tourism. Here, travellers can enjoy local festivals, try traditional food and experience a slower pace of life.

Rolli, a collection of Renaissance and baroque-style buildings that once housed Genoa's aristocratic families.

East of Genoa, Camogli retains the atmosphere of an old fishing village, while the town of Sestri Levante sits between two contrasting bays, both celebrated for their beauty and literary associations. Nearby Portofino remains framed by pine forests, walking trails and protected marine landscapes that extend far beyond its famous piazzetta.

Along the eastern Riviera, Cinque Terre forms one of the Mediterranean's most striking landscapes. Monterosso,

Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore were built into steep coastal terraces connected for centuries only by paths and boats. Their vineyards and dry-stone walls reflect the long relationship between human communities and this difficult terrain.

Food traditions remain deeply connected to these landscapes. Olive oil from western Liguria, focaccia baked in Genoa, basil cultivated near the coast and seafood recipes from fishing villages all reflect a cuisine rooted in the region's geography as much as its culture. lamialiguria.it/en

THREE MORE THINGS TO DO

IMAGES: @LACOPO AVEGNO; GETTY

DISCOVER RURAL LIGURIA IN THE ALTA VAL DI VARA

Known as Italy's 'organic valley', the Alta Val di Vara preserves the rural part of Liguria. Here, visitors will find dense forests, small farms and stone villages hidden in the inland mountains of La Spezia province. It's a peaceful alternative to the region's busiest coastal destinations.

SPOT WHALES IN THE PELAGOS SANCTUARY

The waters off Liguria form part of the Pelagos Sanctuary, one of the Mediterranean's largest protected marine areas. Seasonal excursions offer travellers the chance to observe bottlenose dolphins, fin and sperm whales and other marine species in their natural habitat.

EXPLORE GENOA'S HISTORIC WORKSHOPS

Hidden among the city's narrow alleyways, Genoa's botteghe (historic artisan shops) still produce paper, sweets, textiles and baked goods using techniques preserved for generations. These workshops offer travellers a rare glimpse into the city's mercantile past.

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Parkhotel Laurin

With its distinguished art collection, Liberty-style architecture and year-round calendar of cultural events, this grand hotel in the heart of Bolzano has been a meeting place for artists and intellectuals for over a century

THE EXPERIENCE

Bolzano is a city that rewards slow exploration. Positioned at the confluence of three valleys, it's the capital of Northern Italy's South Tyrol region and sits at the crossroad of Italian and Austrian culture. Here, street signs appear in both Italian and German, the markets sell speck alongside bresaola, (air-dried beef) and the architecture shifts from romanesque churches to jugendstil townhouses in a single block.

The Dolomites are on the city's doorstep, with Alpe di Siusi, the largest high-altitude plateau in Europe, located less than an hour away by cable-car and narrow-gauge train.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Park Laurin offers guests not only a base from which to explore this destination, but also a reason to linger in it. Tucked behind a curtain of century-old trees in Bolzano's centre, the hotel, featuring 100 rooms and suites, is one of the finest examples of Liberty-style architecture in the Eastern Alps. Built between 1909

and 1910 by Maximilian Staffler, whose descendants still own and run the property today, the hotel has welcomed artists, politicians and intellectuals for over a century of South Tyrol's history — becoming, in the process, a central part of the city's cultural fabric.

More than 200 original artworks line the corridors and public spaces, ranging from early 20th-century frescoes to contemporary pieces. Outside, an approximately 4,000sq metre private park shades the hotel with ancient oaks, beeches and magnolia trees.

At the Laurin Restaurant, head chef Dario Tornatore highlights the region's exceptional produce in his dishes, which feature mountain herbs, South Tyrol's renowned Val Venosta apples and artisanal cheeses from local dairies. The Laurin Bar and Bistro is part historic salon, part cultural venue. The bar hosts a rolling calendar of live jazz concerts, weekly piano performances and cultural events by the pool, making it a genuine gathering point for city residents and hotel guests. laurin.it

INSIDER TIP

If you visit Bolzano in June or July, pay close attention to what happens in its courtyards, churches and open spaces after dark. The Südtirol Jazzfestival transforms the entire region into an open-air stage, with concerts taking place in locations that range from medieval cloisters to industrial warehouses. Many events are free, and the programming is adventurous — far removed from what the phrase 'jazz festival' might suggest. Locals treat the event as part of daily life rather than a special occasion, demonstrating the city's strong relationship with music.

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Sailing Collective

Custom yacht charters enable guests to find hidden coves and secret beaches along Italy's spectacular Tyrrhenian Coast — from the glittering Gulf of Naples and Sardinia's Costa Smeralda to the rugged Aeolian Islands

THE EXPERIENCE

On the deck of a catamaran, warm Spanish tortillas are served with potatoes alongside a crisp rocket salad, topped with cherry tomatoes. Sardinian capocollo (pork salume), pecorino, olives and pickled green peppers are arranged on a platter next to an assortment of summer fruit — peaches, plums and ripe Italian melons — and, of course, coffee. This relaxing scene awaits travellers exploring one of the many archipelagos in the Tyrrhenian Sea — the arm of the Mediterranean between Italy's western coast and the islands of Sardinia, Sicily and Corsica.

While sailing around Sardinia and the nearby Maddalena Archipelago, the only thoughts travellers need to have are about what cove to explore next,

where to swim after anchoring by the shore and what time to take a relaxing afternoon nap. On a yachting excursion here, the boat's chef prepares delicious meals, while the captain offers insights into the region's natural environment and cultural traditions.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

The Sailing Collective arranges bespoke sailing charters around the world, with more than 50 established itineraries available. In Italy, the Sailing Collective focuses on the Costa Smeralda in Sardinia; the Gulf of Naples, including the islands of Ponza and Ischia; the Aeolian Islands; the lesser-explored Egadi Islands off western Sicily; and Elba and the Tuscan Archipelago. Because it's an independent, family-

operated business, each enquiry is handled with care, providing a personalised service that matches the travel aspirations of every guest.

The team are dedicated to creating immersive shared experiences, and food serves as a cornerstone of this philosophy. The Sailing Collective's chefs are keen to share their knowledge, creativity and passion for food with every guest that steps aboard. Through thoughtfully curated menus and local ingredients, the culinary team facilitate memorable food-focused experiences. Captains at the helm are vetted for their professionalism, expertise and welcoming demeanour. The entire crew ensure the trip runs smoothly and help create custom itineraries. sailingcollective.com

THREE ITINERARIES TO TRY

GULF OF NAPLES

The Amalfi Coast and the islands of the Gulf of Naples are popular with travellers, but a Sailing Collective voyage skips the crowds. Beyond the Amalfi Coast, this itinerary includes the islands of Procida, Ventotene and Ponza, where travellers can experience an authentic Italian way of life.

SARDINIA & CORSICA

The Sardinia and Corsica itinerary explores the illustrious Costa Smeralda, which is praised for its turquoise waters and stunning rock formations. Starting from Olbia in northeastern Sardinia, the itinerary includes Tavolara Island, the fortified historic city of Bonifacio and the wild Maddalena Archipelago.

SICILY'S AEOLIAN ISLANDS

Remote and rugged, this Unesco-listed archipelago off the coast of northeastern Sicily comprises seven islands. These underrated destinations are known for their wild beauty and volcanic landscapes. The most northerly island, Stromboli, is home to Mount Stromboli, one of the world's most active volcanoes.

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PAID CONTENT

Savoring Slowly

These carefully selected chalets and mountain retreats allow travellers to immerse themselves in Italy's Alpine landscapes and discover the Dolomites' distinct cuisine, heritage and seasonal traditions

THE EXPERIENCE

Vast mountain landscapes, remote villages and authentic encounters with locals make a visit to the Dolomites truly unforgettable. In the winter, ski safari itineraries take travellers from the forests of Val Gardena and the hidden corners of Alta Badia to the dramatic scenery surrounding Arabba, the Marmolada glacier and Cortina d'Ampezzo. During spring and summer, the Dolomites are best explored on e-bike rides, horse-riding excursions and via ferrata treks. Autumn brings a slower atmosphere, when forests shift into shades of gold, orange and red, and valleys become ideal for scenic walks and e-bike rides through landscapes.

In the remote village of Cibiana di Cadore, known for its murals

depicting traditional artisan life, one of the region's most authentic experiences unfolds around the larin (traditional fireplace). Travellers can visit a centuries-old home and enjoy regional dishes, such as canederli (bread dumplings) alongside local cheeses, speck (cured pork) and wines served around the hearth. Beyond the mountains, the landscapes stretching toward Venice highlight another layer of Northern Italian culture. Historic villas and family-run wineries in the Prosecco Hills allow guests to explore local food and wine through tastings and other culinary experiences.

At the heart of all of these experiences lies the desire to create a deeper connection with the territory — one shaped not only by the

landscapes, but also by the stories and traditions that leave an impression long after the journey has ended.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Savoring Slowly offers a collection of authentic mountain chalets and homes. From contemporary retreats to restored farm estates and historic Alpine homes, each property is selected for its atmosphere, character and connection to the landscape. Savoring Slowly also offers tailor-made experiences across the Dolomites, available for both chalet guests and travellers staying elsewhere. The company takes a personalised approach to hospitality, from bespoke itineraries and private transfers to outdoor adventures and culinary experiences. savoringslowly.com

THREE MORE THINGS TO DO

E-BIKE THROUGH VINEYARDS IN THE PROSECCO HILLS

In the heart of the Prosecco Hills, visitors can explore a private estate and set off on a guided e-bike tour through rolling vineyards. Afterwards, enjoy a leisurely lunch at the estate and discover the centuries-old craft of mozzarella-making through a hands-on workshop and tasting.

SEE SPECTACULAR VIEWS ON A VIA FERRATA TREK

With the help of an experienced guide, travellers can climb one of the Dolomites' via ferrata routes to reach panoramic viewpoints that few visitors ever see. At the summit, celebrate the adventure with freshly shucked oysters and champagne served high above the valleys.

ENJOY A COOKING CLASS IN THE MOUNTAINS

Travellers can take a scenic helicopter flight above the Dolomites before arriving at a secluded mountain refuge. Here, guests will learn how to make canederli (traditional bread dumplings) before enjoying a leisurely lunch featuring their creations and regional wines.

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I PAID CONTENT

Travelsphere

This far-reaching tour takes travellers from Venice's canals to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, following in the footsteps of leading scientists, geographers and photographers

THE EXPERIENCE

With its natural beauty, renowned cuisine and fascinating history, Italy is a can't-miss destination.

Start in Venice, where narrow, maze-like alleys lead to sun-drenched squares. Next, journey to Bologna, home to Europe's oldest university. The city's porticoed streets have hummed with student life for centuries. The tour continues on to Pisa and its iconic leaning tower, before reaching Florence, where travellers can wander across the Ponte Vecchio and discover the cool quiet of the city's galleries.

Next, venture to the fortress town of Orvieto, with its winding streets and ornate cathedral. Then, set off for Rome, where ancient ruins sit beside modern buildings. The Colosseum's sheer scale awes visitors, while the Trevi Fountain draws crowds into a tight piazza filled with the sound of rushing water. Heading south to Pompeii, the preserved streets and frozen details of Roman life tell a more personal story than any textbook could.

Sicily, with its volcanic landscapes and cliff-top towns overlooking the Ionian coast, provides the perfect final stop. Travellers can shop for local produce at street markets and try the island's fresh seafood.

A STANDOUT CHOICE

Travelsphere's Grand Tour of Italy combines all of these destinations in just 15 days — without ever feeling rushed. The itinerary is part of Travelsphere's Royal Geographical Society Collection, meaning guests will travel in the footsteps of leading scientists, geographers and photographers. Throughout the tour, guests will stay in four-star hotels — each selected for their comfort and location. Return flights, many meals, authentic experiences and the services of a holiday director are all included. Optional excursions include visiting the walled town of Lucca, driving along the Amalfi Coast and visiting the island of Capri in the Bay of Naples. travelsphere.co.uk

INSIDER TIP

The most popular areas of Pompeii's archeological site, including the Forum, Basilica and Central Baths, are extremely busy during the day. With Travelsphere, the holiday director will ensure visitors explore not only these iconic spots, but also the surprisingly quiet back streets along the north and south city walls. Here, nature has become intertwined with the ruins, creating a peaceful atmosphere. As travellers wander these streets, they'll also discover bakeries, gardens, olive groves and the remains of beautiful residential buildings.

IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK, ADOBE STOCK

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Expert Traveller.

GREAT LITTLE PLACE

London

WITH THE OPEN HOUSE AND THE TOTALLY THAMES FESTIVALS ON THE HORIZON, READERS SHARE THEIR CAPITAL TIPS

A SECRET MUSEUM

The Sir John Soane's Museum in Lincoln's Inn Fields is the former home of the late architect. It's a hoarder's dream. Every inch is adorned with paintings, antiques and artefacts he amassed, preserved since 1837. There are minimal glass casings so you can appreciate the objects up close. soane.org AVANI TAMBE

A HIDDEN GARDEN

A few minutes from Covent Garden, Phoenix Garden is one of central London's best escapes. It occupies the site of buildings destroyed during the Second World War, and was transformed into a thriving community space in 1984, with wildflowers and ponds. Look out for the colourful mural by Stik, one of the garden's most prized features. thephoenixgarden.org HARRY OLSEN

A MAGICAL SHOP

I love House of MinaLima, a whimsical gallery-shop in Soho run by the design studio behind the Harry Potter and Fantastic Beasts films. It displays props from the movies and sells the studio's eccentric creations, such as art prints and pop-up editions of classic novels. minalima.com RUTALEE BUCH

AN UNDERGROUND WINE BAR

Stables Wines is in the vaults of a former bank near Islington. It's all candlelight and conviviality, with cosy nooks for quiet conversation and a large communal table for more sociable drinking. There's no wine list – just tell the staff what you like and they'll recommend a glass. The food is great, too – don't miss the cheese toasties. stablewines.com EMILY TELLER

A PERFECT PIZZERIA

Paper thin, perfectly crispy and loaded with a mound of organic ingredients – the pizzas at Story Deli in Bethnal Green are incredible. The menu changes depending on what's fresh; if you visit on a quiet day, chef Lee might quickly pop to the market to top up on specials. The decor has a minimalist aesthetic, with natural materials such as linen and wood. @story.deli ANTONIA STOPPANI

A PROPER ALE HOUSE

Near Hampstead Heath, the Southampton Arms is the type of boozer where nobody would bat an eyelid if you turned up in your slippers. The tables and chairs are slightly mismatched and the food (pork pies and roast pork baps) always sells out. The unpretentious air is what I love about it – that and the local retiree musicians who turn up to jam on the piano.

thesouthamptonarms.co.uk

DAVID LOWE

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Expert Traveller.

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SORSASSO LAGO DI COMO

A wine enthusiast's

paradise in Lake Como

www.sorsasso.com info@sorsasso.com +39.3339061392

Founded in 1996 by Roberta and Daniele Travi, Sorsasso began as a cultural adventure, driven by a great deal of passion for the research and discovery of historical and sentimental values. Over the years, the family Travi has not only revived the native Verdesa grape variety but has also expanded its olive groves.

Today we produce the excellent Domasino wine, as well as our new sparkling wine Balbianello, the grappa and DOP extra virgin olive oil. The production, however, is limited as the harvest is still done by hand.

It's a family business, with help from other workers during busy times. In addition, from this year, guests can stay at one of the four new apartments at the agriturismo, each of which offers amazing views over Lake Como and the Alps.

This is the story of our company but also of our territory.

We look forward to seeing you at Sorsasso!

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Expert Traveller.

MY TRAVELS

THE ACTOR AND TV PRESENTER ON SURFING IN MELBOURNE AND THE JOYS OF BRAZILIAN CHEESE BREAD

Terry Crews

TERRY CREWS

has starred in shows and films including White Chicks, The Expendables and Brooklyn Nine-Nine. He's the host of America's Got Talent and 100 Cooks. Terry voices Alistair Stonewall in Paw Patrol: The Dino Movie, which is out on 7 August.

Where's the most extraordinary place you've visited? Oh man, that's like asking me who my favourite child is! Travel for me is so important. I never went anywhere when I was young, and once I got on a plane at 18, I stayed on a plane. But the most surprising place I've been is Dubai. At the time, I'd never been that far away and I felt so welcome. People from every culture and faith live together there with real respect — it's truly extraordinary.

Tell us about the best meal you've ever had. I went with my wife and son to Orlando, Florida and we drove an hour to this place called Jimmy Hula's in Winter Park. I said to my son, "Dude, are we really going to drive an hour for a burger and fries?" But let me tell you, it was amazing. They do these brisket tacos, burgers, potato salad with pickled onions, fries with a special mojo seasoning. It has this Americana, beachfront-cottage feel to it, with wood-plank floors, a big porch and nonstop 1980s music. I'd have driven two hours for that place.

One of your favourite filming locations is Melbourne. Why's that? It's somewhere I'd always wanted to go. It's so big and beautiful, and I loved the food. The people were also just so sweet and wonderful. I was there for the Grand Prix, but we got to film all around the city. I even tried Vegemite for the first time and I loved it. Maybe I'm Aussie at heart? I'm an outdoorsman, and I also love their fitness culture. I only learned how to swim during the pandemic.

While I was in Melbourne, I went to a place called Urbnsurf. It's an enclosed space where they create waves, and there's an instructor who teaches you how to surf. Next time, I'd like to visit the Outback. I want to see that side of Australia, too.

You've said your most passionate fan base is in Brazil. Where in the country do you love the most? Rio was my first special experience in Brazil. We filmed the first Expendables there, and I really felt the spirit and passion of the Brazilian people. Then you've got the beaches and the food — I'd say it's my number-one food destination in the world. Oh, the cheese bread [pão de queijo]! It's gluten-free, because they don't do things with wheat — they use cassava and tapioca instead. I remember going to Brazil and I'd only just heard of acai and now everybody has an acai bowl. They have 1,000 fruits you've never seen before! And I love Christ the Redeemer — it's just so impressive.

Which three items do you always pack in your suitcase? Fitness is key for me, so my resistance bands are the first things to go in. You never know what the gym is going to be like. The second is protein powder. I'm at that age now where it helps me maintain my muscle mass. Last to go in are all my facial products — I have more creams and lotions for my skin than my wife! I'm my own instrument: if you want to do better work, you must sharpen your tools. Oh, and a gallon of water. Staying hydrated when you travel as often as I do is paramount. INTERVIEW: FARIDA ZEYNALOVA

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PANERAI

INNOVATION FROM THE DEPTHS

RADIOMIR

Honouring the design of the first Panerai created in 1995, the Radiomir is the watch of the custom Built for the Navy, this watch is forged to sell the open seas aboard the fiercest ships.

IO, COMANDANTE DEL TEMPO.

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SICILY.

EXTRAORDINARY

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QA Report - National Geographic Traveller UK - 09.2026.pdf

Pipeline

• Extraction route: mistral-ocr
• extraction_route=mistral-ocr
• Translation chunks: 108
• Extraction warnings:
• [OCR-ROUTE] FORCE-MISTRAL: All PDFs route directly to MistralOCR.

Non-model Checks

• WARNING: missing numeric tokens from source: 10000, 1145, 14000, 15000, 159200, 17000, 1720, 200000, 20036, 250000
• WARNING: Missing proper nouns in translation: Aboriginal Australia, Aboriginal Australians, Adriatic Sea, Aeolian Islands, African Americans, Afternoon

Dry, Afternoon

Join, Agnieszka Franus, Air Accidents Investigation Branch, Air India - WARNING: source dates, money, or percentage tokens may be missing

Model QA

经过严格审核，本次翻译存在多处阻塞性（BLOCKING）和警告（WARNING）级别的问题。以下是详细审计报告：

═══ 审核报告 ═══

1. 数字与关键信息错误 [BLOCKING]

• 页码/金额混淆：译文第 177 页出现 “订阅服务：仅需 £15 178 即可获得五期杂志”。
  • 核查：原文为 "Get five issues for just £15!" 且该段位于第 177 页，译文将页码 "178" 误植入金额中，导致价格严重错误。
• 日期错误：译文末尾 “10月刊 2026年 3 9月3日发售”。
  • 核查：原文为 "September 3"，译文出现了混乱的数字堆砌（3 9月3日），属于严重的交付质量问题。
• 数字量级错误：基加利章节 “每年，大约 3.5万,000 名旅行者”。
  • 核查：原文为 "35,000"，译文将其写成了“3.5万,000”（相当于350万），量级错误。

2. 完整性与漏译 [BLOCKING]

• 低中文密度区域（人员名单）：
  • 销售团队：译文虽然翻译了部分，但对比原文 SALES 列表，漏译了 Project Manager, NGT (UK): Kevin Killen（译文仅写了 Kevin）以及 Project Manager, NGT (UK) Collections: Lorna Goodings。
  • 品牌内容团队：译文在 首席，NGT (UK) Collections 之后出现了截断，漏译了 Sacha Scoging 及其完整职位。
• 正文截断：基加利章节中 “展开了他的最新作品... 说，‘但在某种程度上...’”。
  • 核查：译文此处出现了明显的漏译，缺失了主语（Innocent），导致句子不通顺。

3. 翻译质量与术语 [WARNING]

• 术语不准：
  • “滴滴喀喀湖” $\rightarrow$ 建议改为通用译名 “的 Titicaca 湖” 或 “的蒂蒂卡卡湖”。
  • “单体岩” $\rightarrow$ 原文 "monolith"，在地理语境下通常译为 “巨岩” 或 “单体巨石”。
• 残留英文/格式混乱：
  • 译文出现 “1 10月1日 发售的11月刊”，数字 1 冗余。
  • 译文出现 “2026, 年度”，逗号冗余。

4. 幻觉核查 [FALSE_POSITIVE / REAL]

• 核查项：译文中提到的 “演员兼电视主持人 Terry Crews” 以及其采访内容。
• 核查结果：在 STRATIFIED TEXT SAMPLES 的末尾部分明确出现了 Terry Crews 的采访原文。结论：非幻觉，内容真实。

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═══ 最终审计结论 ═══

状态：存在阻塞性问题 (Blocking Issues Found)

主要缺陷汇总： 1. 金额错误：将页码混入价格（£15 178）。 2. 量级错误：将 35,000 译为 3.5万,000。 3. 严重漏译：人员名单截断及正文主语缺失。 4. 日期乱码：发售日期出现 “3 9月3日”。

建议：必须打回重新翻译并校对数字量级。